My best friend and I have agreed to both buy miatas and rebuild them 100% until our kids get their liscence then gift it to them. We will 100% be using your video. Thank you for your hard work
Just found your channel. Damn. You are legit. Good music, good camerawork and editing, you speak clearly, and you encourage caution in your audience. Super kudos to you, sir.
It's extremely important not to remove the 10mm bolts on the VVT actuator. There's black magic inside and it's very difficult to rebuild. Not that you did, but others will be tempted to.
LOL - I did it a twice NP, but the last time, my VVT took a crap. I think the problem is that the apex seals wear in a certain way and when you take it apart and then put them back in another way, they don't seal right and the VVT loses oil pressure.
Pro tip. if you have a tough torx or even Philips screw/bolt, put a little valve grinding paste on the end of your screw driver. it will help it grip and not strip. it even helps when you have a worn Philips screw that is half stripped.
You did a fine job of this! Best part for me is seeing how you figured out a simple way of removing the stubborn bolt, well done that is what more people should do before they throw their hands up and call the manufacture to chastise them because they can't figure out how to solve the problem. I think you are very unique in the way you handle situations like this for a Millennial most would just try to piss and moan and as I said call us or the other manufacture to complain about how they can't figure out a solution to the problem. Back when I was your age, we didn't have the internet to look at to solve our problems so we had to do it this way. Much respect to you! As always an excellent video as well. Keep up the good work.
Hey there, I little trick in the pro race shops is to take a die grinder and a carbide burr or grinding stone and remove all of the trapped core sand on the inside of the crank case. Usually that just means grinding out all of the crusty areas, blending the seam lines and lightly surfacing the entire inside. During the casting process core sand gets trapped in the surface of the block and as the engine ages this sand will slowly release itself back into the oil. By lightly grinding the surface you can release a majority of this sand and if you do it before the block is hot tanked you can be sure that anything that is still loose on the surface is cleaned out. Some people get carried away with the grinding, it isn't necessary to get the surface smooth and leaving it somewhat rough should help heat transfer from the oil to the block. Love your vids, I just replaced my beat up 97 with an 02, looking forward to doing my own build in the future.
Yup yup... just bought a miata... I've wanted this car since I was a child... 5 yrs old and seeing it.... now I'm bringing one home at 31. Great vids and loving the information overload... time to modify the junk out of it to make a fun little autocross monster.... thanks again!
I found your channel a couple of weeks ago, and I've watched dozens of videos and Rebirth repeats; fantastic details and rec's for my 2003 Miata project. I started yesterday evening with a pulled motor on my lift, watched this video full and in parts countlessly while working, and got down to the pistons and crank mains at 2:30am this morning. Thank you! You rock!
I watch this video every time I take any miata apart! It hypes me up and Greg makes sure you stay organized and do everything perfectly! This channel is so damn underrated. He does all these videos in his garage by himself and outperforms TH-cam channels with full production crews and writers.
Best motor breakdown video ever! Thanks for all the hard work on this! Just a note about the oil cooler. I wouldn't cap it off. Your oil is going to get hotter with out it. If you're much over 200 degrees on your coolant, you need to fix that first. Coolant pretty much dictates your engine heat. If you want, you can get the MSM oil cooler which is taller, you need the longer threaded pipe for the oil filter though. Another note, on the intake cam bolt plate torx screws, I use a T27 and drive in in with a hammer if the T25 is stripping, usually works.
^ Exactly why I'll be running the oil temp gauge. I can run the motor with and without the oil cooler (oil warmer?) to see if either works better. On my 275whp 1.6L I always had water temp issues, never oil, so we'll see what this motor likes!
The "oil cooler" on the engine is also used as an oil warmer on start up. It probably helps the longevity more than anything by getting the oil up to temp faster. I've noticed German cars have been doing some more advanced ones for quite a while now.
Although I finished my Miata Turbo build. I still follow your channel as it's the only tech based Miata content and one of the few tech filled engine build channels. Nice work, keep it up.
this is really interesting. I am in an automotive class in my freshman year of highschool and we are taking apart lawn mower engines and putting them back together. I've learned so much from that class.
protips: -you can also use the rubber oil filter wrenches to hold pulleys, both for loosening or tightening. -labelling oily parts with sharpie can make you sad, since oil wipes it away. for 16 valve engines consider buying ice cube trays for holding 16 parts at a time -
hey Greg, addressing the t25 bolts that held your cover on the intake cam: when I was apprenticing at a machine shop in high school, we had a hand held impact driver that worked great for those kind of bolts. they accept 3/8" drive sockets, you hold the body of the impact driver very firmly, and give the end a good smack with a heavy hammer. another trick was to use a long 3/8" extension with the appropriate socket on the end, insert the bit into your bolt and *carefully* give it a few good smacks with a hammer. it really helps to break the the tension on the threads and usually gets the bolt out pretty easily. also worked great for the allen style oil passage plugs on the heads that had them.
