Dont think you actually read my advice on an earlier video, but hopefully you see this. That turbo manifold will 100% crack. There are no braces, supports, OR (i'm blanking on the word for them) the metal squares or strips welded over the butt welds to increase tensile strength. Please just get the TSE (trackspeed engineering) kit. It is the ONLY option on the market (and obviously even for custom jobs) that has zero chance of failure. Its cast 321 stainless, smooth short runners, locking hardware... Just please do yourself a favor. From one miata money pit owner to another.
TheCarPassionChannel hello Greg. No reroute - although if we lose Qualcomm, I may look into it for Fontana. Hope to see you at a event someday soon. -Harry. Silver '03 #712
My friend with the overheating VVT was running a stock VVT head gasket and a reroute together, that was his problem. Supposedly you have to pick one or the other. The Q may meet its maker at the end of 2018 from what I hear in the BMWCCA talk. El Toro is fun, but the elevation changes at Qualcomm are so unique.
If you have the sump off, it may be beneficial to have the oil return welded on, instead of drilling and tapping? Just a thought👍 Love the build so far, it's going to be a monster
Boosted Miata I want the engine bay to have the same feel as the exterior of the car. Looks somewhat standard, maybe even a little boring, but as you investigate closer you see more and more of what makes it a monster. Nice and clean, not outlandish, but you can tell it means business.
I have a 1.8L on 1997 model with stock engine and planning to keep as stock. I have just under 100,000 miles without any engine issue. I have heard about the cooling reroute and never really understood why until now. I bought Koyorad aluminum rad as an upgrade from stock rad but haven’t installed it yet. I will install it as stock replacement in a month or so when the weather is a bit warmer. Maybe cooling reroute down the road as extra insurance.
FYI ARP lube on the block side is totally not needed, only on the fastener end. If you're worried about them rusting (if any are sealed from oil) you can use anti-seize or just a light grease
I'm building 1.8 99, thanks for mentioned fab9. I toke all main parts from them (love forget candy stuff). Can't wait for next videos. Great work. Greetings from Prague
Hi Greg! I'm really happy to see that your engine build documentation. It gives people a lot of info about their builts. But i wonder smthg about your turbos location. Its too close to your block, so isnt it gives extra heat of your engine and intake section of your turbo? Is it possible to prevent extra heat from there? Thanks from now! Waiting for more... 😎👏
good attention to detail, which usually means a successful engine build. I'm excited bro. also that turbo sure is a bit bigger than the t25s from the previous. Hope it spools well. thanks for the great content.
If you are going for High HP you should change the ARP washers to one that match the size of the head bosses as the ones shipped with headstuds press in to the head bosses and can increase the chance of headlifting then blowing a head gasket
You can actually put the washers on after putting the head on. You can get the wash JUST on the stud and then use a socket and hammer the washer down. It just slips through.
TheCarPassionChannel Hay what's up with the head gasket spray? Iv heard so many people useing it ? It's like a copper glue? Any thoughts 💭 ? Btw building looks awesome so far!
@04:12 another great trick is to use small dab of arp assembly grease to bottom edge of each washer before you use your screwdriver trick. the assembly grease will act as a glue of sorts and prevent your washers from just flopping all over the place while moving and installing your head over the arp head studs ;]
Awesome videos. I've rebuilt V8's, but this is my first foray into the 1.6. I'm very curious why you torque down then loosen then torque again? I've heard you should always lube both sides of the washer to get a consistent torque regardless of the mating surfaces. I think the ARP assembly instructions suggest this. I've also heard you should be very careful when dropping an aluminum head over studs since you can get small filings in the stud threads and potentially change the resistance of the nut when torqueing.
Loving your videos while I get ready to do my first miata rebuild. Do you have a video on the assembly of your head or is there one you suggest? The one in this video is already assembled.
just wanted to say you are doing a great Job with your videos! plus you seem like a good guy. if i wouldnt live in germany i would come over for a visit. Keep it up!
No need to use arp's assembly line on the block side, and you don't need nearly this much. A little bit of engine oil is fine for this. The assembly lube is only for achieving proper torque on the nuts. also, before you put the studs in the block, those threads need to be chased, every time. That's just my 2 ¢, though.
