Awesome work, I am working on my own front suspension design that was inspired by your first baja build. I did my design in Solidworks to simulate the travel, I spent what felt like forever in front of the computer trying to get the geometry right to get the bump steer eliminated and the Ackerman correct. I ended up with a design that will use a custom heim spreader for the steering rack that will put the inner tie rod pivot points in a more desirable location
Excellent work buddy! I wish I could design the entire setup on a computer. I think I'm just to old for that. ;-) A spreader is a good way to go. I thought about that, but because I need to change the height as well I'm going after the spindle. I'm not even calculating the Ackerman, just trying to keep it similar to the old setup as that was pretty good. Nice work and thanks for the comment.
Great video series man! Helping answer so many questions, giving great clear direction, and bringing up issues that give me excellent reconnaissance for what to expect! Thanks for taking the time to put together this series for the benefit of all of us out surfing the web!
Bravo. Excellent work, I have learned a lot watching your videos. I am building a reverse trike and the suspension part of it has me stressed out. Your explanations and effort to teach your viewers has helped me tremendously! Thank you.
Great experience building the front suspension .and then you turn the steering full lock and your world gets a hole new challenge .For fun . you got this Doug . 👍
G'day Kevin from Australia. I'm finding this fascinating. I'm doing the front suspension of my 1963 vw beetle at the moment and your videos do help alot in me understanding the set up of my own project. So thanks for sharing i look forward to your next installment. ✌
Doug, I just found your channel, and I am sure glad I did. I'm prepping my design for a mini Indy F1 (motorcycle engine powered) kit car. Your info on front suspension was easy to understand. Thank you.
You are going way out of your way to show us how things work and should work. Thank you for the visual and explanation! Honestly, I have heard of bump steer but never fully understood it. It makes a lot of sense.
Hey Doug, I bought a suspension analyzer program. You put in your mounting point for and aft of centerline of the axle, up from the ground, left and right centerline of the car..and you can cycle the suspension and look for errors. It also has an optimize function that will check and tell you optimal location..you can get a several day free trial but it has limited features.
Nice set up on the suspension. Get yourself a magnetic Laser level, attach it to the hub and project the beam against the rear wall of the workshop (make sure the frame is square to the wall first and at a known distance) Mark the position of the red dot on a sheet of paper stuck to the wall and repeat for several travel heights, you can easily see the deflection due to bump steer and with a bit of math you can work out the real world angles and decide if they are low enough (you will always have some angle at the extreme travel)
Another super high quality video. Great illustration of how you get bump steer, to bad you have bump steer in your design. I am confident you will correct it!
Just catching up on your channel. I had a hiatus for a couple years from your videos. I have always found it so funny that you're so clean and neat and tidy with your space and your work but the boots never get tied 😂😂
Welcome back bud! I only use those boots for the garage. So I keep them loose so when I come in the house I can step right out of them. Probably not the safest, but, ya know. 😉
Good job man. I always see your videos. I hope someday do what you are doing. Im learning a lot. thanks. I would love to make a frame chassis in the future that fits a bug body on it. maybe In five years. I send greetings from Uruguay.
Great video! After watching this and the ackerman video, I'm wondering if you might consider switching to rear steer and move the steering box upward closer to where the line between the upper and lower inner control arm pivots converge toward each other? Should help alleviate some of your bump steer and ackerman difficulties all in one shot.
I haven't decided yet. I'm mocking things up now and I'll decide what works best. Might just try to eliminate the bump steer and do what I can for the Ackerman. Hopefully I'll hav an answer in the next video. Thanks for the comment.
"That's bump steer." -Doug Bug Awesome video! I knew about bump steer, but never actually seen how and why it happens. I also read somewhere a while back that the UCA should be shorter than the LCA to add negative camber as you lean and turn. I'm not sure if you did that, it kinda looks like you built that into your spindle with the upper and lower part offset.
