Thank you for posting these videos. Im a self taught auto mechanic so learning bikes is my new hobby and you’ve helped me gain insight and learn. Can’t wait to get a bike later this year 😎
This is really good stuff and very well done. I can tell you for sure if I was just starting my career I would be standing at your door everyday trying to go to work for you. You work like I worked with excellent results. I'm 72 now so that's the way it goes.
I recently purchased a 2012 xl1200c. I'm trying to learn all that I can about it as I do my own wrenching. Your videos are with out a doubt some of the best I've seen. Your practical approach makes learning so easy but yet you are so thorough. A true professional! Thank you!
I'm a longtime mechanic but have never had a Sportster engine apart. Thanks for all the videos. Safety glasses are always a good idea when using the grinder.
Outstanding... love that Redline assembly lube myself. Of all the motorcycles I've owned and worked on, the Buells and Harley Davidsons are the most fun to wrench on.
“Gravity... Damn gravity..” lmao seem like my kinda people. Great videos brother I learn a lot from them. Got a x1 lightning red racing stripe #245 of 800 I’d like to see how to uninstall the frame and how to reinstall the frame.
fantasic video!!!!......me encantan vuestros vídeos tan perfectamente explicados,(sorry,no speak english).....son de gran ayuda a todos los aficionados. Saludos desde Barcelona (Spain)
Helping a guy out, pulled his cover and found a pinion bushing on the cam cover worn down to the aluminum about 1.5 mm. Can I replace the bushing without line reem? Also the rocker box bolt have stainless bolts and washers I recall all the bikes I have messed with had black bolts hope you open tomorrow so I can order the correct bolt and bushing or cover!
Do I understand correctly that the reason you cut down the cam cover to bare minimum was to allow easier access to the oil pump? In particular, to allow the oil hoses to be connected after the cam cover is installed?
Awesome video! But now I'm just curious about the ignition module... doesn't that need to be installed in the cam cover before that gets reinstalled on the bike?
HAMMER DAN ! HELP! what would cause the cams to seize up only when I put the cover on and bolt it down tight??? even with just two or three bolts in when I put the bike in 5th gear and try to spin the back wheel in order to find TDC like ya taught me the cams lock right up . But they spin freely as they should when the cover is off.. I have been struggling to figure this out. I know you will have an answer and it was probably in the video and I missed it. They are the same cams that came out going right back in. I never had clearance i wasssues before so i dont think thats the problem but i could be wrong and im checking .Thanks in advance.
The sprayer that you used on the cams after the bench grinder? What’s the brand and model number and what are you spraying? I haven’t found a sprayer that holds up to laquer thinner
What brand of wheels are those behind you in beginning of video?? I have a rear just like that .. super lite weight.. been looking for a front match...
Love the content, it's very helpful and informative. My only complaint is the constant volume fluctuation due to mic placement, why don't you clip it to your collar?
Great video I seem to be having a problem with my 04 Buell. That bronze oiling gear shredded and messed up all the cams and oil pump. I changed everything and cleaned it all out good replaced all parts. After 20 miles the gear shredded again and ruin the new oil pump. Change all parts for new parts change the oil filter and did the oil change. Am I missing something? Please help
My guess is that something is locking up your oil pump. If that oil pump locks up, it'll rip the teeth right off the gear. Did you have any kind of a failure of a piston or a cam gear or anything like that which could have left some shrapnel in the crankcase? It doesn't take a very big piece to lock up the pump as the clearances are really tight. If you've got shrapnel sitting in the bottom of the crankcase, it might just keep happening until the motor is disassembled and the shrapnel cleaned out.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE after cleaning it all out the first time I'm putting in the new components there didn't seem to be any any shrapnel. But after the incident upon removal I found brass shrapnel from the gear the oil pump was seized because there was a piece inside that got stuck. I'm thinking about putting it back together one more time but I'm scared it'll happen again.
Looking at putting one of your 80hp kits on my '93 1200. I noticed you said anything OVER an N4, youd have to clearance work. Im planning on running the N4 cams. It sounds like I wont have to do any clearance work, but is there a possibility of it being needed? Or are N4s straight "bolt in/no clearance needed?"
