What’s the benefit of compression fitting instead of soldiering a actual fitting on the end of the copper to screw into the shut off valve. Just curious cause I never trusted those compression fittings
There is no benefit to the compression over soldering. I know another plumber that says the same thing you do. Just solder on a male adaptor and your good to go. The only thing I can think of is the look. Some people care about the look I guess. I like your thinking! Thanks for checking out the video!
that's the way we've done it for years but lately we've been getting crappy male adapters that won't thread into the stops. everything is made in China now.... anyway compression seems to be much easier for sure
i've never had problems with compression fittings been using them for years. They're way faster to install and less expensive if you consider the cost of the extra male fitting and soldering. The thing I'm particular about is I only install 1/4 turn angle stops and never install the multiturn ones. The multiturn angle stops have crappy rubber washers and often fail when you actually need to turn off the water
JUST HAVE TO TELL YOU…I PURCHASED THESE EXACT TOOLS AFTER WATCHING THIS VIDEO A FEW MONTHS AGO. TODAY I USED THEM AND BOY WAS I GLAD I HAD THEM . THEY MADE THE JOB A SNAP. THANK YOU FOR THE GREAT VIDEO.
It was in another video of yours but I wanted to thank you for being one of the first people to tell us the WRENCH Size needed for typical kitchen faucet Supply Lines. So MANY videos stating 3/8 on one end and 1/2 on the other. Yes but the wrench sizes required are NOT those dimensions but actually a 9/16 for the Supply End and a 15/16 for the the Faucet end. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this information and how clear it is. I watched so very many and none told or showed me what I wanted/needed to know. Now I am hopeful this tiny, 60ish, lady can do it myself.
And of all the videos you're the only one that has shown how to install this on copper without sweating the joint and it really helped me because I have an old-style house. Thanks
Thank you very much! Had quite a stressful birthday weekend replacing my kitchen countertops and ran into a busted supply line. Great description and walk through of all the steps. 🎉
I just ordered one of those ring pullers from the English Tool Company. I had bought a Husky Tool from Home Depot but the tool would not screw onto the nut under my kitchen sink because the center piece in the tool kept the tool from reaching the nut threads. I tried using the outside puller bars but they would either slip off the nut or when I used channel locks to keep them from slipping, the bar ends actually bent! When I get the new English Tool, I'll finish the job of replacing two double shut off valves. I might try to get some of that Mega lock as well since I don't want the valves to leak. I put a new compression valve under the sink in the master bath but it had a slow leak. I finally went with a Shark Bite push on valve and it works great.
That is good to know about the sharkbites. You will love the English tool co puller. Best there is I have dealt with the same issue you are having. Sometimes is is just easy to cut the nut off if you have space. Thank you for your comments!
Man!!! so did both bathrooms and first one was a pain in the you know what because the space and also, the compression sleeve was a b to get out took me like 30 mins. But got it done. Was so proud of myself. Lol. then did the second one. Then found out it wasn’t tight enough so had to take off again and tighten it. Re do it. but second one was easier. But hard to get the compression sleeve off. i bought the old school one because the new one. Can’t find it anywhere. And its so expensive its like $50. Thank you for this vid, sir. You have definitely saved me some $$ from hiring a professional plumber. Lol😂
Don’t forget to clean up your brass. Use a piece of sandpaper and sand the outside of it so you got a nice clean connection. You don’t want any leaks there.
Very helpful video. I had no problem replacing my valve by following this. Your sleeve puller looks nice, but the cheap tool I bought from Home Depot did the trick too.
Sometimes guys put these on so tight, the ferrel won't seat properly when you install the new valve. When I can, I'l usually trim the end of the copper pipe so the new ferrel can be applied to an area of the pipe that isn't compressed. Your advice on the Gate Valve in the basement was "Plumbing Gold". You really have to make love to these, especially when they have not been touched for years. Open and close a bit at a time to free it up and back it off a tad when you power the water back up so it has some play the next time.
I have a lot of plumber friends that trim the pipe and leave the nut on as well. If I know that the puller won’t take it off then I will do the same. Glad you liked the video. Thank you for tour comments.
I would have sanded the copper with ultra fine sandpaper or wet-or-dry which may have eliminated the need to use messy pipe dope and would have made it look like new. I would have definitely replaced that old corroded unsightly escutcheon as well....if you're gonna be all in there to this extent, why not make it look nice instead of reusing the old crap (shiny new valve with pipe dope all over it in front of an ugly corroded escutcheon??)? Good job using one of the newer 1/4 turn valves instead of the unreliable oval handled mult-iturn valves. The english tool website looks kinda sketch.
I been riding the fence for a year on the ridgid stop wrench. ifbit was American made I would have already pulled the trigger....butni get by with a pair of channellocks and a crescent. now days I have gotten into the habit of cleaning a customers toilet and floor before I work on anything. makes things alot less gross. thanks for the video
I got to the point were I would talk to the customer before I would come over and ask them to clean the toilet inside and out. Worked most of the time! 😜 I get what your saying about the channel locks and adjustable jaw as well. I’ve had a couple of times where the one stop does not work because the nut is too big. Had to pull out the wrenches anyway.
There's probably a dozen comments saying this but here I go anyway. As long as you put in a new valve, replace the escutcheon plate too. Great video otherwise.
That sleeve puller looks like some cool tool. Problem is, I would use this tool very rarely, so I'll take my chances either getting the compression ring off with channel locks, or cutting the pipe. BTW, I would make it a practice of cleaning/sanding down the pipe before putting on a new valve. Great video Sir, I learned a lot.
