Suggestion: I think a playlist with videos geared towards first-time builders/people just getting into this would be amazingly helpful, as a lot of the time we don't even know what questions we need answered
This would be pretty cool to see. Im a fairly experienced builder and even still I'll watch videos and hear terms thrown around about simple parts that idk what theyre talking about
After seeing this video, I kinda wish Jay would make a video with visuals to explain bearings better. New people are prolly not gonna follow as well without some type of visual
Right, liquid, gas, and plasma are all fluids. Plasma's a real bitch to deal with tho, as anyone who's trying to design a fusion reactor will tell you. One of the most apt metaphors I've heard for how difficult it is to use magnetic fields to confine plasma is "It's like trying to contain Jello using only rubber bands". I wish the best of luck to the people working on the ITER project, but I have more hope for inertially confined designs at least initially.
There is a hybrid bearing used by Noctua. The self-stabilizing oil-pressure bearing (SSO bearing) is a blend of the fluid bearing and maglev bearing. With Noctua's 6-year warranty, they seem to last longer than many fluid bearing fans, and the maglev component should help with all orientations.
I have a NF-P12 from 2008 and he is still running without a bearing noise. The fan ran ~100'000h over the years in my server. Thats why iI have only Noctuas in my PC.
@@H1zN Have two NF-A8 in my PA amp since 09. Zero complaints. That amp runs pretty warm and eats dust like crazy. Without me cleaning it, that thing would look like a vacuum cleaner dust bag. On top of that, the amp gets used outside in the hot summer sun too. Inside can get up to toasty 60-70C.
Love the nf-p12, but the ones I have from that era that were vertically mounted (blowing air out/in the side/backs of the case) started to make noise last year. The ones that were mounted to the top are still 100%.
Not sure why you would want a fluid in a maglev bearing, but ok. You already have low friction with the maglev, introducing a fluid will only cause more friction.
@@Jalahr77 you raise an interesting point. I'm only speculating but perhaps this cuts down build costs of a full maglev bearing while allowing a lesser maglev system to split the workload with a smaller amount of fluid than typically used in a full fluid system. This way neither component bears the brunt of the workload, perhaps lengthening the lifespan of each component. I'm suggesting this due to the competitive cost of the Noctua Redux line and how full maglev bearings are regarded as some of the most expensive.
lol so true man for my build I bought cheap 120mm with blue led and each one only cost 7.50 euro! and I put 3 fans in the front and kept the stock fan on the back because my case glass on the sides is tinted black so you can't really look inside xD
I almost died when you talked about the fluid bearing causing wobble and smacking it is a temporary fix. I had shitty cheap fans in my old rig and had that issue so i was always smacking my case on startup. You bringing that up was a blast from the past.
I actually just recently had one of my LianLi SL120s that had that happen, not even a year old, thank god for manufacturer warranty! Those are annoying to find.
@@pyraffin You'll probably have to get replacement fan to fix that. You can usually find replacement fans for even pretty obscure laptop models online but just finding someone who knows how to do it might be the issue
I spent way more time researching fans than any other component for my current build. Case is Thermaltake Core X9. Front intake: two 200mm Thermaltake, Top exhaust: one 360 Corsair AIO, plus three 140mm Thermaltake, Right intake: three 140mm Thermaltake, Bottom intake: one 120mm Thermaltake, Rear exhaust: two 140mm Thermaltake. I totaled the advertised CFM, subtracted 10% for variance, and came up with approximately 520 CFM for intake, 540 CFM for exhaust. I'm not sure how relevant that info is compared to actual airflow. Time and testing will tell. Fair winds and following seas to all.
Five year old build with a couple GPU upgrades along the way. I splurged and used the fans that came with the case. Still using the same fans. I bought a pair of Noctuas, but never really needed them. Jay is right. Knowledge is King and don't go crazy worrying about fans.
Then you get into server and rack equipment fans, where you're spinning a tiny little fan at like 20k RPM, with 6 of those in a single unit. Pretty much sounds like a jet taking off.
The increased sweep at the end of the new static pressure fans is to lower the noise caused by the fan. The majority of fan noise is generated by the resistance at the tip (the fastest moving part of the fan). Increasing the sweep right at the tip lowers the resistance at that point while increasing the resistance where the sweep reduces closer to the hub. It also has the effect of increasing static pressure, but the main purpose of that exaggerated sweep right at the end is to reduce noise.
Love this idea - to come back and discuss things you already have from years ago. As a noob to the PC building world I have learned a TON from this channel!!! Jay has educated me on things I had absolutely no idea about, thus increasing my desire to get more into computer building. Great channel, excellent explanations and would LOVE to see more of these videos re-addressing past topics!
Just letting you know, JTC-production, that the dialogue sounds slightly panned to the left, by say 15-20% from center (I can hear it and see it on a meter), and it has been like this for at least months now. - Not a huge deal, but either there's a pan-setting in the editor off-center or there's something wrong with a contact in the recording-gear.
or the editor needs a hearing test due to all the construction lol. my left ear tested 5dB better than my right, for example. could be dying headphones too. i've not noticed it myself but i squash to mono and compress/normalise audio on youtube with breakaway anyway cause everybody levels/peaks/dynamics stuff differently
Addition: Mag-Lev fans are also easier to drive. I had a Corsair Air 540 with an MSI Z97 motherboard. The 1 rear + 2 top fans were on a single header and it wouldn't power them all. Doing that same configuration with Mag-Lev fans enabled that one header to power all of them.
While possibly true, it also depends on how much power the fan itself needs and and what the header can provide. If you switched from 3, as jay points out, 0,35A fans to 3 0,25A fans than it doesn't matter if they are maglev or bb or fluid, they WILL now all run. Obviously I can see the frictionless maglev fans needing very little power to run compared to any other bearing type, so I'm not denying that.
I have a Cooler Master Storm Sniper case that has a 200 mm fan mounted on the side. Fan has been running silently every single day for 11 years. Best case/fans I’ve ever had.
cooler master 200mm fan on a home-cut acrylic side panel still running since end of 2014, it's not running max speed tough 500rpm, was pretty much mandatory for "good old" sli
200mm fan motor wearing out? What's the power load? 4 pin only, not 4-pin fan power connectors or a 6-8 fan pin power connector on the mobo as power bandwidth on one connector usually works in software controls on the motherboard here for PC case cooling? Does it need more power to run it correctly here, as the more significant the motor, the more power it usually needs here, like your can fan on your radiator or a car engine?
@@john-paulhunt2604 bro relax lol, he's referring to how Jay said that those types of fans are not good at pulling air around obstructions or off of side air panels which is pretty much all of NZXT's cases lol
This wasn't boring at all, this was very interesting! I didn't know there was so much science behind it and this ist so cool that you made a video about this topic.
To your question at the end of the video, i have 5 "PC Cooler" Fan (Those cheap one Kyle(Bitwit) Showed. Hydraulic bearing is what those fan turn on. I have them since */04/2018. They still run smoothly, no weird noise coming from them. The only thing that has failed is some Blue LED that got dimmer. I also have 2 Cooler Master fan from my AIO... Horrible noise since day 1 coming out of them if the RPM is past 1500
I've had my Antec 1200 case for years and years now, I can't even remember exactly how long but it was a new case at the time. It's so old I had to go to Antec direct to source the USB 3.0 upgrades to refresh the front I/O and I paid a ridiculous price to do it too. I was surprised they still even had spares since all they seem to do nowadays is fans and even those are few and far between. But, I digress, from the day I bought the case until today I've run the stock fans (5x 120mm, 3x front and 2x rear and 1x 200mm fan on top - I think they are all ball bearing) and not a single one has failed, gone weird, needed to be replaced, or started making weird noises (In this I hit the fan lottery jackpot). We are talking at least 8 years. It's an admittedly ancient case with non of the mod-cons I'd like, such as a basement, cable routing channels, the fans themselves are still MOLEX so it's manual fan controls for each individual fan... but I can honestly say I think the case and the fans will outlast me, and I'm 34. I would love to upgrade to a new case along with new components whenever I can actually afford such frivolities in these weird and trying times; but you know, I think I'd miss the old girl stood ten feet tall on my desk if I ever did replace her. At this point though the Antec 1200 is like your Skunkworks; 1. A museum piece and, 2. they just don't build 'em like that anymore.
I also have an original Antec 1200 Gaming tower (has to be at least 12 years old). I have had to replace all the 120mm fans, but that 200mm blowhole fan keeps on going and going. I did end up using 120mm fans that I plug directly into the mainboard instead of using the manual controls for the fans provided with the case originally. Basically the same setup, 3 x 120mm pulling air in the front through the filters and 2 x 120mm pushing out the back, plus the 200mm blowhole pushing out the top. I have not bothered swapping the front I/O, since I never plug in anything there that needs more than plain old USB 1. I love this case, even with some of it's pain points (SO MANY THUMBSCREWS).
I agree. I have a Ryzen system but I still use my Coolermaster Storm Trooper case. Its big, its heavy, its built like a tank. I haven't found an other case I like. Tempered glass isn't for me and I like big cases. I even run a 280mm AiO in it up top.
Antec 900 here, the little brother checking in, I had a 2 blades break when cleaning it , considering it lasted this long it is my favorite case from my childhood and will not ever get rid of it, I replaced it with a thermaltek fan drilled new mounting points and bolted it in , it doesnt have a speed setting anymore but it works!! still the antec 1200/900/whateverthesmallonewas, hold my opinion as one of the best airflow cases.
Antec used to build durable hardware but the quality is gone now. With manufactured obsolescence and corporate greed, we get stuff that doesn't last even a year no matter the price bracket. The amount of e-waste and rare earth metal wastage will come to bite us back hard...
I used an Antec 900 for my midrange gaming PC for around 14 years straight, lol. I just took parts out, upgraded them, and put them back in for every upgrade.
I've been using same 5 Noctua NF-F14 fans in my systems for the past 10+ years, at the time paying around $25 each for them seemed outrageous but the fact they have lasted this long spinning countless hours probably has been one of my better PC investments.
@@user-sx6rm9uu7q i think those two would make a very short video, but yes, it is possible. Now, how could you do a video like this about the: CPU, GPU, PSU, hard drive, case?
Same here! Noctua's self-stabilizing oil-pressure bearing (SSO bearing) system uses fluid and a maglev. It seems like a nice hybrid approach. Hope my fans last without leaking any oil. I am content with my purchase, thanks to the high quality of materials and the 6-year warranty.