J Dawg, Your picture reminds me of the Grunts from Halo. Typically the UCA is shorter for the reasons you stated. Mine is a little tiny bit shorter, but not by much. I set up my geometry so it stays pretty true. Shorter UCA would yield better performance in cornering and landings. But it would limit my overall travel some. Because of the spindle angle at full droop. But your info is correct. Thanks for the comment.
@@DougBugBuilder XP Ah sweet! The only thing I've fabricated suspension wise was leaf spring hangers, perches and spindle gussets. I really want to one day build a trophy kart or baja bug. That Subaru I rebuilt put me in the hole a bit and I'm still tinkering with my Tacoma. Trying to decide if I want a full roll cage or just a roll bar. I built a bolt in bed cage for my 16" shocks awhile back, but am going to fabricate a welded in bed cage. So many projects...
Those are 3/4" heims, but when you install the high mis-alingment spacers you end up using 1/2" bolts in them. With those you can get 30 degrees in each direction, 60 degrees total.
@@DougBugBuilder Perfect, thank you! I’m helping my son and his friends build an off road “buggy”…..and showed them a spindle with ball joints…..and then your spindle on your channel…..they obviously went “that’s cool, how do we build it?”. I ordered a 3/4” Heim for upper and lower….now to build the spindle….god help us…lol! Your videos have been wonderful in this process….thank you for all your great posts!
Sounds like you're doing a good job planning your build. Those front spindles are 1" uniballs. With the misalingment spacers they have 9/16" bolts going through them.
You are correct. This design (forward steer) has no Ackerman to it. Actually has the opposite. With my rack placement and forward steering correct Ackerman is really just a dream. Not to sound like a butcher but on a rear engine chassis I've never even noticed having such bad Ackerman.
Blows my mind how you only have 6.6k subs. Keep at it man, you’re unbelievably inspiring and I think you can really go places with this channel. Do you have any desire to race any of the things you build?
Thanks Zack, appreciate the positive feedback. My goal is to build a high performance solid buggy. Then take it around to a few events like Jump Champs and have fun with it like that. Not interested in actual races like the Baja 500 or anything. But smaller events sound fun and affordable.
Would adding an inner tie rod spacer, to place the attachment point of the tie rod in line with the steering arm mounts work to eliminate the bump steer?
Yes it would. But I typically don't like to modify the racks. But when I measure how much the pivot needs to move I'll make the final call as to make the change at the spindle or rack.
Well, I'm not 100% sure yet. But I think the problem at full droop is that the steering rod is not parallel with the Lower Control Arm. So at the lower extreme it's causing it to pull on the spindle. Causing the tow in.
you changed the ackerman when you changed the pivot point for the tie rod. better to change the point at the box instead. has to do with what the tires do at lock or steering.
Ackermann steering looks impossible with your setup. To achieve Ackemann you need the pivot point of your control arm moving further out. You may get in contact with the break rotor. I think it‘s better to move the steering rack behind the (theoretical) front axle. Other than that I really like your work and the level of attention you put into every detail. 👍
@@BeeTourBo Hey, you're correct! Ackerman on a forward steer is basically impossible. Especially with where my rack is. I'll tell you a secret...... It's a rear engine Baja, the front is so light especially under power ackerman doesn't really matter for me. I was going to go over that in the next video. But you're already figuring that out. A+ for you buddy! ;-)
You are right. And when I make the adjustments the ackerman will be even worse. I don't want to mess with the steering rack though. Along with correcting the bump steer there are a couple other things I want to help by making the spindle arm a little different. But kudos to you on the ackerman, you know your stuff.
Doug Bug There are a couple of examples out there with forward steer. For example rock crawlers with solid axle. The knuckle design makes it possible I guess. The king pin or however it’s called is located further inboard. Anyway, it’s as you mentioned - it doesn’t really matter for you. And if you don’t like it in the end we will get another great video about fixing it 😉
@@DougBugBuilder pick one arm to run your steering from, upper or lower, upper is probably the easiest and would net you the shorter tie rod which with center mount makes packaging easier. knuckle wont care as long as its plated enough and clears the breaks/rim. thats what i would do, assuming youcant find a sweet spot in the middle. use your scale model to plot different tie rod locations. also honestly in an offroad car you really dont need much ackerman, do what the drift guys do and thats almost constant angle.
