Pretty sure the upper arm is just there to keep alignment. The most pressure it'll face is a transverse force hitting the wheels/tires. The lower arm is the one that needs to be hella beefy. It'll be facing the wheel, suspension, and bumpstop.
That's some great work . I stumbled on your Chanel about a year or so ago when I started looking into fabrication for my own car , it's not even a Baja bug , but the theory and your fabrication method are just as applicable. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Its great to see that really worth spend so much time in project and design, to get it done in one shot. I'm working in my own Trophy truck in CAD, and i hope all that come together like yours. Greetings from Brazil
I have a trike that I was building for my dad. Unfortunately he passed and now I’m wanting to go another direction or sell it and start fresh. Can’t wait for the rear suspension videos. 😉😉
Sorry about your dad, sounded like a cool project. The rear suspension should be starting in the next couple weeks. Sorry about the late reply, this apparently slipped through the cracks. 👍
It has been a while since I watched any of your vids. Now I have to play catch-up because it seems that both your fab skills and presentation ability are a notch above. Really generous of you to share your Bend Tech files. I don't have it yet, but guys like you are motivating me!
You have literally inspired my to start my build. I always knew it was going to be a lot of work and seemed kinda impossible but man your work is amazing!! just the depth of detail you not only put in your work but also take us followers with you and explain everything you do. I just wanna say thank you from a guy thats starting his build from the ground up
G'day Kevin here from Australia. Another great installment. Every video I'm still amazed at what your doing. Looking forward to seeing your next video. ✌ Peace man.
It's much easier to be accurate using metal plate. You can draw them up in 2D CAD, then have them laser cut, and weld them up. I don't know which is stronger, but I've hit some good jumps with these and they are doing just fine. So that's why I didn't make them out of tube steel.
Great video and information. Really giving me the itch to dig out my old full suspension mower build and get back at it. Would really like to know how you keep your shop that clean.
Do you run Fox shocks? Have you ever noticed a rattle or strange noise on small sharp bumps at low speed? My son has Fox 2.5 with DSC on a Chevy Silverado and he’s had them apart 3x ...
This chassis will run Locked shocks. But the other Baja has Fox shocks and they rattle a lot. It used to bother me a lot, but apparently it's common. They rattle less when they are valved pretty tight.
Hi, man. I was waiting your clips, it's nice to see you again. You have the plasma cutter and you make pieces like you want it, it's wonderfull. Can i ask you something? To me it seems as i see on video, that the upper arm it's much stronger that the lower arm, But the connection to the chasssis and to the spindle are weeker than the arm. Maybe you see it different. As i understand the forces are bigger on the lower arm, that meens you can do the upper arm lite. You gain less weight. Don't be upset at me, i just asking. You are the boss. 😂
You're correct, I think I did make the upper arm stronger than it needs to be. I might change it at some point. But for now it will just be a little overbuilt. 👌
No, as I'm showing it here they will bind a little. But when I set up the straps and bump stops I'll be limiting travel. And I'll make sure it doesn't bind from lock to lock. Thanks for asking, you're paying close attention to details. ;-)
I am a year too late :D but yes, You are right - the arm is overbuilt. it could loose 5lbs and still would be as strong as is now. made a model of Your design and did a quick sim :)
That's interesting, Once this thing is up and running I plan to come back around and make some of this a little lighter/better. If you have any cool images of the sim can you send them to me at dougbugbuilder@gmail.com. Thanks.
@@DougBugBuilder if you set up a three-piece steering shaft with a couple of swivel joints you can pretty much run it wherever you need to clear the alarm I would think
@@lindaharding1548 I could do that, but another swivel in the steering shaft would be another point of failure. I'm always trying to keep the steering as simple as possible because it's so vital that it doesn't fail.
@@DougBugBuilder Bingeing/catch-up on these and had the same question. As the steering shaft at that point is inboard (range of travel needed for the arm effectively less) what would have happened turning the flat of the arm 90 degrees and making a vertical "slot" so the top arm could move full range ? Might be all sorts of reasons that would not work weight and strength among them.