Thanks for the explanation on the bearings, I live in an area with constant sandstorms and I had the suspicion the fans kept failing every few years because of them being fluid bearing and the sand/dust (PM2.5) getting in there.
That would do it. Ball bearing fans could also fail over time if they aren't sealed properly, or if sand works its way into the balls over time and you have crushed up fine dust all over inside. Maglev all the way.
I've been living in a renovation home for a bunch of years. With all the dust, I could just see the fans dying left and right. Upgraded to Noctua's industrial line of fans, some are rated for IP67. 5years later still going strong. Even washed them in the sink between builds 😅
@@fat_pigeon Had never seen anything like that here, just dunno maybe if it doesn't heat up the house more and is expensive I could see it being useful thanks Here we just tend to seal the upper sides of windows and doors and put wet towels where they meet the frames to "catch" without letting sand/dust or volcanic ash (we're going through a volcanic eruption in the archipelago so that ain't helping lol) in
I'm a huge fan (pun intended) of the Arctic P12 for everything in my LANCOOL II case (thanks again Jay for the video on that). They can be purchased in packs of 5 for sometimes as little as $25 for the 3-pin 120mm version. I started off buying two for my Kraken X53 and ended up getting ten more to fill my entire case as well as set up the X53 in push/pull (liquid is at 27°C idle right now). They are quieter than the Lian-Li case fans, UNi Fan SL120s, NZXT 120mm fans that came with the X53, and the three shroud fans that used to be on my Strix 3070. I removed the shroud on the 3070 and clipped two of the P12s directly over the OEM heatsink and connected them to the fan headers on the GPU. Using GPU Tweak II to ramp the fans to 100% the P12s keep the card super cold (it's idling at 29°C right now). The P8, P12, and P14 come in many different variations with piggy-backing, PWM, thin, white, super quiet, transparent, RGB, and temperature-controlled. I have them running at 100% all the time and I barely notice they are there. They are optimized for static pressure but work great as case fans as well. Technical Info - Fan speed: 1800 RPM, Airflow: 56.3 CFM/95.65 m³/h (@ 1800 RPM), Noise Level: 0.3 Sone (@ 1800 RPM), Pin: 3-pin (no reason to go PWM if they are at 100% all the time)
I was planning to buy P12 PWM for every fan slot, but after watching this video I started considering P12 CO (continuous operation), which has dual ball bearing for 2 slots on the top as exhaust.
Maybe you take it for granted, but don't speak for everyone. Each piece of my build is just as important as the pieces around it, and are treated with the same level of respect
Probably would be good to say that there are many different names for the same bearing: Fluid Dynamic Bearing (FDB) may also be called a Rifle Bearing or Hydro Dynamic Bearing (HDB) depending on manufacturer. This bearing in any of its variations is overall superior to the "sleeve bearing" which implies no rifling system to keep the fluid in motion.
I had a CM HAF case that had one 200mm intake in the front and one 200mm exhaust in the top and it was a great setup. Both quiet and had amazing airflow. It’s actually still running today with the original fans in a machine I built for my Dad. It’s probably 10+ years old at this point.
Exactly the same - CM Haf bought when they first came out, side mounted 200mm fan, been run pretty much continuously from day one, zero problems, zero noise issues.
That's nutty, I also have my old rig still in it's old HAF. Never had problems with it. I've been thinking about getting a bigger better case for my next build at first but then I realized the HAF could maybe see the light of day again? I gotta figure out what the radiator options are for it though... that's gonna be a half headache but surely the info is online somewhere...
@@QuantumConundrum the only issue with building in that case these days is that the front panel only had USB 2.0 ports, although I put a $25 4-port USB 3.0 hub in one of the 5.5 inch bays in the front for my Dad’s rig, so that sort of fixed the problem. Like you said, it’s a monster of a case in terms of internal size. You could easily fit something like a Noctua DH-15 in there rather than a radiator.
@@acegh0st For years I ran it with rads - purely for the quietness that W/C lets you achieve - but for my last build about 12 months ago I decided to give air another go. I'm actually running a DH-15 in it at the mo, along with the stock 200mm in the side, and the stock 120 or 140 in the front. The only problem I've ever had with that case is that one of the feet on it collapsed ! (HAF 932 ATX)
@@Steve_1401 It's actually pretty funny, because, iirc, the first build I did in this case used one 120mm radiator in the rear fan slot!?! That was when AIOs were a new thing and I think it was a Corsair H60(?) or similar. You'd never consider something like that in such a roomy case nowadays. I was pretty new to building computers, then. With the 2 x 200mm fans it obviously had ridiculous airflow through the chassis, though. Nowadays, I think it has a basic CM H212 EVO Black CPU cooler in it, cooling an i7 3770k. Video card is a GTX1060 6GB. Its a basic machine for modern gaming, but my dad mostly plays stuff like World of Tanks and and WOWS, so it works fine, even at 1440 res.
The Lian Li 215 case comes with 2 x 200mm argb fans in the front. I really like that case for a lot of reasons. My current rig is sitting in one and it's the third one I've built in, overall
I had a lancool 215. That things dust filter didn't work for me and I don't live in a dusty area or have my window open like ever. Also the 200mm fan started to do what he said and rattle until I smacked it after 3 months. Great case and looks good though
I am running several Noctua NF-P12 redux for my general case fans. Bought them in October 2019, they are 2 years old now and still going strong! Currently they are the best fans I have ever owned, and only cost me about $12 a fan.
I suspect Arctic F12 PWMs to do very well considering their price. $40 for a pack of 5. They are really good cheap fans that last a decent life-cycle for a PC. They are a hybrid design for airflow/pressure but seem to do as good or better than more expensive fans in their same performance range.
@@kyoudaiken I've only bought one 5 pack of P14 but none of them are whiny. I used them to replace a bunch of dusty fans, which are ashamedly still sitting in the arctic box just as dusty as the day I switched them.
Great video. I went through this fan game a couple months back when I was buying all new fans for a new rig I was building, it was hard getting concrete answers to a lot of what you brought up. Thanks for Jaytober!!!
You have to be a pretty sick individual to get into the weeds or fans. I went there and wound up with Kaze Flex fans and am happy for them, but man am I digusted with myself for how much time I wasted on the subject. Also, I think Corsair fans are obnoxious. I used to only go by max performance, now I'm more about performance at the lowest pleasant noise levels and tuning the fans down. This is by far my favorite setup and it didn't cost a fortune. I was so close to getting the NB eLoops but $120 on some fans seemed a bit silly when I saw it in the shopping cart. Haha
I am using Corsair AF and SP maglev fans I bought back in early 2016 (6 years almost) and they are still going strong on my cases and AIOs. Not to mention they produce a lot less noise. Well worth the cost.
I used to have my whole case full of the af and sp fans but got noises. I've now got it full of the maglevs and they are such a game changer! Unbelievably quiet and effective. Certainly sticking to then from now on
Very informative video Jay, I've been running Mag Lev fans for the past year or so with zero issues and very quiet. Glad to hear I have years to look forward to with them!
I switched to the Corsair ML series on my first build after they came out, and they're all I use now for both the case and radiator fans. They're quite loud at 100%, but they can be easily run at 50-75% very quietly and still move quite a bit of air. Plus, I can get them without RGB :)
Jay, I appreciate the fact that you take the time to do videos such as this one. Just because a lot of us might know this, there are more people than we know that don't. So you taking the time to cover a spectrum of people is awesome. Keep it coming. Even if we know it. It's could to be refreshed on certain topics anyway!
I have been using Arctic P12 and P14 fluid "dynamic" bearing fans since about 2020 in my builds and have yet to have any failures from any of them, and at their cost (about $10 US each I think)I am very impressed, not much to look at though, but they keep my PCs cool. I have about 10 of them from 2020, run them about 4-8 hrs a day on average. Very quiet too which is always a plus.
Fun fact: you can fit 3 40mm server fans in a cd bay slot. Is it loud? Yep is it effective? Kinda. Is it stupid? Yep was it fun? Yep, fans go brrrrrrrrrrr
I've revived several fans by pulling the sticker back and pulling sewing machine oil in. The price to replace fans is stupid expensive it's worth reviving the old ones where possible
I was tempted to go the whole solid/liquid/gas argument... But after a couple of beers, I realised alcohol was a solution and a problem so I didn't bother
Well I’ve got quite a hodgepodge of fans in my rig, 1 Noctua, 1 Arctic, 1 Thermaltake, 1 cheap Corsair and 2 be quiet! fans on my AIO. So far so good, they all work well.
@@phoenixfire8978 I can't really compare the Noctua and the Arctic F12 120mm as the Noctua is a 700RPM airflow fan and the Arctic is a static airpressure fan but in saying that I find the speed I can run the Arctic before it's annoying is quite high. And it seriously moves air, I have it as top intake on my Thermaltake Core V21 over the graphics card.
i remember watching your channel when you were " new" like 6 years ago, you were the cause that made me build my pc, now i am about to build a new pc. Cheers jay!!!
Thank you very much. Just built a new computer. I used 5 Noctua NF A fans (3x25mm, 2x15mm) costing about US$130. It was an ITX build in a CM NR200 case w/ an RTX 3080 Ti FE (thank you Best Buy), and R9 5900X, plus... I had no problem spending extra on fans to keep it cool. Thanks again.
I've been running Noctua fans for almost 10 years, the most noisy part of my computer are the HDD now, when on idle or light load, then it's the CPU/GPU fans that take over.
Noc's are great fans.....I also use Corsair & Arctic......I switch back & forth between those 3 depending on price ,size,designation of what it's going to be used for and whether I want it to be colored or not.
I have some random 12mm fans that were pre-installed on my 40€ Sharkoon case. The HDDs are still the loudest part at idle. Even when my CPU (3700X with a Alpenföhn Ben Nevis cooler) is running at max the HDDs are about as load as that. Heavy gaming usually makes the GPU the loudest part by far though.
@@skullofhell1662 - I know. I just can't believe that anyone is still using them in their PC's. My only computer with HDD's is my server and it will be based on SSD's in its next iteration.
I genuinely thought this video was satire, about "top 10 types of pc masterrace fans" and not actual blowing fans! Boy was i happily surprised to see this being an informational video!!
For 200mm fans, Noctua makes a really nice one. I really wish those would come back in vogue for case makers and fan makers - Imagine a 400mm radiator! I really wish Jay covered the difference between 3-pin voltage control fans vs. 4-pin PWM fans. Many cases still has non-PWM 3-pin fans as the stock fans, so it would be nice to help the newbies who are confused as to why their case stock fans are different looking from the 4 pin fans, and why they can't use PWM signals to control their fans.
