Deleting Honda Auto Choke TO MAKE IT RELIABLE! HONDA MOWER STARTS ON FIRST PULL VIA EL MANUAL
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ย. 2024
- Honda Mowers Suck...You gotta work with what you got!
Sometimes older is better...lets THROW IT BACK!
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Pick up some 6m threaded rod a tad longer than the Honda bolts. Get nuts to fit the rod. Loosen ONE side only pull out the bolt, replace it with the threaded rod, then do the other side. Easy to remove as many pieces as you want and also when replacing them. On a side note; I replaced a Kohler powered Toro's auto choke mechanism with a hand choke too. WAY cheaper than buying all the components of the auto choke system.
Kohler has the worst design! WHY IS THIER VACCUM ON A SMALL ENGINE? I like the threaded rod idea...since Honda's are ceasing to exist I don't see myself struggling anytime soon ;) Next time I'm at the hardware store I will grab some.
@@pattayperformance Well, Honda may have quit making small engines in America, however, there are thousands of them out there, so I think we'll be dealing with them for some time to come. Anything with a Honda engine sells very well in my area (Chicagoland).
Hillman sells 100mm 6mm threaded rod that fits perfectly. Every TruValue has them
A simple cable /wire hanger that's rubber coated would do what you're trying to do w the washers .
I keep those rubber cushion clips in stock for mowers and our fleet so it was just easier to do that. Plus they are cheap LOL
I had a Honda HRX217HYA with the auto choke my grandfather bought for me brand new, it never really started easy nor did it ever really run right. I even replaced the carb with a genuine Honda carb, it ran the exact same and if I let it sit for 2 weeks without using it, the idle circuit would get plugged up with IDK what. If it sat for a month, the thing took like 30 pulls to start. Pretty sad when your 45 year old push mower with 1000+ hours on it fires up first pull with the same gas out of the same can when the new mower won't cooperate.
I hate honda...so I'm glad they are getting out the push mower game! Long Live The Quantum! Unfortunately it just seems to be the common theme in general that newer isn't always better! Crazy how thery made such a simple machine so complicated!
@@pattayperformance I had a better time getting abused Tecumseh's to run right than Honda's!
How is it now?
@@mgomez5606 I sold that mower to my brother years ago, he used it for a few years then hired a landscaper. It hasn't been used for a while so I don't know.
@@MattsRageFitGarage TY.
The auto choke system is All choked up on this engine 😮
Does that make it a choke artist?
@@pattayperformance I believe so lol 🤣🤣
I never knew these came with autochoke. I have got a 1997🤪 Honda with man choke that was laid up in a shed for I dont know how long.I managed to get it going and TBF , its been a great workhorse. Apart from oil changes and air filter , I have never changed the plug to my shame , but it still starts and works great.The two levers on the handle are for drive and blade disconnect . Shut off with throttle lever. One of the bolts to the Muffler/Exhaust is no longer there so its really going exhaust...less. I am trying to cobble it together somehow. P.S I run the carb dry after each cut.
That's awesome! Honda blade stops are a little complex and priocery compared to Toro's! Don't feel bad...I only charge spark plugs when they fail! Keep that oil fresh as well as topped off and CUT grass nothing else...it will last!
@@pattayperformance thanks, I do agree with you on removal/installing the carb and air filter. It is silly, you would nearly need three hands 😊.
Yep I had a older Honda with manual choke . I ended up replacing carb. And it took a long time to get it right. Including all the gaskets which I had to replace as well. Comments on that vid were that it was painful to watch. And I didn’t cut much out
Can't make everyone happy. Keep doing you! It's painful to watch bc Honda's are painful to work on!
@@pattayperformance exactly
The wax cartridge appears to be removed from the block, the square shape opening above the intake port. That is what opens the choke when it warms up.
@@sentryfe74 it’s there trust me. I replaced it with an OEM Honda one and problem still persisted. I forgot what the cost was but it was reasonable like maybe $8 give or take. Then I resorted to good old reliable manual cable as shown in the video.
just replace the thermowax choke actuator. it's about $10 online and just slides out and in. As per the bolts being tough to manipulate, you can install all-thread studs, then just put a nut on the end like the newer GCV170 engines have. there are videos on how to do both of these things.
@@Synchrimedia as mentioned in the video ordered one from the dealer with no luck.
the thermowax actuator is probably cheaper than the whole choke cable assembly with the lever, and you forgot to reconnect the crankcase breather tube when you attached the air box. you're going to get oil leaking all over your deck.
@@pattayperformance couldn't get one online?
@@Synchrimedia I shop local within reason. You never what you have till it’s gone! 🫡
I have a GCV 190 and your choke rework was exactly what I needed to see done. Thanx!
