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Bombero Bus VW
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 7 มิ.ย. 2019
A channel about the VW aircooled journey, which is the perfect fusion of artistictic expression and mechanical satisfaction.
Driving With Drop Spindle and Brake Upgrades
Driving With Drop Spindle and Brake Upgrades
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VW 1800 Bench Start, Break In, First Drive
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CB Performance Full Flow Oil Pump On Aircooled VW
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CSP Bellcrank Linkage For VW Bug. It’s So Sweet!
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(Pt 6) VW 1800 Build Dizzy Drop And Lifter Comparison
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(Pt 5) VW 1800 Piston Cut And Cam Bearing Issue
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(Pt 5) VW 1800 Piston Cut And Cam Bearing Issue
dope
@@mikemckeand5648 thanks man 🤙🏼
Does the window regulator get installed first? Before the vent window?
@@seanthebaptist4030 it was on mine. I don’t know enough to know if that’s “proper,” but I can say installing the regulator before the vent window worked for the ‘65
Ahhh I miss my Bug! Mine had twin carbbies and an extractor, it used to sound more like a Harley! Lol you’ve got a sweet little ride there mate. Thank you for sharing ❤
I think mine were Webber Carbs I sold it in 2001 for 800 bucks 😢😢😢
Many thanks. I know that sounded nice! We buy, we sell…things happen. We’ll always love ‘em! Thanks for checkin it out
Did you put a spacer behind the top pully to align it with the bottom pully?
I haven’t had to do that and I’m not sure if that’s the fix. I have had alignment problems though. The fix for me was changing the backplate that attaches the alternator to the doghouse fan shroud. I had to use a recessed style backplate because that’s the only one that would line things up for me, which is apparently because I’m using a Scat fan shroud. That was the permanent fix that worked. Now when I got the engine from the previous owner, and before I rebuilt it, there was a random washer back there as a spacer and it DID NOT WORK WELL.
Could it be that the the 90 degree point is the cam's point where there is the least tension from the cams to the valve springs.
I think yes. I think that is definitely one of the many variables that make this happen. It seems like that is why landing on 90 indicated the overall health of the engine. If it doesn’t land on 90(ish), then something is off a weee bit. Then we get the fun adventure of figuring it out LOL. These are just my observation and humble opinions as a hobbyist 🤷🏻♂️
Looks and sounds great
Thanks ReeHernandez
Never done this.. got me a 66 1/2 (July) VW beetle. May need more help! Thanks
The sweet 66! Yeah this wasn’t easy but if you get it done it is very satisfying, and the new rubber looks so good.
Love it, thanks for the video! I want to do the same engine upgrade from stock. Can I get by with high ratio rockers instead of W110 cam? Stock case is in good condition so undesirable to split it for a cam upgrade.
Thanks. IMHO I think you can do fine with the rockers. This engine needed a cam anyways. But I wouldn’t hesitate to spit the case while it’s out (if it has a bunch of miles and needs to be checked out.) Otherwise…rocker on, and best of luck.
I finally put in the order for mine. I ordered direct from Germany CSP parts. It was actually cheaper than all the American parts suppliers and that included shipping and the return spring too. I'm excited to install it once it arrives.
Oh man I think you’ll like it! I always felt like I was tuning the linkage as well as the carbs with the hex bar style stuf😂, with all those moving parts, down rods, plastic bushings etc. Best of luck dude!
yeah for sure. I mostly like the cleaner look. I’m just worried about the twist hitting the plate cover bolt. Hope it clears. I also have the scat fan shroud so we will see what happens. I think I have the flat backing plate. I gotta check. I didn’t notice if my belt was lined up. It must be cuz it hasn’t come off 😆 the final touch will be a cb performance pulley.
@@SanDiego_VDubLife it sounds like you know all of the caveats that come with running it, but it’ll be worth it brother. It does takes some finessing and some particulars, but I think it’s the best version to have when it’s done. Like you said, nice and cleeeean too! I honestly felt like it was a performance upgrade, gave it some snap.
@@bomberobus Yes, that is the real reason I want one actually. Because my throttle does not return all the way. I think it is the linkage binding up. I checked everything else and added return springs and it still doesn't return to idle. Hope this helps.
I was hoping to see something about the 6 V to 12 V conversion
Hmmmm. Maybe it wasn’t that video but I did make a vid about it. It’s in there somewhere. It was a scary thing to do for the first time but it had to be done.
Cool. I wish I could get mine to sound that good. Did you change the oil right afterward or a few hundred miles later? Did you use a break-in oil? What temperature were you looking for with the IR temperature gun? Sorry for the questions. I'm trying to learn this stuff for my own project bus.