I have been using Corsair's Air Series White LED (AF140 3x) and (SP140 3x) fans for 5 years now. All 6 fans are sleeve bearing. 2 have been mounted horizontal and 4 vertical for all 5 years, no issues whatsoever. Dust environment is above average but case filters are cleaned every 3-6 months and fans are dusted off about every 1-2 years. Very happy with them considering i paid $85 for all 6 fans in 2017.
A topic that is often ignored, but still important. Good thing it was refreshed. Thanks. My cooling set is mounted on Case TT Core P5 (open case). On Ryzen 3600 is CPU cooler Raijintek Leto Pro RGB 120mm. A set of 3pack fan Raijintek Macula 12 Rainbow RGB is mounted perpendicular to the frame of the computer case, from up to down - the fans only have to set the air in motion. They cool down the x570 chipset, among other things, and therefore its chipset fan turns on less often. It also everything looks pretty good - a little like a small reactor :)
Noctua fans in traditional brown. So far, I've never had a Noctua fan fail on me. Some has run 24/7 for nearly five years without a hiccup. In fact, I have a box with older Noctua fans from prior builds that were still running fine when I was ready to decommission the computer.
Great content! I always enjoy the simple stuff that sometimes in my head isn't so simple. It's nice to get refreshers and new people in the space to get some pointers.
I was hoping that you'd understand that he did. Get out of the fridge and look up the spec of the card on the manufacturers site. You already chose asthetics over functionality when you extended the circuit paths between your GPU and CPU and PSU. Why bother with Science now?
Thank you jay for telling why I have one noisy fan, I live in a dry dusty region and it's a vertical mount... it hasn't died yet but now I know what to shop for when it does!
I use CORSAIR A500 High Performance Dual Fan CPU Cooler and love it. no issues and out does most AIO coolers on the market right now. been running for over a year with it and no issues and keeps the CPU cooled.
I watched some reviews and went with Arctic (140mm since that's what my case uses). They've compared well with Noctuas in tests. They are quiet, keep things cool, and were easy to wire. I paid around $45 for a 5 pack. They have a 7 year warranty, but at that price, if one fails I'll just put in a new one and not worry about it.
Arctics are the go-to budget fan for achieving decent temps for the money spent, *BUT they have a **_terrible_** sound profile* -- at three different RPM ranges they sound like three different brands of fans. An irregular sound profile is worse than simply being loud -- a loud but consistent sound profile will eventually get ignored by your brain. A constantly changing sound profile as temps change in your case will be continually noticed by your brain, forever. Ultimately, this is the reason Arctics are cheap.
@@CrimFerret you're just about avoiding two of the three RPM ranges in which the sound profile changes, then, so sounds like Arctics are good for you. For me, the whole point of a pwm fan is to use its entire rpm range, but to each their own
i have the cheapest of the chepaest fans from Silentium PC, working great still on almost fuul speed, only 1 from my top case start to ratlinf little, puting him on front and rattling ended, like u said those bearings dont like to be face down;)
Most recently I use mainly Corsair 120mm ML fans and the longest I've had one has been about 18 months with zero issues.... pricy and NOT the quietest option even on super-low speed but very high quality with excellent airflow & static-pressure. (plus pretty ARGB) In the past I've gotten BY FAR the best results from Aerocool Shark fans. (120/140mm - Fluid-Dynamic bearing) I have several blue LED models that are over 10 YEARS old, have been running close to 24/7 for the entire time and are as quiet/smooth as the day they were first installed. (never tried on an AIO/rad) I've also had good luck with Cooler Master 120mm "Sickle-Flow" fans (sleeve-bearing/fixed blue LED) for a more affordable option at around $9 each and they do fine on my 240mm Corsair AIO on my backup FX system. Noctua I've never had a problem with either but they've also never really impressed me all that much considering their high-ish price and (until recently) baby-poop brown color scheme.
My fan-configuration: I have two Arctic Cooling BioniX F140s as intakes (blowing right onto the GPU) and two P140s as exhausts in the top. - Then there's one BitFenix 200m as an intake in the front and one 120mm fan by DeepCool that has an interesting "double blade" design which came with a DeepCool AIO. These are some of the best I could find in terms of price to performance, not only performance in airflow/pressure but also noise. Do note I use them at lower speeds to also keep them quiet, but that's why I use multiple larger ones. - I would honestly use a few more, but it doesn't fit in my particular case, unfortunately. As for the environment, the humidity is almost always average. The room can get quite dusty, but I try to vacuum and dust off every week, also cleaning off the outside of the case and its fans. - I tend to not let it get too dusty, cause it's just not good and I'm not gonna let that happen to an expensive device. I'm not sure how they will last, but probably quite a few years considering I've had worse ones with much more dust that still worked fine after more than half a decade, and now I'm keeping more premium ones cleaner. - I've only had the Arctic ones for months now, but the DeepCool one has been running for hours almost every day for almost 2 years now and it's one of the most whisper-quiet fans I've heard. I mean, I really have to try to hear it, though again at lower speeds. I will also vouch for bequiet!, of which I had a few fans in the 2010s, and I temporarily stripped one from an older build, but it was doing well despite having been used for years in a rather dusty case that sat near the floor. I will say that the pins they use to jam into their rubber corners break easily (at least now, so maybe the plastic dried), but with some careful wiggling they will be fine. Now, if only they could do something about GPU-fans... I have an idea, but I'll need a company to try it out and get it from me. - If you see something weird in terms of GPU-cooling pop up in the next few years, you're welcome, whether you like it or not.
I think you got mixed up here. By “fluid bearing” being the worst I think you mean “Hydro Bearing” or whatever they use to hide the cheap sleeve bearing. True Fluid Dynamic Bearings are the best. Sleeve Bearings are the worst. Sleeve bearings are affected by orientation, not true fluid bearings. Noctuas and Be Quiets! are fluid bearings. They don’t suck.
also i'm not sure if he mixed up the information, but according to gamernexus's post Sleeve bearing fans are the one that shouldn't be mounted horizontally, with FDB bearing fine with either direction
@ZIV Nice reply. I rewatched that bit again and I’m cringing. Not to be mean, but he really should take this down as he’s basically telling everyone to go by sleeve bearing fans. He mixed up SO much.
Maglev for the win. I've been running these (the ML140) since they were released in August 2016, and still have had no issues. I moved these from one computer to another and they're still going.
I’ve been building computers for about 20 years and this video is gold. Fans have become more important over the years and I’ll admit that my knowledge on them was pretty limited prior to this video (other than being able to reference marketing material).
I thought FBD fans were generally better than sleeved, or has the times changed? Also from what I've read rifle and FBDs are essentiall marginally different solutions to the same problem (even lubrication), I've heard that some companies will even market rifle fans as FBD designs (technically not false). Ball bearings are definitely the longevity king though, for a personal pc you're more likely to replace them from increased noise with age rather than it actually failing.
I have been wondering what happened to the AF and SP fans. Thank you for finally clearing that up for me. currently running nothing but Noctua NF-F12 and F14 3000 rpm fans in my small NR200. Probably overkill, but they move a lot of air at low speeds so they don't get loud.
I filled my Corsair 5000D airflow case with Noctua Redux fans. The two-tone gray fans look amazing with the white and gray case. I'm so glad I returned my brittle and cheap-feeling Arctic fans. I'm also running two Noctua chromax fans on a Noctua dual cooling tower.
Gonna be honest when he asked the question about what are we using in our rigs, i realized i had no idea.. I've never built a super high end system and i never overckock so things like water cooling were never a factor. Doing additional research and watching his videos and linus on case air cooling im not even sure which direction (exhaust versus intake) my add on fans are facing. Learned a lot today from old videos. Thank you!
As expensive as they are, I've recently become a fan of the be quiet! Silent Wing series. I have two SW3 140 (exhaust) and two SW3 High Speed 140 (intake) fans in my system with the 'Turbo' fan speed setting on my Asus motherboard, and they are the quietest fans I've ever had. Fan manufacturers used to compete with performance, but anno 2021, it all comes down to silence, imo.
@epriley891 you can manipulate pressure using fan curves. Just need to know cfm at each rpm and take it from there. Also his intake says high speed so i guess its higher cfm at the same rpm of the exhaust fans.
Thinking about going with the ARCTIC P12 5-pack for $30 on Amazon. Optimum Tech used them in a NR200 build with a 3070 FE a while back, and he seemed pretty satisfied with the performance I'm working on a $800 build at the moment with i7-11700 and RX 480 (just a placeholder) so these should be good enough for now.
Just finished my build 3 months ago and decided on installing 9 Lianli SL120 fans because of their looks and less cable management. Didn’t know they are fluid bearing, now 2 of the 9 fans started to make loud noises. Both were placed horizontally, swapping one with vertical ones did make one of them stop. Just can’t believe the built quality lasted only 3 months. Switching to ball bearing!
My chassi is Haf922. the 3x200mm(ball bearing) are alive since november 2009. cleaning inside few times a year, and chassi(panels) is colder than room temp. rear noctua 120mm(SSObearing). cpu has NH-C12P SE14 the 140mm(SSObearing) round frame. and thanks to Am4 mounting it works as it did 10years ago.
so i have the Lian Li DK 04F and wondering what fans i should put in it. i can do 7 fans (120mm) or 6 (140mm fans). i have 4 intake in the front atm and 3 exhaust in the rear atm or should i get 140mm fans and do 3 intake 3 exhaust.
I’d do 3x3. The 140mm will have more airflow usually. I’d make sure you put the in and out on different pwm’s tho so you can make the exhaust slightly slower. It’d also be best if all the fans are the same make.
I got 3 thin static noctuas in front of my PC, meshify C, and two Corsairs on my 240mm radiator. My room is very dusty, but I never had issues with my fans because of that. I needed the thin noctuas because the 2070S GPU is too long for the "default" corsair fans.
You could have talked about 3-wire vs. 4-wire connectors and how to know which fans are controllable by the MoBo. And RGB/aRGB would be helpful. I'm currently working on a new build but I paused while I'm learning about all this (never had RGB before). So this video is timely for me and it's good (about air flow), but it's lacking.
