What drives me nuts is WHY Alienware don’t fit proper fans to control temps. I don’t want to buy a computer which it seems you have to work on to make it work properly!
This is not a good comparison. Of course you are gonna get lower decibels if Noctua Fans are running at 2000 rpm and stock Alienware Fans runs at 4000 rpm. If you setup all the stock fans at 50% then you will see that there is absolutely not difference between Noctua and Dell's Fans. Something to consider when buying. I would just stay on the stock fan and use command center to set the desired RPM in order for the decibel levels not to go to high. Thanks,
I changed out the fans in my R5, and changed the thermal paste, and my PC is waaayyyy quieter. Even at 100%. First time I booted up my cpu was getting HOT, but I redid the thermal paste and now it's cooler then the stock setup. The GPU is a lot cooler.
This is an excellent video, especially when you talk about the % fan speed, thank you. I have an r12 in which both stock fans have a max speed of 4000rpm. And people seem to not realize how that affects the ACC software. They're basically just repurposed server fans. Not a bad thing, but they get loud. I replaced every fan in it with noctuas that have max speed of 2000rpm, and it runs way cooler and quieter even at max rpms, which is really nice.
to follow on this. i will say the stock fan on the radiator is actually a very good fan. it will lack on the noise profile since it is a single fan trying to push the heat out of a modern CPU (which is a big task to ask of any single fan, especially on a 120mm rad). I replaced mine with 2 noctua nf12 x 25s. I saw little difference in performance, but a decent benefit on noise, but that may be an apples to oranges comparison
Hnnn I really appreciate your insights. I might keep the stock fan (to avoid excessive work) and blow dust the radiator if that would be effective. I heard the 120mm stock radiator fan is actually thicker than 25 mm?
@@JSyntax Yes. The one they install on the 120mm rad is quite a bit thicker than a standard fan. Almost 2x thicker in terms of the fan frame depth. on my unit, its a nidec server fan basically. Super deep frame so the blade depth is thicc af. good for pressure and air flow. It does get loud but thats mostly because it simply CAN push air, not necessarily because its loud by nature.
@@joelstamand3495 I replaced both fans on my Aurora R10 with Noctua fans. The one Noctua (2000prm) fan is unfortunately not enough for the CPU water cooling. In addition, I cannot control the fans via ACC.
you can actually do a push/pull configuration with the radiator fan up top and it makes a HUGE difference in temp. It's not that difficult to remove and upgrade. I used 2 Corsair 120mm fans for that upgrade
i want to do this so bad but if you do, your warranty most likely will get voided. Ive had to use my warranty one in the past, they had to replace the cpu and cooler.
@@paradisepicks. Any time you modify the original you will void the warranty. But these are top tier products used so likely you would not use the warranty anyways.
I also put a Noctua NF-A8 5V PWM, Premium Quiet Fan with USB Power Adaptor Cable, 4-Pin, 5V Version (80mm, Brown) in the back. It can be placed inside or out right under the gpu, depending what flow you want I guess. Pop out the plates, little bit of double sided tape...too easy. It fits perfectly and cooled my 3070 by about 4c. I use usb power as its a 5v and again, too easy. Also if using it as an intake, pick yourself up a 80mm fan filter at the same time ; )
Nice video. I have the same system, to clean out the system efficiently, I tied the fans down and used a leafblower out back to blow the hell out of the system, yes it's backwoods McGuyver but it workes like a charm. I also moved my SSD to the top section, removed the annoying cage on the bottom and moved my 3070 to the lower slot, which gave it much better breathing space. I'm still using it today, it's been a great system, and I feel the 3070 on the bottom slot has helped keep it much cooler.
I have an R10 with the liquid cooled case it wasn’t that bad I did the 2pack Corsair ml120 off Amazon for like $35 it’s just the two plugs for the cpu and the fan and take out one heat sink and it’s pretty straightforward no issues you need to pull off the top that’s a little stiff but it snaps back on nothing broke and runs fine a lot quieter than stock fan at max
Hi, good video too, thanks for make it, I have an r10 and consider changing the fans as well, but investigating the specifications of the oem delta fan, they have a much higher static pressure than any noctua or corsair of the retail market, for example, the oem fan of the radiator have 15.9mm / h20 of static pressure , the noctua with 2.64mm / h2o, just can't match it, so before i buy the noctua..., i want ask is better temps with noctua?? thanks in advance
Good job man,i have r15 ryzen 9 7900x and rtx4080,what you recomandation fan lian li? Dimension and cfm 🎉 and maybe posibile mount fan's push -pull to radiator aio cpu ?
I have a R6 and I replaced the front fan with a noctua and the radiator fan with a noctua as well. The stock fans were too damn loud but they did move a lot of air. I keep my fans at 90% fixed in command center and it’s still super quiet (noctua is great that way). I got a 2060super back in November when they were dirt cheap had a 1080 in it originally. Lateral move I know but I wanted to see what ray tracing was all about.
So I purchased 4 noctua NF-A12x25 PWM's put them all in only to get fail to recognize them by the dell alienware aurora r7, saw on another guy's video and he found only the cheaper noctua NF-P12 redux will be recognized to work what a waste of money, i put back 2 dell fans on the top watercooler one on the top of the rad and one under the rad fit is fine and it doubles the air movement for cpu cooling and the 2 front fans will have to be replaced with the noctua NF-P12 redux the bottom front and where there was a old hard drive 3.5 i removed it and put a fan ,so they run but not recognized and making use of control speed so I'll get the noctua NF-P12 redux for that.
Definitely don't do this!! there isn't a fan that can compete against the stock fans there beasts! I genuinely don't believe your results of a lower gpu temps unless you used afterburner to get better results
So for a long time I had can dusters. They always seemed to not work well after a few uses even when it was almost new. So instead I got a Metro Vacuum ED500 Duster 120 volt. This takes a vacuum motor and puts it in reverse to make an extremely powerful gust of Air. I have not had any issue with it since i bought it a few years ago.
Gonna have to do this! Just used your link to buy this, also saw your cleaning video XD keep up the great work. Thanks for the fan curve also. If only changing the top fan would be as easy too T_T
I have a r11 and my awcc says it only goes up 35% even after I mess with the awcc so idk if pc already knows that the fan cant go any higher than 35% or something else
Very good video. I changed all of my fans in the case, but then also watercooled the system with a huge external radiator (9x120mm fans). Temps are obviously a lot better now, but it all started due to the poor airflow of the case
it's really not too much work but the fan dell has on the radiator is actually thicker and if its CFM ratings on it are true at all it might be better then some upgrades. I didn't do a comparison. although i also upgraded the intake fan first as it is a must. Also if you have an i9 in any of these and aren't doing anything super CPU intensive. I suggest turning off hyperthreading and just running it at base clock. The Alienware over clock sucks in my opinion.
The EK-Furious Meltemi 120 (120mm x 38mm) is a match for the OEM CPU radiator fan. It flows 120CFM up to 7.1mm H2O SP. Its not exactly quiet at 61dBA, but that's at wide open (3500RPM). Don't know yet if there will be issues with the BIOS.
I set my fan curves and fixes identical to the ones in the video and my fans are WAY louder than before, is anyone else having this issue because every comment says it's quieter than the original fans?