Nice tutorial. I bought my 99 with a seized engine and also ended up going with a lower mileage 01+ engine. My 99 head was fine, so I just used the Z3 block. Lots of benefits to that Z3 block, higher compression(For NA applications), better windage tray, stronger mains etc. I did a bunch of preventative maintenance before putting it all back in. It was such a nice feeling having a tight Miata engine in my NB after coming from a 180k NA6 that leaked and burned oil.
FYI, minor thing - the head bolts (and anything else important with a tightening pattern) should be loosened in the REVERSE order. Inside out to tighten, outside in to loosen. Otherwise awesome video man!
Fantastic video, very helpful for me since I have to replace my head gasket, most detailed one I've seen yet. And you present very well, not annoying at all.
Hey Greg, the way you lock your cams work but a quick tip that might be easier for people that don't have those tools (not sure why they would be taking the engine apart without them) or people disassembling different engines without anywhere to put those wrenches is to pull one cap from each cam and place a piece of paper on the cam. I normally just tear a piece maybe 2x5 inches and lay it along the cam then snug the cap back down. Works every time and is the easiest way I've found to lock cams on engines with no where to put the wrenches.
I've had great luck with all sorts of internal-drive fasteners, including T-25's on the Miata and on a ton of non-Miata internal drives that were rusty and fragile. Dip the end of the bit in valve grinding paste (I also use it to help drill bits dig in on slick or hard materials ) and slide a 1/4" wrench on the shank of the bit to buffer the hard hits to the ragged edge of the walls inside the screw. If the grinding compound doesn't work, J-B weld mixed with a tiny bit of grit from my blasting cabinet then left to cure in place in the fastener has done the trick every time. I also slide a 1/4 wrench onto the shank of the bit to keep it centered and to buffer the impact against the walls of the fastener. Don't use the quick weld because it shrinks during cure.
10:42 when loosening the camshaft caps you have to go from OUTSIDE TO INSIDE in like a circle (cil 1, cil 4, cil 2, cil 3 for example, aka same type of order for the cylinderhead bolts) if you don't do this you may still bend or break the camshafts. same for installing them, only then go in reverse, from inside to outside. if you do the middle first, it wants to go up in the middle but stays in place on the outsides, which may break them.
I've been working on my cylinder head recently and discovered that the cam caps do not always come off evenly as the bolts are removed. That is, they fit in place with a light press fit, so they may need a little persuasion to move. So it is possible to loosen the bolt, but the cap does not move on one, but the others move and you damage your cam. A solution I found it to loosen each bolt a half turn (in a spiral pattern), then rotate the cam 1/4 turn. When it pops to the next low energy point, it knocks all the caps free. Note that you have to keep doing this, because it may not fully free the cap, just allow it to move that little bit that it can.
You know there’s no need to ‘lock the timing Greg.’ The miata has pins on the cam shafts and a line up mark on the crank buddy. Live your vids and your work 👍👍👍👍👍
Hey Greg quick note the "oil cooler" sandwich plate is a bit of a misnomer. It's purpose is to warm oil faster as coolant warms up faster than the oil; this way it can help bring oil up to temp better. Why..... because water/gas naturally get's in your oil and you need to hit a certain temp to get it out. When you finally do make it up to temp remember max temp on coolant is somewhere around 200-220F; and your oil (syn) can get upwards of 260-280F before breakdown occurs. So in those scenarios this will act as a "oil cooler" but just barely so.
your videos are honestly so helpful! I can't count how many useful tricks and tips I learned since I started watching your channel. I'm doing my first miata rebuild now, actually have 3 engines hogging up my garage 😂
This was amazing. I love how clearly you show everything, music was also on point. Super keen to see you put it back together. The internet needs more people like you.
Greg, on the Power steering bracket, Drive that spacer to the rear to remove and install that hidden bolt. If your going to reinstall for the A/C once it is in and tightened down tap the spacer forward again. Makes getting that bolt in and out a lot easier.
That's cool, just thought I would let you know just in case. I have the 96 1.8 with that same bracket. I am the fourth owner and one of them before me put a manual rack on and left the pump in....hahaha, I got the pleasure of removing it.
7 ปีที่แล้ว +5
for future reference referring to the removal of the T25s; if you don't have an impact driver set (generally 10usd or so at HFT), you can firmly place your screwdriver and apply mild torque with one hand (not enough to twist out! risking a strip!) then tap or wack the butt of the handle with a 10lb hammer. You'll have effectively made yourself into a human impact gun. while not as efficient as the real thing, it will be a good measure to not strip screws, nuts, and bolt-heads :)
you mean to say, that if i hammer on to a screw driver, as in pushing the T25 inwards, white applying a torque to the driver, i would help break it lose. im a little lost. not being mean here, im genuinely curios, i would love to know the trick, since ive been stuck myself quiet a few times.