At the top end on the connection to the flushometer my unit comes with a reducer piece. Is that necessary to install? I installed the connection without it. Any issues since there is no leakage. Seems the toilet tank fills up kinda quickly to the proper flush level.
I didn't have that special tool to remove the old nut so I ended up reusing the old nut but i tried using the new compression ring and it wouldn't allow me to thread on the new valve so I didn't use the new compression ring. Could it be there is already an old compression ring in there? Anyway, I threaded on the new valve with some tape on the threads and it did leak a little at first so I tightened the old nut a little more while holding the new valve in place. It seems to be working fine. Do I need to redo it and buy the special tool to remove the old nut or should I be OK? This is the first time I've done this and had to get the toilet up and running ASAP. Thanks for your video. It was a huge help
You can reuse the old nut must of the time with no issue as long the copper is not too long for the new valve. If you got it to stop leaking. great job. I would leave it and check on it a couple of times.
I just finished replacing two, 30 year old shut off valves in a small powder room vanity . Absolutely corroded; the water in our area is so hard that when you stir it, it rattles. I saw this video last year and consequently I then bought one of those English sleeve puller, and I had no use for it until today. Without that puller it would have been a nightmare project. It is so cramped trying to work in that tiny space, Houdini would have had a panic attack. Getting wrenches on the nuts was maddening. Looking back the “easiest” part was pulling out the old compression rings; those things acted like they were brazed onto the copper pipe. I’m telling you right now, that if you are planning on replacing your valve,DO NOT start unless you have one the English sleeve puller - Murphy Law for plumbing: If it can go wrong, it will go wrong. Best $40 or so that I have ever spent!
Ferrule pullers are a gamble .They can destroy the end of older copper tube sometimes .I always use a sharp short metal sawzall blade or tiny tim saw and carefully cut the ferrule until a groove is worn into it and a small flathead screwdriver will finish peeling it off .If the pipe is long enough, I'll cut it back a little to create new tubing for the new ferrule .Works great! Good vid!
That the the way I learned how to do it with the mini hack. Your right though when the ferrule puller jacks the pipe up from someone over tightening then got to pull out the mini hack anyway. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. The water in our area is pretty hard, so the old valves can be stuck in the open position. This is particularly the case for the hot water line. What is the best practice for this situation when trying to swap out the old gates valves? Don't want to doing damage to the pipes and get into a costly repair. :-)
That copper pipe looks a bit shredded on the end. It also looks like there is an olive still on the pipe in front of the escutcheon plate. Why didn't you deburr the copper pipe? Why didn't you use emory cloth to clean the pipe before putting on the new shutoff valve? I think there is going to be some turbulence in that line because the end of the copper is not a clean end and chewed up.
Looks like you are turning the sleeve puller counter clockwise, correct or no? I wish you had showed replacing the escutheon plate. Does it easily pull off?
The escutcheon plate just pulls right off and replacement just slides in place. I think the compression sleeve puller is turning clockwise to tighten and remove it.
@@ThatFixItGuy thanks, I got those rigid compression wrenches you use and I don't think I could have done it without them. I did find a local sleeve puller by Superior Tools that worked great to remove the ring.
Such a nice video, very practical. Thanks a lot. I have the same old fashion shut off valve. And I have a short question: Which kind and size tee should I buy to add a bidet sprayer? My plan is to attach the tee to the pipe, then attach the 3/8 pipe for the toilet, another outlet to the sprayer.
I am trying to remove the "stop valve" and can not separate the valve from the compression nut. I think they used Megaloc on the threads....I used two crescent wrenches but nothing! I tried tapping...nothing. Perhaps it is corrosion? I guess I need to have someone with big muscles?
They could have used some form of pipe dope on them. Try taking a hair dryer to it for a little while then try removing it. The closer you and get the wrench’s together when trying to loosen the easier it will come apart.
Can't you use the bottom part of the one stop valve to help remove the old valve, instead of using the Crescent wrench on the body? I was thinking of getting one of those tools, so I haven't tried that myself. On the ferrule rings, I haven't had good luck with the pullers. I've had the rings dig into the pipe and the pipe end mushrooming. I bought a Dickie Dyer "olive" splitter from the UK and that has been much easier to use. Makes a satisfying snap when it cuts through the ring. It is hard to find such a tool in the US. Though, I imagine that one of the PEX ring cutters may work as well.
You can use the bottom, but some nuts are not standard and just a little off. I will have to look into the dickie dyer cracker. Sounds cool. I’ve totally had the mushrooming happen and have to pull out the torch. Some people love to over tighten compression joints. Thanks for the info’.
@@ThatFixItGuy I've seen a few different types of "olive splitters", but only one available in the US (Saf-T-Kut). That one was never in stock, so I sent for one from across the pond. I do have to wonder if a PEX ring cutter would do the trick, with some adjustment for the thinner walled pipe.
Give the nut a small turn to loosen, which ideally will be confirmed with an increased leak. Then retighten the nut just a bit further than its original position. The leak should slow to a stop at the right tightness. (If the ferrule was improperly placed to begin with, it won’t behave as expected and the nut may actually bottom out when tightening without the leak ever stopping; time to replace it with a new ferrule and possibly a fresh end of pipe if you have enough excess to make a cut.)
You should have explained if you are going to replace the escutcheon ring there are tabs on the inside of the escutcheon ring that has to be bent in to secure them to the copper tubing.on flange
I despise compression fittings, but I use them anyway because it allows you to easily position the valve straight up and down (you can do that with a threaded fitting too, but may have to re-apply thread tape a few times to get it straight). The worst is when you use a puller to remove the ring, then discover that you have flared the copper pipe and can't get the new ring on. Also, the fitting will leak if it's too tight or too loose. How do you know which it is? I sometimes under-tighten at first, then gradually tighten until the drip stops. I also ignore the instructions and smear the thinnest layer (almost invisible) of pipe thread compound on the compression ring. I've never had a leak after doing that.