Do lifters stay down if they are not pumped up first or if they leak down from sitting, my 01 Buell has very noisy lifters like a knocking. I'm thinking they leaked down with little to no oil in them. Can I just take them out and prime them up like you said in another vid you done for for new lifter install
They refill themselves from your oil pressure when you run the motor. Generally that happens really fast, although I've seen it take a minute on fresh builds done with empty lifters. If you've run the motor for more than a minute or two and they're still making noise, there's something wrong. It may not be the lifters, too.
Why so much assembly grease? I thought that was only to help with installing during assembly. Doesn't the oil take care of the lubrication after assembly?
I have an 02 883 with the basic Conversion set up. I have the W cam installed. I know clearance issues happen with the n4. Is the 505/515 fueling cam okay?
Yes, the Feuling 505/515 is similar to the N4 except it has much less overlap, which results in lower TDC lifts and makes them compatible with stock 883 heads. If you're looking for top end power and your 883 heads are stock, it's probably the best choice. If you're looking for more of a mid range grind, the N2 is a better choice. See the dyno sheet here that shows how the N2 affects the powerband: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#faq1 . Sorry, I don't have a similar chart for the 505/515 grind, but it's intake close timing is similar to the N4 and as such it's timed to be more of a top end grind. The intake close timing is the key indicator of the rpm range of the cams.
Hola amigo, tengo problema con una Harley Davidson, tiene chispa, compresión y gasolina, pero no arranca. Aplicándole gasolina directamente al carburador arranca únicamente el cilindro trasero, no así el de adelante. Habrás pasado ese problema? Ayuda!
When he says 1-2-3-4, he's referring to the positions of the cam. They are numbered 1-2-3-4 going from the rear to the front. You don't install them in that order though, because the number 2 cam cannot be installed until the number 1 and 3 are installed.
The need for cam box clearancing, or lack thereof, depends primarily on what cams you're installing. Some cams drop right in. Some cams need major clearancing. And in between those two extremes, there are cams that may or may not go right in, depending on the casting shift of the specific cases used, and also how deep the factory pressed the pinon race into the case half. But before you go choosing cams based on whether or not they'll need cam box clearancing, realize that depending on your build (specifically how your heads are prepared), that additional lift you can get by clearancing the cam box might be really important to achieving your power goals. And clearancing is not hard to do, read this for more information: www.hammerperf.com/ttxlcaminstall.shtml#lobeswing . I would not let it deter you from running the correct cams for your application. It's just not that hard to do.
Well, the owner of the bike probably wouldn't appreciate us revealing that publicly. But if you're considering a build, contact us using this form and we'll put together a quote: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
Man I wish I knew a mechanic this thorough and good.
Thank you for posting these videos. Im a self taught auto mechanic so learning bikes is my new hobby and you’ve helped me gain insight and learn. Can’t wait to get a bike later this year 😎
Like going to trade school..With a great teacher !
Excellent tutorial which I followed to a T. Thanks for these vids Dan, it takes a lot of apprehension out of doing this kind of engine work.
Dan and the Hammer team#1. These giys areso helpful with any questions you may have. 👍👍
This is really good stuff and very well done. I can tell you for sure if I was just starting my career I would be standing at your door everyday trying to go to work for you. You work like I worked with excellent results. I'm 72 now so that's the way it goes.
Mother in law: "Where's that tea pot i gave you for your anniversary??"
Hammer Dan: "Ohhhhhh.. Yeah i thought that was a brake-clean dispenser."
I recently purchased a 2012 xl1200c. I'm trying to learn all that I can about it as I do my own wrenching. Your videos are with out a doubt some of the best I've seen. Your practical approach makes learning so easy but yet you are so thorough. A true professional! Thank you!
I'm a longtime mechanic but have never had a Sportster engine apart. Thanks for all the videos. Safety glasses are always a good idea when using the grinder.
I want this guy to rebuild my engine! So professional
Outstanding... love that Redline assembly lube myself. Of all the motorcycles I've owned and worked on, the Buells and Harley Davidsons are the most fun to wrench on.