Your spindle looks pretty good, but the inner steering pivot on the box looks way off...basically you draw a line thru the spindle pivot points and the outer steering pivot has to be thru that line...and the inner steering pivot has to be parallel to the lower control arm and also has to be in a line drawn thru the inner control arm pivots.... and yes there should be camber gain as you compress the suspension.... You haven't mentioned castor and possible anti dive.... Looks like a nice project :)
The castor is 7 deg, but it will be adjustable with the upper control arm. I'm not considering anti dive, or I'm not designing around it. I'm hoping to make some adjustments to the spindle to get the steering rod parallel, and to get the steering rod the same length and the LCA. The steering rod does not have to be inline with the control arm pivot points. It can be a little in or out as long as the length is the same as the control arms. I mean I wish they were inline. But there is some room to fudge one way or another. Thanks for the comment, good points to consider.
To straighten out the steering rod I would need to lower the steering box. And the bracket it's on now is as low as it can go. So going any lower is out. So I'm kinda forced to make the changes at the spindle.
Bump steer means that your suspension geometry and steering geometry are not in sinc. So as the suspension goes through it's travel the steering link essentially changes its length. This in turn makes the wheels toe in or out some. That's "Bump Steer". In the next videos you'll see me work to bring the suspension and steering geometry in sinc. When I do this the steering will stay consistent throught the suspension travel. I hope that answers your question.
Great question! I leaned the control arms back together so when the Baja is traveling forward under normal acceleration the suspension will be leaned back. 7 deg if the chassis is flat, more if it's accelerating. This causes the components to travel back a little when the suspension is compressing. Softening the forces on it. Now it's horrible for diving under braking. But with such soft suspension and so much travel that's just something I have to compromise.
Doug Bug I’m very curious as to how this will ride now hmm. Just a suggestion but could you add 2 extra mounting holes for the rear of the UCA mount that would enable you to move the rear of the UCA up or down and change the anti dive numbers. To see how much of a difference it will make while driving. It will definitely help Lee the nose from diving under heady breaking or decrease chassis bind in the whoops, depending on what adjustment you make. Hmm what about talking about it in one ur next sus videos, would love to hear your thoughts!
@@brycewood4109 Your idea of making multiple points on the UCA tabs is gold. I might experiment with that. Thanks for the idea. When the Baja is up and running I'll swing by and pick you up so you can see how it rides. Lol.
I got all those chassis bits at Kartek Offroad. Here's a link to the uniballs I used. www.kartek.com/parts/fk-rod-ends-34-id-1-38-od-wssx12t-ptfe-coated-uniball-spherical-bearings-f2-fit.html
so, your steering bar should be the same length as the other pivot points, in addition to being parallel, is that correct ? and if your searching -0+ travel you may have to reconfigure the steering box as well... or live with a slight variation in the perfect -0+ travel scenario,
i used the word "travel" but i might something else having to do with steering and how it changes with the travel, im not familiar with all the suspension vocabulary im just trying to provoke thought anyways ! looks like so much fun :D
@@lastfanstanding999 The steering bar needs to be the average of the upper and lower control arms in length. Because they are not the same length. Although really close. And it needs to be parallel at ride height for best results. But the pivot points don't necessarily need to be inline. So I shouldn't need to change the rack. Just move over the point on the spindle. I believe that should get it near right on. And I can live with a little bump, but needs to be way better than it is now.
Yes, I could modify the top portion of the rack to spread the pivot points out to put it inline with the suspension pivot points. But I don't really like to modify the steering racks. So I'll make the needed changes out at the spindle.
My caster is built into the front portion of the chassis. It is raked up 8 degrees. So I start with 8 degrees of caster. Then I can make adjustments with the upper control arm.