Broke it in with the same type of oil we run with. Changed it right after break in and then again at 500 miles. I don’t know if that’s what’s best, but it worked so well that’s how I do it now because I usually stick to what I’ve seen work…in person. No problem with asking questions and hoping the best for your Bus!
Your cheese head screw from the cylinder head tin to the fan shroud is loose...... It probably fell out by now... Tee-Hee
@@anrescue it sure did haha. Grabbed a bag of ‘em.
@ did you ever try putting on the balance tube to see if it made a difference? Or did you ever put some dual for IDF ‘s on it?
Nice work! Anybody did same pop out instalation for New Beetle?
Not that I know of 🤷🏻♂️
I put a low pressure oscillating fuel pump on my Beetle two years ago and I much prefer it over a mechanical pump. No more hot start issues. If it fails I have one ready to go that just plugs in. I've had two mechanical pumps fail that filled the crankcase with gasoline.
I couldn’t agree more. I also keep an extra pump on board. I appreciate the genius/utilitarianism of the mechanical pump but am preferring other options right now, for many reasons.
@@bomberobus My car has a mixture of modern and old school. I have an electric fuel pump and still have points and condenser. Funny thing is that some guys will argue for the mechanical fuel pump while arguing against using points and condenser.
I don’t think anyone in the vintage VW world should ever argue about some parts over others, but that’s just me. We use what we can find, afford or rebuild. Maybe we find some preferences on that journey, but just get ‘em running and drive ‘em is what I say
@@bomberobus People in the Facebook forums will argue over the color of the sky.
hey you know what would be one good thing to do to the stock crank is get it balanced because that aren't balance very well from the factory then you can run some higher RPM's
True. Even when they’re advertised as balanced.
My engine sounds the same as your problem. Also running same pertronix distributor w/ single 44 hpmx on 1914. I’ve taken the carb apart twice & cleaned jets. Extremely weak spark on #1 & #3. Did you have weak spark also on those cylinders? I can remove those plug wires when running & almost no change. I have the cheap chrome clamp, tried to make a hillbilly jumper to see if a better ground on the distributor was the problem, but no change.
Awesome video thanks for the info.May i ask what throttle linkage you are using on your carbs?
That is the “push/pull” or “bellcrank” linkage made by CSP. It’s been really good so I put one on my Bus too. I think I have an install vid on it because it turned out to have so many benefits I enjoy. Thanks for watching!
Great video.I am in the middle of rebuilding a pair myself that are a bit grimmier than the ones you have.Do you have any recommendations for a cleaner other than the standard spray car cleaner?
Thanks. I don’t think I showed actually using it in the vid, but that orange bucket on the left is Gunk brand carburetor parts cleaner. It has a basket inside that you put parts in and soak overnight, BUT NOT THE PLASTIC FLOATS. I also used spray cleaner and a little elbow grease, but the overnight part soaker was really good for knocking off the big stuff. Best of luck moving forward.
Hola estoy fabricando una y lo hice mal las ruedas arrastran al doblar . Enganche de los extremos . No tiene motor ni volante mi combi . Alguien me puede ayudar soy de argentina. Aqui esas cosas no exixten
Good stuff 👌 👍
@@shaunh2798 thanks Shaun. 🤙🏼
I hope you're doing well.
@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle viper green! Yea sir, I’m good. I still drive the dubs ALOT. I have ALOT going on in personal life too, it’s all good and positive, but keeps me from making vids for now. Thanks for checking in bro. Hope you are doing well also.
@@bomberobus Glad to hear you're doing well. I'm doing well also, I got my 76 back on the road. Just miss seeing new videos on your channel, about your dubs projects.
Man your work area is a dream! I built all 3 of my engines in my SoCal garage squeezed in next to my car ! Only good thing about Cal is all the machine shops there that do custom work on VW’s GOOD WORK‼️
Thanks James, and props for building 3 engines! I know that SoCal weather is probably perfect for cruisin the vdubs. Yep, We can’t even get a case opened up around here.
Super helpful, much appreciated !
Glad it was helpful, thanks
I wanna buy one how can I find it
Go to thesamba.com and search jeremyrockjock towbar. It’ll show his email too and he was very responsive when I dealt with him. Got it quick and high quality.
Thanks again for the great video, this winter im pulling in 1600 engine out for some rework compression is 100psi on all cylinder and potential I will slip in 88 and I notice the video is 3 year old and I’m curious how the 88 performed. Thanks again
6k miles and running strong. I haven’t pulled it apart for inspection yet though. Compression “feels” good. I won’t build another 1600 as long as the 88’s are available. Down side is needing new heads for them.
@@bomberobus thanks for the information I appreciate on mine the previous owner add new head and I will check around if someone do head bore.