Yeah if they are over tightened it sucks. All your comments about compression are true. They are easy to install. I really do the tightening by feel. I guess the best way to describe it is. I screw on hand tight then probably 3/4-1 full turn. I too like to put pipe dope on the ring. It is the only place that makes sense if your your going to put any at all. I think it will make a good video figuring out the proper turns on compression fittings.
That's why I don't like the ferrule pullers. I use a ferrule ring splitter instead. Much easier and does not damage the pipe. Mine is a Dickie Dyer "olive" splitter that I had shipped in from the UK but Saf-T-Kut makes a similar tool.
I am hoping you can help my solve my dilemma, we replaced the float valve, three times but it kept getting stopped up, Finally decided it was some trash coming from the old soldered on cut off valve. Problem is there isn't enough copper pipe to pull with your tool so we can put on a new valve. Our house was build in the 70's, the pipe was ran thru a hole drilled thru two side by side 2x10's at an angle going upward, then thru plywood, then thru a 2x4 plate for a bathroom wall It then comes out of the wall the pipe must be at a 90 degree angle coming out of the sheetrock, wallpapered bathroom wall.. Do you have any suggestions how I can get this cut off valve replaced in this situatuon? How do I get the old valve off and the copper pipe out of the wall We cut the copper pipe in the basement but it won't pull from the wall. Did they fasten them to something back in the 70's? We have decided to drill the hole bigger beside the copper so we can put in new pex line and new cut off valve, but wanted to ask you, I don't want to go thru the floor as we have just had a new tile floor. Do you have any better solution I am open. When the suggestion was to run it thru the floor I flipped out, and stopped the repair man at that point, He is to come back next week, Hope you can help me. thanks
There is a good chance that the copper 90s in the wall right there and is strapped down some way so it will not move. Is there anyway to go front when back side of the wall so you don’t mess up the wall paper?
@@ThatFixItGuy Don't I wish it could be that easy, Our den is on the other side with paneling, We are going to try and widen the opening in the bathroom and try to loosen enough from fasteners to get it out. Live and learn, leave enough pipe sticking out this time around, if we ever need to replace it again, Thanks so much for your quick reply and advice. I appreciate it,
You can for sure wide the hole a bit. They sell cover plates that will make it look like a normal set up. You can send me a picture or a little video on Facebook if you like. Getting eyes on it is always best. It is that fix it guy on Facebook.
Do you have enough pipe to cut the bad spot off? You may have to remove the escutcheon pipe and then put a different style on later to get some extra length.
I change 2 - 3 of those angel stops per year. Each time a seemingly simple tasks turns into a nightmare when reusing the old compression nut and ferrule fails to produce a water tight seal. This tool has made it a breeze and now I never reuse the old nut and ferrule. In my opinion the tools pays for itself.
Thanks for the tips. I need to replace an ancient toilet valve and didn't know how. Now, hopefully, I do...barring any nasty 1956 surprises. I realize the biggest investment is gonna be the TOOLS!
You can use two adjustable jaw wrenches as well and don’t have to get a one stop wrench. The important thing is to alway use a back up. Thank you for watching. Please reach out if you need anything.
TOOLS!!! I spent soooo many frustrating hours over the years because of lack of tools. Now, I am smart enough to ask for tools for my Birthday and Christmas 😂
Hey great video man. Why is it that every damn time I grab them steel braided hoses from Home Depot to use on a newly replaced/updated faucet my supply hoses always leak a little then it finally stops. Am I over tightening or something??
Oh I get it. I have bought bad ones before. I like the hoses with the white washers on the inside. I know fluid master and Ferguson plumbing supply make these. I have had great luck with them not leaking like that.
I really enjoyed your video. May I ask: is Megalock used in potable pipes too? I had another question. Can a compression fitting be used a second time or is it a one time use? Meaning, can I use all the parts, including the ring to compression the fittings again? Thank you.
Yes megalock can be used on potable water. And you can use a compression fitting over and over again as long as you don’t over tighten to the point of no return.
@@ThatFixItGuy Thank you for your answer. I didn't put anything else on the fitting and now I know that I should've used teflon tape or a compound... now I have to take it off and try again. I wonder how difficult it's going to be to take it off. Hopefully easy.
@@ThatFixItGuy I now need to take it off bc I've been tightening it little by little and the drop build up over night continues. In a 24 hour, it builds a little drop that falls. So not putting anything on it has led me to now take it off and add tape or the compound on it. I'll probably do it Friday or Saturday.
You are the second person that commented on that pipe escutcheon 😂. Makes me want to call my friend and shoot another video. Great attention to detail! Thank you for watching!
@@ThatFixItGuy 😂 thanks for making videos. TH-cam creators have helped me more than I can say. I noticed the corrosion because those are the things around my bathroom that I am fixing right now. Giving everything the trimmed out finished look, and then replacing anything that looks corroded. I’m the only person who will notice, but it will make me feel better 😃😂
What's your opinion on shark bites? I'm no plumber but I dont trust them and refuse to use them. Most people dont know there is a right way to use a crescent wrench.
I’m guilty of using an adjustable jaw wrong from time to time. As for Sharkbite fittings there are times when I have used them. They have been around long enough now that you can trust that they will help you in a pinch. I like them for temporary fixes. That and they are so expensive that is the only way I would use them.
Yes you can do that, but not are valves are the same depth. You may have to cut a little copper off the end of the pipe to allow the compression ring to seal properly. Have a plumber friend that does this all the time instead of changing like me.