It also helps to have the uniball stored in a freezer to shrink it a bit to aid in installation. A trick I learned from aviation.
Awesome work, I am working on my own front suspension design that was inspired by your first baja build. I did my design in Solidworks to simulate the travel, I spent what felt like forever in front of the computer trying to get the geometry right to get the bump steer eliminated and the Ackerman correct. I ended up with a design that will use a custom heim spreader for the steering rack that will put the inner tie rod pivot points in a more desirable location
Excellent work buddy! I wish I could design the entire setup on a computer. I think I'm just to old for that. ;-)
A spreader is a good way to go. I thought about that, but because I need to change the height as well I'm going after the spindle. I'm not even calculating the Ackerman, just trying to keep it similar to the old setup as that was pretty good.
Nice work and thanks for the comment.
Great video series man! Helping answer so many questions, giving great clear direction, and bringing up issues that give me excellent reconnaissance for what to expect! Thanks for taking the time to put together this series for the benefit of all of us out surfing the web!
Glad it may have helped you, thanks for the comment!
Bravo. Excellent work, I have learned a lot watching your videos. I am building a reverse trike and the suspension part of it has me stressed out. Your explanations and effort to teach your viewers has helped me tremendously! Thank you.
Glad it's helping buddy!
Thanks for letting me know, and good luck with that build.
One of the best car building channels out there. Very few explain their work like Doug. Keep up the great work man!
Great experience building the front suspension .and then you turn the steering full lock and your world gets a hole new challenge .For fun . you got this Doug . 👍
Lol, thanks bud.
G'day Kevin from Australia.
I'm finding this fascinating. I'm doing the front suspension of my 1963 vw beetle at the moment and your videos do help alot in me understanding the set up of my own project.
So thanks for sharing i look forward to your next installment. ✌
Hello Kevin.
Glad you are liking the videos and that they are helping some with your build. Thanks for the comment, now go work on you bug. ;-)
Doug, I just found your channel, and I am sure glad I did. I'm prepping my design for a mini Indy F1 (motorcycle engine powered) kit car. Your info on front suspension was easy to understand. Thank you.
Good deal man! Thanks for the comment and good luck on the build.
You are going way out of your way to show us how things work and should work. Thank you for the visual and explanation! Honestly, I have heard of bump steer but never fully understood it. It makes a lot of sense.
It's worth it when I get comments like this. ;-)
Glad the video was able to visualize bump steer for you. You just got smarter. lol
Hey Doug, I bought a suspension analyzer program. You put in your mounting point for and aft of centerline of the axle, up from the ground, left and right centerline of the car..and you can cycle the suspension and look for errors. It also has an optimize function that will check and tell you optimal location..you can get a several day free trial but it has limited features.
Work of master ,beautiful job 👍👏👏
Thanks Bud!
Nice set up on the suspension.
Get yourself a magnetic Laser level, attach it to the hub and project the beam against the rear wall of the workshop (make sure the frame is square to the wall first and at a known distance) Mark the position of the red dot on a sheet of paper stuck to the wall and repeat for several travel heights, you can easily see the deflection due to bump steer and with a bit of math you can work out the real world angles and decide if they are low enough (you will always have some angle at the extreme travel)
I might look into doing that. Thanks for the idea.
Another super high quality video. Great illustration of how you get bump steer, to bad you have bump steer in your design. I am confident you will correct it!
Thanks Tim, I certainly do what I can to get as little bump steer as I can.
Just catching up on your channel. I had a hiatus for a couple years from your videos. I have always found it so funny that you're so clean and neat and tidy with your space and your work but the boots never get tied 😂😂
Welcome back bud!
I only use those boots for the garage. So I keep them loose so when I come in the house I can step right out of them. Probably not the safest, but, ya know. 😉
And to think this all started with an actual Bug, great work as always. Thanks for the video.👍👍
It's turning out to be an expensive Bug. lol
Thanks for the comment.