@MarsGarage333 best wishes on the build. I believe the extra power is needed to actually drive safe in todays traffic. Otherwise they will run you over! 😂
@@bomberobus I just received my 88 thick wall and they are a big difference in thickness now next step is my deck height and order some new head and I’m curious which head your brother installed and how the deck height was.
@MarsGarage333 I used a 43 thou deck height with a 74mm crank. 88 thick walls with AA heads for 90.5. That’s my 1800 build on this channel. 6k miles and still strong.
Does your fan rub on your fan shroud at all. Im running the same setup and my fan is hitting on my fan shroud. What fan hub are you running does that make a difference?
Yes when I switched to this style shroud, I had to use a different fan hub. I had to use the recessed face fan hub that is for generators and not the flat face hub that is for alternators. It still holds the alternator though. Also, through the years it seems that the thickness of the fans themselves changed. You could need a different fan altogether, but it’s worth seeing if you can just shim it properly first. They sell the fan shims at any almost aircooled VW supply place.
How's the heads holding up been a minute?
Only 6k miles but so far so good. I don’t bang on em too bad though. Inspected pretty close (what I could see) on the last valve adjustment and things looked pretty good. Probably gonna run it pretty good when the Fall weather kicks in!
Sweet man , do you happen to remember the jets you were running in that setup ,iam getting a off idle bog my buggy
On the 40s I'm running 55 idle jets, 145 main jets and 200 air correction jets. I'm at sea level.
@@ratsrevengevdubs1606 yeah I am prolly lean my mains are 115 , it will bog out then get past the main jet and take off .iam only a 1600 with a scat c25 cam
@@shawn9878yeah I had to experiment with my jetting. I had to buy a a few different jets before I found my combination. For best results make sure your carbs are tuned correctly. Tune your carb hot. Play around with the mixture screws then test drive. Good luck man. 👍
Great video!!
@@79Keepingitreal thank you. It was a tough job to do and explain
What suspension are you running in front if any? Mine is to bouncy
EMPI 2 inch narrowed adjustable beam. EMPI 2 1/2 inch drop spindles. Slightly shorter than stock shocks. Still a bit bouncy lol. I think I could smooth it out more if I found the right shocks.
Great video great work, im looking to install dual 34 weber on my 1600 and I'm curious if the 40 will work better.
IMHO you don’t need 40’s for a 1600, and you’ll probably have to jet them down to get optimal performance. But, if was going to do it again, I’d probably get 40’s just so I’d already have them when I build a bigger engine. 34 pros are better gas mileage, con is only one barrel trying to feed two intakes. Vice versa for the 40’s. But like I said, id get the 40’s to be prepared for bigger engine plus they can be made to run good on 1600 too. Id have to try the real Webers though, but they aren’t cheap. In my case, I got the EMPU 34’s barely used at a great price so that’s what I ran. They still go perfectly to this day, but you have to get the Redline kit with quality needle and seat. Best wishes with whatever you choose, dub daily!
@@bomberobus Thank you for the feed back i appreciated all information. Thank you again.
Is the billet clamp ok to use on a stock distributor?
It’s not something you see a lot, but there was a short period that I used it on a stock distributor with no problem.
Brand new to VW (although mine is a sand rail) and I got that exact box yesterday. I started checking ring gaps, and on the second ring I pulled off, damn thing snapped. Nobody said how brittle these were! Oh well. I learned and have new rings on the way. I was just going to leave them alone and clock them, but I think I’ll check them anyways
Yeah we learn hard VW lessons all the time. I’m excited for you if you’re building an engine already. You didn’t waste any time. It’s a struggle but so satisfying. Best wishes on getting going.
@@bomberobus I didn’t have a choice. 🤣 I drove it three times on the road before a tick started. Took it apart, found my oiler ring had given up on one piston, all the cylinders were pitted, one had a gouge taken out and one was cracked. So on to the tear down I went. With lots of TH-cam, calls to my hippie friend who breathes VW, and the books. It’s been fun so far though!
excellent video...great help for an old man, ( 94 ).
Thank you sir. I’m not spring chicken, and VW’s require the patience of a mature man haha
Great vid. A lot of great tips. I will be putting in some Weber 34 ICT in my 1970 bus (CB Performance Linkage). This was super helpful. One question...that rubber seal on the bottom pan, I see yours is on top. I have one that is split and has two flaps. Do they split the pan with one underneath and one on top or do you have both flaps on the top?
Yea sir, that style is meant to split one on top and one below. Not an easy chore! I learned to to proactively manipulate/tend to the places of the seal AS IM PUTTING THE ENGINE IN. It can be a doozie to try and situate it afterwards.
