You should never push/pull a bearing in from the iner race because you will damage the inside of the outer and the outside of the iner race the ball bearings will flar the top of the iner race and the bottom of the outer race. If you watched this video please dont do this.
Hey how hard was doing this I think my crank is bad because my bike is locked up it’s a 2005 Kx250f and I took the top end off and the pistons not broken or anything so idk why it’s locked up
I've a 2013 KX250F and I've a collar and 2 o-rings behind the sprocket in the parts diagram. I didn't see you install these, did I miss it? The collar has a single groove inside and I'm wondering if the o-ring goes inside and one on the outside, etc...?
hey man i know this is an old video not sure if you even see this comment but it would really help if you did. did you leave shift drum have side to side play in it?
I accidently dropped the small head bolt by the timing chain down in the case. I could hear it bouncing off of a number of things before it stopped. I tried fishing it out with a magnet and then flipped the bike upside down and I wasn't able to get it out. Do you have any ideas on where it went and how to get it out. is there one side cover I could remove to find it. I really don't want to pull the engine out and rip it all apart. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Any tips on torquing some of these nuts without using my 3/4" Milwaukee Impact ... could very well strip things with that beast. I wedged a 12" 3/8 extension in between the flywheel tabs but couldn't hold it while somebody else was torquing the primary drive nut. Somebody recommended a penny wedged between the gears but I'm not sure this trick will work for the several different high torque nuts you just used your Ridgid on ...
bugsysiegals I have seen many people using a penny to torque the final drive nut, but you can do a couple things other then that. The best thing to do is buy a gear/clutch holder tool or put a long punch or metal rod through the opening on the crankshaft rod where the piston connects and put a towel against the case to make sure it doesn’t scratch the cases and then torque to spec.
@@stratigos11 I read about the penny last night and tried it this morning before seeing your comment. It made it to torque, 72 ft lbs, just before sucking the penny through!! I'm not sure if it was from the penny or something else but I found tiny aluminum shavings around the shaft for the clutch hub. I vacuumed and wiped up what I could. I like your method better assuming it wouldn't damage the crank bearing or bend the shaft?
bugsysiegals make sure none of your gears are chipped. Also using a punch or metal rod shouldn’t put any stress on the bearings but like I said the best thing to do is buy a gear holder tool. I think they are like $30. Tusk makes one that that can be a her holder and flywheel holder. Well worth the invest even if you do a few engines over the years.
how hard was doing this I think my crank is bad because my bike is locked up it’s a 2005 Kx250f and I took the top end off and the pistons not broken or anything so idk why it’s locked up
I have a kx250f that's getting water into the case. I've rebuilt the water pump, and planed the head, replaced head gasket. Still water in the oil. Could there be a crack in the case somewhere?
Idk if u have found out the problem or not but i had the same problem with my 07 rmz 250 and it turned out to be the freezeput plug loose, its right next to the spark plug hole in your head, if that doesnt fix it check your cases for cracks on the water channel
@@stratigos11 I put the clutch on and everything. But for some reason when I pull the clutch in. It rubs against the clutch cover. Did I do something wrong?
Crank was replaced, oil screens, new bearings, gaskets. You ensure a smoother running engine. You never know when you engine is going to blow up and hopefully it never does. There are recommendations on how long a crank or crank bearings will last. If you have a big race or you are going on a long riding trip, you wouldn't want to take a chance on blowing your motor because you didn't take the time to take it apart and inspect it. Especially if you do it yourself.
For future reference, this guy heats up an old socket, lets it sit in the center hub of the bearing for a minute or two, and is then able to easily slide the crank into the bearing. I suspect you could do this on both crank case halves and make this a whole lot easier ... I'm about to find out in the next week or two. th-cam.com/video/NVp3sd2OyLM/w-d-xo.html
I forgot to order a new clutch hub nut when I ordered all my parts!! SMH I'll likely need to order new bucket shims once I get the top end back together and hate to pay shipping for a nut alone. That said, can I complete the right side of the engine, install the engine, and then open the clutch cover and still be able to torque the clutch hub nut, install the plates, etc.? I've never replaced clutch plates but it seems all this was made accessible for this purpose ... if so, I could order the nut with the bucket shims and not feel so bad.