I have an R-10 and my radiator looked very similar to yours I just got a can of air duster with the straw on it and blew it all out. I did it while I was repasting my 5900x which I have to say the old OE thermal paste was a horrible job. I don't think I would have changed the fans because I like how high I can turn them. I would like to add a second fan. If you don't want that stock... lol I'll take it
For the top radiator fan, you would need to remove the AIO and reapply thermal paste, but that is a fairly simple process. The only fan that seems to be fully compatible and won't throw a BIOS error is the Corsair ML120 Pro. However, if you're going to do that I would recommend replacing the entire unit with a new AIO. The Corsair Hydro H60 can be installed without having to take out the motherboard to add a backplate, so it requires the least amount of work. Did this in my R7 and it runs much cooler and quieter. Hope this helps!
Physically, the EK-Furious Meltemi 120 (120mm x 38mm) is a much better match for the OEM CPU radiator fan. It flows 120CFM up to 7.1mm H2O SP. Its not exactly quiet at 61dBA, but that's at wide open (3500RPM). I've got one, but haven't installed it. Don't know if there will be issues with the BIOS.
Do you have the ML120 PRO with LED or just the regular? I have the RGB elite and it is throwing a code... all i can seem to find is the PRos with LED and dont want to purchase just to have the same issue. Also can you change your fan speed past 45% in AWCC, mine maxes out at 45% for what ever reason.
I modded my R11 on advice from I got from youtube. I bought 4 Corsair ML120 Pro's. They're supposedly good for high flow and static pressure and they don't trigger a bios error. I installed one at the stock intake location like you did, moved the HDD to the bottom location and installed a second intake fan is its place using double sided tape. And put two ML120 Pro's in a push/pull arrangement on the radiator. I didn't mess with fan curves and temps dropped and it's nearly silent at idle. These mods will work for the R7 too.
Lord, I'd love to pick your brain as I am about to do the same thing with the same fans same PC .... Did you take off the cpu or can I just add to the top push/pull? I feel good with the two front fans but how did you mount the HDD at the bottom cause it looks tight and I have another ssd on a M.2 NVME to PCIe 4.0 x4 adapter? Thanks for any help/clarification you could offer!
@@christophertucker722 G'day Chris. This video was one that helped me th-cam.com/video/fkVNcTXcpAo/w-d-xo.html The 3.5" HDD bay unscrews from the upper spot and can be installed in place of the 2.5" drive bays at the bottom. Hope that helps.
@@Tesseus I can't say how much a second intake fan helps because I did all of the fan swap in one go. I can blow vape at the front of the case and it gets sucked at that spot.
I have 2 nf-f12 industrials 3000 RPM on my R7 8700k. One for intake and one on a Corsair H80i V2 rad. There is no solving the thermals on this pre-built and have reasonable noise levels. My GPU is a dell 3070 RTX. I'm just going to game with it and enjoy it for now, done working on it. Expected more out of the corsair, what with the larger pump, rad and thicker hoses, but it was like putting lipstick on a pig.
WARNING: Please make sure to disable "Always Ready Mode" in Alienware Control Center so that your fans operate while your away (e.g. casual GPU mining). www.reddit.com/r/Alienware/comments/bf7prm/consider_turning_off_always_ready_mode_if_you/ If you want my fan curve profile for Aurora Alienware, you can import this .atp file in AWCC (tested on R7) pastebin.com/4asiiVjK
Hi, excellent video on how to remove the front fan. I ordered the better fan overnight and switched it out in 1 day. I'm getting 56 celsius on my GPU while mining now. For me, it was easier to keep the GPU in place. I couldn't figure out how to get it off the board. Those rubber edges kind of got stuck in the fan case. I think cause the case got bent from pulling it out.
Just pasting this from another video I posted into: You may disagree but I am personally not bothered at all by the Alienware stock fans. I got a liquid cooled Ryzen 5900x and a RTX 3080 in the R10 and with some simple settings with AWCC I can use the computer just fine for normal things and it is basically silent (thermal set to Quiet and power set to Power Save) . When I play a game I set it to switch automatically to Performance Mode and yes, that's when the fans become a bit noisy but 1) I use headphones when I play and 2) I know that AWCC is using the fans properly. GPU does not go above 75C (in July, UK) and the CPU does not go above 60C. The fans on the Alienware r10 can reach 4000rpm so going for slower fans and let AWCC manage them without tweaking the profiles properly will just let them go even slower. As AWCC is set for 4000rpm fans, 50% of it is 2000rpm. Replacing them with 1700rpm fans will mean that 50% of it is 850rpm and that is not necessarily good. Less noise, yes, but with this case having poor airflow is bad. That's why I will ONLY add an additional Noctua Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM (yes, industrial) in the HDD slot, leaving the stock fans where they are. This fan is not the quietest, but it is the nearest I can get in terms of rpm. I looked for other 4000rpm fans but they are just not made for desktops (like the Dell stock ones) so they will add a lot of noise. Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM is instead perfect for this. I feel there is a lack of airflow on the top side (which dell fixed on the new Aurora models), so this justifies adding this fan. I may, if needed, add an additional fan to the top radiator as push pull solution, but the CPU temps are just fine now so it is not a priority.
before i did a case swap on my Alienware r10 Aurora Ryzen edition, that is what i did on my machine. Push pull on the rad and 2 fans to the front of the machine using Noctua. worked great, very quiet and it did cool the machine down really nicely until i upgraded the CPU to Ryzen 9 5950x and the rtx 3080. That is when things got a little to hot in there. in the tower, the temp on idle was around 60-70 deg C for the CPU and the gpu "forgot the temp" but it was always hot. Just did a Case swap on it last week end and the Alienware R10 is running way better than i thought. on idle at around 41 deg C for the cpu and gpu at around 31. stress test? CPU at 61 Deg C and gpu at a steady 82 deg C. Playing video games is great as it no longer over heats. Specs of my new A-LI "ya i gave it a name on my build" LOL is Ryzen 9 5950X, gpu rtx 3080, 64 gig of ram with 9 lian Li fans "daisy chain" usb 3 Pcie card header to use the usb3/usb c port at the front of the tower. Pci card with 1tb Nvme m2 card running linux and a 2tb nvme m2 card running windows 10 and a new AIO from lian li. Case swap is totally do-able and was fairly easy to do. the only cons on this build is that the fans has a little hum when it comes to noise level, but it is never loud and never when into high rpm.
Update, I got the fan and had problems tryna get the command center but I got it and temps dropped by 8-15 Celsius and jus wanna thank you again. Rlly helped
I did change bottom fan with the Corsair 120mm pro as well. Not an improvement. Yes its much more quiet but the AWCC by giving the fan 100% Offset only goes up to max 55% fan workload. What about your maximum fan speed?
thank you so much for this vid I rlly wish u kno how much I appreciate this every vid I came across did not help smh but this this explain way more and actually showed what I needed jus ordered the fan finna swap soon :)
What is the R10+ fan? I bought an R10 in Feb, had issues and am getting an upgraded replacement which includes a 1000w liquid cooled lunar light case in a few weeks, would that be r10+?