Are you gonna put on an engine torque damper? I'm planning on doing one so I can get some of the benefits without solid motor mounts... I'd love to see your review on it ;p
You do not have to put ARP lube on the thread in the block. It must be put on the upper thread where the nut is going and on the washer. Did you do that?
Damn Greg that is one sexy manifold and turbo setup you got there! I finally got around to make a quick little walk around video of my Miata. You should check it out if you get a chance! Take care brotha! Looking forward to the next vid!
Hello Greg i am kinda new to your channel just wanted to say your videos are really cool and informative. I though i gonna find some infos about your head somewhere but till now i did not. Which head are you using?
You should never "run in" a new set of fasteners on a sealed joint with the metal seal you are going to finish assembly with. Metal seals are one time use and removing the load once they are compressed is a common cause to premature failure. It is best to run them in with an old head gasket then put your new head gasket in only for the final assembly.
don't drill and smooth the intake channels to the engine, I was reading Mazda designed it like that to help with fuel evaporation due to a larger surface area.
The surface itself has not been smoothed/polished. The actual radius that the air travels through has been "smoothed out" so it doesn't have quite as sharp of a "turn" to go through getting into the cylinders.
+preprodigy Are you going to run twin 6258's on a VG? I am super interested to see how they dyno compared to twin 2554's (JWT530). If you end up doing it you gotta hit me up and tell me how you like it!
TheCarPassionChannel thats been the plan! just been counting my pennys getting all the parts lined up. def cant waitnmyself either, your builds def got me stoked to see what one will do on the miata. with the power charts ive seen for these turbos i cant even begin to fathum how nasty there gonna be on the vg. def stoked! great video series brotha and dont worry, i def wil!!!
Hey Greg, where can I find info regarding turboing a Miata in cali? I know you have NA's so I'm guessing over 25 years old but I'm not sure. Can you link me or mind explaining? Thanks Greg
hey greg I have a question what is reasoning to loosening the the and torquing it down again is it to make sure it's properly seated, also what break in procedure are you going with, I was planning on following flyin miatas break in procedure
I've heard that torque specs can be different when lubing a set of threads vs. non-lubed threads. I've always thought using lube or anti-seize on any critical bolt was the way to go, but I read on a forum that torque-ing should be higher (~+10 #/ft.) when lubing threads. Also, do not allow the bottom of the hole to be full of lube (hydraulic resistance) when bottoming out a stud. Anyone's thoughts here???
Last week I change the head gasket and installed ARP studs on my Miata I did the torque sequence but I did not loose the nuts and re-torque them, should I do that even though I already have driven the car?
Hi , I need your help I'm building an engine similar to yours with similar parts, the cylinder head bolts and the crankshaft bolts, pistons, rods... I tried to access the torque specs on your web site but it is not working. Could you send them to me? Or tell me where I can access them? thanks
I thought no one would ever build an engine like this on a TH-cam video and was saving the idea until I can afford it. Damn it! XD Oh well at least I get to see from you before I inevitably miss a step and screw it up. By the way, have you considered Glyptal Coating the inside of your engine? Doesn't seem like there's much benefit into it but it'll make it look like you put a lot of effort into the engine. XD
You learn something new everyday!
Taylor Ray and TheCarPassionChannel?!? My two favorite channels!? Incredible sight to see
What did you learn, Taylor?
I am getting excited! Anyone else getting excited?!!
Moist with anticipation.
Excellent work sir!
Tom's Turbo Garage cool seeing you hear!
Tom! How is your project thunderbolt holding up?
Tom definitely approves of all the torque specs in this episode ;)
Also, a tip when you drop the washers from the screwdriver like that. You can oil the surface the washer sits on, so it stays in place a little better
Dont think you actually read my advice on an earlier video, but hopefully you see this.
That turbo manifold will 100% crack. There are no braces, supports, OR (i'm blanking on the word for them) the metal squares or strips welded over the butt welds to increase tensile strength.
Please just get the TSE (trackspeed engineering) kit. It is the ONLY option on the market (and obviously even for custom jobs) that has zero chance of failure. Its cast 321 stainless, smooth short runners, locking hardware... Just please do yourself a favor.
From one miata money pit owner to another.
Thank you for leaving the sound of the torque wrench clicking when doing the studs +1 for noise satisfaction lol
amazing production quality in these videos. pleasure to watch as always.
BBGaming fr!