Really enjoy watching, you have very in depth videos. Great content keep it coming. 2004 sportster custom owner
Gonna install a set of SE series 15 cams. Thanks for the video, very informative.
Wow !!
What a top pro teacher!! Big Thanks!
Outstanding video, like all the others!! Congrats Hammer
This was the video I was waiting for, I take off my hat in front of these professionals!
He’s one of the best for sure
appreciate all the videos on youtube and tech tips the hammer website. a wealth of information. thanks!
“Gravity... Damn gravity..” lmao seem like my kinda people. Great videos brother I learn a lot from them. Got a x1 lightning red racing stripe #245 of 800 I’d like to see how to uninstall the frame and how to reinstall the frame.
Hammer Dan your videos are the best.Thanks 👍🏍🏁
Most excellent video, I just wish I had the extra cash to do a full on 90 inch build
fantasic video!!!!......me encantan vuestros vídeos tan perfectamente explicados,(sorry,no speak english).....son de gran ayuda a todos los aficionados. Saludos desde Barcelona (Spain)
Ythe best videos on theme . Keep 1250 parts available . :-)
I learned a lot. Thank you.
Great video very detailed!
Helping a guy out, pulled his cover and found a pinion bushing on the cam cover worn down to the aluminum about 1.5 mm. Can I replace the bushing without line reem?
Also the rocker box bolt have stainless bolts and washers I recall all the bikes I have messed with had black bolts hope you open tomorrow so I can order the correct bolt and bushing or cover!
Do I understand correctly that the reason you cut down the cam cover to bare minimum was to allow easier access to the oil pump? In particular, to allow the oil hoses to be connected after the cam cover is installed?
On the long flat part of the lobe was an airgap between the lobe and the lifter it looked maxed out to me at 4:17
Another great video!
Awesome video! But now I'm just curious about the ignition module... doesn't that need to be installed in the cam cover before that gets reinstalled on the bike?
no, it can be installed after the cam cover is on the bike.
HAMMER DAN ! HELP! what would cause the cams to seize up only when I put the cover on and bolt it down tight??? even with just two or three bolts in when I put the bike in 5th gear and try to spin the back wheel in order to find TDC like ya taught me the cams lock right up . But they spin freely as they should when the cover is off.. I have been struggling to figure this out. I know you will have an answer and it was probably in the video and I missed it. They are the same cams that came out going right back in. I never had clearance i wasssues before so i dont think thats the problem but i could be wrong and im checking .Thanks in advance.
Great video!
The sprayer that you used on the cams after the bench grinder? What’s the brand and model number and what are you spraying? I haven’t found a sprayer that holds up to laquer thinner
Liked the video. How about some big v-twin videos.
on our list of to do's.
What brand of wheels are those behind you in beginning of video??
I have a rear just like that .. super lite weight.. been looking for a front match...
Thanks for the vid
Ya'll should do a video of pulling the engine on a Buell X1 or similar.
Next time we get one in the shop we will see if we can shoot one.
I want to replace my oil drive gear with the brass one
Looks like I can just pull the #2 cam and do it
When are you guys going to fix the big twin tabs on your website??
That number one cam was out one tooth when you first assembled it right?
Love the content, it's very helpful and informative. My only complaint is the constant volume fluctuation due to mic placement, why don't you clip it to your collar?
we'll work on that
After clearancing lifter boss. Wat grit paper should I use to clean the edge up with. ?
Best vid
Thanks Dan :)
Excelente exemplo .
Bom trabalho
Great video I seem to be having a problem with my 04 Buell. That bronze oiling gear shredded and messed up all the cams and oil pump. I changed everything and cleaned it all out good replaced all parts. After 20 miles the gear shredded again and ruin the new oil pump. Change all parts for new parts change the oil filter and did the oil change. Am I missing something? Please help
My guess is that something is locking up your oil pump. If that oil pump locks up, it'll rip the teeth right off the gear. Did you have any kind of a failure of a piston or a cam gear or anything like that which could have left some shrapnel in the crankcase? It doesn't take a very big piece to lock up the pump as the clearances are really tight. If you've got shrapnel sitting in the bottom of the crankcase, it might just keep happening until the motor is disassembled and the shrapnel cleaned out.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE after cleaning it all out the first time I'm putting in the new components there didn't seem to be any any shrapnel. But after the incident upon removal I found brass shrapnel from the gear the oil pump was seized because there was a piece inside that got stuck. I'm thinking about putting it back together one more time but I'm scared it'll happen again.