I have an R11 and was able to remove the top panel to completely remove dust from the cooler fan. I too am nervous about taking off the cooler to replace the fans so did as you have and just.upgraded the front fan.
Good video - but I have a question. Set aside the fact that the stock fan is loud for a second. If the stock fan is capable of higher CFM air flow, how is it not more effective at cooling? You would need a comparable fan adjustment curve, but if the system starts throwing or max heat, why wouldn’t the stock fan (running at 150 CFM) be better than the Noctua’s max at ~90 CFM ??
@Steve The difference is in the fan type. The stock fan is a normal "Air Flow" (AF) fan. It's great at moving air with no resistance. However, put some crap in the way, and the air no longer moves freely, and - BAM. It caves, and air flow drops dramatically. The F12 / A12 fans are "Static Pressure" (SP) fans. They don't move as much air in a free flow situation, but they don't slow as much as back pressure increases. That is, to a point. After static pressure reaches 2.6mm H2O (2.3mm H2O for the A-12), the fan's flow will start to fall off. For these reasons, I settled on the EK-Furious Vardar EVO120. It flows 107CFM up to a SP of 5.8mm H2O, at a livable noise level of 42dBA wide open (3000RPM). FWIW, I also got a EK-Furious Meltemi 120 (120mm x 38mm) to replace my CPU radiator fan. It flows 120CFM up to 7.1mm H2O SP. Its not exactly quiet at 61dBA, but that's at wide open (3500RPM).
just using a oculus quest 2 with link in general won't run well, its better to get a pcvr headset as the display port connection makes it run better, i have a r10 with a 3080, and beat saber running above 72hz refresh rate stutters with oculus link which is stupid for a 3080
Just 3 days ago i fully tore apart my aurora r8, ive never been so stressed out while working on a pc lol, i got the top radiator out by removing the ram then gpu and then the water cooling for the cpu and then unplugging everything off the motherboard. once you get the radiator out id take the whole fan/radiator assembly apart and clean it that way.
I have replace my R12 front fan with noctua fan. But windows restart will boot into Pre-Boot System performance check first and say the fan failed to respond correctly. I check the new front fan is working. any idea how to skip this issue?
LIFE SAVER ! I have an R8 and the front fan is SO LOUD when im gaming playing world of warcraft , thank you for this ! How loud is it compared to the stock front fan? is it noticeably quitter under load playing a game ?
I made the fan change using three Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM, added the third as a pull on the CPU water cooler - they worked great until the BIOS 1.05 forced update the BIOS started a fan test on every startup or restart - I could not find a way to turn it off so I had to put the Dell fans back - I wound up gutting a 6 month old R11 with a i9-10900KF, 64gb ram, 2th NVMe SSD, RTX-2080Ti and putting everything in a new case and mobo and pwr Supply ( I did not find the hidden 4 pin mobo power connector until the new PC was built and I was stripping the R11 for the recycle bin - it picked up with the trash yesterday and I now had a great PC and no more Dells ever again after at least 15 years - PS - My R1 was so hot I felt it was a fire hazard, no joke or exaggeration - all cores were hitting 98c before shutting down and PC had to be turned off at least 5 min before you could touch GPU or PSU and not get burnt -
Is there any differince between the heavy duty Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-2000 and the Noctua NF-F12 PWM, Premium Quiet? Also is there a easy way to remove the front fan?
How do you figure out the curve for your fans? I just replaced my Aurora R5's fans my top and front with a Noctua NF-P12 redux (1700 RPM) and my CPU Fan with a Noctua NF-A8 PWM (2200 RPM). The reason I'm asking is because if I leave it on Auto my graphics card will heat up quite a bit when I play any game that is graphic intensive.
How did you get the errors to stop throwing when booting up? I changed out both my front and top fans with Noctua NF-F12 PWM, which are working and accurately following my custom fan curves, but it runs a “SupportAssist Pre-Boot System Performance Check” that always has a critical error saying that the top and front fan aren’t responding correctly. I get this error unless the OEM fans are connected, Dell confirmed this and said that there no way to get around the errors other than switching back to the OEM fans. Thoughts?
@@JSyntax I have the stock Alienware AIO, I just changed out the fan attached to it. It’s reading the same error on both the top and the front fans that I changed. Upon further digging, it looks like this happens specifically with the Aurora R11 (not sure about the 12) because the motherboard runs different firmware than the R10. Incredibly frustrating, but I don’t need to use my system remotely, so hitting ESC a few times when booting up isn’t a huge deal for the better thermals and significant reduction of noise. I will probably case swap when I have an extra $400-$500 for a new motherboard, psu, and case, bummer that that’s the only real solution as I’ve also been in contact with Dell and there’s no way to turn off the pre-boot check.
@@JSyntax I tried using the awcc and my top fan would slow down and the front would spkie up. What other application can I use instead of the awcc. And also when I made a new profile for noctua to push more air the top would slow down and cpu temp would go up
My R7 is 4 years now. Do you have problem with cpu water cooling yet? I plan to change to air cool b/c water not good for long run and a lot of plug around it.
my exp and friends . It has very same life time but liquid is leak able. The normal fan just not spin or burn. I am just a panic guy. I not like water around electric wire.
Just did the same upgrade following your advices, thanks a lot ! I also used the same settings in the Alienware control manager, my UI Is different (it's the latest version) Hope It doesnt metter, if something has changes please let me know
Finding similar issues on my new Alienware R10 Ryzen edition w/ RTX 3080. Running games like Cyberpunk 2077 make my system sound like a jet engine. Will consider changing fan thanks
This may sound wild but I watched yours and many other videos prior before doing my fan swaps. Installed 4 noctua fans on my r10 and used two for the top mount. Being extremely careful, I managed to remove the radiator without unbolting the pump and securing it back inside the chassis without damaging the heat sinks as well. It is possible but pins and needles the whole job. Patience and steady hands definitely recommended, but it is possible.
i changed both fans with the noctua fans and they're way better... but the fans no longer EVER change speeds. no matter how much load / hot the computer gets, the fans will never speed up or slow down and I cant manually change them in the alienware app. any ideas?
were there any compatibility issue? I am going to buy the Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM for my Aurora R11. I don't want to buy fans that wont work. Or should i get corsair ml 120 pro?
i will do that in the near future to my r10. will replace the stock front fan with a noctua, and add a second noctua above it where the r10 has its 3.5" hard drive bay... lets see if that does anything good.
I found another one of your vids so to clean the radiator i used a tooth brush and a rat tail brush and lots of patience I am considering swaping out the stock liquid cooler for the corsair hs 60 si i can do the radiator in push pull it will supposedly fit within the bracket as the radiator is of a thinner profile you gave me the idea since the noctua fan comes with that lil splitter i figure why not try the corsair ml pro in push pull to give it a stronger exhaust
Did you ever do this? Specification data rates the dell liquid cooler at 95W TDP, and the H60 at 80W. I'm curious as to what your observed temp differences were.