Good job man. I always see your videos. I hope someday do what you are doing. Im learning a lot. thanks. I would love to make a frame chassis in the future that fits a bug body on it. maybe In five years. I send greetings from Uruguay.
Thanks Buddy! I hope you learn enough from these videos that when you do get to do it the project goes nice and smooth.
Greeting from America.
Another awesome and educational video! Keep up the good work!
Thanks!
Great video! After watching this and the ackerman video, I'm wondering if you might consider switching to rear steer and move the steering box upward closer to where the line between the upper and lower inner control arm pivots converge toward each other? Should help alleviate some of your bump steer and ackerman difficulties all in one shot.
I haven't decided yet. I'm mocking things up now and I'll decide what works best. Might just try to eliminate the bump steer and do what I can for the Ackerman. Hopefully I'll hav an answer in the next video.
Thanks for the comment.
Good stuff.
Keep it coming.
👌😁
Cool Video!
Thanks guys!
I enjoy watching you guys working on your trucks too.
use a steering box and make a swing for it that way you dont get any bump steer it makes steering much easier and your hands wont hurt as much
"That's bump steer." -Doug Bug
Awesome video! I knew about bump steer, but never actually seen how and why it happens.
I also read somewhere a while back that the UCA should be shorter than the LCA to add negative camber as you lean and turn. I'm not sure if you did that, it kinda looks like you built that into your spindle with the upper and lower part offset.
J Dawg, Your picture reminds me of the Grunts from Halo.
Typically the UCA is shorter for the reasons you stated. Mine is a little tiny bit shorter, but not by much. I set up my geometry so it stays pretty true. Shorter UCA would yield better performance in cornering and landings. But it would limit my overall travel some. Because of the spindle angle at full droop.
But your info is correct. Thanks for the comment.
@@DougBugBuilder XP
Ah sweet! The only thing I've fabricated suspension wise was leaf spring hangers, perches and spindle gussets. I really want to one day build a trophy kart or baja bug. That Subaru I rebuilt put me in the hole a bit and I'm still tinkering with my Tacoma. Trying to decide if I want a full roll cage or just a roll bar. I built a bolt in bed cage for my 16" shocks awhile back, but am going to fabricate a welded in bed cage. So many projects...
@@JDawgBuilds Build the trophy cart, that would be a fun build in my opinion.
Suspension is tacked together. Time to take it for a ride.
Lol..... Not this time. I'll be damn sure this chassis is all welded up before she hits the trail. ;-)
I don't need to go through that again.
Está ficando muito bom .
Obrigado parceiro!
Aluminum angle iron? Thanks for the video just getting ready to start my next build. Spent 2k on a beam setup last time. Figure 500 to build my own.
Lol, it might cost a little more just for the hardware. But I get your point.
Don't worry, the aluminum angle is just for mock up.
Love your videos! What heim joint are you using in the steering knuckle? How many degrees do you get out of it? Thank you!
Those are 3/4" heims, but when you install the high mis-alingment spacers you end up using 1/2" bolts in them. With those you can get 30 degrees in each direction, 60 degrees total.
@@DougBugBuilder Perfect, thank you! I’m helping my son and his friends build an off road “buggy”…..and showed them a spindle with ball joints…..and then your spindle on your channel…..they obviously went “that’s cool, how do we build it?”. I ordered a 3/4” Heim for upper and lower….now to build the spindle….god help us…lol! Your videos have been wonderful in this process….thank you for all your great posts!
Awesome man danca for sharing
What about lifting out tie end so it sits on top of control arm
very good videos my friend, I have 5 years planning my suspension and buying the tool I hope I can make them, what measure of uniball did you use?
Sounds like you're doing a good job planning your build.
Those front spindles are 1" uniballs. With the misalingment spacers they have 9/16" bolts going through them.
Nice fab work. However I see a problem . Your spindle appears to have no Ackerman angle to it.