I went through exactly you described in the video. I have the english tool. it is the only tool i will use for this kind of jobs. however, i encounter the same problem at my brother's house (only my brother's house not anywhere else). the problem is either the ring contacts over time or the pipe expands over time. I am able to pull the ring out using the english tool without causing any damages to the pipe. Everything looks perfect until I put the new shutoff valve along with the new ring in. guess what ! for whatever reasons, the removing the old ring out somehow thins the pipe. as a result, the new ring is clearly too big for the old pipe. voila ! it leaks. this happens everytime I replace the shutoff valves at my brothers' house not anywhere else. I ended up cutting shortening the pipe to fix this problem (which defeat the purpose of using the English tool). please give some ideas to address this phenomenon. thanks, Linh
Someone way over tightened the angle stop when they installed them. Even if you cut the ring off you may have still had to cut the pipe shorter for the repair.
i went to the hardware store today to purchase the compression sleeve puller. the guy was adamant that i could just reuse the old compression nut and sleeve. so if he's right, i don't need to spend $30 for the tool. is he right?
You can get away with it at times. Sometimes the newer valves don’t allow the same amount of pipe to go inside the body and you have to cut a little pipe off. It also depends on the ferrule condition. You can try it.
You have the Ridgid tool take the 5/8” tool you have in your left hand and insert it into the 3/8” opening to hold the valve ??? You won’t need the Crescent Wrench.
Correct you would not need a crescent wrench. One thing to remember is when you put a new valve on make sure that you have the 3/8 nut on the valve (even if you don’t use it) because it you could damage the new valve when tightening it
That flex line toilet line is also one time use. Those will NEVER seal again. Twice I have had to remove one end of them and twice it would not re-seal and I had to buy replacement lines.
If installed with the proper turned installing the flex line you can get more than one use out of them. Most people way over tighten them and then they do not work when you try to put them back in. I have been in that situation as well! It sucks at 8.00 a pop for sure.
It was on there crazy tight then! If there is enough pipe on the back side to put a new one on I will just cut the old one off. Sometimes it is way easier than dealing with wrestling that bear!!
What’s the benefit of compression fitting instead of soldiering a actual fitting on the end of the copper to screw into the shut off valve. Just curious cause I never trusted those compression fittings
There is no benefit to the compression over soldering. I know another plumber that says the same thing you do. Just solder on a male adaptor and your good to go. The only thing I can think of is the look. Some people care about the look I guess.
I like your thinking! Thanks for checking out the video!
@@ThatFixItGuy thank you for your input brother. Keep up the awesome videos
that's the way we've done it for years but lately we've been getting crappy male adapters that won't thread into the stops. everything is made in China now.... anyway compression seems to be much easier for sure
i've never had problems with compression fittings been using them for years. They're way faster to install and less expensive if you consider the cost of the extra male fitting and soldering. The thing I'm particular about is I only install 1/4 turn angle stops and never install the multiturn ones. The multiturn angle stops have crappy rubber washers and often fail when you actually need to turn off the water
Your welcome.
Just fixed mine myself because of your video! Thanks from this single mom!
JUST HAVE TO TELL YOU…I PURCHASED THESE EXACT TOOLS AFTER WATCHING THIS VIDEO A FEW MONTHS AGO. TODAY I USED THEM AND BOY WAS I GLAD I HAD THEM . THEY MADE THE JOB A SNAP. THANK YOU FOR THE GREAT VIDEO.
So glad this helped. This tool is great for this work. Hope we can help again
It was in another video of yours but I wanted to thank you for being one of the first people to tell us the WRENCH Size needed for typical kitchen faucet Supply Lines. So MANY videos stating 3/8 on one end and 1/2 on the other. Yes but the wrench sizes required are NOT those dimensions but actually a 9/16 for the Supply End and a 15/16 for the the Faucet end. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this information and how clear it is. I watched so very many and none told or showed me what I wanted/needed to know. Now I am hopeful this tiny, 60ish, lady can do it myself.
Awesome! Please let me know if you run into something and need some help. I’m happy to help where I can.
And of all the videos you're the only one that has shown how to install this on copper without sweating the joint and it really helped me because I have an old-style house. Thanks
I’m so glad this helped. Thank you for watching!
Wrench with ratchet box. I appreciate just explaining the names of the tools.. compression something. Thanks for the close ups! Of what you are doing!
Your welcome. Thank you for watching.
Thank you very much! Had quite a stressful birthday weekend replacing my kitchen countertops and ran into a busted supply line. Great description and walk through of all the steps. 🎉
I just ordered one of those ring pullers from the English Tool Company. I had bought a Husky Tool from Home Depot but the tool would not screw onto the nut under my kitchen sink because the center piece in the tool kept the tool from reaching the nut threads. I tried using the outside puller bars but they would either slip off the nut or when I used channel locks to keep them from slipping, the bar ends actually bent! When I get the new English Tool, I'll finish the job of replacing two double shut off valves. I might try to get some of that Mega lock as well since I don't want the valves to leak. I put a new compression valve under the sink in the master bath but it had a slow leak. I finally went with a Shark Bite push on valve and it works great.
That is good to know about the sharkbites. You will love the English tool co puller. Best there is I have dealt with the same issue you are having. Sometimes is is just easy to cut the nut off if you have space. Thank you for your comments!