Running 6 Swiftech Helix 120 fans in the pull arrangement on 2 Swiftech MCR320QP rev 2 radiators plumbed in parallel. All water cooling components, except the cpu and gpu blocks are external to the pc case. Running 2 Swiftech MCP655 pumps in series. The above items have been running in a garage (non cooled / unfiltered - Inland Empire CA) environment 24 / 7 since 1/1/2013 !
I built my first PC almost 10years ago and still use some of the fans. Not a single fan died so far. But I remember my confusion about what fans to buy so this video would have been super great back then!!
I'm struggling to pick between these 2 fans, anyone have experience with them? - Noctua NF-A12x25 (chromax version finally released last week) - LianLi UniFan AL120 (also released this year, updating on the SL120) so from what I've researched these Noctuas are the state of the art (though phanteks t30 is arguable), but AL120 seems to be close enough (and has that RGB lighting). Basically I dont care about a few degrees temps but do care about noise - are the AL120s quiet enough? I'm concerned cause it looks like you cant run them below 800RPM?
@Will I can only speak to my experience. I initially filled my new PC build with Arctic fans because they were rated high and had a 10-year warranty. But as soon as I opened the boxes I felt how brittle and cheapy they were to the touch, plus their color wasn't consistent with the 120 and 140mm sizes (bright white for the small ones and creamy white for the bigger ones). I returned them all and picked up Noctua fans from their Redux line. They feel very high quality and durable, and they run almost completely silent unless they're at full speed-and even then it's just a soft whisper. I highly recommend Noctua! As a side note, all the static pressure fans I bought were rated up to 1700 RPM, But I later bought Noctua's low noise adapter cables to limit them to 1200 RPM, which is still plenty of cooling power. You can buy Noctua fans at either RPM limit. I hope this helps.
@@Дмитрий-с3п4ы I know what you're saying. For the price, and a 10-year warranty, a 5-pack of black Arctic fans are hard to beat. Especially so since they seem to be pretty good at moving air efficiently.
@@Дмитрий-с3п4ы with my first PC build, I bought a bunch of white Arctic fans, both 120 mm and 140 mm. The only reason I didn't stick with them is because the color was more yellow white or cream white with the 140 mm fans. The rest of my build was a cool white and for me they stuck out like plastic that was faded in the sun and yellowed.
My build currently has 6 Corsair ML-120s with no lighting/RGB on them. I paid $AUD 50 per twin pack so they were not too bad price wise. So far they have lasted 3 years with no issues. Maintenance wise I tend to clean my dust filters every week or two (basically when they start looking dusty) and do a full maintenance (partial teardown, deep dusting and water change) every 6 months or so.
Fitted my Lian Li O11 mini with two Arctic P12 PWN PST Valuepacks. 6$/fan can't beat that. On top of my Vetroo V5 (fitted with two P12's) this means my complete cooling solution came to exactly 90 bucks. Got all the case fans running at a fixed 35% or 730rpm and the CPU fans on a very gentle curve. Almost inaudible and temps are totally under control. Thanks for the recommendations Jay, would definitely buy again.
The fluid pull you mentioned in rifle bearings is called capillary action. Cool video had to replace my psu from a dead non-serviceable fan nice to know more about bearings and such.
Hey Jay, have you ever done testing using air flow and static pressure fans together in the same case? If a air flow case had static pressure, or reverse? what would be the outcome??? I think a mix of 2 types "might" give a different results.
Jay tells you to put your questions down below not because he wants to know what you have to say, he wants you to boost the algorithms by posting on his video. If you aren’t doing something to make him money, you are worthless to him.
Cooler Master HAF X in service here since 2011...with the original 2 x 200mm and the 240mm front still good. Good chance back in the day they build better, but at least here i had no problems. They survived several 140mm....
I don't find this a boring subject at all! I watched your last video on it too, and that video taught me what fans I needed for my first wartercooled setup. Hopefully more beginners get help from videos like this. Even as an "old timer" they are entertaining.
Coming back at this video. Amazing knowledge. I was worried I bought 3 static pressure fans for my pc case and though the newer "air flow" ones were better, but I accidentally got the correct ones. They indeed need to "suck" air through a mesh filter, and I will move the two air flow ones that already came with the case to the exhaust back part that doesn't have any mesh or filter. That's gonna help my pc keep the positive pressure so it doesn't suck dust from any crevices.
I have four of them in a push pull setup on a rad mounted vertical at the front of of a P400. The static pressure is enough to overcome the P400's terrible air flow without having to upgrade to the P400a's mesh front panel. I use Noctua NF 140s for exhaust though because while you can mount a mag lev fan any way you want and not worry too much, they still don't like being horizontal anyways.
@@ZoneXV I have ML120s, maybe the 140 are louder? Anyway, I have one Cooler Master fan that came with the CPU cooler, and it's all I can hear. On a previous build I went full Cooler Master because it had ARGB and never again will I make the mistake of building a turbojet instead of a PC.
ML fans are the bomb, couldn't believe how quiet my PC was the first time I booted it up. If it weren't for the RGB I wouldn't be able to tell if its on or not during idle.
@@ZoneXV the ML fans are sensitive to the torque of the screws, they can't be too tight, too loose, and they all have to be close... My ML140 was a little more sensitive than the 120s are, but you can still make the 120s have the same noise. All mine no longer have any noise other than the air itself.
To eliminate "splashback", only use fans in a pull configuration, Duh! Pull air into a case, (filter then fan, or, (filter then radiator then fan) plus an equal number of unobstructed fans pushing air out of the case.
7 of the corsair maglev fans that iv been using since 2017, have been and counite to be awesome! Before maglev I was, and on other computers that I owned since 2017 "after purchasing the maglevs for my main PC" having fan noise at least 8 months to at best 2 years no matter the barring type. my environment- house; PC's live on first floor on a desk. home mostly open concept with an Honeywell air purifier hepa filter in the next room, no smokers, and I regularly"2-3 times a year" take my pc's apart and use filtered compered air from my compressor. pc's are on 24/7
when i was rocking a bulldozer fx8350 it was quite hot, so i took out my cases rear fan and took an old commercial all metal Kirkland brand fan that my family has had for 2 or 3 decades now and hooked up a large air duct hose from it to the pc to suck out the hot air, worked great but you know it was loud. The first version of this (before i found the perfect size duct hose) was tapping sheets of galvanized metal to make the a cone shape to connect from the back to the fan, it worked well too but looked so bad it was hilarious.
Suggestion: I think a playlist with videos geared towards first-time builders/people just getting into this would be amazingly helpful, as a lot of the time we don't even know what questions we need answered
I thought about making one with all of his videos
This would be pretty cool to see. Im a fairly experienced builder and even still I'll watch videos and hear terms thrown around about simple parts that idk what theyre talking about
After seeing this video, I kinda wish Jay would make a video with visuals to explain bearings better.
New people are prolly not gonna follow as well without some type of visual
@@ColorMehJewish I do agree for the new to pc people or people without the mechanical background to understand the bearing types.
Oh yes please i dont know anything about pcs
Incase anyone needs clarity on the fluid vs liquid: a fluid is anything that can flow, in this case air, while a liquid is a state of matter.
Right. All liquids are fluids, but not all fluids are liquids.
all gases and plasmas are fluids. basically if it's not solid it's fluid.
You beat me to it, when Jay said air is a liquid (when he clearly meant fluid) the pedantic portion of my brain nearly exploded.
Right, liquid, gas, and plasma are all fluids.
Plasma's a real bitch to deal with tho, as anyone who's trying to design a fusion reactor will tell you. One of the most apt metaphors I've heard for how difficult it is to use magnetic fields to confine plasma is "It's like trying to contain Jello using only rubber bands".
I wish the best of luck to the people working on the ITER project, but I have more hope for inertially confined designs at least initially.
Additionally, liquids are generally incompressible, where gas can be compressed, which significantly changes flow characteristics
i’ll just say that i’m a big fan
Damn that was pretty cool
do you oscillate and blow
😒
@@LilTachanka perhaps
@Muuni - I agree this was FANtastic
There is a hybrid bearing used by Noctua. The self-stabilizing oil-pressure bearing (SSO bearing) is a blend of the fluid bearing and maglev bearing. With Noctua's 6-year warranty, they seem to last longer than many fluid bearing fans, and the maglev component should help with all orientations.
I have a NF-P12 from 2008 and he is still running without a bearing noise. The fan ran ~100'000h over the years in my server. Thats why iI have only Noctuas in my PC.
@@H1zN Have two NF-A8 in my PA amp since 09. Zero complaints. That amp runs pretty warm and eats dust like crazy. Without me cleaning it, that thing would look like a vacuum cleaner dust bag. On top of that, the amp gets used outside in the hot summer sun too. Inside can get up to toasty 60-70C.
Love the nf-p12, but the ones I have from that era that were vertically mounted (blowing air out/in the side/backs of the case) started to make noise last year. The ones that were mounted to the top are still 100%.
Not sure why you would want a fluid in a maglev bearing, but ok. You already have low friction with the maglev, introducing a fluid will only cause more friction.
@@Jalahr77 you raise an interesting point. I'm only speculating but perhaps this cuts down build costs of a full maglev bearing while allowing a lesser maglev system to split the workload with a smaller amount of fluid than typically used in a full fluid system. This way neither component bears the brunt of the workload, perhaps lengthening the lifespan of each component. I'm suggesting this due to the competitive cost of the Noctua Redux line and how full maglev bearings are regarded as some of the most expensive.
Noctua fans have impressed me. Silent and efficient.
have you look the new T20 from Phanteks????just saying!!!
They are amazing … but that god awful color.
@@shinyvarnish its fortunate that Noctua finally has a redux and chromax line. All they were missing before was aesthetic appeal. Now they have it!
And lasting forever.
Not the best fans anymore but they're definitely top for customer service and qc
Jay: Does a whole video on fan types and what the differences are
Also Jay: Just buy the one that's cheap and looks cool 😎
I mean, it's a fan. Being cool is it's job. ;)
@@Triaxx2 Here I thought that having hot fans was preferred, someone needs to tell this to all those cool famous people.
I'll take the loudest server fan possible plz.
lol so true man for my build I bought cheap 120mm with blue led and each one only cost 7.50 euro!
and I put 3 fans in the front and kept the stock fan on the back because my case glass on the sides is tinted black so you can't really look inside xD
You can take Jay out of the hood, but you can't take the hood out of the Jay.
I almost died when you talked about the fluid bearing causing wobble and smacking it is a temporary fix. I had shitty cheap fans in my old rig and had that issue so i was always smacking my case on startup. You bringing that up was a blast from the past.