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Ali Masood In most cases of stuck/seized hardware, it merely needs a swift shock (aka sharp blunt force) while torque is applied to break it loose. So you're not so much trying to 'hammer it in' but instead just giving it a shock. tl;dr All Impact drivers work with this principal mind. However, the hand drivers work the same as the improvised method I mentioned prior, minus the recoil/spring effect of a proper unit. The improvised way takes some finesse to get right and be effective but it'll still get the job done if you're without the proper tool.
Porsche Duésnburg fair. in the end I ended up getting my self a 15 pounds manual impact screw driver. did the job but broke the screw haha. I'll try it out next time. cheers
Ali Masood oi! If ya have the proper tool already then it's a matter of patience lol sometimes you have to introduce heat if possible. Or cold... Though I don't recommend the freezing method... I've shattered a few things before... Don't ask LOL Not every thing likes it rough :p especially proprietary hardware (which, good luck finding outside of dealership and their costs)
Your videos are awesome! You've gotta be excited to get it done but the extra hours you put in toward video/editing are a very generous gift to the world my friend, Keep it up!
I did what you're doing to a 1.6 '93 engine. Now I'm having to pull it out again due to an oil pump leak. I replaced it's gasket but not the oil pump. I wish I'd replaced both when it was easy to do. Mine is leaking where the pump mounts against the face of the block. With an oil pump leak it can't be fixed in the car unless the sub frame is dropped. The oil pan has to come off. I didn't do anything fancy, just new bearings, rings, some valve springs and lifters. A machine shop did my head and decked the block face where it mates with the head. I honed the cylinders with a flex hone. The machine shop should check your springs for the force they need to meet spec. I had to replace a few, and had a few dead lifters, so I just bought a whole new set of those. When you put it back together use grease to hold the bearings in place so they don't fall out.
This was very well done! I have an 01 that will probably need a new engine in the next few years, so this gave me the confidence that I could do it myself!
Super high quality. I'm sure editing this took longer than disassembly! Nice work. For all the people that switch to the 1.8, the 1.6 is such a strong little motor. Too bad no replacement for displacement.
Awesome video Greg! I can see your dog is still worried about you. Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos. If it wasn't for you inspiration I wouldn't have attempted the turbo build on my Miata. What a worthwhile and fun project!
I love your Chopped shirt! I thought they should have done a vid with you instead of Roadkill. One thing you can do with bolts is to draw the part on cardboard, then poke them through "bolt holes" of the drawing. You said "remove bolts in some kind of cross pattern." Best practice is to use the reverse of the torque pattern. Impact Screw Drivers are perfect for pesky T25 screws. Another great vid. Keep up the great work.
if you use a oil filter spacer to mount your oil temp sensor, you may see high Temps on the gauge (250+) . it is normal (at least one mine) but something to keep in mind when buying a gauge.
Please remember that the VVT blocks are NOT compatible with coolant re-routes unless you use a BP4W headgasket. On the VVT engines mazda did some port blocking on the headgasket to change the coolant flow path and a reroute will cause it to overheat. Love the vid, I was planning turbo as we had talked about cam indexing before. Ended up going ecotec. LOL!
Awesome, sounds like you've got the bases covered then. The 4w HGSKT and reroute works far better then the Mazda band-aid on the VVT head gasket. I look forward to seeing you shred transmissions with this beast. Hopefully my ecotec swap will be done at the end of January and I'll finally be joining the fast miata club.
Hey Greg! Could you add some tips to the re-assembly or make a short vid on things to look for/general things on finding a machine shop to do work like what you're having done? Also what things you're having them do like cleaning or decking etc. Thanks and keep it up!!
when putting the head back on buy permatex cooper head gasket spray and coat the cometic. let it sit for about 10 mins before putting the gasket on. its like having two gaskets an makes sure the stubborn cometic will seal the first time around.
+TheCarPassionChannel, use a T25 bit and hit each of the the three screws on the camshaft cover with this and a hammer. It will loosen them somewhat and will make removing them most of the time much easier.