Thanks!!! Great video. Any time I do any home plumbing, I’m always worried about leaks.. obviously. But you helped break down the best way to do it
Man!!! so did both bathrooms and first one was a pain in the you know what because the space and also, the compression sleeve was a b to get out took me like 30 mins. But got it done. Was so proud of myself. Lol. then did the second one. Then found out it wasn’t tight enough so had to take off again and tighten it. Re do it. but second one was easier. But hard to get the compression sleeve off. i bought the old school one because the new one. Can’t find it anywhere. And its so expensive its like $50. Thank you for this vid, sir. You have definitely saved me some $$ from hiring a professional plumber. Lol😂
Your work is second to none outstanding work may God continue to bless you.
Don’t forget to clean up your brass. Use a piece of sandpaper and sand the outside of it so you got a nice clean connection. You don’t want any leaks there.
Love to see you using the proper tools. See Jane Drill uses a pipe wrench on a Crome valve!!!
Why remove the wall side nut and compression ring? What prevents you from reusing those with the new valve body??
Very helpful video. I had no problem replacing my valve by following this. Your sleeve puller looks nice, but the cheap tool I bought from Home Depot did the trick too.
That is awesome. So glad this was able to help you out.
I reused the brass washer and nut attached to the main pipe. So it dosnt have to be pulled off with that tool
Your video was the only one that I could find that helped us with our compression valve! Thank you!!
So glad to hear this helped you out. I hope we can help again.
Good realistic video. It is effective and you showed some of the struggles in using the tools.
Sometimes guys put these on so tight, the ferrel won't seat properly when you install the new valve. When I can, I'l usually trim the end of the copper pipe so the new ferrel can be applied to an area of the pipe that isn't compressed.
Your advice on the Gate Valve in the basement was "Plumbing Gold". You really have to make love to these, especially when they have not been touched for years. Open and close a bit at a time to free it up and back it off a tad when you power the water back up so it has some play the next time.
I have a lot of plumber friends that trim the pipe and leave the nut on as well. If I know that the puller won’t take it off then I will do the same. Glad you liked the video. Thank you for tour comments.
Excellent video. gave me confidence to replace some shut off valves
Great tool. I'm afraid to remove an old compression ring. I just put on a new shut off valve and hope it doesn't leak.
Thank you Mr. Fix it Guy!!! You made your step by step explanation easy for me to follow!! Kudos man! Blessings!
That you and love your channel name! I hope we can help again.
Just did mine and got the Kobalt One Stop. The tool was amazing@ Great video
I would have sanded the copper with ultra fine sandpaper or wet-or-dry which may have eliminated the need to use messy pipe dope and would have made it look like new. I would have definitely replaced that old corroded unsightly escutcheon as well....if you're gonna be all in there to this extent, why not make it look nice instead of reusing the old crap (shiny new valve with pipe dope all over it in front of an ugly corroded escutcheon??)? Good job using one of the newer 1/4 turn valves instead of the unreliable oval handled mult-iturn valves. The english tool website looks kinda sketch.
Newbie here. Very helpful.
Thanks for the tips Brian! Plumbing made easy!
I’m glad you liked the video. I try to make it easy as I can for everyone.
I been riding the fence for a year on the ridgid stop wrench. ifbit was American made I would have already pulled the trigger....butni get by with a pair of channellocks and a crescent.
now days I have gotten into the habit of cleaning a customers toilet and floor before I work on anything. makes things alot less gross.
thanks for the video
I got to the point were I would talk to the customer before I would come over and ask them to clean the toilet inside and out. Worked most of the time! 😜
I get what your saying about the channel locks and adjustable jaw as well. I’ve had a couple of times where the one stop does not work because the nut is too big. Had to pull out the wrenches anyway.
There's probably a dozen comments saying this but here I go anyway. As long as you put in a new valve, replace the escutcheon plate too. Great video otherwise.
The valve I ordered is a celcon stem. Can you do a video with one of these since it’s now more common please and thank you!
That sleeve puller looks like some cool tool. Problem is, I would use this tool very rarely, so I'll take my chances either getting the compression ring off with channel locks, or cutting the pipe. BTW, I would make it a practice of cleaning/sanding down the pipe before putting on a new valve. Great video Sir, I learned a lot.
I totally get it. I could not justify that puller for one angle stop either.
At the top end on the connection to the flushometer my unit comes with a reducer piece. Is that necessary to install? I installed the connection without it. Any issues since there is no leakage. Seems the toilet tank fills up kinda quickly to the proper flush level.
I didn't have that special tool to remove the old nut so I ended up reusing the old nut but i tried using the new compression ring and it wouldn't allow me to thread on the new valve so I didn't use the new compression ring. Could it be there is already an old compression ring in there? Anyway, I threaded on the new valve with some tape on the threads and it did leak a little at first so I tightened the old nut a little more while holding the new valve in place. It seems to be working fine. Do I need to redo it and buy the special tool to remove the old nut or should I be OK?
This is the first time I've done this and had to get the toilet up and running ASAP. Thanks for your video. It was a huge help
You can reuse the old nut must of the time with no issue as long the copper is not too long for the new valve. If you got it to stop leaking. great job. I would leave it and check on it a couple of times.
@@ThatFixItGuy thanks for the vote of confidence. You put my mind at ease. Will check it again as you suggest.
I just finished replacing two, 30 year old shut off valves in a small powder room vanity . Absolutely corroded; the water in our area is so hard that when you stir it, it rattles. I saw this video last year and consequently I then bought one of those English sleeve puller, and I had no use for it until today. Without that puller it would have been a nightmare project. It is so cramped trying to work in that tiny space, Houdini would have had a panic attack. Getting wrenches on the nuts was maddening. Looking back the “easiest” part was pulling out the old compression rings; those things acted like they were brazed onto the copper pipe. I’m telling you right now, that if you are planning on replacing your valve,DO NOT start unless you have one the English sleeve puller - Murphy Law for plumbing: If it can go wrong, it will go wrong. Best $40 or so that I have ever spent!