It's coming together now, I'm so excited! That turbo fitment is just perfect! Good luck with the last steps of the engine build!
Haha the part with the torque wrench clicking was awesome!
this is my happiness, I've been waiting forever
That turbo mani is in fact a work of art and the turbo setup looks awesome.
Interesting about the vvt head cooking. My 03 autocrosser runs cool as beans. Epic looking motor build!
hsp-sandiego Are you running a reroute on it?
TheCarPassionChannel hello Greg. No reroute - although if we lose Qualcomm, I may look into it for Fontana. Hope to see you at a event someday soon. -Harry. Silver '03 #712
My friend with the overheating VVT was running a stock VVT head gasket and a reroute together, that was his problem. Supposedly you have to pick one or the other. The Q may meet its maker at the end of 2018 from what I hear in the BMWCCA talk. El Toro is fun, but the elevation changes at Qualcomm are so unique.
Well, 1.5 years of autoX is cool... thanks for the insight. Forget the soccer proposal, San Diego needs a track! how epic would that be?
If you have the sump off, it may be beneficial to have the oil return welded on, instead of drilling and tapping? Just a thought👍
Love the build so far, it's going to be a monster
Jon bray agreed that's what I did
NA6 motors have a oil return and feed hole in the block already. ¿VVTIs don´t?
Alejandro Da Costa the 1.8 was originally never turbocharged i believe. it wouldnt have that port
I don´t really know. Now that i´m thinking... maybe the Mazdaspeed NB block could have that holes.
1994 1.8 has an oil supply on the side of the block. No return though, only the 1.6 has that. I have no idea about the mazdaspeed though
The motor is looking awesome! Its good to see you got the right headgasket, so many people don't know there is a difference!
It's so hard to wait for your videos! Keep up the good work. Kinda wanna start my own TH-cam channel too! I got myself a project too
If it wasn't for your channel, I don't think I would've learned so much without actually having to work on a car.. Can't wait to see more videos!!
Love the calm music, it helps add another tasteful flavor to the learning ambiance in your videos. Keep up the great work Greg, LOVIN' IT!!
#snapfam
it's 5 in the morning but fuck it.
Excellent video
Greg I love your channel, I like the way you work on engines very professional and you can see you actually love doing it.
Love the editing in all your videos, Greg.
And dear God that build is looking gorgeous. Well done! Staying tuned
I love the low hang turbo Greg! Are you going for a stealth looking install when it's all done?
Boosted Miata I want the engine bay to have the same feel as the exterior of the car. Looks somewhat standard, maybe even a little boring, but as you investigate closer you see more and more of what makes it a monster. Nice and clean, not outlandish, but you can tell it means business.
please never stop doing what you do!!!! I'm thinking of doing build like this soon... maybe filming it also!
I have a 1.8L on 1997 model with stock engine and planning to keep as stock. I have just under 100,000 miles without any engine issue. I have heard about the cooling reroute and never really understood why until now. I bought Koyorad aluminum rad as an upgrade from stock rad but haven’t installed it yet. I will install it as stock replacement in a month or so when the weather is a bit warmer. Maybe cooling reroute down the road as extra insurance.
FYI ARP lube on the block side is totally not needed, only on the fastener end. If you're worried about them rusting (if any are sealed from oil) you can use anti-seize or just a light grease
This makes me want another miata so bad! Epic build dude!
I'm building 1.8 99, thanks for mentioned fab9. I toke all main parts from them (love forget candy stuff). Can't wait for next videos. Great work. Greetings from Prague
The ARP head studs really made the build.
A excellent upgrade for your hubs as well!
Hi Greg! I'm really happy to see that your engine build documentation. It gives people a lot of info about their builts. But i wonder smthg about your turbos location. Its too close to your block, so isnt it gives extra heat of your engine and intake section of your turbo? Is it possible to prevent extra heat from there? Thanks from now! Waiting for more... 😎👏
This is exactly what I want to do to my 1.8 VVT! Maybe a 2.0L stroker crank too though. I'm eager to see how this will turn out!
I cant wait to see this up and running!
A little assy lube on the arp stud washers helps keep them in place while you move the head around.
good attention to detail, which usually means a successful engine build. I'm excited bro. also that turbo sure is a bit bigger than the t25s from the previous. Hope it spools well. thanks for the great content.