You are correct. This design (forward steer) has no Ackerman to it. Actually has the opposite. With my rack placement and forward steering correct Ackerman is really just a dream. Not to sound like a butcher but on a rear engine chassis I've never even noticed having such bad Ackerman.
Blows my mind how you only have 6.6k subs. Keep at it man, you’re unbelievably inspiring and I think you can really go places with this channel. Do you have any desire to race any of the things you build?
Thanks Zack, appreciate the positive feedback.
My goal is to build a high performance solid buggy. Then take it around to a few events like Jump Champs and have fun with it like that. Not interested in actual races like the Baja 500 or anything. But smaller events sound fun and affordable.
Doug Bug understandable, just have fun with it!
Would adding an inner tie rod spacer, to place the attachment point of the tie rod in line with the steering arm mounts work to eliminate the bump steer?
Yes it would. But I typically don't like to modify the racks. But when I measure how much the pivot needs to move I'll make the final call as to make the change at the spindle or rack.
What caused the bump steer? Won’t moving the steering mounting point inboard just cause more tow in at full droop?
Well, I'm not 100% sure yet. But I think the problem at full droop is that the steering rod is not parallel with the Lower Control Arm. So at the lower extreme it's causing it to pull on the spindle. Causing the tow in.
you changed the ackerman when you changed the pivot point for the tie rod. better to change the point at the box instead. has to do with what the tires do at lock or steering.
Ackermann steering looks impossible with your setup. To achieve Ackemann you need the pivot point of your control arm moving further out. You may get in contact with the break rotor. I think it‘s better to move the steering rack behind the (theoretical) front axle.
Other than that I really like your work and the level of attention you put into every detail. 👍
@@BeeTourBo Hey, you're correct! Ackerman on a forward steer is basically impossible. Especially with where my rack is. I'll tell you a secret...... It's a rear engine Baja, the front is so light especially under power ackerman doesn't really matter for me. I was going to go over that in the next video. But you're already figuring that out. A+ for you buddy! ;-)
You are right. And when I make the adjustments the ackerman will be even worse. I don't want to mess with the steering rack though. Along with correcting the bump steer there are a couple other things I want to help by making the spindle arm a little different. But kudos to you on the ackerman, you know your stuff.
Doug Bug There are a couple of examples out there with forward steer. For example rock crawlers with solid axle. The knuckle design makes it possible I guess. The king pin or however it’s called is located further inboard.
Anyway, it’s as you mentioned - it doesn’t really matter for you. And if you don’t like it in the end we will get another great video about fixing it 😉
@@DougBugBuilder pick one arm to run your steering from, upper or lower, upper is probably the easiest and would net you the shorter tie rod which with center mount makes packaging easier. knuckle wont care as long as its plated enough and clears the breaks/rim.
thats what i would do, assuming youcant find a sweet spot in the middle.
use your scale model to plot different tie rod locations.
also honestly in an offroad car you really dont need much ackerman, do what the drift guys do and thats almost constant angle.
Your spindle looks pretty good, but the inner steering pivot on the box looks way off...basically you draw a line thru the spindle pivot points and the outer steering pivot has to be thru that line...and the inner steering pivot has to be parallel to the lower control arm and also has to be in a line drawn thru the inner control arm pivots.... and yes there should be camber gain as you compress the suspension....
You haven't mentioned castor and possible anti dive....
Looks like a nice project :)
The castor is 7 deg, but it will be adjustable with the upper control arm. I'm not considering anti dive, or I'm not designing around it.
I'm hoping to make some adjustments to the spindle to get the steering rod parallel, and to get the steering rod the same length and the LCA. The steering rod does not have to be inline with the control arm pivot points. It can be a little in or out as long as the length is the same as the control arms. I mean I wish they were inline. But there is some room to fudge one way or another.
Thanks for the comment, good points to consider.
Can’t you achieve your tie rod angel to the LCA by just raising the steering box and not cutting up the steering knuckles them selves?
To straighten out the steering rod I would need to lower the steering box. And the bracket it's on now is as low as it can go. So going any lower is out. So I'm kinda forced to make the changes at the spindle.
