Yeah man. If a simple minded firefighter can do it, anyone can. It does seem intimidating at first, BUT there are definitely some mistakes that would create a grenade.
When I did my end play because of having to get the parts on the internet I ended with .0025 which is a bit tight . I did not have a thinner shim but it is not locking up ? It now has 7 or 8 thousand miles and so far it aint loosening up none. Later
Yes it is a heavy OEM 18 pounder, because I thought it was going into the bus. 🤷🏻♂️ I paid a small fee to have it drilled to 8 dowel from CBperformance.
that pulley looks to be the same diameter as the stock one! Is it really stock diameter and if so where did you get it. I never understood why most of them are smaller diameter than stock. Also, is the end play only adjusted at rebuild time with a fresh engine or can you adjust it later on as well.
Stock for 1600 is supposedly 7 inch, and the new one is definitely 7 inch. I didn’t have to add or remove any shims for the belt from what it was either. Yes you can adjust endplay anytime, buuuuut ya gotta pull the engine. I like to monitor ends as the engine ages, then adjust it with thicker spacers while doing a top end rebuild.
I was told only shim at rebuild, if you shim it constantly, it throws off the alignment of the rods to the jugs or something. No idea if this is correct. I shimmed my engine at least twice when the end play tolerance was out of spec.
The rods have lateral play, that will grow over time. Depending on the severity of your end play, slight shim adjustment is fine. Too much and you can definitely bind up the rod/piston/cylinder geometry, which will be felt when trying to turn by hand afterwards. At that point it’s time for machine work or a new case….just my thoughts anyway.
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Great video for us DIYers. Breaking it down like you did helps to overcome with confidence.
Yeah man. If a simple minded firefighter can do it, anyone can. It does seem intimidating at first, BUT there are definitely some mistakes that would create a grenade.
Those tools are definitely nice to have. Turned out nice and couldn't have ask for better results. 👍
Thanks brother……Rats Revenge 🐀
Super helpful, much appreciated !
Glad it was helpful, thanks
You’re doing a great job with that!
Love my torque multiplier 👍
Much appreciated. I don’t know what I’d do without it! Well I do know just hate to think about it.
Perfect job
Thanks Corey. Time will tell.
Nice job. 👍
Looking GOOD!
Thanks Patrick, I’m really excited to run this one!
Nice video thx
Great work
Thanks Hussian. I’m getting closer to done!
Lol'd at 'ask me how i know about the O ring' 😂
😂
Nice job
Thanks OTTO ✌️
When I did my end play because of having to get the parts on the internet I ended with .0025 which is a bit tight . I did not have a thinner shim but it is not locking up ? It now has 7 or 8 thousand miles and so far it aint loosening up none. Later
Seems all good then. It’s nice to compare real stories vs ‘recommend’ stuff. Sweet to know you built your own engine 💪🏼
Did I miss it or did you/did you not lube the shims on the final install?
you used a counterweighted crankshaft, is the flywheel the stock weight?
Yes it is a heavy OEM 18 pounder, because I thought it was going into the bus. 🤷🏻♂️
I paid a small fee to have it drilled to 8 dowel from CBperformance.
that pulley looks to be the same diameter as the stock one! Is it really stock diameter and if so where did you get it. I never understood why most of them are smaller diameter than stock. Also, is the end play only adjusted at rebuild time with a fresh engine or can you adjust it later on as well.
Stock for 1600 is supposedly 7 inch, and the new one is definitely 7 inch. I didn’t have to add or remove any shims for the belt from what it was either.
Yes you can adjust endplay anytime, buuuuut ya gotta pull the engine. I like to monitor ends as the engine ages, then adjust it with thicker spacers while doing a top end rebuild.
I was told only shim at rebuild, if you shim it constantly, it throws off the alignment of the rods to the jugs or something. No idea if this is correct. I shimmed my engine at least twice when the end play tolerance was out of spec.
The rods have lateral play, that will grow over time. Depending on the severity of your end play, slight shim adjustment is fine. Too much and you can definitely bind up the rod/piston/cylinder geometry, which will be felt when trying to turn by hand afterwards. At that point it’s time for machine work or a new case….just my thoughts anyway.
Where did you get that flywheel?
CBperformance
@@bomberobus Didn't know stock weight flywheels was available from CB.
What extra oil cooler/sump is that on the engine?
That’s the 1770 Thine Line 1 1/2 quart oil sump from CB Performance. It’s awesome but you can’t squat the stance out. Well you can, but…..
wait!!!you just said 35 thousandths???? Hmmm
😂 I needed 35 thou of shims, then the desired end result is “3 to 5 thou”…..insert country accent and 3 to 5 probably sounds like 35
Your measuring end play from the outside of the flywheel. Not impressed.
Waaaaah