This is exactly what I was looking for!
Awesome! So happy to hear. Hope we can help again.
Ferrule pullers are a gamble .They can destroy the end of older copper tube sometimes .I always use a sharp short metal sawzall blade or tiny tim saw and carefully cut the ferrule until a groove is worn into it and a small flathead screwdriver will finish peeling it off .If the pipe is long enough, I'll cut it back a little to create new tubing for the new ferrule .Works great!
Good vid!
That the the way I learned how to do it with the mini hack. Your right though when the ferrule puller jacks the pipe up from someone over tightening then got to pull out the mini hack anyway. Thank you.
@@ThatFixItGuy You're doing a good job helping people save money and your instructions are very good . Have a great day and Cheers from Albania 🇦🇱🇺🇸
Thanks for the video. The water in our area is pretty hard, so the old valves can be stuck in the open position. This is particularly the case for the hot water line. What is the best practice for this situation when trying to swap out the old gates valves? Don't want to doing damage to the pipes and get into a costly repair. :-)
I love watching your videos. Thanks!
How about spraying some lock nut loosener
how did you stop the water in the first place before you take the valve out
We shut the water off to the house. Hope this helps
@@ThatFixItGuy wow, thanks!
Your welcome!
That copper pipe looks a bit shredded on the end. It also looks like there is an olive still on the pipe in front of the escutcheon plate. Why didn't you deburr the copper pipe? Why didn't you use emory cloth to clean the pipe before putting on the new shutoff valve? I think there is going to be some turbulence in that line because the end of the copper is not a clean end and chewed up.
Looks like you are turning the sleeve puller counter clockwise, correct or no? I wish you had showed replacing the escutheon plate. Does it easily pull off?
The escutcheon plate just pulls right off and replacement just slides in place. I think the compression sleeve puller is turning clockwise to tighten and remove it.
@@ThatFixItGuy thanks, I got those rigid compression wrenches you use and I don't think I could have done it without them. I did find a local sleeve puller by Superior Tools that worked great to remove the ring.
Such a nice video, very practical. Thanks a lot.
I have the same old fashion shut off valve. And I have a short question: Which kind and size tee should I buy to add a bidet sprayer? My plan is to attach the tee to the pipe, then attach the 3/8 pipe for the toilet, another outlet to the sprayer.
What is the minimum copper stub length coming out of the wall. I've got about 1". Is that enough to install a compression fitting?
Thanks! Great, detailed explanation.
Just what I needed ! Thanks !
Awesome. So glad this helped you out.
You just saved my life!❤
Awesome instructions, thanks man!
Your welcome. So glad this could help you out.
Dang...I couldn't get over how much you sound like Joe Rogan....gret video BTW
I have never heard that. He may be insulted. 😂
This is the second one for the basement bat. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOuLt8IL_GxhhaK8DBuKEL-zV0UJVpWZn , works great
Great video! Well explained! Appreciate your time.
Thank you for the kind words! Hope we can help you again!
Ok I’m glad you changed that crescent side
Yeah this tool is pretty sweet.
Thx a lot, very clear demo
Your welcome! Thank you for watching. Hope you got your issue resolved.
I am trying to remove the "stop valve" and can not separate the valve from the compression nut. I think they used Megaloc on the threads....I used two crescent wrenches but nothing!
I tried tapping...nothing.
Perhaps it is corrosion?
I guess I need to have someone with big muscles?
They could have used some form of pipe dope on them. Try taking a hair dryer to it for a little while then try removing it. The closer you and get the wrench’s together when trying to loosen the easier it will come apart.
Very nice. Thank you for sharing. 🙂
Glad this helped. Thank you for watching.
Do you have to remove the nut or cut the pipe when the leak is coming from a crack in the front of valve? Can I just screw on to old nut?
Hey Brian thanks for the video and great information 👍
Your welcome Britt! I love sharing the information!
Can't you use the bottom part of the one stop valve to help remove the old valve, instead of using the Crescent wrench on the body? I was thinking of getting one of those tools, so I haven't tried that myself. On the ferrule rings, I haven't had good luck with the pullers. I've had the rings dig into the pipe and the pipe end mushrooming. I bought a Dickie Dyer "olive" splitter from the UK and that has been much easier to use. Makes a satisfying snap when it cuts through the ring. It is hard to find such a tool in the US. Though, I imagine that one of the PEX ring cutters may work as well.
You can use the bottom, but some nuts are not standard and just a little off. I will have to look into the dickie dyer cracker. Sounds cool. I’ve totally had the mushrooming happen and have to pull out the torch. Some people love to over tighten compression joints. Thanks for the info’.
@@ThatFixItGuy I've seen a few different types of "olive splitters", but only one available in the US (Saf-T-Kut). That one was never in stock, so I sent for one from across the pond. I do have to wonder if a PEX ring cutter would do the trick, with some adjustment for the thinner walled pipe.
How do you solve a really slow leak behind the nut and the copper pipe?
Give the nut a small turn to loosen, which ideally will be confirmed with an increased leak. Then retighten the nut just a bit further than its original position. The leak should slow to a stop at the right tightness. (If the ferrule was improperly placed to begin with, it won’t behave as expected and the nut may actually bottom out when tightening without the leak ever stopping; time to replace it with a new ferrule and possibly a fresh end of pipe if you have enough excess to make a cut.)
Do you post links to the tools you suggest? Harbor freight is just down the street!
Did you ever make the video on how to install a Solid toilet supply line??
I actually just that about shooting a video for this the other day. Stay tuned. I will have one and break it down so anyone can do it.