I've been watching your videos over a year now and I've notice that your editing has become a lot better, videos have become a lot more clear and you JUST GET ME SO FUCKING PUMPED MAN!! Haha can't wait for your next vid!
hey bro just going to say thank u for that video very detailed and it really put everything into perspective of what i need to buy and do to the engine to get it ready to bore out and resurface
@TheCarPassionChannel I cannot even imagine how much boost this engine will hold , but i am gessing around 1.8 bars will give it a 370-390 whp range which will be amazingly fast for a miata. I have a boosted NA myself with stock internals and it holds 13 pounds of boost like a pro and it is sometimes scares me at 220 whp. 400whp in a miata would be too much for me! Pretty dangerous for almost 1000 kgs. I wish you the best of luck Greg!!! Greetings from Greece
Bro, thank you so much for this video. I’m just getting into the Spec Miata racing Scene. A clean and concise break down is exactly what I needed. Now, I haven’t went to you channel yet to view other videos....but, you sir need a M18 or equivalent electric wrench. Makes things super quick. Edit: never mind...you have one. 😂 Just hadn’t seen it yet. Lol
First video and I just subscribed for three reasons: 1: Chopped shirt. 2: Great job tearing down the engine, I have a Mazda B8 that I'll be tearing down soon. 3: Those doggy eyes!
Greg, sad news. Drove 5 hours to San Diego to look at a 1.8 96 miata. Seller backed out after handshake. Driving to San Fran Monday to check out a 94, I need the boost fix
Hey Greg, another great video! Perhaps indicate / show the thrust bearing locations and discuss the importance in checking end play. It is possible for the crank and connecting rod journals to be within spec, but the thrust bearing area on the crank worn outside the limits of new thrust bearings sizes.
Here's a tip.....when you write on baggies with permanent marker if you store the baggies together later and allow oil or solvents to contaminate the bags the marker can be defaced and you will lode the information on them......mark the bags in there own cardboard boxes or use envelopes for each bag to save the precious info otherwise you just end up with a big mess
great job man but after years of using your hand as a hammer to hit your ratchet to break loose bolts it will take a toll on your hands with a little arthritis at an early age. just a tip from another auto enthusiast. Thanks for the videos man
Sorry if repeated. The PAS bracket tube that covers the bottom bolt can be tapped outwards and it will slide out of the way. Will make your life a bit easier and when you tighten it upon assembly it will go back into place :) Cheers
So excited for this build man! having the same goals with my 95 turbo it will be awesome to see how this turns out. thanks for explaining in such detail 👌
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I'm really glad he stuck with a Miata motor. Things like this help out the community so much.
xampx2k7 absolutely agreed
My best friend and I have agreed to both buy miatas and rebuild them 100% until our kids get their liscence then gift it to them. We will 100% be using your video. Thank you for your hard work
Just found your channel. Damn. You are legit. Good music, good camerawork and editing, you speak clearly, and you encourage caution in your audience. Super kudos to you, sir.
Welcome! You pretty much described the goal of all my videos haha.
TheCarPassionChannel you are the man 👌
TheCarPassionChannel awesome job thanks ! What camera did you use to record with ? Great quality !
It's extremely important not to remove the 10mm bolts on the VVT actuator. There's black magic inside and it's very difficult to rebuild.
Not that you did, but others will be tempted to.
how come?
Ali Masood www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/rebuilding-vvt-actuator-pics-80407/
Learned the hard way, had to replace my intake cam :(
LOL - I did it a twice NP, but the last time, my VVT took a crap. I think the problem is that the apex seals wear in a certain way and when you take it apart and then put them back in another way, they don't seal right and the VVT loses oil pressure.
James Ellis don't release the magic blue smoke
Got it!
Very well done! Incredible detail and quality!
Tom's Turbo Garage when will you do another turbo Miata tom?!
Tom's Turbo Garage I want to see u build a AE100 Toyota Corolla for ur next build
Tom's Turbo Garage you know you're doing something right when Toms garage comments on ur video
Tom's Turbo Garage when is the next video lol
This could only be made better if Jafro commented on this video as well.
Pro tip. if you have a tough torx or even Philips screw/bolt, put a little valve grinding paste on the end of your screw driver. it will help it grip and not strip. it even helps when you have a worn Philips screw that is half stripped.
You did a fine job of this! Best part for me is seeing how you figured out a simple way of removing the stubborn bolt, well done that is what more people should do before they throw their hands up and call the manufacture to chastise them because they can't figure out how to solve the problem. I think you are very unique in the way you handle situations like this for a Millennial most would just try to piss and moan and as I said call us or the other manufacture to complain about how they can't figure out a solution to the problem. Back when I was your age, we didn't have the internet to look at to solve our problems so we had to do it this way. Much respect to you! As always an excellent video as well. Keep up the good work.
Hey there, I little trick in the pro race shops is to take a die grinder and a carbide burr or grinding stone and remove all of the trapped core sand on the inside of the crank case. Usually that just means grinding out all of the crusty areas, blending the seam lines and lightly surfacing the entire inside. During the casting process core sand gets trapped in the surface of the block and as the engine ages this sand will slowly release itself back into the oil. By lightly grinding the surface you can release a majority of this sand and if you do it before the block is hot tanked you can be sure that anything that is still loose on the surface is cleaned out.