bugsysiegals I would tighten the nut and leave the clutch apart. Get your whole right side together and leave the whole right cover off. You should then be Able to put together your whole top end, check clearances then order all your parts at once. Once you have the nut then you can finish your clutch and install all the covers. I would also recommend buying a clutch holding tool that way you can properly torque your nut if you don’t already have this tool. Here’s the link: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-clutch-holding-tool-p
@@stratigos11 I have that same tool and it honestly wouldn't grip the clutch basket when I tried to remove the nut. I then bought a 3/4" Milwaukee Fuel Impact (750 ft. lbs) and it took it off in one blip of the trigger. Obviously I'll need to hold it when I torque it back on but if the tool doesn't hold it I heard I could put it in 5th gear and hold the brake down. I hand tightened the case to avoid getting junk in there but will remove once I get it on the bike and need to finish the clutch. I'm surprised the clutch couldn't be assembled through the clutch cover but if I have to remove the entire right side no big deal. Thanks!
@@bugsysiegals You can try to assemble through just the clutch cover but its tight. I think it's easiest to just take off the whole right cover. Also helps if you have a friend hold the tool while you torque the nut down.
This gangsta did top AND bottom rebuilds with finesse. 👏
You should never push/pull a bearing in from the iner race because you will damage the inside of the outer and the outside of the iner race the ball bearings will flar the top of the iner race and the bottom of the outer race. If you watched this video please dont do this.
My 1990 skateboard has ball bearings .... have they improved the tech like they have in skating. I
great video and timely that i see it - replacing the crank on my son's 2007 kx250f and this makes it a cakewalk.
Hey how hard was doing this I think my crank is bad because my bike is locked up it’s a 2005 Kx250f and I took the top end off and the pistons not broken or anything so idk why it’s locked up
I’m half way through rebuilding a project I got already taken apart😬
How much did this rebuild kit cost an where did u get it from too
I've a 2013 KX250F and I've a collar and 2 o-rings behind the sprocket in the parts diagram. I didn't see you install these, did I miss it? The collar has a single groove inside and I'm wondering if the o-ring goes inside and one on the outside, etc...?
Very helpful - thanks for taking the time to make the vid and post it.
Great videos. Helped a ton with doing these motors.
What model year is this?
hey man i know this is an old video not sure if you even see this comment but it would really help if you did. did you leave shift drum have side to side play in it?
What year is this bike
I accidently dropped the small head bolt by the timing chain down in the case. I could hear it bouncing off of a number of things before it stopped. I tried fishing it out with a magnet and then flipped the bike upside down and I wasn't able to get it out. Do you have any ideas on where it went and how to get it out. is there one side cover I could remove to find it. I really don't want to pull the engine out and rip it all apart. Any help would be greatly appreciated
100cockroach, this is probably way too late, but just take off your stator cover and fish around from there under the crank.
Story of my life
Any tips on torquing some of these nuts without using my 3/4" Milwaukee Impact ... could very well strip things with that beast. I wedged a 12" 3/8 extension in between the flywheel tabs but couldn't hold it while somebody else was torquing the primary drive nut. Somebody recommended a penny wedged between the gears but I'm not sure this trick will work for the several different high torque nuts you just used your Ridgid on ...
bugsysiegals I have seen many people using a penny to torque the final drive nut, but you can do a couple things other then that. The best thing to do is buy a gear/clutch holder tool or put a long punch or metal rod through the opening on the crankshaft rod where the piston connects and put a towel against the case to make sure it doesn’t scratch the cases and then torque to spec.
@@stratigos11 I read about the penny last night and tried it this morning before seeing your comment. It made it to torque, 72 ft lbs, just before sucking the penny through!! I'm not sure if it was from the penny or something else but I found tiny aluminum shavings around the shaft for the clutch hub. I vacuumed and wiped up what I could. I like your method better assuming it wouldn't damage the crank bearing or bend the shaft?
bugsysiegals make sure none of your gears are chipped. Also using a punch or metal rod shouldn’t put any stress on the bearings but like I said the best thing to do is buy a gear holder tool. I think they are like $30. Tusk makes one that that can be a her holder and flywheel holder. Well worth the invest even if you do a few engines over the years.
Would it be the same to buy the top end used and install it
Great video thanks for explaining what each peice is and where it goes. Very informative.