If your house has a well, do you have to shut off the water pressure tank?
You should have explained if you are going to replace the escutcheon ring there are tabs on the inside of the escutcheon ring that has to be bent in to secure them to the copper tubing.on flange
I know. I should have replaced that escutcheon as well. I will make a video talking about this in better detail at some point. thank you.
I despise compression fittings, but I use them anyway because it allows you to easily position the valve straight up and down (you can do that with a threaded fitting too, but may have to re-apply thread tape a few times to get it straight). The worst is when you use a puller to remove the ring, then discover that you have flared the copper pipe and can't get the new ring on. Also, the fitting will leak if it's too tight or too loose. How do you know which it is? I sometimes under-tighten at first, then gradually tighten until the drip stops. I also ignore the instructions and smear the thinnest layer (almost invisible) of pipe thread compound on the compression ring. I've never had a leak after doing that.
Yeah if they are over tightened it sucks. All your comments about compression are true. They are easy to install. I really do the tightening by feel. I guess the best way to describe it is. I screw on hand tight then probably 3/4-1 full turn. I too like to put pipe dope on the ring. It is the only place that makes sense if your your going to put any at all. I think it will make a good video figuring out the proper turns on compression fittings.
That's why I don't like the ferrule pullers. I use a ferrule ring splitter instead. Much easier and does not damage the pipe. Mine is a Dickie Dyer "olive" splitter that I had shipped in from the UK but Saf-T-Kut makes a similar tool.
I am hoping you can help my solve my dilemma, we replaced the float valve, three times but it kept getting stopped up, Finally decided it was some trash coming from the old soldered on cut off valve. Problem is there isn't enough copper pipe to pull with your tool so we can put on a new valve. Our house was build in the 70's, the pipe was ran thru a hole drilled thru two side by side 2x10's at an angle going upward, then thru plywood, then thru a 2x4 plate for a bathroom wall It then comes out of the wall the pipe must be at a 90 degree angle coming out of the sheetrock, wallpapered bathroom wall.. Do you have any suggestions how I can get this cut off valve replaced in this situatuon? How do I get the old valve off and the copper pipe out of the wall We cut the copper pipe in the basement but it won't pull from the wall. Did they fasten them to something back in the 70's? We have decided to drill the hole bigger beside the copper so we can put in new pex line and new cut off valve, but wanted to ask you, I don't want to go thru the floor as we have just had a new tile floor. Do you have any better solution I am open. When the suggestion was to run it thru the floor I flipped out, and stopped the repair man at that point, He is to come back next week, Hope you can help me. thanks
There is a good chance that the copper 90s in the wall right there and is strapped down some way so it will not move. Is there anyway to go front when back side of the wall so you don’t mess up the wall paper?
@@ThatFixItGuy Don't I wish it could be that easy, Our den is on the other side with paneling, We are going to try and widen the opening in the bathroom and try to loosen enough from fasteners to get it out. Live and learn, leave enough pipe sticking out this time around, if we ever need to replace it again, Thanks so much for your quick reply and advice. I appreciate it,
You can for sure wide the hole a bit. They sell cover plates that will make it look like a normal set up. You can send me a picture or a little video on Facebook if you like. Getting eyes on it is always best. It is that fix it guy on Facebook.
Jeez just when I thought I already had all the tools I needed for the job.
Do you have the video on fixing overtightened valve. I think that's what happened to me.
When I removed the old sleeve, my pipe was scrunched at the tip, so when I insrtalled the new one, it leaks. Do you have any suggestions?
Do you have enough pipe to cut the bad spot off? You may have to remove the escutcheon pipe and then put a different style on later to get some extra length.
Doing The Work Is The Best Way To Learn...We changed Some Hard Angle-Stops!
th-cam.com/video/YVDzaOFaBG4/w-d-xo.html
This is a video of doing that kind of job
I change 2 - 3 of those angel stops per year. Each time a seemingly simple tasks turns into a nightmare when reusing the old compression nut and ferrule fails to produce a water tight seal. This tool has made it a breeze and now I never reuse the old nut and ferrule. In my opinion the tools pays for itself.
I totally agree. I’ve tried all kinds of different ferrule pullers and this is by far my favorite. I will be doing a comparison at some point.
Thanks, very helpful video.
where can I find that little tool?
I put a link in the description box of the video. Thank you for watching! We really appreciate it
THANK YOU
Thanks for the tips. I need to replace an ancient toilet valve and didn't know how. Now, hopefully, I do...barring any nasty 1956 surprises. I realize the biggest investment is gonna be the TOOLS!
You can use two adjustable jaw wrenches as well and don’t have to get a one stop wrench. The important thing is to alway use a back up. Thank you for watching. Please reach out if you need anything.
TOOLS!!! I spent soooo many frustrating hours over the years because of lack of tools. Now, I am smart enough to ask for tools for my Birthday and Christmas 😂
Such a great call!
Is there a link to get this tool?
There is one in the description box. Thank you.
Is that stainless steel fitting on a copper pipe ?
Hey great video man. Why is it that every damn time I grab them steel braided hoses from Home Depot to use on a newly replaced/updated faucet my supply hoses always leak a little then it finally stops. Am I over tightening or something??
Oh I get it. I have bought bad ones before. I like the hoses with the white washers on the inside. I know fluid master and Ferguson plumbing supply make these. I have had great luck with them not leaking like that.
I really enjoyed your video. May I ask: is Megalock used in potable pipes too? I had another question. Can a compression fitting be used a second time or is it a one time use? Meaning, can I use all the parts, including the ring to compression the fittings again? Thank you.