To explain this design , Imagine a choke adjuster that allows a movement to happen by heat only , engineering was in this design , it is at choke setting as the motor has set for awhile awaiting you upon the next time you start your mower , it plunges out a thin wire to push the choke open as the motor heats up , sits in a hole above the carb on the assembly mount. Cartridge little guy , google Honda mower parts , has a list of mower models with exploded views of the carb , you’ll find it numbered and it’s part number to order .
@@davidnorth3411
I’m well aware of how the Thermo Choke works. I mentioned in the video I spent $8-9 on the thermo choke and it didn’t remedy the problem. I went to good old manual version.
Thanks for the view and comment!
What I found with mine was the spring on the choke flap was all gunked up and was not pushing the flap closed again when it cooled down
Great idea Jason... Great job!!
I'm never going to replace a thermo wax ever again. Manual conversions only! Tried and True!
I agree with everything you said. Mark Nye thefixitguy here and I've been doing small engine repair for almost 40 years and the HONDA GCV motors are the worse with the Themostat Wax Choke Assembly...but almost all the GCVs are just a bad idea for Honda and I think that's one reason they stopped making them.
I had thought about a manual choke on these motors so I just might do that on my next repair. Honda makes studs for the GX motors ( which are one of the best motors out there and have no idea why they do t use them on all mowers and equipment). The studs mount into the block and then you install the gaskets and carburetor etc.. that's a much better design.
All the equipment that is made now fails in just a few years. Briggs and Stratton back in the 70s 80s built probably the best motor.
The I/C 5HP. That engine was indestructible..
Now Briggs and Stratton makes a plastic carburetor for their engines. Poor design but they are so much easier to work on than Hondas. I also have to complain about Hondas EU2000 and EU2200 inverters. What a nightmare they are to work on and replace the recoil rope or work on the carburetor
I know exactly what you mean!!!
I've got two Honda GCV 160's over twelve y/o. One with a manual choke and one with a hybrid choke. Mine have been bulletproof thus far. Never had a problem with em whatsoever. Now I've worked on other people's Honda's but all of there's had been abused and hardly any maintenance was done to them. But still, they were like 5+ y/o.
I struggled too, at the end, I placed the mower on its side and let gravity do most of the work. Still a pain to align everything properly.
@@vicb.5034 great job on getting it done! They way they have it set up is counter productive and why they never changed it is mind blowing 🤣
@@pattayperformance my one in the UK has an auto choke but with a cable attached to a spring control arm at the end, so it can be adjusted... maybe this was an update??
I have two of these machines, terrible piston rings. One of them was smoking and I decided to repair it with new piston rings in detail, I think I did everything correctly, but it has never started. Idkn!
The reason your auto choke ain't working is because you are missing the metal arm that runs from the auto choke to the carb. That tall black rod on carb choke is what the arm from auto choke would engage when you pull it to the choke position. The auto choke usually fails because of weak spring tension or debris clogging the gears of the choke mechanism. Its a simple fix, remove 2- 10mm bolts and clean the gears and it should have DRY Lube applied to it not grease, which attracts dust and dirt
It's an aftermarket carb on the thing. I used a 1.5mm bolt with nuts on either side of the actuator - worked like a charm
As Lawrence Carrol wrote about: 2pcs Fully Threaded Rod M6 x 100mm 1mm Pitch 304 Stainless Steel Right Hand. EBay. They save a lot of aggravation.
Excellent solution to the auto choke issue, by the way!
-- Old Matt
TY! I just ordered off Amazon as its cheaper. I got 4 cuz I'm prone to lose things LOL
amzn.to/44go8Et
Maybe assemble all the carburettor bits and gaskets onto the plastic air filter cover and then offer the whole lot up to the bolt holes. I have seen someone else do this successfully.
It fits me no matter what…I ended up buying studs off amazon and it helped pit a lot…
Take one bolt out…hold the carb and install stud. Take other bolt out and install stud…remove carb and reverse process when installing it
I just replaced the carb and wax choke and I'm giving serious thought to changing those bolts out for studs. Honda really turned a minor job into an annoying fiddly chore with that setup.
@@daviddavid5880 if you were to permanently convert it’s easy. I just use studs to help with the repair process. Life changing.
@@pattayperformance Awesome. Thanks. I just don't comprehend the Honda thought process there. What a pain in the butt.
I just replace my auto choke and thermowax, I wish I saw your fantastic video before I purchase the original Honda parts.
I think you should lengthen your cable kill shut off, looks like it's in a bind.
Thanks for your video..