I actually just recently had one of my LianLi SL120s that had that happen, not even a year old, thank god for manufacturer warranty! Those are annoying to find.
My laptop currently does this and began doing it after I dropped it once- now I know how to get it fixed
@@pyraffin You'll probably have to get replacement fan to fix that. You can usually find replacement fans for even pretty obscure laptop models online but just finding someone who knows how to do it might be the issue
My coolermaster HAF tower did that. The 200mm fans died one by one, and I would smack them all the time to fit it.
Jay, I am loving the content this month! So helpful.
could say your a fan
@@redpacg5128 that was terrible
So helpful is an understatement
Absolutely killing it this month
Yeah! Fairly informative
I spent way more time researching fans than any other component for my current build. Case is Thermaltake Core X9.
Front intake: two 200mm Thermaltake,
Top exhaust: one 360 Corsair AIO, plus three 140mm Thermaltake,
Right intake: three 140mm Thermaltake,
Bottom intake: one 120mm Thermaltake,
Rear exhaust: two 140mm Thermaltake.
I totaled the advertised CFM, subtracted 10% for variance, and came up with approximately 520 CFM for intake, 540 CFM for exhaust. I'm not sure how relevant that info is compared to actual airflow. Time and testing will tell.
Fair winds and following seas to all.
Five year old build with a couple GPU upgrades along the way. I splurged and used the fans that came with the case. Still using the same fans. I bought a pair of Noctuas, but never really needed them. Jay is right. Knowledge is King and don't go crazy worrying about fans.
Then you get into server and rack equipment fans, where you're spinning a tiny little fan at like 20k RPM, with 6 of those in a single unit. Pretty much sounds like a jet taking off.
Kinda want that when I get a house one day
I miss the sounds of server racks. So much so, every fan runs at 100% in all my rigs. Something about it is so soothing.
@@WahlVids - That's terrible for your hearing...
Thinking about server rack fans makes my ears bleed
I love it!
Dell Slim Rack mounted server sounds like a Jet taking off every time you turn it on.
The increased sweep at the end of the new static pressure fans is to lower the noise caused by the fan. The majority of fan noise is generated by the resistance at the tip (the fastest moving part of the fan). Increasing the sweep right at the tip lowers the resistance at that point while increasing the resistance where the sweep reduces closer to the hub. It also has the effect of increasing static pressure, but the main purpose of that exaggerated sweep right at the end is to reduce noise.
Love this idea - to come back and discuss things you already have from years ago. As a noob to the PC building world I have learned a TON from this channel!!! Jay has educated me on things I had absolutely no idea about, thus increasing my desire to get more into computer building.
Great channel, excellent explanations and would LOVE to see more of these videos re-addressing past topics!
Just letting you know, JTC-production, that the dialogue sounds slightly panned to the left, by say 15-20% from center (I can hear it and see it on a meter), and it has been like this for at least months now. - Not a huge deal, but either there's a pan-setting in the editor off-center or there's something wrong with a contact in the recording-gear.
Yeah, i've noticed too. Hopefully they see this but it's not a big deal really.
or the editor needs a hearing test due to all the construction lol. my left ear tested 5dB better than my right, for example. could be dying headphones too.
i've not noticed it myself but i squash to mono and compress/normalise audio on youtube with breakaway anyway cause everybody levels/peaks/dynamics stuff differently
Addition: Mag-Lev fans are also easier to drive. I had a Corsair Air 540 with an MSI Z97 motherboard. The 1 rear + 2 top fans were on a single header and it wouldn't power them all. Doing that same configuration with Mag-Lev fans enabled that one header to power all of them.
While possibly true, it also depends on how much power the fan itself needs and and what the header can provide. If you switched from 3, as jay points out, 0,35A fans to 3 0,25A fans than it doesn't matter if they are maglev or bb or fluid, they WILL now all run.
Obviously I can see the frictionless maglev fans needing very little power to run compared to any other bearing type, so I'm not denying that.
I have a Cooler Master Storm Sniper case that has a 200 mm fan mounted on the side. Fan has been running silently every single day for 11 years. Best case/fans I’ve ever had.
I have a Cooler Master HAF case with a pair of 200 mm fans. Both still work fine after 7 years of use.
cooler master 200mm fan on a home-cut acrylic side panel still running since end of 2014, it's not running max speed tough 500rpm, was pretty much mandatory for "good old" sli
I just want to thank JayzTwoCents and the things i've learned from this channel through the years. Keep up the good work guys!
On the NZXT fan, I love how Jay basically says that the fan is horrible in any NZXT case.
200mm fan motor wearing out? What's the power load? 4 pin only, not 4-pin fan power connectors or a 6-8 fan pin power connector on the mobo as power bandwidth on one connector usually works in software controls on the motherboard here for PC case cooling? Does it need more power to run it correctly here, as the more significant the motor, the more power it usually needs here, like your can fan on your radiator or a car engine?
@@john-paulhunt2604 you okay man
Dont't know about that but I swapped mine out anyway.
@@john-paulhunt2604 bro relax lol, he's referring to how Jay said that those types of fans are not good at pulling air around obstructions or off of side air panels which is pretty much all of NZXT's cases lol
This wasn't boring at all, this was very interesting! I didn't know there was so much science behind it and this ist so cool that you made a video about this topic.
To your question at the end of the video, i have 5 "PC Cooler" Fan (Those cheap one Kyle(Bitwit) Showed. Hydraulic bearing is what those fan turn on. I have them since */04/2018. They still run smoothly, no weird noise coming from them. The only thing that has failed is some Blue LED that got dimmer.
I also have 2 Cooler Master fan from my AIO... Horrible noise since day 1 coming out of them if the RPM is past 1500
I've had my Antec 1200 case for years and years now, I can't even remember exactly how long but it was a new case at the time. It's so old I had to go to Antec direct to source the USB 3.0 upgrades to refresh the front I/O and I paid a ridiculous price to do it too. I was surprised they still even had spares since all they seem to do nowadays is fans and even those are few and far between. But, I digress, from the day I bought the case until today I've run the stock fans (5x 120mm, 3x front and 2x rear and 1x 200mm fan on top - I think they are all ball bearing) and not a single one has failed, gone weird, needed to be replaced, or started making weird noises (In this I hit the fan lottery jackpot). We are talking at least 8 years. It's an admittedly ancient case with non of the mod-cons I'd like, such as a basement, cable routing channels, the fans themselves are still MOLEX so it's manual fan controls for each individual fan... but I can honestly say I think the case and the fans will outlast me, and I'm 34. I would love to upgrade to a new case along with new components whenever I can actually afford such frivolities in these weird and trying times; but you know, I think I'd miss the old girl stood ten feet tall on my desk if I ever did replace her. At this point though the Antec 1200 is like your Skunkworks; 1. A museum piece and, 2. they just don't build 'em like that anymore.
I also have an original Antec 1200 Gaming tower (has to be at least 12 years old). I have had to replace all the 120mm fans, but that 200mm blowhole fan keeps on going and going. I did end up using 120mm fans that I plug directly into the mainboard instead of using the manual controls for the fans provided with the case originally. Basically the same setup, 3 x 120mm pulling air in the front through the filters and 2 x 120mm pushing out the back, plus the 200mm blowhole pushing out the top. I have not bothered swapping the front I/O, since I never plug in anything there that needs more than plain old USB 1. I love this case, even with some of it's pain points (SO MANY THUMBSCREWS).
I agree. I have a Ryzen system but I still use my Coolermaster Storm Trooper case. Its big, its heavy, its built like a tank. I haven't found an other case I like. Tempered glass isn't for me and I like big cases. I even run a 280mm AiO in it up top.
Antec 900 here, the little brother checking in, I had a 2 blades break when cleaning it , considering it lasted this long it is my favorite case from my childhood and will not ever get rid of it, I replaced it with a thermaltek fan drilled new mounting points and bolted it in , it doesnt have a speed setting anymore but it works!! still the antec 1200/900/whateverthesmallonewas, hold my opinion as one of the best airflow cases.
Antec used to build durable hardware but the quality is gone now. With manufactured obsolescence and corporate greed, we get stuff that doesn't last even a year no matter the price bracket. The amount of e-waste and rare earth metal wastage will come to bite us back hard...
I used an Antec 900 for my midrange gaming PC for around 14 years straight, lol. I just took parts out, upgraded them, and put them back in for every upgrade.
I've been using same 5 Noctua NF-F14 fans in my systems for the past 10+ years, at the time paying around $25 each for them seemed outrageous but the fact they have lasted this long spinning countless hours probably has been one of my better PC investments.
Jay could you do this for every part of PC? It would help a lot to people who are new to PC builds and stuff
How would you do anything like this for all parts?
@@slyguybry8582 how mobo works, what to look at it?
Ram speed latency?
@@user-sx6rm9uu7q i think those two would make a very short video, but yes, it is possible.
Now, how could you do a video like this about the: CPU, GPU, PSU, hard drive, case?
@@user-sx6rm9uu7q that’s all available on the internet?
Learn to research ?
@@j.b.7133 I've learned a lot from watching youtube videos, don't gatekeep.
Right now I'm running noctua redux fans in my case. Great price and great fans. They're oil bearings and so far I've been happy with them!
Same here! Noctua's self-stabilizing oil-pressure bearing (SSO bearing) system uses fluid and a maglev. It seems like a nice hybrid approach. Hope my fans last without leaking any oil. I am content with my purchase, thanks to the high quality of materials and the 6-year warranty.
you just got my golden buzzer Jay! I really enjoy your tough love approach!
Thanks for the explanation on the bearings, I live in an area with constant sandstorms and I had the suspicion the fans kept failing every few years because of them being fluid bearing and the sand/dust (PM2.5) getting in there.
That would do it. Ball bearing fans could also fail over time if they aren't sealed properly, or if sand works its way into the balls over time and you have crushed up fine dust all over inside. Maglev all the way.
@@bluephreakr Also for people that live in very cold conditions maglev would be better over the other three
I've been living in a renovation home for a bunch of years. With all the dust, I could just see the fans dying left and right. Upgraded to Noctua's industrial line of fans, some are rated for IP67. 5years later still going strong. Even washed them in the sink between builds 😅
That said, consider getting a HEPA filter for your home. After all, *you're* breathing that dusty air too.