Yes megalock can be used on potable water. And you can use a compression fitting over and over again as long as you don’t over tighten to the point of no return.
@@ThatFixItGuy Thank you for your answer. I didn't put anything else on the fitting and now I know that I should've used teflon tape or a compound... now I have to take it off and try again. I wonder how difficult it's going to be to take it off. Hopefully easy.
You don't have to put anything on a compression fitting. I alway like to put a little dope on the ferral, but it is not needed.
@@ThatFixItGuy I now need to take it off bc I've been tightening it little by little and the drop build up over night continues. In a 24 hour, it builds a little drop that falls. So not putting anything on it has led me to now take it off and add tape or the compound on it. I'll probably do it Friday or Saturday.
How did it work out for you?
Great video. Thanks.
You are FANTASTIC!
Where can we purchase one of those sleeve pullers? Thanks.
In the description
What nut were you trying to loosen first? It seems you changed your mind
Good video... oh, by the way.. Lefty Loosey, righty tighty
Lol. Thank you.
The corroded trim plate though...but other than that, this was a great video, thanks
You are the second person that commented on that pipe escutcheon 😂. Makes me want to call my friend and shoot another video. Great attention to detail! Thank you for watching!
@@ThatFixItGuy 😂 thanks for making videos. TH-cam creators have helped me more than I can say. I noticed the corrosion because those are the things around my bathroom that I am fixing right now. Giving everything the trimmed out finished look, and then replacing anything that looks corroded. I’m the only person who will notice, but it will make me feel better 😃😂
I totally get it! I’m the same way
What's your opinion on shark bites? I'm no plumber but I dont trust them and refuse to use them. Most people dont know there is a right way to use a crescent wrench.
I’m guilty of using an adjustable jaw wrong from time to time. As for Sharkbite fittings there are times when I have used them. They have been around long enough now that you can trust that they will help you in a pinch.
I like them for temporary fixes. That and they are so expensive that is the only way I would use them.
Sharkbites are great, been using them for years.
They work really well! Thank you for watching and for your comments.
Instead of removing the old compression ring, would it be possible to reuse the nut and compression ring on the new shut off valve?
Yes you can do that, but not are valves are the same depth. You may have to cut a little copper off the end of the pipe to allow the compression ring to seal properly. Have a plumber friend that does this all the time instead of changing like me.
I went through exactly you described in the video. I have the english tool. it is the only tool i will use for this kind of jobs. however, i encounter the same problem at my brother's house (only my brother's house not anywhere else). the problem is either the ring contacts over time or the pipe expands over time. I am able to pull the ring out using the english tool without causing any damages to the pipe. Everything looks perfect until I put the new shutoff valve along with the new ring in.
guess what ! for whatever reasons, the removing the old ring out somehow thins the pipe. as a result, the new ring is clearly too big for the old pipe. voila ! it leaks. this happens everytime I replace the shutoff valves at my brothers' house not anywhere else. I ended up cutting shortening the pipe to fix this problem (which defeat the purpose of using the English tool). please give some ideas to address this phenomenon. thanks, Linh
Someone way over tightened the angle stop when they installed them. Even if you cut the ring off you may have still had to cut the pipe shorter for the repair.
Dont know if you've come across this combo tool, but look up pasco kwik tite & angle-on wrench kit
How can I replace this if the handle is missing for shut off?
Shut the water down to the hose then open that valve with some pliers to drain then you should be able to replace.
@@ThatFixItGuy thx
Great video
Thank you! We are happy to help and hope we can help again.
Show a flow guard cpvc connection video please
those gate valves seal better if they are all the way open sometimes the packing nut leaks if it is not tight against seal
This is a great point thank you Greg!
i went to the hardware store today to purchase the compression sleeve puller. the guy was adamant that i could just reuse the old compression nut and sleeve. so if he's right, i don't need to spend $30 for the tool. is he right?
You can get away with it at times. Sometimes the newer valves don’t allow the same amount of pipe to go inside the body and you have to cut a little pipe off. It also depends on the ferrule condition. You can try it.
You have the Ridgid tool take the 5/8” tool you have in your left hand and insert it into the 3/8” opening to hold the valve ??? You won’t need the Crescent Wrench.
Correct you would not need a crescent wrench. One thing to remember is when you put a new valve on make sure that you have the 3/8 nut on the valve (even if you don’t use it) because it you could damage the new valve when tightening it
Also I always try to tighten and loosen the nut and not the valve.
That flex line toilet line is also one time use. Those will NEVER seal again. Twice I have had to remove one end of them and twice it would not re-seal and I had to buy replacement lines.
If installed with the proper turned installing the flex line you can get more than one use out of them. Most people way over tighten them and then they do not work when you try to put them back in. I have been in that situation as well! It sucks at 8.00 a pop for sure.
Wanted to ask, but thanks for the answer.
I actually like using the old fashioned chrome plated copper lines if you don't plan to move or change toilet valve for many years they last forever
Good video
Thank you for watching. We really appreciate it.
I couldn't spin either nut lol. I gut heat. But I had to make sure so here I am lol
It was on there crazy tight then! If there is enough pipe on the back side to put a new one on I will just cut the old one off. Sometimes it is way easier than dealing with wrestling that bear!!
you'd have to turn off the main shut off of the house first?
Great help. like & hit the bell. 👍Thanks.
Great video but you should have replaced the chrome collar while you had it apart.
I know. I did not even think of it at the time. Was just concerned with helping getting the toilet back up and running.
i woulda changed that escutcheon just for a nice clean look. good video though, im just being a picky pain in the butt lol
I know. I just did not have one. Easy enough to cut off and put a slip ring escutcheon.