John Deere B oil change WITH A SURPRISE at the end
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- Today was oil change day for the ol' 1950 John Deere B. Rounded up a new filter (Napa 1242) and some Rotella Triple protection 15w-40 engine oil. Gave it a good try and even with a few problems I got it done.
The ending is a bit of a surprise, keep tuned for more information as to what is coming.
Check out my facebook page to keep up to date on things I don't upload or that are coming in the future.
/ billthetractorman
Good video to make. I'm new here so now I'll have to go and see what happens with the shop. Wish you the best.
Good luck Bill I hope everything goes your way
Your appreciated over here too Bill, best of luck to whatever is happening.....be waiting for ya👍
RG Lawnscapes hints and peaks will come as time goes. some good and a lot of bad lately. it will all work out.
love the jd vids, I hope stuff doesn't get too sideways on ya, keep both cylinders firing
65bug519 life goes on, things always work out. Check out my latest video of the B, I borrowed a plow for the plow day. Thanks for watching.
th-cam.com/video/1TJrceFMGrU/w-d-xo.html
We always ran the None Detergent Oil in our older John Deere's! That Oil doesnt rinse the Cylinder walls etc!
Detergent oils DO NOT rinse the cylinder walls or cause premature wear. Modern oils are much better than the oils of 70yrs ago and even the Non-Detergent oils that are still sold today. I specifically use Diesel rated oils in my antique engines because the additives reduce wear better than the Gasoline engine oils of today, which as I mentioned are much better than yesteryears oils which these engines were designed to be run with. cylinder rinsing was an issue when fuel leaked into the crankcase which was common back in the day on old engines. If you look back at the manuals for the old tractors they recommended once a year the tractor have straight kerosene or diesel run in the engine for a short period to clean the engine, because non-detergent oils left deposits that would damage the engine.
Good luck with all that is ahead Bill! I know my life been turned upside down last four months or so myself!
Eric's small tractor restoration hopefully this is leading in a good direction.
time will tell and I will bring everyone along with my videos. thanks for commenting.
For the oil gasket ring, put it in the groove of the engine body and NOT on the filter cap. The gasket should stay in that groove when you put in the filter and the cap.
My old neighbor has a bunch of old JD's only one still running is a 60 he uses and I'm sure none of them have had Maintenence in years. My fordson diesel tractor was run with no filters (fuel or oil) for who knows how long. it's amazing what the old machines can endure
+1944johndeerel it is definitely amazing what the old machines can take. The newer oils and filters of today are 100% better than back then too which helps a lot.
After you beat yourself in the face with them you need to throw those channel locks in the woods... along with any crescent wrenches or cotton picker spindles you are using for cold chisels. haha
Use the automotive pan under the filter. The filter will be easier to catch.
Good to use Nitrile gloves to protect hands.
You should put the filter gasket up in the groove not on the filter cap.
I usually did, and used grease to hold it in place.
well BTTM I hope whatever is facing you will shrink away, CAUSE I just subed you and hope to learn and see what you do. there is always a different way to do things will now try to catch up on past vids
bob b still struggling but things will be working out. I need to repair the starter and fix a few other things when I get my tractor back from storage.
Thanks for watching and subscribing.
How about draining the oil out of the reduction gear pipe plug on cover .and replacing it through the filler plug by the clutch lever...nobody knows about that
Always remember to remove the old gasket from the filter cap-ring depression! You won't have a leak then.
Absolutely, I usually use a screw driver or pick to pull the old one out. However this style filter on these tractors have a difficult housing, the rubber seals don't like to seat and will leak if a guy is not really careful as well.
@@BillTheTractorMan my '38 A keeps blowing the oil filter gasket is it not seating right? Or what's your input. It won't leak until I fire it up and then it blows out and shoots oil everywhere.
@@be5575 your gasket is not seating in the groove properly is my best guess. Make sure there are not any other gaskets stuck in there.
Love the intro lol
Thanks!
Good luck man
Joe Bob thanks!
you should try cenpeco in your old tractors and straight weight oil is best in these old machines. try straight 40 in one of your tractors and see how much better they run. its all i use in my toys.
I'm definitely not a fan of straight weight oils and would recommend against them. Here where we have harsh winters and hot summers those oils can actually damage engines by being too thin or too thick to adequately lube vital engines assembles. 15w-40 was a good combo for all year use. Was good for winter starting and think enough for summer heat use.
@@BillTheTractorMan did you ever read any of the operators manuals for the old tractors? they always say run straight weight oil because it starts as a 30 weight and stays 30 weight all the time. your 15w-40 is only 15 weight oil then they add plastic pellets to make it act like 40 weight when its hot.
if you dont believe me look it up for yourself. also see what they use in airplanes, older planes always get straight weight and its 70 weight for many of them.
if you are starting it in below zero weather every day then any thin oil is good.