@@fat_pigeon Had never seen anything like that here, just dunno maybe if it doesn't heat up the house more and is expensive I could see it being useful thanks
Here we just tend to seal the upper sides of windows and doors and put wet towels where they meet the frames to "catch" without letting sand/dust or volcanic ash (we're going through a volcanic eruption in the archipelago so that ain't helping lol) in
I'm a huge fan (pun intended) of the Arctic P12 for everything in my LANCOOL II case (thanks again Jay for the video on that). They can be purchased in packs of 5 for sometimes as little as $25 for the 3-pin 120mm version. I started off buying two for my Kraken X53 and ended up getting ten more to fill my entire case as well as set up the X53 in push/pull (liquid is at 27°C idle right now). They are quieter than the Lian-Li case fans, UNi Fan SL120s, NZXT 120mm fans that came with the X53, and the three shroud fans that used to be on my Strix 3070. I removed the shroud on the 3070 and clipped two of the P12s directly over the OEM heatsink and connected them to the fan headers on the GPU. Using GPU Tweak II to ramp the fans to 100% the P12s keep the card super cold (it's idling at 29°C right now). The P8, P12, and P14 come in many different variations with piggy-backing, PWM, thin, white, super quiet, transparent, RGB, and temperature-controlled. I have them running at 100% all the time and I barely notice they are there. They are optimized for static pressure but work great as case fans as well.
Technical Info - Fan speed: 1800 RPM, Airflow: 56.3 CFM/95.65 m³/h (@ 1800 RPM), Noise Level: 0.3 Sone (@ 1800 RPM), Pin: 3-pin (no reason to go PWM if they are at 100% all the time)
I was planning to buy P12 PWM for every fan slot, but after watching this video I started considering P12 CO (continuous operation), which has dual ball bearing for 2 slots on the top as exhaust.
I guess you could say this video is about... Only Fans
I'll show myself out now
don't forget to subscribe for $5 a month
No, don't go, we need mre people like you.
I wanna see bare betal fans.
I was here looking to make that joke, tip of the hat to you, well played.
sauce for the 4tb file?
This is why I like this channel. Every once in a while Jay does these basic fresher videos about stuff that we take for granted.
Maybe you take it for granted, but don't speak for everyone. Each piece of my build is just as important as the pieces around it, and are treated with the same level of respect
Probably would be good to say that there are many different names for the same bearing: Fluid Dynamic Bearing (FDB) may also be called a Rifle Bearing or Hydro Dynamic Bearing (HDB) depending on manufacturer. This bearing in any of its variations is overall superior to the "sleeve bearing" which implies no rifling system to keep the fluid in motion.
in reality, it's everything just about luck, sleeve fan can be better than some fancy noctua, but it can be even terrible
I had a CM HAF case that had one 200mm intake in the front and one 200mm exhaust in the top and it was a great setup. Both quiet and had amazing airflow. It’s actually still running today with the original fans in a machine I built for my Dad. It’s probably 10+ years old at this point.
Exactly the same - CM Haf bought when they first came out, side mounted 200mm fan, been run pretty much continuously from day one, zero problems, zero noise issues.
That's nutty, I also have my old rig still in it's old HAF. Never had problems with it. I've been thinking about getting a bigger better case for my next build at first but then I realized the HAF could maybe see the light of day again?
I gotta figure out what the radiator options are for it though... that's gonna be a half headache but surely the info is online somewhere...
@@QuantumConundrum the only issue with building in that case these days is that the front panel only had USB 2.0 ports, although I put a $25 4-port USB 3.0 hub in one of the 5.5 inch bays in the front for my Dad’s rig, so that sort of fixed the problem. Like you said, it’s a monster of a case in terms of internal size. You could easily fit something like a Noctua DH-15 in there rather than a radiator.
@@acegh0st For years I ran it with rads - purely for the quietness that W/C lets you achieve - but for my last build about 12 months ago I decided to give air another go. I'm actually running a DH-15 in it at the mo, along with the stock 200mm in the side, and the stock 120 or 140 in the front.
The only problem I've ever had with that case is that one of the feet on it collapsed !
(HAF 932 ATX)
@@Steve_1401 It's actually pretty funny, because, iirc, the first build I did in this case used one 120mm radiator in the rear fan slot!?! That was when AIOs were a new thing and I think it was a Corsair H60(?) or similar. You'd never consider something like that in such a roomy case nowadays. I was pretty new to building computers, then. With the 2 x 200mm fans it obviously had ridiculous airflow through the chassis, though. Nowadays, I think it has a basic CM H212 EVO Black CPU cooler in it, cooling an i7 3770k. Video card is a GTX1060 6GB. Its a basic machine for modern gaming, but my dad mostly plays stuff like World of Tanks and and WOWS, so it works fine, even at 1440 res.
The Lian Li 215 case comes with 2 x 200mm argb fans in the front.
I really like that case for a lot of reasons. My current rig is sitting in one and it's the third one I've built in, overall
Yeah i'm also using a lancool 215 atm, and it is fantastic. Plenty of cooling, nice looks and pretty quiet when configured correctly
I have one too, very cool case, although I plan on swapping to a 011 mini and giving the 215 to my gf
Lovely case to build in as well. Really loving mine.
I had a lancool 215. That things dust filter didn't work for me and I don't live in a dusty area or have my window open like ever. Also the 200mm fan started to do what he said and rattle until I smacked it after 3 months. Great case and looks good though
@@cooleyzz it doesn't have a dust filter. Just a front mesh which isn't very fine at all.
9 yrs old Antec fans still going strong. on 3rd build in this case. 3 120's and ball bearing "big boy 200"
2 years later....So happy I found this video on the list. I had lots of fan questions. Now I can resume building. Thank you!
I am running several Noctua NF-P12 redux for my general case fans. Bought them in October 2019, they are 2 years old now and still going strong! Currently they are the best fans I have ever owned, and only cost me about $12 a fan.
Can’t wait too see gn’s testing on this subject
I suspect Arctic F12 PWMs to do very well considering their price. $40 for a pack of 5. They are really good cheap fans that last a decent life-cycle for a PC. They are a hybrid design for airflow/pressure but seem to do as good or better than more expensive fans in their same performance range.
@@JosephArata I can get a pack of p12 for around 20€ + shipping here in Italy.
@@JosephArata You mean P12/14
@@mab2187 P14 are whiny at around 700-900 RPM.
@@kyoudaiken I've only bought one 5 pack of P14 but none of them are whiny. I used them to replace a bunch of dusty fans, which are ashamedly still sitting in the arctic box just as dusty as the day I switched them.
Great video. I went through this fan game a couple months back when I was buying all new fans for a new rig I was building, it was hard getting concrete answers to a lot of what you brought up. Thanks for Jaytober!!!
It's wild how someone like myself can know much about PCs while still knowing close to nothing about the simpler things. Good stuff Jay
You have to be a pretty sick individual to get into the weeds or fans. I went there and wound up with Kaze Flex fans and am happy for them, but man am I digusted with myself for how much time I wasted on the subject. Also, I think Corsair fans are obnoxious. I used to only go by max performance, now I'm more about performance at the lowest pleasant noise levels and tuning the fans down. This is by far my favorite setup and it didn't cost a fortune. I was so close to getting the NB eLoops but $120 on some fans seemed a bit silly when I saw it in the shopping cart. Haha
I am using Corsair AF and SP maglev fans I bought back in early 2016 (6 years almost) and they are still going strong on my cases and AIOs. Not to mention they produce a lot less noise. Well worth the cost.
I used to have my whole case full of the af and sp fans but got noises. I've now got it full of the maglevs and they are such a game changer! Unbelievably quiet and effective. Certainly sticking to then from now on
Nothing wrong with going back to basics.
true
Very informative video Jay, I've been running Mag Lev fans for the past year or so with zero issues and very quiet. Glad to hear I have years to look forward to with them!
I switched to the Corsair ML series on my first build after they came out, and they're all I use now for both the case and radiator fans. They're quite loud at 100%, but they can be easily run at 50-75% very quietly and still move quite a bit of air. Plus, I can get them without RGB :)
Jay, I appreciate the fact that you take the time to do videos such as this one. Just because a lot of us might know this, there are more people than we know that don't. So you taking the time to cover a spectrum of people is awesome. Keep it coming. Even if we know it. It's could to be refreshed on certain topics anyway!
I have been using Arctic P12 and P14 fluid "dynamic" bearing fans since about 2020 in my builds and have yet to have any failures from any of them, and at their cost (about $10 US each I think)I am very impressed, not much to look at though, but they keep my PCs cool. I have about 10 of them from 2020, run them about 4-8 hrs a day on average. Very quiet too which is always a plus.
Fun fact: you can fit 3 40mm server fans in a cd bay slot. Is it loud? Yep is it effective? Kinda. Is it stupid? Yep was it fun? Yep, fans go brrrrrrrrrrr
I've revived several fans by pulling the sticker back and pulling sewing machine oil in. The price to replace fans is stupid expensive it's worth reviving the old ones where possible
Same. Still running good 24/7 after a few years.
Not sure if Q20 is a global product but yeah that saved my CM 200mm fan
Jay: "Air is a liquid"
Me: "So are we just land fish with lungs as gills then?"
Yes, yes we are
3rd man: I don't use RGB as it increases power draw here.
Air is a fluid, which Phil fixed by putting that text onscreen when Jay said liquid (**fluid)
I was tempted to go the whole solid/liquid/gas argument...
But after a couple of beers, I realised alcohol was a solution and a problem so I didn't bother
Liquid air would keep your system very cool.
Well I’ve got quite a hodgepodge of fans in my rig, 1 Noctua, 1 Arctic, 1 Thermaltake, 1 cheap Corsair and 2 be quiet! fans on my AIO. So far so good, they all work well.
Have you noticed any sound difference between the Noctua and Arctic?
@@phoenixfire8978 I can't really compare the Noctua and the Arctic F12 120mm as the Noctua is a 700RPM airflow fan and the Arctic is a static airpressure fan but in saying that I find the speed I can run the Arctic before it's annoying is quite high. And it seriously moves air, I have it as top intake on my Thermaltake Core V21 over the graphics card.
i remember watching your channel when you were " new" like 6 years ago, you were the cause that made me build my pc, now i am about to build a new pc. Cheers jay!!!
Thank you very much. Just built a new computer. I used 5 Noctua NF A fans (3x25mm, 2x15mm) costing about US$130. It was an ITX build in a CM NR200 case w/ an RTX 3080 Ti FE (thank you Best Buy), and R9 5900X, plus... I had no problem spending extra on fans to keep it cool. Thanks again.