@@501Bravo I never needed to the original pump is still working but after doing the fan swap the temps dropped significantly about 15c lower rpm rarely hits 66 at full load all cores oced
Was waiting for your review of the GW4 and you have not disappointed! As I am struggling to get much more than two full days of use without recharging from my TWP3 despite the lesser demand it makes on its battery when compared with the GW4, moving to the GW4 (while also ignoring its significant drawbacks that you point out it has if you are not a Samsung phone user), would not make sense for me. I guess we have to decide whether - as with the Apple Watch - we accept daily charging as the price to be paid for a beautiful watch packed full of slick features. The GW4 as shown by you certainly looks super cool but even if you dismiss your first fatal flaw, non-Samsung phone users are left with your second fatal flaw. Thanks as ever for your excellent review. Overall then, would you recommend the TWP3 for most users over the GW4?
@@JSyntax apologies - I seem to have posted my comment on your Galaxy Watch 4 review against a very different review of yours! I’d be interested in knowing how you get a good three days of battery usage out of your TWP3. I sleep with mine and switch airplane and cinema mode on when I am sleeping. I notice significant battery drain when using it to track my workouts but can always put it on to charge afterwards. Otherwise, I have it on the recommended 5 mins display setting and don’t have notifications automatically appear on the watch face. I use a simple largely black watch face.
@@derevu2072 I'm happy. I learned how to install a liquid cooler, push/pull configuration when I've NEVER opened a computer. My temps are 46C-52C under load and fans are quietly running at 27% (3)!
I gotta say I must have hit the lottery with my r10. I’ve had no heat issues for cpu or gpu. 5600x and RX 6800 XT. I watched a ton of videos like this leading up to mine being delivered and I nearly cancelled the order thinking I’d be plagued by noise and heat. It’s been no trouble at all.
Hey mate you can take out the top fan and radiator easy. Just unscrew the radiator from the top and 2 screws from the inside and it will slide right out. Then you can change the fan or the whole radiator with a Cosair H60 liquid cooling if you want.
I know little about computers but I just bought an Aurora 12. I added a Corsair M60 water cooling fan and it was pretty simple. The toughest part was getting the fan bracket that holds the fan (it's a big, boxy thing) over the motherboard rivets and components. The trick is to take out the DDR's (and you'll have to remove your pump), work most of the case/bracket outward from the rear of the computer case, slowly shimmy it down and towards the rear. Once it's mostly free you're going to have to fight with getting the case/bracket over the DDR locks. I wound up pulling outwards on the computer case plastics a bit. Same thing in reverse to re-install. If I can do it, anyone can!!!
You shouldn't have to immediately replace the fans on a PC that costs thousands of dollars. I will never buy from Alienware again. My R13 was the worst PC that I've ever owned. It crashed 20 times in two days. The parts that they used are some of the worst that I've ever seen, especially the RAM and the power supply. The 3080 GPU was horrible as well. I really wanted to like my R13, but I just couldn't. I returned it and will take my money elsewhere.
you can change the fans in this but it will only make the overheating problem more prevalent.... maybe try be queit! silend wings 4 pro instead at least for their higher throughput
![[Full Episode] The Restaurant War Thailand ศึกพ่อค้าซ่าแม่ค้าแซ่บ Episode 2 | 29 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/r3lfLNH6Ke4/mqdefault.jpg)
What drives me nuts is WHY Alienware don’t fit proper fans to control temps. I don’t want to buy a computer which it seems you have to work on to make it work properly!
This is not a good comparison. Of course you are gonna get lower decibels if Noctua Fans are running at 2000 rpm and stock Alienware Fans runs at 4000 rpm. If you setup all the stock fans at 50% then you will see that there is absolutely not difference between Noctua and Dell's Fans.
Something to consider when buying. I would just stay on the stock fan and use command center to set the desired RPM in order for the decibel levels not to go to high.
Thanks,
The noxtua fan is much lower CFM why would you go from 150CFM to 60?
I changed out the fans in my R5, and changed the thermal paste, and my PC is waaayyyy quieter. Even at 100%. First time I booted up my cpu was getting HOT, but I redid the thermal paste and now it's cooler then the stock setup. The GPU is a lot cooler.
This is an excellent video, especially when you talk about the % fan speed, thank you. I have an r12 in which both stock fans have a max speed of 4000rpm. And people seem to not realize how that affects the ACC software. They're basically just repurposed server fans. Not a bad thing, but they get loud. I replaced every fan in it with noctuas that have max speed of 2000rpm, and it runs way cooler and quieter even at max rpms, which is really nice.
to follow on this. i will say the stock fan on the radiator is actually a very good fan. it will lack on the noise profile since it is a single fan trying to push the heat out of a modern CPU (which is a big task to ask of any single fan, especially on a 120mm rad). I replaced mine with 2 noctua nf12 x 25s. I saw little difference in performance, but a decent benefit on noise, but that may be an apples to oranges comparison
Hnnn I really appreciate your insights. I might keep the stock fan (to avoid excessive work) and blow dust the radiator if that would be effective. I heard the 120mm stock radiator fan is actually thicker than 25 mm?
@@JSyntax Yes. The one they install on the 120mm rad is quite a bit thicker than a standard fan. Almost 2x thicker in terms of the fan frame depth. on my unit, its a nidec server fan basically. Super deep frame so the blade depth is thicc af. good for pressure and air flow. It does get loud but thats mostly because it simply CAN push air, not necessarily because its loud by nature.
@@joelstamand3495 I replaced both fans on my Aurora R10 with Noctua fans. The one Noctua (2000prm) fan is unfortunately not enough for the CPU water cooling. In addition, I cannot control the fans via ACC.
@@joelstamand3495 ** It seems to me as if you either have to use water cooling with several fans or a fan with at least 4000rpm.
The inside of that case looks like a real horror show. I wouldn't touch one of these with a 100 foot pole.
you can actually do a push/pull configuration with the radiator fan up top and it makes a HUGE difference in temp. It's not that difficult to remove and upgrade. I used 2 Corsair 120mm fans for that upgrade
i want to do this so bad but if you do, your warranty most likely will get voided. Ive had to use my warranty one in the past, they had to replace the cpu and cooler.
@@paradisepicks. Any time you modify the original you will void the warranty. But these are top tier products used so likely you would not use the warranty anyways.
@@jjburda I’ve had to use the warrenty before, cpu wasn’t working right 😐
I also put a Noctua NF-A8 5V PWM, Premium Quiet Fan with USB Power Adaptor Cable, 4-Pin, 5V Version (80mm, Brown) in the back. It can be placed inside or out right under the gpu, depending what flow you want I guess. Pop out the plates, little bit of double sided tape...too easy. It fits perfectly and cooled my 3070 by about 4c. I use usb power as its a 5v and again, too easy. Also if using it as an intake, pick yourself up a 80mm fan filter at the same time ; )
I love your idea! Can you share pics please?
@@JSyntax imgur.com/a/LUkAJj3
Nice video. I have the same system, to clean out the system efficiently, I tied the fans down and used a leafblower out back to blow the hell out of the system, yes it's backwoods McGuyver but it workes like a charm. I also moved my SSD to the top section, removed the annoying cage on the bottom and moved my 3070 to the lower slot, which gave it much better breathing space. I'm still using it today, it's been a great system, and I feel the 3070 on the bottom slot has helped keep it much cooler.