Some people get carried away with the grinding, it isn't necessary to get the surface smooth and leaving it somewhat rough should help heat transfer from the oil to the block.
Love your vids, I just replaced my beat up 97 with an 02, looking forward to doing my own build in the future.
Yup yup... just bought a miata... I've wanted this car since I was a child... 5 yrs old and seeing it.... now I'm bringing one home at 31. Great vids and loving the information overload... time to modify the junk out of it to make a fun little autocross monster.... thanks again!
Thanks greg. Im disassembling my engine tomorrow and I'm watching this now (again) to help me do it. 1.6 NA btw.
I found your channel a couple of weeks ago, and I've watched dozens of videos and Rebirth repeats; fantastic details and rec's for my 2003 Miata project. I started yesterday evening with a pulled motor on my lift, watched this video full and in parts countlessly while working, and got down to the pistons and crank mains at 2:30am this morning. Thank you! You rock!
I watch this video every time I take any miata apart! It hypes me up and Greg makes sure you stay organized and do everything perfectly!
This channel is so damn underrated. He does all these videos in his garage by himself and outperforms TH-cam channels with full production crews and writers.
Best motor breakdown video ever! Thanks for all the hard work on this! Just a note about the oil cooler. I wouldn't cap it off. Your oil is going to get hotter with out it. If you're much over 200 degrees on your coolant, you need to fix that first. Coolant pretty much dictates your engine heat. If you want, you can get the MSM oil cooler which is taller, you need the longer threaded pipe for the oil filter though. Another note, on the intake cam bolt plate torx screws, I use a T27 and drive in in with a hammer if the T25 is stripping, usually works.
^ Exactly why I'll be running the oil temp gauge. I can run the motor with and without the oil cooler (oil warmer?) to see if either works better. On my 275whp 1.6L I always had water temp issues, never oil, so we'll see what this motor likes!
The "oil cooler" on the engine is also used as an oil warmer on start up. It probably helps the longevity more than anything by getting the oil up to temp faster. I've noticed German cars have been doing some more advanced ones for quite a while now.
Although I finished my Miata Turbo build. I still follow your channel as it's the only tech based Miata content and one of the few tech filled engine build channels. Nice work, keep it up.
Great ingenuity pulling that cam gear off Greg that was a good idea!
this is really interesting. I am in an automotive class in my freshman year of highschool and we are taking apart lawn mower engines and putting them back together. I've learned so much from that class.
protips:
-you can also use the rubber oil filter wrenches to hold pulleys, both for loosening or tightening.
-labelling oily parts with sharpie can make you sad, since oil wipes it away. for 16 valve engines consider buying ice cube trays for holding 16 parts at a time
-
"Shout-out to my girlfriend for using her strap-on"
Your humble attitude keeps me watching your videos...and I don't even own a Miata!
hey Greg, addressing the t25 bolts that held your cover on the intake cam: when I was apprenticing at a machine shop in high school, we had a hand held impact driver that worked great for those kind of bolts. they accept 3/8" drive sockets, you hold the body of the impact driver very firmly, and give the end a good smack with a heavy hammer. another trick was to use a long 3/8" extension with the appropriate socket on the end, insert the bit into your bolt and *carefully* give it a few good smacks with a hammer. it really helps to break the the tension on the threads and usually gets the bolt out pretty easily. also worked great for the allen style oil passage plugs on the heads that had them.
Nice tutorial. I bought my 99 with a seized engine and also ended up going with a lower mileage 01+ engine. My 99 head was fine, so I just used the Z3 block. Lots of benefits to that Z3 block, higher compression(For NA applications), better windage tray, stronger mains etc. I did a bunch of preventative maintenance before putting it all back in. It was such a nice feeling having a tight Miata engine in my NB after coming from a 180k NA6 that leaked and burned oil.
FYI, minor thing - the head bolts (and anything else important with a tightening pattern) should be loosened in the REVERSE order. Inside out to tighten, outside in to loosen. Otherwise awesome video man!
Fantastic video, very helpful for me since I have to replace my head gasket, most detailed one I've seen yet. And you present very well, not annoying at all.
Hey Greg, the way you lock your cams work but a quick tip that might be easier for people that don't have those tools (not sure why they would be taking the engine apart without them) or people disassembling different engines without anywhere to put those wrenches is to pull one cap from each cam and place a piece of paper on the cam. I normally just tear a piece maybe 2x5 inches and lay it along the cam then snug the cap back down. Works every time and is the easiest way I've found to lock cams on engines with no where to put the wrenches.