@@bomberobus I put in a new exhaust and pulled that pan....that is when I noticed the split seal and both "halves" were under the pan. I will get back in there and see if I can put it in properly. BTW - How do you like your Dual Weber 34 ICT? There are some people very against these carbs. Can I ask what jets you are using? Mine came with F78 emulsion tubes and from what I can gather the F6 is the preferred for a VW 1600 motor. What are you using for all your jets?
I have one of those shifters in my dune buggy i just bought. I don't have to pull the trigger to engage reverse and it doesn't want to downshift. Do you have any suggestions for me please
I think I have a video where I changed the shift coupler and bushing that you might want to see. Also it could just be a simple base plate adjustment, which I think is in that vid too. Pretty easy fixes, you just have to start with the easiest possibility and expand if needed from there. Try loosening the nuts that’s hold the shifter base down (slightly), then make sure you can shift from 3rd down to second. When you find that sweet spot, tighten the nuts back up. Hope it works because you’re gonna love that shifter if it does.
Great video Thank you i will need to add a gauges and regulator on mine, i got a 1600 and i have a pump install this is the way i purchased it and run great and start great the issue I'm investigating now is when i take a good ride and stop the engine when is hot and try to restart really hard to start. I'm curious if its fuel issue because of the pump i will need to check my carb if it flooding.
Sounds like the old “hard start” issue where it is flooding. If you push the gas pedal down (when it’s hot) it should start easier but that doesn’t fix the underlying problem, and the oil starts to smell like gas. There’s a good chance that your current pump is pushing too much fuel. Best of luck and I hope the gauge and regulator fix it for you.
Nvm, I looked at your older videos and saw the CSP linkage indtall
So far the CSP linkage is still working like champ. I’m gonna try to stay with that “bellcrank” or “push/pull” linkage if I can ever get some Weber 40’s. Dub daily!
Greetings sir. What linkage are you using, if I may ask?
Aqui no brasilia não encontrei explicação sobre o uso dessa ferramenta, ganhou mais um inscrito.
onky the best - hahaha in europe standard is 95 octane, best 98. cheers!
Our fuel prices here are still high too. Cheers across the pond!
@@bomberobus in finland one litre 98 costs almost 2€
@@jamipatokoski6487 and the costs of VW parts have gone up so much too.
Tighten up your belt bro, it’s way too loose!
@@brianzimmer5532 it definitely was. She good now. 👍🏼
Funny that my '86 Brazilian bug came stock with an almost identical linkage. Factory dual alcohol carbs.
I didn’t know that. Good thing for you though. I still think it’s a great set up, compared to previous ones I’ve used anyway
@@bomberobus Absolutely, I love it. If I want to put Webers on it, I'd have to buy something like this so the length and height are correct. Happy to know this product exists!
Why s there so much grease on the coupler? That why the rubber end pieces deteriorated. Leave 'em dry.
@@sidvis7235 Hmmmm, I will try that on the next one I do. That was the original one decades old. I hear that the new polyurethane ones don’t last long. Mines still shifting like new, but I’ll leave it dry next time so I can compare.
@@bomberobus Just a light film on the pin is fine, but's that's all I would lubricate. Gease and oil do not mix well with rubber. Neoprene isdifferent, it will withstand petroleum products. That's why fuel lines are not rubber, but neoprene.
Great video! Thank you
@@alexsantos-o1c I appreciate that.
El Tunco El Salvador! Hahah I live here in ES, great that you've got a souvenir.
Souvenir is cool, but even better are the memories! Great hospitality and waves. I’ll never forget ES 😎
great video brother! going thru this now so this helps a ton!!!
Thank you and best of luck 🤙🏼
Look really good, great work, I'm looking to do mine and i got 165/65R15 and I'm curious if it will rub.
The ones on this Bug rubbed ever so slightly on bumps. Not gonna lie…very light massaging was done at the fender well. Very light.
@@bomberobus Thanks
The stumble on the EPCs was probably due to the setting on the accelerator pump linkage. There's are 2 holes for the linkage, the outside hole is for a small squirt (stock 1600 or smaller) and you have to move the linkage to the inside hole which is 'big squirt' for engines bigger than 1600...
I’m doing the same in my ‘64, I got it redone but will slowly do the interior. I need seatbelts too but want them front and back. I opted for 3 point, non retractable in front and lap belts in back. How do you attach the shoulder harness, what are you attaching it to? Also, do you have a rear seatbelt video?
Good clean interior is the icing on the cake…I’m not there yet. My shoulder harness bolted into the window B-post. On mine it had a threaded hole there, and I had to order a bolt. Ours are only one year apart so maybe you have that same hole?