A leaf blower 🤣🤣🤣
Also will this fix my R7s noise issue? It sounds like an airplane right now lol
Man I got an aurora r12 and it sounds like a shopvac
If the fan fits, yes. Dell sold these computers with unacceptable fans / cooling. Even the R10 still suffers from horrible cooling
I have an R10 with the liquid cooled case it wasn’t that bad I did the 2pack Corsair ml120 off Amazon for like $35 it’s just the two plugs for the cpu and the fan and take out one heat sink and it’s pretty straightforward no issues you need to pull off the top that’s a little stiff but it snaps back on nothing broke and runs fine a lot quieter than stock fan at max
Any reduction in temps?
Just swapped out the Dell fan for the Noctua A12 fan on my R10 Ryzen. Thanks bruh! Next... add more artic to the heat sink on GPU!
Hi, good video too, thanks for make it, I have an r10 and consider changing the fans as well, but investigating the specifications of the oem delta fan, they have a much higher static pressure than any noctua or corsair of the retail market, for example, the oem fan of the radiator have 15.9mm / h20 of static pressure , the noctua with 2.64mm / h2o, just can't match it, so before i buy the noctua..., i want ask is better temps with noctua?? thanks in advance
Good job man,i have r15 ryzen 9 7900x and rtx4080,what you recomandation fan lian li? Dimension and cfm 🎉 and maybe posibile mount fan's push -pull to radiator aio cpu ?
Noctua always outlasts competitor fans.
I have a R6 and I replaced the front fan with a noctua and the radiator fan with a noctua as well. The stock fans were too damn loud but they did move a lot of air. I keep my fans at 90% fixed in command center and it’s still super quiet (noctua is great that way). I got a 2060super back in November when they were dirt cheap had a 1080 in it originally. Lateral move I know but I wanted to see what ray tracing was all about.
nice, did u get the noctua a12?
So I purchased 4 noctua NF-A12x25 PWM's put them all in only to get fail to recognize them by the dell alienware aurora r7, saw on another guy's video and he found only the cheaper noctua NF-P12 redux will be recognized to work what a waste of money, i put back 2 dell fans on the top watercooler one on the top of the rad and one under the rad fit is fine and it doubles the air movement for cpu cooling and the 2 front fans will have to be replaced with the noctua NF-P12 redux the bottom front and where there was a old hard drive 3.5 i removed it and put a fan ,so they run but not recognized and making use of control speed so I'll get the noctua NF-P12 redux for that.
Is it needed to upgrade fans if I'm going to install a 3070 fe like you did in the aurora r7?
Definitely don't do this!! there isn't a fan that can compete against the stock fans there beasts! I genuinely don't believe your results of a lower gpu temps unless you used afterburner to get better results
So for a long time I had can dusters. They always seemed to not work well after a few uses even when it was almost new. So instead I got a Metro Vacuum ED500 Duster 120 volt. This takes a vacuum motor and puts it in reverse to make an extremely powerful gust of Air. I have not had any issue with it since i bought it a few years ago.
Damn it's expensive
@@JSyntax your not wrong, but you never need to buy canned air again.
Gonna have to do this! Just used your link to buy this, also saw your cleaning video XD keep up the great work. Thanks for the fan curve also.
If only changing the top fan would be as easy too T_T
Nice! I look forward to it
I have a r11 and my awcc says it only goes up 35% even after I mess with the awcc so idk if pc already knows that the fan cant go any higher than 35% or something else
I changed my front fan just as you did. But it won’t spin at all😢. It’s plugged in already
The performance of the original dell fan is better than F12 or a pirate ship, but the disadvantage is noisy
Very good video. I changed all of my fans in the case, but then also watercooled the system with a huge external radiator (9x120mm fans). Temps are obviously a lot better now, but it all started due to the poor airflow of the case
Thank you! I'd love to see how you did that cpu cooler upgrade!
I’d love if you messaged me on how you performed your upgrade!
bro do u have clip or video how u did it?
it's really not too much work but the fan dell has on the radiator is actually thicker and if its CFM ratings on it are true at all it might be better then some upgrades. I didn't do a comparison. although i also upgraded the intake fan first as it is a must. Also if you have an i9 in any of these and aren't doing anything super CPU intensive. I suggest turning off hyperthreading and just running it at base clock. The Alienware over clock sucks in my opinion.
It's unstable, agreed!
The EK-Furious Meltemi 120 (120mm x 38mm) is a match for the OEM CPU radiator fan.
It flows 120CFM up to 7.1mm H2O SP.
Its not exactly quiet at 61dBA, but that's at wide open (3500RPM).
Don't know yet if there will be issues with the BIOS.
8:44 It's been over a year, but I'm still waiting for you to replace that top fan hehe
I wish! Too hard
Can i just use the NF 12x25 pwm for my exhaust fan or is that just for the radiator?
!???
How many times did he say “flan” instead of fan hahah
I set my fan curves and fixes identical to the ones in the video and my fans are WAY louder than before, is anyone else having this issue because every comment says it's quieter than the original fans?
I have an R-10 and my radiator looked very similar to yours I just got a can of air duster with the straw on it and blew it all out. I did it while I was repasting my 5900x which I have to say the old OE thermal paste was a horrible job. I don't think I would have changed the fans because I like how high I can turn them. I would like to add a second fan. If you don't want that stock... lol I'll take it
For the top radiator fan, you would need to remove the AIO and reapply thermal paste, but that is a fairly simple process. The only fan that seems to be fully compatible and won't throw a BIOS error is the Corsair ML120 Pro.
However, if you're going to do that I would recommend replacing the entire unit with a new AIO. The Corsair Hydro H60 can be installed without having to take out the motherboard to add a backplate, so it requires the least amount of work. Did this in my R7 and it runs much cooler and quieter. Hope this helps!
Hnnnmm really?!
@@JSyntax Yes I did it for my one also the H60 20 degree lower now
The Hydro H60 has a rated TDP of 80W.
The Dell liquid cooling unit for the R5-R8 is rated for 95W.
The ratings say you're going backwards.
Physically, the EK-Furious Meltemi 120 (120mm x 38mm) is a much better match for the OEM CPU radiator fan.
It flows 120CFM up to 7.1mm H2O SP.
Its not exactly quiet at 61dBA, but that's at wide open (3500RPM).
I've got one, but haven't installed it. Don't know if there will be issues with the BIOS.
Do you have the ML120 PRO with LED or just the regular? I have the RGB elite and it is throwing a code... all i can seem to find is the PRos with LED and dont want to purchase just to have the same issue. Also can you change your fan speed past 45% in AWCC, mine maxes out at 45% for what ever reason.
I modded my R11 on advice from I got from youtube. I bought 4 Corsair ML120 Pro's. They're supposedly good for high flow and static pressure and they don't trigger a bios error. I installed one at the stock intake location like you did, moved the HDD to the bottom location and installed a second intake fan is its place using double sided tape. And put two ML120 Pro's in a push/pull arrangement on the radiator. I didn't mess with fan curves and temps dropped and it's nearly silent at idle. These mods will work for the R7 too.
Lord,
I'd love to pick your brain as I am about to do the same thing with the same fans same PC ....
Did you take off the cpu or can I just add to the top push/pull? I feel good with the two front fans but how did you mount the HDD at the bottom cause it looks tight and I have another ssd on a M.2 NVME to PCIe 4.0 x4 adapter? Thanks for any help/clarification you could offer!