How do your pivot points and steering points correlate to bump steer at rebound and compression?
Bump steer means that your suspension geometry and steering geometry are not in sinc. So as the suspension goes through it's travel the steering link essentially changes its length. This in turn makes the wheels toe in or out some. That's "Bump Steer". In the next videos you'll see me work to bring the suspension and steering geometry in sinc. When I do this the steering will stay consistent throught the suspension travel.
I hope that answers your question.
Doug Bug I was talking about your set up not in general. I’ll follow your next videos though
Just curious but why aren’t u running a 100% anti dive instead of more of less?
Great question! I leaned the control arms back together so when the Baja is traveling forward under normal acceleration the suspension will be leaned back. 7 deg if the chassis is flat, more if it's accelerating. This causes the components to travel back a little when the suspension is compressing. Softening the forces on it. Now it's horrible for diving under braking. But with such soft suspension and so much travel that's just something I have to compromise.
Doug Bug I’m very curious as to how this will ride now hmm. Just a suggestion but could you add 2 extra mounting holes for the rear of the UCA mount that would enable you to move the rear of the UCA up or down and change the anti dive numbers. To see how much of a difference it will make while driving. It will definitely help Lee the nose from diving under heady breaking or decrease chassis bind in the whoops, depending on what adjustment you make. Hmm what about talking about it in one ur next sus videos, would love to hear your thoughts!
@@brycewood4109 Your idea of making multiple points on the UCA tabs is gold. I might experiment with that. Thanks for the idea.
When the Baja is up and running I'll swing by and pick you up so you can see how it rides. Lol.
Doug Bug I’ll have to take you up on that 😂
What type of heim joint uniball you use? Where i can buy them
I got all those chassis bits at Kartek Offroad. Here's a link to the uniballs I used.
www.kartek.com/parts/fk-rod-ends-34-id-1-38-od-wssx12t-ptfe-coated-uniball-spherical-bearings-f2-fit.html
Doug Bug you genius you! lol :] ]
so, your steering bar should be the same length as the other pivot points, in addition to being parallel, is that correct ?
and if your searching -0+ travel you may have to reconfigure the steering box as well... or live with a slight variation in
the perfect -0+ travel scenario,
i used the word "travel" but i might something else having to do with steering and how it changes with the travel,
im not familiar with all the suspension vocabulary im just trying to provoke thought anyways ! looks like so much fun :D
@@lastfanstanding999 The steering bar needs to be the average of the upper and lower control arms in length. Because they are not the same length. Although really close. And it needs to be parallel at ride height for best results. But the pivot points don't necessarily need to be inline. So I shouldn't need to change the rack. Just move over the point on the spindle. I believe that should get it near right on. And I can live with a little bump, but needs to be way better than it is now.
@@DougBugBuilder okay awesome, great job man, im anxious to see how it all works out,
Wooooo
Is it possible to move the steering rack?
Yes, I could modify the top portion of the rack to spread the pivot points out to put it inline with the suspension pivot points. But I don't really like to modify the steering racks. So I'll make the needed changes out at the spindle.
Doug Bug i meant like moving the whole unit forward abd building a bracket that bolts to the existing holes to put them where you need them
@@Moneygrip Ahhh...... I can move it but that won't change the geometry. So I wouldn't gain anything from that.
Doug Bug the bracket youd bolt to could move the mounting points of the tie rod ends
What about your caster. That is the most important part.?r
My caster is built into the front portion of the chassis. It is raked up 8 degrees. So I start with 8 degrees of caster. Then I can make adjustments with the upper control arm.
Hey man if you need help welding your bug let me know I whould be down to help man I ain’t asking for money I whould just like to weld
are your neighbors giving you hell about using your chop-saw at 2am ? lol :] ]
(im joking)
Lol, no. I at least try to stay quiet if it gets to late. ;-)
Stop …….
That is not the way to make A arms, very weak connection links