Where do you get the cenpeco strait wait oil I new that these older gas tractors said they used straight wait in the service manual
Just for anyone curious, this is about the same procedure on a 50, 520, and 530. My 530 has a dipstick instead of the overflow tap (it has one of those too but not needed) and the oil cap is shaped different and easy to take off by hand. I use the JD 26350 filter and 1.75 gallons of Valvoline Maxlife 10w40.
Sweet, thanks for sharing!
Did you ever get the oil leak stoped?
I have a old b it was my great uncles he always said only to run non detergent oil was wondering your thoughts
Better to get them clean and keep them clean instead of having the risk sludge and other contaminants get loose. If those contaminants get loose they can cause serious problems like loss of oil pressure and engine damage. I would recommend using gas engine or automotive type oil and do more frequent oil changes for a year. Use the tractor getting it good and hot, plus frequent oil changes will help flush the engine. Be sure to change the oil filter with every oil change.
Non Detergent oils where used on older machines without Oil Filters built in. Also With a 70 year old John Deere or any kind of make or model Its a good thing if you do not know the history of the tractor to run Non Detergent in it utile the crankcase is completely clean after that a Good 15-40 Diesel Oil or Hood 10-30 oil will work fine. Non detergent oil is also Ok to use if that is what you prefer it’s just want filter and clean the oil like a Detergent oil would. I have two John Deere 44 B’s and have run Non detergents in them even after the crankcase had been cleaned for 10 years with no issues what so ever. 🤟🏻👍
I was told to always run non-detergent oil in the rear hydraulic reservoir (we use SAE 30). That makes sense as it does not have a filter in the hydraulic pump and operates a hydraulic cylinder.
What would be better 10w-30 or 15w-40 for Iowa weather in summer and a little bit in winter? Or would a straight grade engine oil be better? Most running conditions would be between 0 degrees to 100 degrees.
15w-40 was my preferred. Older worn parts can benefit from the thicker oil while up to operating temperature.
@@BillTheTractorMan thanks and what gear oil 80w-90 or 85w-140 would be better thanks.
@@keeganfarmer5178 I ran 80-90.
@@BillTheTractorMan ok thanks I have been trying to figure that out for a while.
@@keeganfarmer5178 for higher heat and high stress gear boxes the thicker oil is of benefit.
My current chore tractor runs straight 40 engine oil in the rear end. It shares that oil with the hydraulic system. The lower grade oil is an in between for more modern transmissions that use hy-Tran and these older units that use engine oil. Older yet would be like your tractor that had the hydraulics seperate.
how you doing , my boss have a model a john deere tractor and we find water, gas and oil mixed, when we want to change the oil. what do you thing is the problem?
antonio vega going to recommend shutting the fuel off when the tractor is not running, the floats do stick open occasionally or leak.
A lot of water could be a crack or bad headaches allowing coolant through. Just a small amount could be condensation if the tractor sits a lot and doesn't get up to operating temperature much.
thank you for the information.
antonio vega thanks for watching, glad I could help.
You're supposed to use straight 30 non detergent oil.
Definitely not, non-detergent oil increases sludge and contaminant build up which will increase engine wear and the likelyhood of failure
@@BillTheTractorMan I have and will always use straight weight in my 2 cylinder Deere's. They didn't have detergent 70 years ago. If you maintain your equipment regularly like you should you won't have to worry about sludge build up. Since you use yours frequently I'd change it more often than annually. I'm old school, put in what's meant to be there.
@@sethbrethauer9538 advancements in oil have done great things, I'm sure if Deere took the time to revise their recommendations straight weight oil and non-detergent would be gone from the books. Many benefits to multi-viscosity oil are proven to benefit these old engines, as well as the anti-wear additives.
@@BillTheTractorMan We will have to agree to disagree. I know many farming fellows who, like myself, will only use straight 30 for their maintenance. I personally would never recommend to anyone putting anything other than that in an engine of this era.
Now, I do agree with you in the aspect that oil quality has improved, but with that so has engine performance / tolerances of machining hence why you can run such a lightweight viscosity in modern engines. NOT in a 30's - 40's - 50's 2 cylinder farm engine.
To each their own.
What the part number for your filter
The part number is in the video description. I dont recall the number off hand. Thanks for waching.
@@BillTheTractorMan im in the process of restoring my great grandfathers 1946 john deere model A thanks for the informative video god bless
@@prestonclark1910 awesome! That's great to hear.
Where???
@@g.alistar7798 in the video description, just below the video player.
Just wear rubber mechanics gloves
1970 olds442 I have tried to find gloves large enough for my hands and cant. Due to a medical condition my hands are usually very swollen. I cant find winter gloves, work gloves, or rubber gloves that fit my hands.
Thanks for watching!