@@christophertucker722 G'day Chris. This video was one that helped me
th-cam.com/video/fkVNcTXcpAo/w-d-xo.html
The 3.5" HDD bay unscrews from the upper spot and can be installed in place of the 2.5" drive bays at the bottom.
Hope that helps.
@@lordhumungous7908 much love and thanks!
how much did a 2nd intake help?
@@Tesseus I can't say how much a second intake fan helps because I did all of the fan swap in one go. I can blow vape at the front of the case and it gets sucked at that spot.
I have 2 nf-f12 industrials 3000 RPM on my R7 8700k. One for intake and one on a Corsair H80i V2 rad. There is no solving the thermals on this pre-built and have reasonable noise levels. My GPU is a dell 3070 RTX. I'm just going to game with it and enjoy it for now, done working on it. Expected more out of the corsair, what with the larger pump, rad and thicker hoses, but it was like putting lipstick on a pig.
WARNING: Please make sure to disable "Always Ready Mode" in Alienware Control Center so that your fans operate while your away (e.g. casual GPU mining). www.reddit.com/r/Alienware/comments/bf7prm/consider_turning_off_always_ready_mode_if_you/
If you want my fan curve profile for Aurora Alienware, you can import this .atp file in AWCC (tested on R7) pastebin.com/4asiiVjK
Great video. Did u have any issues with the Alienware command center while booting?
no issues! h
Hi, excellent video on how to remove the front fan. I ordered the better fan overnight and switched it out in 1 day. I'm getting 56 celsius on my GPU while mining now. For me, it was easier to keep the GPU in place. I couldn't figure out how to get it off the board. Those rubber edges kind of got stuck in the fan case. I think cause the case got bent from pulling it out.
Awesome to hear Happy mining
Just pasting this from another video I posted into:
You may disagree but I am personally not bothered at all by the Alienware stock fans. I got a liquid cooled Ryzen 5900x and a RTX 3080 in the R10 and with some simple settings with AWCC I can use the computer just fine for normal things and it is basically silent (thermal set to Quiet and power set to Power Save) . When I play a game I set it to switch automatically to Performance Mode and yes, that's when the fans become a bit noisy but 1) I use headphones when I play and 2) I know that AWCC is using the fans properly. GPU does not go above 75C (in July, UK) and the CPU does not go above 60C.
The fans on the Alienware r10 can reach 4000rpm so going for slower fans and let AWCC manage them without tweaking the profiles properly will just let them go even slower. As AWCC is set for 4000rpm fans, 50% of it is 2000rpm. Replacing them with 1700rpm fans will mean that 50% of it is 850rpm and that is not necessarily good. Less noise, yes, but with this case having poor airflow is bad.
That's why I will ONLY add an additional Noctua Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM (yes, industrial) in the HDD slot, leaving the stock fans where they are. This fan is not the quietest, but it is the nearest I can get in terms of rpm. I looked for other 4000rpm fans but they are just not made for desktops (like the Dell stock ones) so they will add a lot of noise. Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM is instead perfect for this. I feel there is a lack of airflow on the top side (which dell fixed on the new Aurora models), so this justifies adding this fan.
I may, if needed, add an additional fan to the top radiator as push pull solution, but the CPU temps are just fine now so it is not a priority.
What cpu are u using ?
before i did a case swap on my Alienware r10 Aurora Ryzen edition, that is what i did on my machine. Push pull on the rad and 2 fans to the front of the machine using Noctua. worked great, very quiet and it did cool the machine down really nicely until i upgraded the CPU to Ryzen 9 5950x and the rtx 3080. That is when things got a little to hot in there. in the tower, the temp on idle was around 60-70 deg C for the CPU and the gpu "forgot the temp" but it was always hot. Just did a Case swap on it last week end and the Alienware R10 is running way better than i thought. on idle at around 41 deg C for the cpu and gpu at around 31. stress test? CPU at 61 Deg C and gpu at a steady 82 deg C. Playing video games is great as it no longer over heats. Specs of my new A-LI "ya i gave it a name on my build" LOL is Ryzen 9 5950X, gpu rtx 3080, 64 gig of ram with 9 lian Li fans "daisy chain" usb 3 Pcie card header to use the usb3/usb c port at the front of the tower. Pci card with 1tb Nvme m2 card running linux and a 2tb nvme m2 card running windows 10 and a new AIO from lian li. Case swap is totally do-able and was fairly easy to do. the only cons on this build is that the fans has a little hum when it comes to noise level, but it is never loud and never when into high rpm.
My dream is over my parents will not buy it to me
Haha
Update, I got the fan and had problems tryna get the command center but I got it and temps dropped by 8-15 Celsius and jus wanna thank you again. Rlly helped
Just replaced the front fan?
I did change bottom fan with the Corsair 120mm pro as well. Not an improvement. Yes its much more quiet but the AWCC by giving the fan 100% Offset only goes up to max 55% fan workload. What about your maximum fan speed?
This would also apply to the PRECISION 3630 MT's as they use the same internal chassis.
noctua has a higher RPM model I am looking at. The problem with OEM is that the fans are just noisy period. Clicky noises and what not.
thank you so much for this vid I rlly wish u kno how much I appreciate this every vid I came across did not help smh but this this explain way more and actually showed what I needed jus ordered the fan finna swap soon :)
What is the R10+ fan? I bought an R10 in Feb, had issues and am getting an upgraded replacement which includes a 1000w liquid cooled lunar light case in a few weeks, would that be r10+?
I have an R11 and was able to remove the top panel to completely remove dust from the cooler fan. I too am nervous about taking off the cooler to replace the fans so did as you have and just.upgraded the front fan.
i took it out without taking off aio cooler . used a mini screwdriver and a pair of needle nose plyers to turn it
cant wait for the g5 video! lol.
Dell is soooooo slow at shipping
Alienware is trash :)
Ouch
Somebody made a watercooled GPU modification to the R7 while keeping the watercooled stock CPU. Maybe worth investigating for a futur video
Good video - but I have a question.
Set aside the fact that the stock fan is loud for a second. If the stock fan is capable of higher CFM air flow, how is it not more effective at cooling?
You would need a comparable fan adjustment curve, but if the system starts throwing or max heat, why wouldn’t the stock fan (running at 150 CFM) be better than the Noctua’s max at ~90 CFM ??
It has a higher cfm but also higher rpm. Noctua pushes more with less rpm therefore more efficient!
@Steve
The difference is in the fan type.
The stock fan is a normal "Air Flow" (AF) fan. It's great at moving air with no resistance. However, put some crap in the way, and the air no longer moves freely, and - BAM. It caves, and air flow drops dramatically.
The F12 / A12 fans are "Static Pressure" (SP) fans. They don't move as much air in a free flow situation, but they don't slow as much as back pressure increases.
That is, to a point. After static pressure reaches 2.6mm H2O (2.3mm H2O for the A-12), the fan's flow will start to fall off.
For these reasons, I settled on the EK-Furious Vardar EVO120.
It flows 107CFM up to a SP of 5.8mm H2O, at a livable noise level of 42dBA wide open (3000RPM).
FWIW, I also got a EK-Furious Meltemi 120 (120mm x 38mm) to replace my CPU radiator fan.
