Bambu Studio Tutorial Line Width
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2024
- Hello everyone. Let's talk about a setting that can make your parts heavier, stronger and potentially print faster. Yes, we are delving into Line Width. The setting we have passed over numerous times but today we are testing it out.
#3dprinting #bambulab #diy #design #tutorial #tipsandtricks - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Once again your video and information in it is awesome. It is a blessing to have people like you that takes their time to help others make their prints faster and easier. Thank you so much Ashley we really appreciate it. I wonder when are you going to make a video on how to make string art, as a lot of people are struggling with it? Just a suggestion and thank you so much once again.
Very intriguing video Ashley! Plenty of food for thought. Opens up a multitude of possibilities. Thanks for sharing it with us.
You're so welcome! Once I started I saw a bunch of options open up.
Smaller line width for detail mixed with larger line width for strength for instance.
🤘BITCHIN🤘This video was well worth the wait. You are right that this is a not often talked about option. Your visual examples sell the settings. Thankyou for the time you spend on us!
Everyone's comments and questions are making for great topics to cover. Thank you very much especially for understanding the delay in getting this out.
Thanks! Exactly the information I’ve been looking for.
Excellent. Thank you for watching and commenting.
That last vase 👍 and 0.3 was also a surprising one for tops with text. Thanks for some tips 🙏
There were a few surprises while making this, speed, strength, quality.
Thank you very much for watching and commenting.
Interesting video, thanks so much for sharing w us!
Thank you very much. I havent seen many others covering it and one of my subscribers asked about it. There will be more videos to come.
Great video, I have been curious about smaller line width for text, your video is very helpfull with that.
I want to try text on the buld plate side with small line width to see if I can print smaller letters that will still look decent.
I had printed some custom coasters a while ago and found it difficult to fit the text I wanted because I needed large letters.
Thank you. There are a ton of variables to look at.
I had great success with the .3mm for the letters and you can set the line width for default for the rest of the model. As long as there is a good foundation of infill you can mix and match settings.
So I have not tried .23-.29mm so there is a possibility to go smaller than .3mm and still have quality.
man i love your content, keep going
I appreciate it! I'll keep putting them out if people are interested.
Great stuff. Thanks Ashley
Thank you very much for watching and commenting. 😁
This was very informative, thank you. I would imagine that if one were going to use this they should test it when changing filament brands?
Printing "test parts" when switching filaments is a good idea and best practice.
I think the printer is making me complacent (lazy)since I didnt tweak any settings but used the default print profiles for all of the models.
Thank you very much for watching and commenting.
For as much printing as I've done with four different printers and having a background as a Machinist 3d modeler I didn't fully understand what you presented up until now how this feature really works. This was so helpful in understanding line width applications and exactly what the printer is doing. I look forward to this application to my non Bambu Lab printers and Bambu's. (S1 3 Pro/SonicPad-KobraMax-X1C-P1S) Thanks much. Looking forward to future videos.
Question (before I experiment): I use epoxy resin to ensure complete functionality of vases. Can extra line width improve sealing?
Thanks again
Thank you for your comment and question.
YMMV with filament types and settings but the vase mode 1mm was a huge success. did perform a water leak test when I saw your question.
The default had small (beading) leaks at the bottom layer, where the bottom meets the first 1 wall pass. It's possible to adjust the line width at certain heights.
The 1mm test held water without issue , I only did a few hours test with it but I consider it a success. PLA may not hold up long term though so an epoxy should work great. I hope this information helps.
@@ashleys3dprintshop very helpful thanks
Great video! The thing thats missing is how do nozzle sizes affect the same line widths ect? Since i got my printer print at all types of line widths and layer heights but dont understand what changes would happen on print quality by changing nozzle. Eg 0.6 line width on 0.4 nozzle vs 0.6 nozzle. Or 0.08 layer height on 0.4nozzle vs 0.2
I am going to copy a comment I posted earlier.
"So I planned a much longer video initially that would have delved into the different nozzles but it would have been a slog to watch. So I tried to keep the content condensed if possible. Especially using default nozzles.(.4mm)
but if you are curious there is a 2.5x multiplier increase or rough .5x decrease
.2mm nozzle
line width .12mm - .5mm
.4mm nozzle (minimum sweet spot was .3 line width)
line width .22mm - 1mm
.6mm
line width .32mm - 1.5mm
.8mm nozzle
line width .41mm - 2mm
So even though the .4 nozzle theoretically got down to the .2mm nozzle default layer height its quality isn't the same."
Not accounting for filament types it seemed like 75% of the default min.
I did not go too deep in *layer heights and line width* because it would be a very very long video with many variables.
thanks for this video! very well explained. these info open up a lot of possibilities without even changing the nozzle.
now I wonder if a 0.4 nozzle, printing at 0.2mm is the same as using a 0.2 nozzle with default settings, or if there is any substantial difference
Glad it was helpful!
So I planned a much longer video initially that would have delved into the different nozzles but it would have been a slog to watch. So I tried to keep the content condensed if possible. Especially using default nozzles.(.4mm)
but if you are curious there is a 2.5x multiplier increase or rough .5x decrease
.2mm nozzle
line width .12mm - .5mm
.4mm nozzle (sweet spot was .3 line width)
line width .22mm - 1mm
.6mm
line width .32mm - 1.5mm
.8mm nozzle
line width .41mm - 2mm
So even though the .4 nozzle theoretically got down to the .2mm nozzle layer height its quality isn't the same.
@@ashleys3dprintshop I understand why you had to cut the video down, but that's honestly very Interesting, thank you for the additional info!