My first job was at a place called Stratigos Banquet Hall in Irwin Pa about 10 or 11 years ago.
how hard was doing this I think my crank is bad because my bike is locked up it’s a 2005 Kx250f and I took the top end off and the pistons not broken or anything so idk why it’s locked up
Shift pawls are being a huge pain please help
My pressure plate is rubbing clutch cover on a rmz250 after clutch install please help
I have a kx250f that's getting water into the case. I've rebuilt the water pump, and planed the head, replaced head gasket. Still water in the oil. Could there be a crack in the case somewhere?
Idk if u have found out the problem or not but i had the same problem with my 07 rmz 250 and it turned out to be the freezeput plug loose, its right next to the spark plug hole in your head, if that doesnt fix it check your cases for cracks on the water channel
2009 kx250f cylinder fit on a 2007 rmz250
Hey man. I have a question about the actuating arm for the clutch!! Please help
What’s your question
@@stratigos11 I put the clutch on and everything. But for some reason when I pull the clutch in. It rubs against the clutch cover. Did I do something wrong?
@@ChrisC1946 make sure you have the basket and plates all the way on
@@stratigos11 they are. The bike runs fine and clutch works but it's weird how it rubs
so what was replaced? what was gained from doing this? Every engine tear down does help with learning, but i'm curious.
Crank was replaced, oil screens, new bearings, gaskets. You ensure a smoother running engine. You never know when you engine is going to blow up and hopefully it never does. There are recommendations on how long a crank or crank bearings will last. If you have a big race or you are going on a long riding trip, you wouldn't want to take a chance on blowing your motor because you didn't take the time to take it apart and inspect it. Especially if you do it yourself.
I'm still a lil confused of stuff my self
Waht for a year is the kx ??
good job man I likr how u work I'm a mechanic my self I'm from the caribbean but I lives in france
very nice looks like you do enjoy working on motors i do to just not as good as you keep it up thank you for your time in making this video
Where did you order your oil screens and o rings from plzz respond back
Rockymountainatvmc
Thanks Jim juste did it 💪😊
For future reference, this guy heats up an old socket, lets it sit in the center hub of the bearing for a minute or two, and is then able to easily slide the crank into the bearing. I suspect you could do this on both crank case halves and make this a whole lot easier ... I'm about to find out in the next week or two. th-cam.com/video/NVp3sd2OyLM/w-d-xo.html
I forgot to order a new clutch hub nut when I ordered all my parts!! SMH I'll likely need to order new bucket shims once I get the top end back together and hate to pay shipping for a nut alone. That said, can I complete the right side of the engine, install the engine, and then open the clutch cover and still be able to torque the clutch hub nut, install the plates, etc.? I've never replaced clutch plates but it seems all this was made accessible for this purpose ... if so, I could order the nut with the bucket shims and not feel so bad.
bugsysiegals I would tighten the nut and leave the clutch apart. Get your whole right side together and leave the whole right cover off. You should then be Able to put together your whole top end, check clearances then order all your parts at once. Once you have the nut then you can finish your clutch and install all the covers. I would also recommend buying a clutch holding tool that way you can properly torque your nut if you don’t already have this tool. Here’s the link: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-clutch-holding-tool-p
@@stratigos11 I have that same tool and it honestly wouldn't grip the clutch basket when I tried to remove the nut. I then bought a 3/4" Milwaukee Fuel Impact (750 ft. lbs) and it took it off in one blip of the trigger. Obviously I'll need to hold it when I torque it back on but if the tool doesn't hold it I heard I could put it in 5th gear and hold the brake down. I hand tightened the case to avoid getting junk in there but will remove once I get it on the bike and need to finish the clutch. I'm surprised the clutch couldn't be assembled through the clutch cover but if I have to remove the entire right side no big deal. Thanks!
@@bugsysiegals You can try to assemble through just the clutch cover but its tight. I think it's easiest to just take off the whole right cover. Also helps if you have a friend hold the tool while you torque the nut down.
great video Stratigos....
Awesome channel.
Nice vid
Thanks for posting this
NICE!
U gotta get better views I cant see how the springs are suppose to go ,
are you greek?
George Drolias Yes
stratigos11 me too! from which place of greece?
George Drolias Chios hbu
Yo bro
Hot Rods crank? You must hate the bike. Those things explode.
BBQ Sandwich, 180 hours on my Crf450r Hotrods crank. They are fine if you install them correctly.
The BBQ Jerk weisco cranks are what you should be afraid of
So wrong the way you pulled in that bearing by the inner race. That is a BIG NO NO.
Dead channel