I've had great luck with all sorts of internal-drive fasteners, including T-25's on the Miata and on a ton of non-Miata internal drives that were rusty and fragile. Dip the end of the bit in valve grinding paste (I also use it to help drill bits dig in on slick or hard materials ) and slide a 1/4" wrench on the shank of the bit to buffer the hard hits to the ragged edge of the walls inside the screw. If the grinding compound doesn't work, J-B weld mixed with a tiny bit of grit from my blasting cabinet then left to cure in place in the fastener has done the trick every time. I also slide a 1/4 wrench onto the shank of the bit to keep it centered and to buffer the impact against the walls of the fastener. Don't use the quick weld because it shrinks during cure.
Don't even own a miata but always look forward to your videos
Greg, you're honestly the best. Your videos always teach me something and you add just the right amount of goofy. Thank you.
This was the most peaceful, stress relieving thing I've seen in a while. Good job!
10:42 when loosening the camshaft caps you have to go from OUTSIDE TO INSIDE in like a circle (cil 1, cil 4, cil 2, cil 3 for example, aka same type of order for the cylinderhead bolts) if you don't do this you may still bend or break the camshafts. same for installing them, only then go in reverse, from inside to outside. if you do the middle first, it wants to go up in the middle but stays in place on the outsides, which may break them.
I've been working on my cylinder head recently and discovered that the cam caps do not always come off evenly as the bolts are removed. That is, they fit in place with a light press fit, so they may need a little persuasion to move. So it is possible to loosen the bolt, but the cap does not move on one, but the others move and you damage your cam. A solution I found it to loosen each bolt a half turn (in a spiral pattern), then rotate the cam 1/4 turn. When it pops to the next low energy point, it knocks all the caps free. Note that you have to keep doing this, because it may not fully free the cap, just allow it to move that little bit that it can.
Such a detailed video and the footage looks so professional! Keep it up Greg and good luck with the build!
Awesome video! The editing and explanations were on point, I was shocked when I realized twenty minutes had gone by.
You know there’s no need to ‘lock the timing Greg.’ The miata has pins on the cam shafts and a line up mark on the crank buddy. Live your vids and your work 👍👍👍👍👍
Awesome!!!! Going to use your videos to teach my two high school sons to work on cars and rebuild our 120K Miatta - You are the man - Thanks!
They'll take that experience with them through their whole life, I wish more middle/high school kids were interested in working on cars.
Awesome build to follow. Way more detailed knowledge than a lot of other channels ever offer.
I found this channel last night and been bingewatching it ever since. Great stuff!
Hey Greg quick note the "oil cooler" sandwich plate is a bit of a misnomer. It's purpose is to warm oil faster as coolant warms up faster than the oil; this way it can help bring oil up to temp better. Why..... because water/gas naturally get's in your oil and you need to hit a certain temp to get it out. When you finally do make it up to temp remember max temp on coolant is somewhere around 200-220F; and your oil (syn) can get upwards of 260-280F before breakdown occurs. So in those scenarios this will act as a "oil cooler" but just barely so.
THE best on line schooling for proper and efficient Miata engine work. I dare a contradiction.
your videos are honestly so helpful! I can't count how many useful tricks and tips I learned since I started watching your channel. I'm doing my first miata rebuild now, actually have 3 engines hogging up my garage 😂
This was amazing. I love how clearly you show everything, music was also on point. Super keen to see you put it back together. The internet needs more people like you.
Greg, on the Power steering bracket, Drive that spacer to the rear to remove and install that hidden bolt. If your going to reinstall for the A/C once it is in and tightened down tap the spacer forward again. Makes getting that bolt in and out a lot easier.
That bad boy is pretty stuck in there, plus I'm not running power steering or A/C so I don't have to be concerned with going back on.
That's cool, just thought I would let you know just in case. I have the 96 1.8 with that same bracket. I am the fourth owner and one of them before me put a manual rack on and left the pump in....hahaha, I got the pleasure of removing it.
for future reference referring to the removal of the T25s; if you don't have an impact driver set (generally 10usd or so at HFT), you can firmly place your screwdriver and apply mild torque with one hand (not enough to twist out! risking a strip!) then tap or wack the butt of the handle with a 10lb hammer.
You'll have effectively made yourself into a human impact gun. while not as efficient as the real thing, it will be a good measure to not strip screws, nuts, and bolt-heads :)
you mean to say, that if i hammer on to a screw driver, as in pushing the T25 inwards, white applying a torque to the driver, i would help break it lose. im a little lost.
not being mean here, im genuinely curios, i would love to know the trick, since ive been stuck myself quiet a few times.
Ali Masood In most cases of stuck/seized hardware, it merely needs a swift shock (aka sharp blunt force) while torque is applied to break it loose.
So you're not so much trying to 'hammer it in' but instead just giving it a shock.
tl;dr
All Impact drivers work with this principal mind. However, the hand drivers work the same as the improvised method I mentioned prior, minus the recoil/spring effect of a proper unit.
The improvised way takes some finesse to get right and be effective but it'll still get the job done if you're without the proper tool.