@@ansiaaa Thank you for understanding. Perhaps I can revisit this if enough folks are interested.
No matter what i do i get a top layer that is right next to the infill (so it kind of doesnt look right, but i cant sand it down either else i hit infill holes and thus worse)
My question is: how in the world do i add some extra top layers that actually print say 4 or 5 solid (not infill) flat layers at the top of my model. I learnt that wall loops do this for walls, but what about the top shell? I tried increasing numbers in what seemed the obvious choices but it didnt behave how i thought it would.
I haven't officially gone over it but you can use a modifier.
There are 2 main types of modifiers. Height range or objects. For simplicity I recommend making a part modifier.
at 4:50 if you look to the left I used a height range modifier to make adjustments just in that area.
The parts there all have a semi solid infill at the bottom but the top half is different. You can change, walls, infill, infill density, layer height, speed, line width and a bunch of other options in just the area that is selected by the modifier.
Here is a quick video about what I mean.
th-cam.com/video/aXW4v-8iO3Q/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much for such a comprehensive and clear response. Absolute legend. (Same person as OP btw just on my music account)
This channel is an instant sub for me 💪
If you are increasing the line width, you are pushing more filament through the nozzle. So this might increase the pressure on the nozzle. How do you compensate for that? Is it good for long term use? Please explain.
Hello, thank you for the question. I can give a partial answer based on how I printed but this may be better suited for someone with a higher pay grade than me. (bambu lab engineer) But during these tests I printed stock with an exception of the silk vases I slowed down a bit to get a glossy sheen. (50mm/s) all temps were stock 220C.
So when I printed those models, with varying characteristics, they were printed at the same time. So we have printing, retraction moves all throughout the print jobs. Presumably any pressure issues would have cropped up then. They did look roughly like the sliced models. The single prints came out fine as well.
The vase is a single 1mm extrusion, through a .4mm nozzle, stream for over 1.5 hours and no print quality issues from what I found.
There could be some things I didn't take into account though.
1. I used the AMS with these prints and they run through the filament buffer before going to the extruder. The buffer may "smooth out" tension alongside the AMS. There is 10 sensors in the filament path, so the position, speed, and tension of the filament are monitored and controlled
2. There were no extruder skipping or under extrusions
3. There was no stringing/over extrusions so pressure issues never cropped up.
4. I did not tweak settings and this was sunlu filament, but I did run an auto filament calibration for the X1C.
5. I have not run 24hr prints or anything with the higher line width yet. All stock speeds except for the vase.
Obviously printing lower or higher width extrusions, outside of the default, will produce desirable or less desirable results. (.3mm was surprisingly good) If I revisit this topic I may dip into other nozzles and use the back spool holder.
As far as long term use that is the million dollar question. 😁 I venture to guess default settings are the best for longevity but I only have 4300hr over 19 months printed and less than 100hrs using larger line width. I am still on my original hardened extruder, but I have swapped out nozzles before but none due to failure.
I hope that answer helps.
I’m having an issue can you help me with. I’m trying to print a 2.0inch round by 2.0inch tall diameter in PLA, but my part is coming out 1.990 and the other side is 2.005. How can i get this dimensions closer and round. I tried the XY compensation but no luck
So… for the equivalent strength, can increased width print faster?
I am leaning that why when looking at the prints.
The *infill test*was certainly stronger as we went higher in line width and faster print too as it didnt have as many small "stops/starts/retractions/extrusions" while laying down similar amounts of filament.
The *walls test* was similar in strength with an completely unscientific, hand crush test.
Now these were mostly default settings so changing infill % or # of walls can affect the speed/strength.
I want to buy a .6mm nozzle from Bambu but I don't know how I am going to slice it? The Bambu software doesn't show me a .6mm nozzle option.
Thank you for the question. There are some minor steps to add the nozzle to your printer in Bambu studio.
1. Open Bambu studio and go to the "Prepare" tab
2. Right below "Prepare" you will see "Printer" and to the right of that is a *Gear Icon*. Press the gear.
3. Find your printer and check off the .6mm nozzle and *confirm*
You can add all of the nozzles too so you don't have to do it later. .2, .6 and .8mm
From there you can select the other nozzle when slicing. Below the Printer icon. There is a down angle icon.
If you have any other questions I an frequently in the comments.
thank you@@ashleys3dprintshop
If I print out any container, it always leaks. Is there a way to print a vase, or jar, and not have it leak. Using a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon printer. Thank you
Yes and yes . So vase/containers are tricky, as you well know. The 1mm vase in this example does hold water. The weakest point seems to be the bottom layer transition to the rest of the higher layers though. That print was a silk PLA and i dont know how long it will hold up so perhaps a resin coat would seal it better.
I would have to revisit vase prints, speeds, filament and line width for a better answer.
@@ashleys3dprintshop ok thank you. I even made the bottom thicker, but still seems to leak. Maybe thickness of print, just cannot figure it out.
...and who doesn't like good bondage 🤣
I'm curious how much this could improve a horizontally printed lithophane if you weren't able to change the nozzle size.
Hmm, I wasn't even thinking about lithophanes but now you have me curious. 🧐
Theoretically this should work fine, smaller lines, mixed with infill and layer height...
like the info. (˵ ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°˵)
Glad you liked it! So much to cover. Lol Thank you.
I don’t understand how it is possible to have a line width that is less than the nozzle diameter 🤷🏼♂️
It certainly seems counter to the nozzle diameter, but I think it's a combination of the gears being tightly controlled and precise movement and retractions. It's not perfect though,. The 0.22 line width has a bunch of errors when you look at the infill section. But the.3 on a 0.4 nozzle was fine