If you are going for High HP you should change the ARP washers to one that match the size of the head bosses as the ones shipped with headstuds press in to the head bosses and can increase the chance of headlifting then blowing a head gasket
You can actually put the washers on after putting the head on. You can get the wash JUST on the stud and then use a socket and hammer the washer down. It just slips through.
TheCarPassionChannel Hay what's up with the head gasket spray? Iv heard so many people useing it ? It's like a copper glue? Any thoughts 💭 ?
Btw building looks awesome so far!
Greg you are seriously amazing!! Thank you for all your hard work!! You've helped me out with my miata build so much!! Keep it up!
@04:12 another great trick is to use small dab of arp assembly grease to bottom edge of each washer before you use your screwdriver trick. the assembly grease will act as a glue of sorts and prevent your washers from just flopping all over the place while moving and installing your head over the arp head studs ;]
3 weeks until i get my vvt block+head back from the machine shop. I am following your steps, so keep it up ;-)
And thanks for your work!
Awesome videos. I've rebuilt V8's, but this is my first foray into the 1.6. I'm very curious why you torque down then loosen then torque again?
I've heard you should always lube both sides of the washer to get a consistent torque regardless of the mating surfaces. I think the ARP assembly instructions suggest this.
I've also heard you should be very careful when dropping an aluminum head over studs since you can get small filings in the stud threads and potentially change the resistance of the nut when torqueing.
Thank you all I gotta say your channel is awesome
I would be lost without your videos man thank you
can't wait to horde parts and start my miata build.
Loving your videos while I get ready to do my first miata rebuild. Do you have a video on the assembly of your head or is there one you suggest? The one in this video is already assembled.
Nice job man! that motor looks hella dope!
very cool to see the progress. The turbo mount looks mean. Will you need to reorganize anything else in the engine bay to have it fit?
nicolas garces Yes there's one major change that needs to be made with a setup like this - I will cover it in detail.
just wanted to say you are doing a great Job with your videos! plus you seem like a good guy. if i wouldnt live in germany i would come over for a visit.
Keep it up!
No need to use arp's assembly line on the block side, and you don't need nearly this much. A little bit of engine oil is fine for this. The assembly lube is only for achieving proper torque on the nuts. also, before you put the studs in the block, those threads need to be chased, every time. That's just my 2 ¢, though.
Awesome video!
Any specific reason for going so near to your block with the turbo?
So did the machine shop that did the head work install the cam, lifters and springs or did you do that off camera? Thanks! Sweet channel. #subbed
siiiiick cant wait to see the final product!
YOOO! SOUTHERN HOONING! YAS!
I love that channel. Way to wear a good shirt. :D
Always learn so much from your videos. By the time I buy a Miata, I'll know everything there is to know! ;) Great work Greg.
Nice work Greg! keep em coming.
Are you gonna put on an engine torque damper? I'm planning on doing one so I can get some of the benefits without solid motor mounts... I'd love to see your review on it ;p
It´s getting late… but I can´t stop watching. ^^ That Turbo looks MEAN!!
Awesome videos Greg!! Keep it up!!
Getting more impatient each video! COMEON!!!!
cant wait
can't wait to see more videos
Awesome video Greg!
as always top notch ! keep it up fella
yes one step closer man.
smog? take everything off and back to stock? or are u smog urself?
You do not have to put ARP lube on the thread in the block. It must be put on the upper thread where the nut is going and on the washer. Did you do that?
Damn Greg that is one sexy manifold and turbo setup you got there! I finally got around to make a quick little walk around video of my Miata. You should check it out if you get a chance! Take care brotha! Looking forward to the next vid!
nice info about the head gasket difference , thank's a lot :)
Hello Greg i am kinda new to your channel just wanted to say your videos are really cool and informative. I though i gonna find some infos about your head somewhere but till now i did not. Which head are you using?
This is a 2001 VVT head 🙂
Hopefully that six speed holds up!!!
After the first torque sequence you broke them lose. As in undo the nuts completely or just back them out a little. And why?
You should never "run in" a new set of fasteners on a sealed joint with the metal seal you are going to finish assembly with. Metal seals are one time use and removing the load once they are compressed is a common cause to premature failure. It is best to run them in with an old head gasket then put your new head gasket in only for the final assembly.
don't drill and smooth the intake channels to the engine, I was reading Mazda designed it like that to help with fuel evaporation due to a larger surface area.