Porsche Duésnburg fair. in the end I ended up getting my self a 15 pounds manual impact screw driver. did the job but broke the screw haha.
I'll try it out next time. cheers
pounds (currency) not torque
Ali Masood oi! If ya have the proper tool already then it's a matter of patience lol sometimes you have to introduce heat if possible. Or cold... Though I don't recommend the freezing method... I've shattered a few things before... Don't ask LOL
Not every thing likes it rough :p especially proprietary hardware (which, good luck finding outside of dealership and their costs)
I'm buying a 2nd vehicle tomorrow (Miata 1.8l ) and all your videos are ganna help me greatly, so I subscribed.
Hey Greg thanks a lot buddy. Love the videos I just finished my own broke and boosted Miata from your videos and wow man it runs perfect!
This is, without a doubt, one of my very favorite TH-cam channels. Keep up the good work!
Can´t understand people watching television… this is so much MORE fun to watch :D
Your videos are awesome! You've gotta be excited to get it done but the extra hours you put in toward video/editing are a very generous gift to the world my friend, Keep it up!
Whoa that 19 minutes went by so fast! Great video and excellent info :)
I don't even have a Miata but I still enjoy your vids, awesome way to procrastinate 😂
Video was well worth the effort! Looking forward to seeing this project build up. Thanks for taking the time to share the process with all of us!
I did what you're doing to a 1.6 '93 engine. Now I'm having to pull it out again due to an oil pump leak. I replaced it's gasket but not the oil pump. I wish I'd replaced both when it was easy to do. Mine is leaking where the pump mounts against the face of the block. With an oil pump leak it can't be fixed in the car unless the sub frame is dropped. The oil pan has to come off. I didn't do anything fancy, just new bearings, rings, some valve springs and lifters. A machine shop did my head and decked the block face where it mates with the head. I honed the cylinders with a flex hone. The machine shop should check your springs for the force they need to meet spec. I had to replace a few, and had a few dead lifters, so I just bought a whole new set of those. When you put it back together use grease to hold the bearings in place so they don't fall out.
This was very well done! I have an 01 that will probably need a new engine in the next few years, so this gave me the confidence that I could do it myself!
man.... Cant wait! My Miata should be pushing 350-400hp by next winter. Just runnin stock 1.6 at 15psi
Jonathon Smith 400hp on stock 1.6???
this music is very mightys car modyyyy
mody good, I say
psychotogen1 haha I get it😂 nice one.
He is wearing an MCM Chopped Tee... Inspiration comes from many corners of the inter webz...
Super high quality. I'm sure editing this took longer than disassembly! Nice work. For all the people that switch to the 1.8, the 1.6 is such a strong little motor. Too bad no replacement for displacement.
Awesome video Greg! I can see your dog is still worried about you. Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos. If it wasn't for you inspiration I wouldn't have attempted the turbo build on my Miata. What a worthwhile and fun project!
I love your Chopped shirt! I thought they should have done a vid with you instead of Roadkill.
One thing you can do with bolts is to draw the part on cardboard, then poke them through "bolt holes" of the drawing.
You said "remove bolts in some kind of cross pattern." Best practice is to use the reverse of the torque pattern.
Impact Screw Drivers are perfect for pesky T25 screws.
Another great vid. Keep up the great work.
if you use a oil filter spacer to mount your oil temp sensor, you may see high Temps on the gauge (250+) . it is normal (at least one mine) but something to keep in mind when buying a gauge.
Very informative and comprehensive video, I almost want to take my engine apart now haha
Great video! Felt like I was at the club. Your music choice made the teardown "lit af bruh".
Please remember that the VVT blocks are NOT compatible with coolant re-routes unless you use a BP4W headgasket. On the VVT engines mazda did some port blocking on the headgasket to change the coolant flow path and a reroute will cause it to overheat.
Love the vid, I was planning turbo as we had talked about cam indexing before. Ended up going ecotec. LOL!
I'll be running a 4W head gasket with a reroute. :) I'll be covering that topic when I put the motor back together.
Awesome, sounds like you've got the bases covered then. The 4w HGSKT and reroute works far better then the Mazda band-aid on the VVT head gasket. I look forward to seeing you shred transmissions with this beast. Hopefully my ecotec swap will be done at the end of January and I'll finally be joining the fast miata club.
I'm hoping the 6-speed is everything people crack it up to be, minus the crap gearing.
SWEET @TheCarPassionChannel hopefully there are no surprises at the machine shop i can not wait to see how hard this thing is going to run reliably!
Does not get any more professional!! awesome
Hey Greg! Could you add some tips to the re-assembly or make a short vid on things to look for/general things on finding a machine shop to do work like what you're having done? Also what things you're having them do like cleaning or decking etc. Thanks and keep it up!!