I replaced the therowax thing as well with no luck...which lead me to this. Luckily the thermowax is a cheap "try". From now on I will just install the cables. I used an OEM honda part so the length is as good as its gonna get.
Take a larger fender washer for your outside washer and bend a lip facing down on one side of it and place it on top of cable with the bold to keep cable from moving away from bolt
Thank you!
Did you remove the Therma Wax device from the engine block that engage the choke automatically, if not it's going to still engage/disengage when the engine operates.
I left it bc it wasn’t working in the first place.
Play safe and just remove it
Hello, my fellow small engine mechanics. I need some advice on an engine fix. I am working on a simple 2 stroke echo weed whacker.
Put a new carb on at the beginning of the year and it quit working 1 month after.
Pulled it apart to investigate and found the new fuel filter somehow was not attached to the fuel line.
That makes sense why it quit working i think, order another carb, install it, and she runs great as i expected her to, however it only lasts a half a day.
She starts giving me signs of not getting gas. She starts up with the choke and idles a bit rough with it off, then once the throttle is hit she immediately dies. Even when warm she needs the choke to start.
Im pretty confident its a gas problem, but also confident its not the brand new carb, or brand new fuel lines/filter. Any ideas what else could be cause my problem?
Btw she revs good when run on carb cleaner through the intake.
Thank you in advanced.
Its all fuel related! I find aftermarket carb are hit and miss! Even after installing a new carb some of them need tweeking in the sense that when you apply throttle it bogs down.
IN ONE CASE ONLY! I had an issue where the fuel filter wouldn't stay in the fuel..I put a nut at the end to weight it down.
I would do new carb, new fuel lines and grommet. Fresh two cycle and start from there. Also do a vaccuum check on your engine to make sure of no leaks. Doesn't hurt to pull spark arresrot as well as piull muffler and check for build up in the chamber
@@pattayperformance your awesome dude. Will give this a check!
@@pattayperformance you nailed it bro. I messed around with the carburetor adjustment screws and now she's running like she should! Thank you Patty!
That $14 part is the remedy
Jason, how many clamps come in package? If I was still working zip could get them at work. Look like clamps for tubing.
No clamps come in the package…just the cable
@@pattayperformance I was referring to the clamps Jason. How many are in the package?
@@mgomez5606 if I understand what you are trying to say.
When you order the cable from Honda/Parts Place You Choose it comes with no clamps or hardware.
@pattayperformance when you ordered the clamps, how many came in package you ordered. You said it was quite a few.
@@mgomez5606 ohhh the cushion clips!
I had to watch my own video 🤣🤣🤣. I got them in a 20 pack
amzn.to/3KG0Crl
yeah man this is what i needed. that wax choke for me will not release the choke.
Great choke mod. Well done! 👍
re-engineering Is Fun !!
I got a new wax part and new carb. Over an hour and no gas
@@lovestihlquality1369
If it’s got no gas put some in it 🤣
Confirm fuel flow to the carb…
Use a screw driver or something to close the choke and give it a pull if it starts and run you know you have the same issue as shown in the video
I don’t work on these because of the choke I thought it was just me
Is there no reason to remove the wax thing or remove the auto choke all together? It doesn't interfere with the manual choke?
I would like to know this as well.
I have the sane mower & i cuss it every time because its hard to start. Id rather use an electric mower
@@Ollie_4348 🤣
Before you go through with this mod, Make sure your carb is clean and confirm fuel flow.
Jason, what did you do about the engine stop cable.
Great question and sorry I wasn’t clear in the video. You still need to keep the bail cable as you need to stop/kill spark on the motor to shut it down.
So you changed the carb as well?
This will work with the factory carb. On this particular motor/mower.
I thought I was the only one who found the lineup with the two bolts frustrating as hell.
Hillman sells a 100mm threaded rod that fits right in
the best video i watched i'm going out to my my shop THX Ed Loretto Ontario Canada
Very nice modification.💯
Thing drove me nuts to be honest!
Put some hair on those holes brotha 🤣🤣🤣🤣
This is what goes bad on the Honda auto choke Honda 16620-Z8D-305 but el manual works better hahahaha
Inreplaced the thermo wax and the problem still persisted…chalked up the $12 as a lesson learned
Looks like the wrong carb for that motor
It's an aftermarket. What's missing is the vertical post off the choke actuator. I used a 2 mm bolt - drilling out the black plastic
Thompson Jason Davis Shirley Lopez Amy
hahahahaha, ur so mad @ honda u forgot the existence of Straps. lol. i can feel u bro. i realy am. cheers
Brilliant!!!!
Jones Brian Williams Kevin Davis Donna
Honda's very dumb designed model !