I've been running Noctua fans for almost 10 years, the most noisy part of my computer are the HDD now, when on idle or light load, then it's the CPU/GPU fans that take over.
Noc's are great fans.....I also use Corsair & Arctic......I switch back & forth between those 3 depending on price ,size,designation of what it's going to be used for and whether I want it to be colored or not.
HDD? :-)
I have some random 12mm fans that were pre-installed on my 40€ Sharkoon case. The HDDs are still the loudest part at idle. Even when my CPU (3700X with a Alpenföhn Ben Nevis cooler) is running at max the HDDs are about as load as that. Heavy gaming usually makes the GPU the loudest part by far though.
@@xuser48 hard disk drive
@@skullofhell1662 - I know. I just can't believe that anyone is still using them in their PC's. My only computer with HDD's is my server and it will be based on SSD's in its next iteration.
I genuinely thought this video was satire, about "top 10 types of pc masterrace fans" and not actual blowing fans! Boy was i happily surprised to see this being an informational video!!
For 200mm fans, Noctua makes a really nice one. I really wish those would come back in vogue for case makers and fan makers - Imagine a 400mm radiator!
I really wish Jay covered the difference between 3-pin voltage control fans vs. 4-pin PWM fans. Many cases still has non-PWM 3-pin fans as the stock fans, so it would be nice to help the newbies who are confused as to why their case stock fans are different looking from the 4 pin fans, and why they can't use PWM signals to control their fans.
So should I buy sort of cheap case with preinstalled RGB 3-pin fans, or Buy non-rgb case and buy 4-pin RGB fans?
I have been using Corsair's Air Series White LED (AF140 3x) and (SP140 3x) fans for 5 years now. All 6 fans are sleeve bearing. 2 have been mounted horizontal and 4 vertical for all 5 years, no issues whatsoever. Dust environment is above average but case filters are cleaned every 3-6 months and fans are dusted off about every 1-2 years. Very happy with them considering i paid $85 for all 6 fans in 2017.
A topic that is often ignored, but still important. Good thing it was refreshed. Thanks.
My cooling set is mounted on Case TT Core P5 (open case). On Ryzen 3600 is CPU cooler Raijintek Leto Pro RGB 120mm. A set of 3pack fan Raijintek Macula 12 Rainbow RGB is mounted perpendicular to the frame of the computer case, from up to down - the fans only have to set the air in motion. They cool down the x570 chipset, among other things, and therefore its chipset fan turns on less often. It also everything looks pretty good - a little like a small reactor :)
Noctua fans in traditional brown. So far, I've never had a Noctua fan fail on me. Some has run 24/7 for nearly five years without a hiccup. In fact, I have a box with older Noctua fans from prior builds that were still running fine when I was ready to decommission the computer.
Same here with Glacialtech fan from 2008-2009 that made in China. So what? It's mean 5-8 years for good fan is nothing.
Great content! I always enjoy the simple stuff that sometimes in my head isn't so simple. It's nice to get refreshers and new people in the space to get some pointers.
Was hoping he’d talk about the kind of fans/bearings inside of GPU fans and if having a GPU mounted vertically makes a difference in their lifespan
I was hoping that you'd understand that he did.
Get out of the fridge and look up the spec of the card on the manufacturers site.
You already chose asthetics over functionality when you extended the circuit paths between your GPU and CPU and PSU.
Why bother with Science now?
@@truthsRsung bruh get a life, get a job, just do something to make u happy. not just shit talk people lmfao
@@subhan4883 when you look at yourself and decide it is better not to speak
Thank you jay for telling why I have one noisy fan, I live in a dry dusty region and it's a vertical mount... it hasn't died yet but now I know what to shop for when it does!
I use CORSAIR A500 High Performance Dual Fan CPU Cooler and love it. no issues and out does most AIO coolers on the market right now. been running for over a year with it and no issues and keeps the CPU cooled.
I watched some reviews and went with Arctic (140mm since that's what my case uses). They've compared well with Noctuas in tests. They are quiet, keep things cool, and were easy to wire. I paid around $45 for a 5 pack. They have a 7 year warranty, but at that price, if one fails I'll just put in a new one and not worry about it.
Same for me. I just put Arctic P12 PWM PST CO (included splitter and better bearing) everywhere.
Arctics are the go-to budget fan for achieving decent temps for the money spent, *BUT they have a **_terrible_** sound profile* -- at three different RPM ranges they sound like three different brands of fans.
An irregular sound profile is worse than simply being loud -- a loud but consistent sound profile will eventually get ignored by your brain. A constantly changing sound profile as temps change in your case will be continually noticed by your brain, forever.
Ultimately, this is the reason Arctics are cheap.
@@CognizantCheddar I've not noticed this as an issue, but my fans rarely go above 70%.
@@CrimFerret you're just about avoiding two of the three RPM ranges in which the sound profile changes, then, so sounds like Arctics are good for you.
For me, the whole point of a pwm fan is to use its entire rpm range, but to each their own
Loving these daily uploads and your Halloween series, these videos are really helpful and fun to watch Jayz.
i have the cheapest of the chepaest fans from Silentium PC, working great still on almost fuul speed, only 1 from my top case start to ratlinf little, puting him on front and rattling ended, like u said those bearings dont like to be face down;)
Most recently I use mainly Corsair 120mm ML fans and the longest I've had one has been about 18 months with zero issues.... pricy and NOT the quietest option even on super-low speed but very high quality with excellent airflow & static-pressure. (plus pretty ARGB)
In the past I've gotten BY FAR the best results from Aerocool Shark fans. (120/140mm - Fluid-Dynamic bearing) I have several blue LED models that are over 10 YEARS old, have been running close to 24/7 for the entire time and are as quiet/smooth as the day they were first installed. (never tried on an AIO/rad)
I've also had good luck with Cooler Master 120mm "Sickle-Flow" fans (sleeve-bearing/fixed blue LED) for a more affordable option at around $9 each and they do fine on my 240mm Corsair AIO on my backup FX system. Noctua I've never had a problem with either but they've also never really impressed me all that much considering their high-ish price and (until recently) baby-poop brown color scheme.
My fan-configuration: I have two Arctic Cooling BioniX F140s as intakes (blowing right onto the GPU) and two P140s as exhausts in the top. - Then there's one BitFenix 200m as an intake in the front and one 120mm fan by DeepCool that has an interesting "double blade" design which came with a DeepCool AIO.
These are some of the best I could find in terms of price to performance, not only performance in airflow/pressure but also noise. Do note I use them at lower speeds to also keep them quiet, but that's why I use multiple larger ones. - I would honestly use a few more, but it doesn't fit in my particular case, unfortunately.
As for the environment, the humidity is almost always average. The room can get quite dusty, but I try to vacuum and dust off every week, also cleaning off the outside of the case and its fans. - I tend to not let it get too dusty, cause it's just not good and I'm not gonna let that happen to an expensive device.
I'm not sure how they will last, but probably quite a few years considering I've had worse ones with much more dust that still worked fine after more than half a decade, and now I'm keeping more premium ones cleaner. - I've only had the Arctic ones for months now, but the DeepCool one has been running for hours almost every day for almost 2 years now and it's one of the most whisper-quiet fans I've heard. I mean, I really have to try to hear it, though again at lower speeds.
I will also vouch for bequiet!, of which I had a few fans in the 2010s, and I temporarily stripped one from an older build, but it was doing well despite having been used for years in a rather dusty case that sat near the floor. I will say that the pins they use to jam into their rubber corners break easily (at least now, so maybe the plastic dried), but with some careful wiggling they will be fine.
Now, if only they could do something about GPU-fans... I have an idea, but I'll need a company to try it out and get it from me. - If you see something weird in terms of GPU-cooling pop up in the next few years, you're welcome, whether you like it or not.
My cool master HAF case has 2 200mm fans still going 10 years later :)
I think you got mixed up here. By “fluid bearing” being the worst I think you mean “Hydro Bearing” or whatever they use to hide the cheap sleeve bearing. True Fluid Dynamic Bearings are the best. Sleeve Bearings are the worst. Sleeve bearings are affected by orientation, not true fluid bearings. Noctuas and Be Quiets! are fluid bearings. They don’t suck.
also i'm not sure if he mixed up the information, but according to gamernexus's post Sleeve bearing fans are the one that shouldn't be mounted horizontally, with FDB bearing fine with either direction
Noctua uses fluid and maglev components. I love mine!
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@ZIV Nice reply. I rewatched that bit again and I’m cringing. Not to be mean, but he really should take this down as he’s basically telling everyone to go by sleeve bearing fans. He mixed up SO much.
Maglev for the win. I've been running these (the ML140) since they were released in August 2016, and still have had no issues. I moved these from one computer to another and they're still going.
I’ve been building computers for about 20 years and this video is gold. Fans have become more important over the years and I’ll admit that my knowledge on them was pretty limited prior to this video (other than being able to reference marketing material).
I like the style and pragmatism with which you explain the PC world
You are very good
I thought FBD fans were generally better than sleeved, or has the times changed? Also from what I've read rifle and FBDs are essentiall marginally different solutions to the same problem (even lubrication), I've heard that some companies will even market rifle fans as FBD designs (technically not false). Ball bearings are definitely the longevity king though, for a personal pc you're more likely to replace them from increased noise with age rather than it actually failing.
They are. I love Jay but he doesn’t know what he’s talking about here.
He was wrong on mounting orientation of fan types. HDB works any orientation.
I have been wondering what happened to the AF and SP fans. Thank you for finally clearing that up for me.
currently running nothing but Noctua NF-F12 and F14 3000 rpm fans in my small NR200. Probably overkill, but they move a lot of air at low speeds so they don't get loud.
What do fluid bearings and walruses have in common?
Theyre both looking for a tight seal 😆👍
That reminds of that joke - "What's the difference between a Hybrid car driver and a Hedgehog?" - "On the Hedgehog the pricks are on the outside"!
Read this comment halfway through the video. Chuckled every time he said seal after that.
Oh, the pain, the pain!
And to Wild Bill,
"That's Mr. Prick, Sir."
😁
Is your walrus into beastiality?
U guys crack me up w some of these responses 🤣👍
This info is priceless. Two fans which have never given out on me are Noctua w/ SS0 bearings and Corsair with Maglev, the extra money is worth it.