Looking at putting one of your 80hp kits on my '93 1200. I noticed you said anything OVER an N4, youd have to clearance work. Im planning on running the N4 cams. It sounds like I wont have to do any clearance work, but is there a possibility of it being needed? Or are N4s straight "bolt in/no clearance needed?"
N4's are bolt-ins for 1200's, no clearancing work or checks required and they work with all the stock valvetrain hardware.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Sweet! Thanks for the quick response. Definitely going to get my parts from you guys!
Do lifters stay down if they are not pumped up first or if they leak down from sitting, my 01 Buell has very noisy lifters like a knocking. I'm thinking they leaked down with little to no oil in them. Can I just take them out and prime them up like you said in another vid you done for for new lifter install
They refill themselves from your oil pressure when you run the motor. Generally that happens really fast, although I've seen it take a minute on fresh builds done with empty lifters. If you've run the motor for more than a minute or two and they're still making noise, there's something wrong. It may not be the lifters, too.
Can I change the oil pump gasket without taking of the cam cover
Why so much assembly grease? I thought that was only to help with installing during assembly. Doesn't the oil take care of the lubrication after assembly?
It takes awhile before engine oil reaches the cam box. You don't want it running dry during initial start up.
I have an 02 883 with the basic Conversion set up. I have the W cam installed. I know clearance issues happen with the n4. Is the 505/515 fueling cam okay?
Yes, the Feuling 505/515 is similar to the N4 except it has much less overlap, which results in lower TDC lifts and makes them compatible with stock 883 heads. If you're looking for top end power and your 883 heads are stock, it's probably the best choice. If you're looking for more of a mid range grind, the N2 is a better choice. See the dyno sheet here that shows how the N2 affects the powerband: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#faq1 . Sorry, I don't have a similar chart for the 505/515 grind, but it's intake close timing is similar to the N4 and as such it's timed to be more of a top end grind. The intake close timing is the key indicator of the rpm range of the cams.
Hola amigo, tengo problema con una Harley Davidson, tiene chispa, compresión y gasolina, pero no arranca.
Aplicándole gasolina directamente al carburador arranca únicamente el cilindro trasero, no así el de adelante. Habrás pasado ese problema? Ayuda!
Are the buel cams a good choice for a stock or 10:1 compression xl1200?
The answer to that question depends entirely on what year and model the Buell cams came from and what year the XL1200 is.
“Cams go in 1-2-3-4.”
Proceeds to install cams 1-3-4-2
When he says 1-2-3-4, he's referring to the positions of the cam. They are numbered 1-2-3-4 going from the rear to the front. You don't install them in that order though, because the number 2 cam cannot be installed until the number 1 and 3 are installed.
I don’t t care what my doctor says…the hand makes for a great hammer.
In a 04 and later sportster do you need to machine the lifter bosses ?
The need for cam box clearancing, or lack thereof, depends primarily on what cams you're installing. Some cams drop right in. Some cams need major clearancing. And in between those two extremes, there are cams that may or may not go right in, depending on the casting shift of the specific cases used, and also how deep the factory pressed the pinon race into the case half.
But before you go choosing cams based on whether or not they'll need cam box clearancing, realize that depending on your build (specifically how your heads are prepared), that additional lift you can get by clearancing the cam box might be really important to achieving your power goals. And clearancing is not hard to do, read this for more information: www.hammerperf.com/ttxlcaminstall.shtml#lobeswing . I would not let it deter you from running the correct cams for your application. It's just not that hard to do.
What's the cost for that rebuild hammer?
Well, the owner of the bike probably wouldn't appreciate us revealing that publicly. But if you're considering a build, contact us using this form and we'll put together a quote: www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml#salesform
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE sorry I should have said a rough idea of what that cost. But cool thanks