The surface itself has not been smoothed/polished. The actual radius that the air travels through has been "smoothed out" so it doesn't have quite as sharp of a "turn" to go through getting into the cylinders.
can't wait to buy and build my miata
How much have you spent so far on the VVT engine, and how much more do you have to spend? Thinking of 1.8 swapping my '93 myself.
Hi Greg, what's your opinion on using the dip stick for the oil drain like ricer miatas latest turbo build? Seems so much easier?
haven't even watched it yet, but I liked it...
damnnnnnn ittttt, youre running my turbo!!!! except in need two of them =/ z32 issues hahaha. love the channel!
+preprodigy Are you going to run twin 6258's on a VG? I am super interested to see how they dyno compared to twin 2554's (JWT530). If you end up doing it you gotta hit me up and tell me how you like it!
TheCarPassionChannel thats been the plan! just been counting my pennys getting all the parts lined up. def cant waitnmyself either, your builds def got me stoked to see what one will do on the miata.
with the power charts ive seen for these turbos i cant even begin to fathum how nasty there gonna be on the vg. def stoked! great video series brotha and dont worry, i def wil!!!
Hey Pre, what kind of power do you think you will make?
Hey Greg, where can I find info regarding turboing a Miata in cali? I know you have NA's so I'm guessing over 25 years old but I'm not sure. Can you link me or mind explaining? Thanks Greg
Today, Greg Peters test fits a turbo in the same amount of time that it takes me to poop casually. Science.
hey greg I have a question what is reasoning to loosening the the and torquing it down again is it to make sure it's properly seated, also what break in procedure are you going with, I was planning on following flyin miatas break in procedure
This made me tingle
lookin good Sir
That turbo looks like it wont clear the steering shaft, maybe cant really tell from video?
Luís Batalha The manifold was built in a Miata shell to insure proper fitment, should be all good.
awesome as always.
Do you have to lossen and re torque or do you just do that ??
The washers fit on mine maybe machine work was a bit different
Woooooh bring back the cherry roadster
Big fan love your stuff
I've heard that torque specs can be different when lubing a set of threads vs. non-lubed threads. I've always thought using lube or anti-seize on any critical bolt was the way to go, but I read on a forum that torque-ing should be higher (~+10 #/ft.) when lubing threads. Also, do not allow the bottom of the hole to be full of lube (hydraulic resistance) when bottoming out a stud. Anyone's thoughts here???
do you have a suggestion on a catalytic converters I have a p0421 code
Last week I change the head gasket and installed ARP studs on my Miata I did the torque sequence but I did not loose the nuts and re-torque them, should I do that even though I already have driven the car?
Hayden Jacob I would as a safety precaution.
It's really not necessary to loosen and re-torque the head when you use a mls headgasket.
Hi , I need your help
I'm building an engine similar to yours with similar parts, the cylinder head bolts and the crankshaft bolts, pistons, rods... I tried to access the torque specs on your web site but it is not working.
Could you send them to me? Or tell me where I can access them?
thanks
After torqing the head down why do you undo in and then retorque it down a second final time?
I took a brief look through your website and didn't see anything about this. However, did you have the machine shop assemble your head?
Jacob Wyrick yes
TheCarPassionChannel Awesome I appreciate it
I thought no one would ever build an engine like this on a TH-cam video and was saving the idea until I can afford it. Damn it! XD Oh well at least I get to see from you before I inevitably miss a step and screw it up. By the way, have you considered Glyptal Coating the inside of your engine? Doesn't seem like there's much benefit into it but it'll make it look like you put a lot of effort into the engine. XD
Mr. Petkov If you want to talk engine coatings, WPC is the way to go.
Sweet, will look it up :)
hi did you do a video installing the valve stems and seats ?
machine shop probably did them.
Hi Greg 😊
nice
What's the blue stuff around the valves?
It's a dye that they use to measure how much valve surface meets flush with the seat when fully closed.
"prussian blue", a dye used in metalworking/machining for marking out stuff.
Really cool videos I'm building my engine also .
DynoLess same here building a 1.6
4.6 over here!
DynoLess mustang v8?
SlayerVideos15 that's right ! 03
@DynoLess love to hear enthusiasts of other cars joining the channel. Good luck on your build!