I filled my Corsair 5000D airflow case with Noctua Redux fans. The two-tone gray fans look amazing with the white and gray case. I'm so glad I returned my brittle and cheap-feeling Arctic fans. I'm also running two Noctua chromax fans on a Noctua dual cooling tower.
Gonna be honest when he asked the question about what are we using in our rigs, i realized i had no idea.. I've never built a super high end system and i never overckock so things like water cooling were never a factor. Doing additional research and watching his videos and linus on case air cooling im not even sure which direction (exhaust versus intake) my add on fans are facing. Learned a lot today from old videos. Thank you!
As expensive as they are, I've recently become a fan of the be quiet! Silent Wing series. I have two SW3 140 (exhaust) and two SW3 High Speed 140 (intake) fans in my system with the 'Turbo' fan speed setting on my Asus motherboard, and they are the quietest fans I've ever had. Fan manufacturers used to compete with performance, but anno 2021, it all comes down to silence, imo.
You want more intake fans than exhaust fans
@epriley891 you can manipulate pressure using fan curves. Just need to know cfm at each rpm and take it from there. Also his intake says high speed so i guess its higher cfm at the same rpm of the exhaust fans.
Thinking about going with the ARCTIC P12 5-pack for $30 on Amazon.
Optimum Tech used them in a NR200 build with a 3070 FE a while back, and he seemed pretty satisfied with the performance
I'm working on a $800 build at the moment with i7-11700 and RX 480 (just a placeholder) so these should be good enough for now.
Misleading thumbnail: I wanted a video about fanboy genres.
Just finished my build 3 months ago and decided on installing 9 Lianli SL120 fans because of their looks and less cable management. Didn’t know they are fluid bearing, now 2 of the 9 fans started to make loud noises. Both were placed horizontally, swapping one with vertical ones did make one of them stop. Just can’t believe the built quality lasted only 3 months. Switching to ball bearing!
My chassi is Haf922. the 3x200mm(ball bearing) are alive since november 2009.
cleaning inside few times a year, and chassi(panels) is colder than room temp.
rear noctua 120mm(SSObearing).
cpu has NH-C12P SE14 the 140mm(SSObearing) round frame. and thanks to Am4 mounting it works as it did 10years ago.
so i have the Lian Li DK 04F and wondering what fans i should put in it.
i can do 7 fans (120mm) or 6 (140mm fans). i have 4 intake in the front atm and 3 exhaust in the rear atm
or should i get 140mm fans and do 3 intake 3 exhaust.
I’d do 3x3. The 140mm will have more airflow usually. I’d make sure you put the in and out on different pwm’s tho so you can make the exhaust slightly slower. It’d also be best if all the fans are the same make.
Do 3x3 140mm fans
@@rawr7505 i always have my fans at a set rpm since it’s a desk.
@@afkNate ty.
@@RathOX np
I got 3 thin static noctuas in front of my PC, meshify C, and two Corsairs on my 240mm radiator. My room is very dusty, but I never had issues with my fans because of that. I needed the thin noctuas because the 2070S GPU is too long for the "default" corsair fans.
You could have talked about 3-wire vs. 4-wire connectors and how to know which fans are controllable by the MoBo. And RGB/aRGB would be helpful. I'm currently working on a new build but I paused while I'm learning about all this (never had RGB before). So this video is timely for me and it's good (about air flow), but it's lacking.
Running 6 Swiftech Helix 120 fans in the pull arrangement on 2 Swiftech MCR320QP rev 2 radiators plumbed in parallel.
All water cooling components, except the cpu and gpu blocks are external to the pc case. Running 2 Swiftech MCP655 pumps in series.
The above items have been running in a garage (non cooled / unfiltered - Inland Empire CA) environment 24 / 7 since 1/1/2013 !
I built my first PC almost 10years ago and still use some of the fans. Not a single fan died so far. But I remember my confusion about what fans to buy so this video would have been super great back then!!
I'm struggling to pick between these 2 fans, anyone have experience with them?
- Noctua NF-A12x25 (chromax version finally released last week)
- LianLi UniFan AL120 (also released this year, updating on the SL120)
so from what I've researched these Noctuas are the state of the art (though phanteks t30 is arguable), but AL120 seems to be close enough (and has that RGB lighting).
Basically I dont care about a few degrees temps but do care about noise - are the AL120s quiet enough? I'm concerned cause it looks like you cant run them below 800RPM?
@Will I can only speak to my experience. I initially filled my new PC build with Arctic fans because they were rated high and had a 10-year warranty. But as soon as I opened the boxes I felt how brittle and cheapy they were to the touch, plus their color wasn't consistent with the 120 and 140mm sizes (bright white for the small ones and creamy white for the bigger ones).
I returned them all and picked up Noctua fans from their Redux line. They feel very high quality and durable, and they run almost completely silent unless they're at full speed-and even then it's just a soft whisper. I highly recommend Noctua!
As a side note, all the static pressure fans I bought were rated up to 1700 RPM, But I later bought Noctua's low noise adapter cables to limit them to 1200 RPM, which is still plenty of cooling power. You can buy Noctua fans at either RPM limit. I hope this helps.
@@Aaron_Lesse yeah noctua is good fans. But if you compare prices of arctic value pack with x5 from noctua...
@@Дмитрий-с3п4ы I know what you're saying. For the price, and a 10-year warranty, a 5-pack of black Arctic fans are hard to beat. Especially so since they seem to be pretty good at moving air efficiently.
@@Дмитрий-с3п4ы with my first PC build, I bought a bunch of white Arctic fans, both 120 mm and 140 mm. The only reason I didn't stick with them is because the color was more yellow white or cream white with the 140 mm fans. The rest of my build was a cool white and for me they stuck out like plastic that was faded in the sun and yellowed.
Okay, now make a video comparing pressure and airflow fans trying to push air through a really dense and thick rad!
He's done a couple of videos demonstrating the differences using radiators before.
The Right Fan:
One that blows well...
I'm a fan 😈
My build currently has 6 Corsair ML-120s with no lighting/RGB on them. I paid $AUD 50 per twin pack so they were not too bad price wise. So far they have lasted 3 years with no issues. Maintenance wise I tend to clean my dust filters every week or two (basically when they start looking dusty) and do a full maintenance (partial teardown, deep dusting and water change) every 6 months or so.
Fitted my Lian Li O11 mini with two Arctic P12 PWN PST Valuepacks. 6$/fan can't beat that. On top of my Vetroo V5 (fitted with two P12's) this means my complete cooling solution came to exactly 90 bucks. Got all the case fans running at a fixed 35% or 730rpm and the CPU fans on a very gentle curve. Almost inaudible and temps are totally under control. Thanks for the recommendations Jay, would definitely buy again.
The fluid pull you mentioned in rifle bearings is called capillary action. Cool video had to replace my psu from a dead non-serviceable fan nice to know more about bearings and such.
Hey Jay, have you ever done testing using air flow and static pressure fans together in the same case? If a air flow case had static pressure, or reverse? what would be the outcome??? I think a mix of 2 types "might" give a different results.
Jay tells you to put your questions down below not because he wants to know what you have to say, he wants you to boost the algorithms by posting on his video.
If you aren’t doing something to make him money, you are worthless to him.
Cooler Master HAF X in service here since 2011...with the original 2 x 200mm and the 240mm front still good. Good chance back in the day they build better, but at least here i had no problems.
They survived several 140mm....
I don't find this a boring subject at all! I watched your last video on it too, and that video taught me what fans I needed for my first wartercooled setup. Hopefully more beginners get help from videos like this. Even as an "old timer" they are entertaining.
they were abit too entertaining
Coming back at this video. Amazing knowledge. I was worried I bought 3 static pressure fans for my pc case and though the newer "air flow" ones were better, but I accidentally got the correct ones. They indeed need to "suck" air through a mesh filter, and I will move the two air flow ones that already came with the case to the exhaust back part that doesn't have any mesh or filter. That's gonna help my pc keep the positive pressure so it doesn't suck dust from any crevices.
Sleeve bearings are the ones that absolutely not appreciate being horizontal while FDB (or fluid) bearings do not mind 😬
Yeah, he said it backwards right?
@@jc.1191 indeed he did.
The Corsair ML fans are awesome, I can't hear them. When you spend so much money on a PC, I think it's worth spending the extra money on nice fans.
I have four of them in a push pull setup on a rad mounted vertical at the front of of a P400. The static pressure is enough to overcome the P400's terrible air flow without having to upgrade to the P400a's mesh front panel. I use Noctua NF 140s for exhaust though because while you can mount a mag lev fan any way you want and not worry too much, they still don't like being horizontal anyways.
@@ZoneXV I have ML120s, maybe the 140 are louder? Anyway, I have one Cooler Master fan that came with the CPU cooler, and it's all I can hear. On a previous build I went full Cooler Master because it had ARGB and never again will I make the mistake of building a turbojet instead of a PC.
@@ZoneXV I've not hear any noise from the bearings on the ML fans but as they spin faster they get louder just from all the air passing through
ML fans are the bomb, couldn't believe how quiet my PC was the first time I booted it up. If it weren't for the RGB I wouldn't be able to tell if its on or not during idle.
@@ZoneXV the ML fans are sensitive to the torque of the screws, they can't be too tight, too loose, and they all have to be close... My ML140 was a little more sensitive than the 120s are, but you can still make the 120s have the same noise.
All mine no longer have any noise other than the air itself.
To eliminate "splashback", only use fans in a pull configuration, Duh! Pull air into a case, (filter then fan, or, (filter then radiator then fan) plus an equal number of unobstructed fans pushing air out of the case.
good idea
7 of the corsair maglev fans that iv been using since 2017, have been and counite to be awesome! Before maglev I was, and on other computers that I owned since 2017 "after purchasing the maglevs for my main PC" having fan noise at least 8 months to at best 2 years no matter the barring type. my environment- house; PC's live on first floor on a desk. home mostly open concept with an Honeywell air purifier hepa filter in the next room, no smokers, and I regularly"2-3 times a year" take my pc's apart and use filtered compered air from my compressor. pc's are on 24/7
when i was rocking a bulldozer fx8350 it was quite hot, so i took out my cases rear fan and took an old commercial all metal Kirkland brand fan that my family has had for 2 or 3 decades now and hooked up a large air duct hose from it to the pc to suck out the hot air, worked great but you know it was loud. The first version of this (before i found the perfect size duct hose) was tapping sheets of galvanized metal to make the a cone shape to connect from the back to the fan, it worked well too but looked so bad it was hilarious.