It flows 120CFM up to 7.1mm H2O SP.
Its not exactly quiet at 61dBA, but that's at wide open (3500RPM).
@@JSyntax wrong. the AVC has 4000rpm and Noctua has 2000RPM?
just using a oculus quest 2 with link in general won't run well, its better to get a pcvr headset as the display port connection makes it run better, i have a r10 with a 3080, and beat saber running above 72hz refresh rate stutters with oculus link which is stupid for a 3080
Agreed, John carmack needs to go back and fix this now!
Just 3 days ago i fully tore apart my aurora r8, ive never been so stressed out while working on a pc lol, i got the top radiator out by removing the ram then gpu and then the water cooling for the cpu and then unplugging everything off the motherboard. once you get the radiator out id take the whole fan/radiator assembly apart and clean it that way.
Damn I hope my video helped a bit?
I have replace my R12 front fan with noctua fan. But windows restart will boot into Pre-Boot System performance check first and say the fan failed to respond correctly. I check the new front fan is working. any idea how to skip this issue?
what fan did u use?
I run a 3080ti. Just get Noctua nf-a12x15 fan. It’s only 15mm thick vs. the stock fan which is 25mm thick. The 3080ti pops right in and works great.
aweesome
LIFE SAVER ! I have an R8 and the front fan is SO LOUD when im gaming playing world of warcraft , thank you for this ! How loud is it compared to the stock front fan? is it noticeably quitter under load playing a game ?
Did you purchase that 3070 on your own because I bought an Aurora R12 with a 3080 and the card definitely isn’t a FE
How’s the temps/noise on it? thinking of buying an r12 with a 3090 and 5950x, which cpu did you get?
Do you think it's worth to add another intake fan at where the 3.5" hard drive would be if I'm not using a 3.5" drive?
I'd say definitely. I plan on doing it
When I did this on boot up it says the fan doesn't respond like it should. How do I fix this? It won't let me actually boot up
Did you connect 4-pin fan
Theres a number of videos on youtube showing how to add a push pull fan system for the CPU rad
Used this for my r12 gpu dropped 10c also nowhere near as loud as it was before thanks for the vid
Awesome
Hey so I just replaced my fan with this one. I got a bios error on it. Is that normal due to it not being the standard fans or did I miss a step?
waht phan did u buy
I made the fan change using three Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM, added the third as a pull on the CPU water cooler - they worked great until the BIOS 1.05 forced update the BIOS started a fan test on every startup or restart - I could not find a way to turn it off so I had to put the Dell fans back - I wound up gutting a 6 month old R11 with a i9-10900KF, 64gb ram, 2th NVMe SSD, RTX-2080Ti and putting everything in a new case and mobo and pwr Supply ( I did not find the hidden 4 pin mobo power connector until the new PC was built and I was stripping the R11 for the recycle bin - it picked up with the trash yesterday and I now had a great PC and no more Dells ever again after at least 15 years - PS - My R1 was so hot I felt it was a fire hazard, no joke or exaggeration - all cores were hitting 98c before shutting down and PC had to be turned off at least 5 min before you could touch GPU or PSU and not get burnt -
Haha! Nice job doing component surgery! I'll need to do that one time for fun
Would you change the standard cpu fan, too?
After replacing the fans what software are you guys using to control fan speeds?!!
Default alienware software
bro clean that aio and switch the fan with another noctua and then you're gonna see big performance boost
That's the plan!
Is there any differince between the heavy duty
Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-2000 and the Noctua NF-F12 PWM, Premium Quiet?
Also is there a easy way to remove the front fan?
Hey I explain how it is possible to remove the front fan the bottom front fan
@@JSyntax Okay thanks. I ordered the IPC 2000 fan. Is that better than the other one I mentioned?
Antistatic strap? LAWL This dude stuck in the mid 90's
Lmfao
What's static fan??
How do you figure out the curve for your fans? I just replaced my Aurora R5's fans my top and front with a Noctua NF-P12 redux (1700 RPM) and my CPU Fan with a Noctua NF-A8 PWM (2200 RPM). The reason I'm asking is because if I leave it on Auto my graphics card will heat up quite a bit when I play any game that is graphic intensive.
It requires some trial-and-error but eventually you'll get it
How did you get the errors to stop throwing when booting up? I changed out both my front and top fans with Noctua NF-F12 PWM, which are working and accurately following my custom fan curves, but it runs a “SupportAssist Pre-Boot System Performance Check” that always has a critical error saying that the top and front fan aren’t responding correctly. I get this error unless the OEM fans are connected, Dell confirmed this and said that there no way to get around the errors other than switching back to the OEM fans. Thoughts?
Unfortunately the top fan is a lot more fussy I believe. Are you using the liquid AIO
@@JSyntax I have the stock Alienware AIO, I just changed out the fan attached to it. It’s reading the same error on both the top and the front fans that I changed. Upon further digging, it looks like this happens specifically with the Aurora R11 (not sure about the 12) because the motherboard runs different firmware than the R10. Incredibly frustrating, but I don’t need to use my system remotely, so hitting ESC a few times when booting up isn’t a huge deal for the better thermals and significant reduction of noise. I will probably case swap when I have an extra $400-$500 for a new motherboard, psu, and case, bummer that that’s the only real solution as I’ve also been in contact with Dell and there’s no way to turn off the pre-boot check.
bro 1500 rpm for a pc fan is avrage ok 3000 rpm is A LOT
Yes, you are right
My r10 has one fan. I bought two of these noctua s and my temps are exactly the same. I am crying cause it was $80 for both fans. Fuck
Have u played with fan curves and ensure it's running 24 7
@@JSyntax I tried using the awcc and my top fan would slow down and the front would spkie up. What other application can I use instead of the awcc. And also when I made a new profile for noctua to push more air the top would slow down and cpu temp would go up
So which fan would you recommend for better performance? The NF-F12 or the NF-A12?
Hmm, I'd go with a f12 to save money and u want good pressure
EK-Furious Vardar EVO 120
Almost doubles CFM and Static Pressure over A/F-12.
Only increase sound by 5dBA
My R7 is 4 years now. Do you have problem with cpu water cooling yet? I plan to change to air cool b/c water not good for long run and a lot of plug around it.
Is it true that liquid cooling does deteriorate faster than fan Cooling?
my exp and friends . It has very same life time but liquid is leak able. The normal fan just not spin or burn.
I am just a panic guy. I not like water around electric wire.
Just did the same upgrade following your advices, thanks a lot ! I also used the same settings in the Alienware control manager, my UI Is different (it's the latest version) Hope It doesnt metter, if something has changes please let me know
How did it go?
I've bought a Corsair fan to replace the fan that it comes with. But I'm wondering if I should buy another fan and add it as a second one as well?
have ur temps gotten better (controller for noise)?
Finding similar issues on my new Alienware R10 Ryzen edition w/ RTX 3080. Running games like Cyberpunk 2077 make my system sound like a jet engine. Will consider changing fan thanks
Other fans will be more quiet but worse than the stock coolers. I Checkt several fans.