I plan on doing a full feature just like this own for the reassembly with all the forged parts. :)
when putting the head back on buy permatex cooper head gasket spray and coat the cometic. let it sit for about 10 mins before putting the gasket on. its like having two gaskets an makes sure the stubborn cometic will seal the first time around.
+TheCarPassionChannel, use a T25 bit and hit each of the the three screws on the camshaft cover with this and a hammer.
It will loosen them somewhat and will make removing them most of the time much easier.
im so glad you make videos like these there always super helpful
I've been watching your videos over a year now and I've notice that your editing has become a lot better, videos have become a lot more clear and you JUST GET ME SO FUCKING PUMPED MAN!! Haha can't wait for your next vid!
hey bro just going to say thank u for that video very detailed and it really put everything into perspective of what i need to buy and do to the engine to get it ready to bore out and resurface
Total legend, you have inspired me to rebuild my own engine.
Bro you're a great teacher for us garage mechanics 🖒🖒
This build started in 2016 when you blew the 1.6, today in 2019 the car still has teething issues 😬 Watching this back I love the NCS spec music haha.
@TheCarPassionChannel
I cannot even imagine how much boost this engine will hold , but i am gessing around 1.8 bars will give it a 370-390 whp range which will be amazingly fast for a miata. I have a boosted NA myself with stock internals and it holds 13 pounds of boost like a pro and it is sometimes scares me at 220 whp. 400whp in a miata would be too much for me! Pretty dangerous for almost 1000 kgs. I wish you the best of luck Greg!!! Greetings from Greece
I can't wait to see what kind of power this thing puts out!
Love this video Greg ❤ ..beautifully logical accompanied with clear & concise descriptions. Nice skills on the editing & music choice too man 👌🏼
best car/miata channel on TH-cam by far! amazing detail and great quality videos. keep it up dude!
You saved me on getting the VVT cam cover off. The previous owner stripped every single screw.
Thank you for this video. I actually learned a lot from this. Soon im planning on building my 1.6L motor for my 1991 NA Miata.
Bro, thank you so much for this video. I’m just getting into the Spec Miata racing Scene. A clean and concise break down is exactly what I needed. Now, I haven’t went to you channel yet to view other videos....but, you sir need a M18 or equivalent electric wrench. Makes things super quick.
Edit: never mind...you have one. 😂 Just hadn’t seen it yet. Lol
brilliantly detailed and incredibly informative step by step guide. By the end of this I may be confident enough to forge my turbo mx5 (not miata ;) )
One of the best how to videos ever!!
for stuck screws use a hammer to hit the screwdriver or use a punch and hit straight into it. the shock should loosen them up so you don't strip them
Thank you so much for making this. Your hard work making this video and explanations has helped me.
seriously, i love these kinds of vids.
great video, given me a lot of confidence with working on my car
First video and I just subscribed for three reasons:
1: Chopped shirt.
2: Great job tearing down the engine, I have a Mazda B8 that I'll be tearing down soon.
3: Those doggy eyes!
awesome video greg, cant wait to see you get this motor together and push the big whp numbers.
your music choice is on point as well
YES another TheCarPassionChannel video!! NEED MORE !!!!!!
Greg, sad news. Drove 5 hours to San Diego to look at a 1.8 96 miata. Seller backed out after handshake. Driving to San Fran Monday to check out a 94, I need the boost fix
Super useful overview of the process, big thanks!!!!
Hey Greg, another great video! Perhaps indicate / show the thrust bearing locations and discuss the importance in checking end play. It is possible for the crank and connecting rod journals to be within spec, but the thrust bearing area on the crank worn outside the limits of new thrust bearings sizes.
Here's a tip.....when you write on baggies with permanent marker if you store the baggies together later and allow oil or solvents to contaminate the bags the marker can be defaced and you will lode the information on them......mark the bags in there own cardboard boxes or use envelopes for each bag to save the precious info otherwise you just end up with a big mess
There is it again: The Mercedes Wrench!😉
Good Video and good Work Greg!
Sie Arbeiten sehr ordentlich 👍
Epic! Epic! Epic! I'm super pumped for the final product...wanna see what those 1.8 VVT engines can do...
great job man but after years of using your hand as a hammer to hit your ratchet to break loose bolts it will take a toll on your hands with a little arthritis at an early age. just a tip from another auto enthusiast. Thanks for the videos man
Would also be a good idea to center punch the fronts of the cam caps so you dont get them backwards either. Same goes for the main caps.
Sorry if repeated.
The PAS bracket tube that covers the bottom bolt can be tapped outwards and it will slide out of the way. Will make your life a bit easier and when you tighten it upon assembly it will go back into place :)
Cheers
Hell yeah man. Can't wait to see the finished product
So excited for this build man! having the same goals with my 95 turbo it will be awesome to see how this turns out. thanks for explaining in such detail 👌