This may sound wild but I watched yours and many other videos prior before doing my fan swaps. Installed 4 noctua fans on my r10 and used two for the top mount. Being extremely careful, I managed to remove the radiator without unbolting the pump and securing it back inside the chassis without damaging the heat sinks as well. It is possible but pins and needles the whole job. Patience and steady hands definitely recommended, but it is possible.
Wow! Very impressive!
i changed both fans with the noctua fans and they're way better... but the fans no longer EVER change speeds. no matter how much load / hot the computer gets, the fans will never speed up or slow down and I cant manually change them in the alienware app.
any ideas?
Did you get 4pin fans?
@@JSyntax i didnt, im a failure... why do 3 pin fans even exist if I can't change their speed!?
I just tried the noctua nf-f12 on alienware aurora r8 but it does not seem to boot 😭😭😭. Do you know why?
It should! Did u use 4pin?
@@JSyntax No. I used 3 pin and had to return it. I ordered 4 pin the other day
@@JSyntax Hopefully the 4 pin version works well
Thank you for the video! May I ask for the second intake fan in R10..do you install them in HDD area?
Yes, of course
were there any compatibility issue? I am going to buy the Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM for my Aurora R11. I don't want to buy fans that wont work. Or should i get corsair ml 120 pro?
pls respond when you can
Are you just changing the bottom intake fan? If so you should be fine
@@JSyntax yes I also want to change the exhaust and add a second intake
@@JSyntax also were the noctuas louder than the stock fans?
i will do that in the near future to my r10. will replace the stock front fan with a noctua, and add a second noctua above it where the r10 has its 3.5" hard drive bay... lets see if that does anything good.
Let me know how it goes!
Will this fan work with r12 ?
Yes
Thanks dude worked like a charm
Enjoy lower temps
Why not use NF-A12X25 PWM? ?
max2000
Yes that's. Good option but I wanted Max static pressure and f12 is much cheaper!
Anyone with R12 tried this and can confirm there's no BIOS error?
its usally the AIO radiator fan that is fussy, botton intake should be fine
I just tried it on my R12, won't boot up, need to put old fan back, guess I'm gonna have to get corsair fan
I just did this on on R12 booted up fine no bios error.
yes bios error here, few problems with this upgrade, for few degres, no more 4 celcius.
I found another one of your vids so to clean the radiator i used a tooth brush and a rat tail brush and lots of patience I am considering swaping out the stock liquid cooler for the corsair hs 60 si i can do the radiator in push pull it will supposedly fit within the bracket as the radiator is of a thinner profile you gave me the idea since the noctua fan comes with that lil splitter i figure why not try the corsair ml pro in push pull to give it a stronger exhaust
Did you ever do this?
Specification data rates the dell liquid cooler at 95W TDP, and the H60 at 80W.
I'm curious as to what your observed temp differences were.
@@501Bravo I never needed to the original pump is still working but after doing the fan swap the temps dropped significantly about 15c lower rpm rarely hits 66 at full load all cores oced
Does this fan cause BIOS boot errors?
No
@@JSyntax YES! on r12...
@@JSyntaxalso on the r11
Was waiting for your review of the GW4 and you have not disappointed! As I am struggling to get much more than two full days of use without recharging from my TWP3 despite the lesser demand it makes on its battery when compared with the GW4, moving to the GW4 (while also ignoring its significant drawbacks that you point out it has if you are not a Samsung phone user), would not make sense for me. I guess we have to decide whether - as with the Apple Watch - we accept daily charging as the price to be paid for a beautiful watch packed full of slick features. The GW4 as shown by you certainly looks super cool but even if you dismiss your first fatal flaw, non-Samsung phone users are left with your second fatal flaw. Thanks as ever for your excellent review. Overall then, would you recommend the TWP3 for most users over the GW4?
I am sticking to TWP3 IMO! I need 3 day battery life and dual display :)
@@JSyntax apologies - I seem to have posted my comment on your Galaxy Watch 4 review against a very different review of yours! I’d be interested in knowing how you get a good three days of battery usage out of your TWP3. I sleep with mine and switch airplane and cinema mode on when I am sleeping. I notice significant battery drain when using it to track my workouts but can always put it on to charge afterwards. Otherwise, I have it on the recommended 5 mins display setting and don’t have notifications automatically appear on the watch face. I use a simple largely black watch face.
Thanks for the video. Replacing the liquid cooling fan isn't difficult at all. I did in my R10 using Corsair fans in the Push/Pull Configuration.
How did it affect your R10? I'm planning the exact same upgrade for tuesday. I hope for a bit lowe temps and less noise
@@derevu2072 I'm happy. I learned how to install a liquid cooler, push/pull configuration when I've NEVER opened a computer. My temps are 46C-52C under load and fans are quietly running at 27% (3)!
you are a ✨hero✨ my dude
Right on
I gotta say I must have hit the lottery with my r10. I’ve had no heat issues for cpu or gpu. 5600x and RX 6800 XT. I watched a ton of videos like this leading up to mine being delivered and I nearly cancelled the order thinking I’d be plagued by noise and heat. It’s been no trouble at all.
Same here. I got the same build aswell. What an absolute banger of a build for the price compared to building myself and card hunting in the market
@@ytbeasty6770 absolutely. I’m playing New World at 1440p with gpu temps in the 50s and cpu below 70c. It’s nuts.
@@MrHodge1 how do you check cpu temperature? I can only check GPU via the Nvidia software you can install.
Really solid video in terms of helping improve the stupid design of Alienware. And cheap parts dell used.
Hey mate you can take out the top fan and radiator easy. Just unscrew the radiator from the top and 2 screws from the inside and it will slide right out. Then you can change the fan or the whole radiator with a Cosair H60 liquid cooling if you want.
Didn't like how the H60 has such long hose, making it hard to close the enclosure. I think the stock aio is very good! I just need to clean the dust!
@@JSyntax Yes you can just take out the top fan and use vacuum cleaner suck the radiator. And switch the fan.
@@minhtikeaung7778 so you don't have to open the top case to switch the fan? That's great, thanks for the info
@@zarakitube you don't need to bro u can pull for inside.
@@minhtikeaung7778 does the noctua NF-P12 1700 PWM work as a top fan?
I know little about computers but I just bought an Aurora 12. I added a Corsair M60 water cooling fan and it was pretty simple. The toughest part was getting the fan bracket that holds the fan (it's a big, boxy thing) over the motherboard rivets and components. The trick is to take out the DDR's (and you'll have to remove your pump), work most of the case/bracket outward from the rear of the computer case, slowly shimmy it down and towards the rear. Once it's mostly free you're going to have to fight with getting the case/bracket over the DDR locks. I wound up pulling outwards on the computer case plastics a bit.
Same thing in reverse to re-install. If I can do it, anyone can!!!
You shouldn't have to immediately replace the fans on a PC that costs thousands of dollars. I will never buy from Alienware again. My R13 was the worst PC that I've ever owned. It crashed 20 times in two days. The parts that they used are some of the worst that I've ever seen, especially the RAM and the power supply. The 3080 GPU was horrible as well. I really wanted to like my R13, but I just couldn't. I returned it and will take my money elsewhere.
Damn tough words! Will you build your own pc now?
you can change the fans in this but it will only make the overheating problem more prevalent.... maybe try be queit! silend wings 4 pro instead at least for their higher throughput