Yes, I figured how much camber change I wanted when I laid out the upper control arm pivot point. I lowered the upper pivot a little at the chassis so I get a little gain at compression, but not much. To much gain and it binds the steering arm pretty quick. Sorry about the late reply, just had a bunch of old comments come through.
First off, I am a big fan of what you got going on, this is my dream, I am in the beginning stages of development and design, could you tell me how you decided what cv axles and hubs to use, and why, thanks
On this build I'll be using U Joints. I like those because they will go to a higher angle than CV do. But keep in mind you can't use U Joints with trailing arms. It needs to be A Arms, because of plunge. This build all around will be using Toyota 4Runner hubs. Mainly because they are cheap, strong, and readily available. Also for some reason I like my builds to be a little different than what you typically see. 👍 Hope that helps you some. Good Luck.
@@yamakawg9739 On the first chassis I made I got most of the driveshaft parts from the junkyard from late 90's Jeep Grand Cherokees. But once I got hem home I cut them up and welded them up to what I needed. So weather you get them from a junk yard or new doesn't really matter. You'll assemble them as you need.
If I have get started on this I'll have to ask some advice if that's cool ? I deal more with wood so this would all be new to me but does seem like a fun project. I got some1 I would cut all the parts. Trying to find an older bug to use for this. Then next stage is buying all the pipe. Do it in sections. To keep the coast dw as in little hear little there not all at once.
Hi, could you tell me your opinion, pros and cons about CV axles with double-cardan joint to the diff and U-joint to the hub? I want to make these type of connections to replace stock 8.25" diff on my 1500 ram with 9.25" diff from ram 2500
Personally for a setup like that I would go with the Double Cardan and U Joint setup. Ditch the CV. You'll get more angle with the U Joints, and in my opinion easier to maintain. I'm not a big fan of CV's.
Very impressive. I am starting a Baja two wheel drive Ramcharger and these videos are exactly what I need. Is there some reason you didn’t run the shock inside a void in the upper control arm?
Yes, good question. I needed to push the upper control arm forward some to clear the steering shaft going up to the column. So for that reason the upper control arm has both connection points in front of the shock absorber. It would be stronger to go around it, but I didn't have the clearance.
That makes sense. I am starting with a 2wd 84 ramcharger and I am going for the Ramstien look. I have the fiberglass fenders; hood and read bed fenders coming soon. I figure that will set my overall wheelbase up front and rear.
That makes sense. I am starting with a 2wd 84 ramcharger and I am going for the Ramstien look. I have the fiberglass fenders; hood and read bed fenders coming soon. I figure that will set my overall wheelbase up front and rear.
That makes sense. I am starting with a 2wd 84 ramcharger and I am going for the Ramstien look. I have the fiberglass fenders; hood and read bed fenders coming soon. I figure that will set my overall wheelbase up front and rear.
That makes sense. I am starting with a 2wd 84 ramcharger and I am going for the Ramstien look. I have the fiberglass fenders; hood and read bed fenders coming soon. I figure that will set my overall wheelbase up front and rear.
Good job. Looks way over built but I think the heims are the week point if there is one. Subarugears make an LS adapter to run a subaru trans that would handle the 300hp 5.3 fine.
I'm sure at some point I'll make another pair of arms. But I'll wait until she's up and running. I agree with you on the heims. I've looked at what Subaru gears has before, not sure what way I'm going to go yet on the transaxle. But thanks for the tip. 👍
For the least amount of stress on the components I wanted to keep the shock mounting locations at 90 degrees from the pivots of the control arms. But you're right, that would allow me a little more flexibility.
Those are heims not bushings. So it can pivot on those for steering. Here is a link to the files, it's under front suspension. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JwoGlqkAq18eCFAUdGsxt_qeq6SsublL
@ That’s great, thank you. I just needed to watch a couple more videos. This is exactly the information I was looking for. I’m gearing up to convert my sand rail from VW to all Toyota. I’ll keep watching. Thanks again for the great content.
That's this guy right here. Although mine is blue. amzn.to/3odD9QF Kinda a cheap little thing. But actually works really well and can do a lot of things.
No.... But I wish. If I could get my hands on a Tesly motor, drive, and battery I would definitely do that. 👍 I'm looking at the Weddle HV25 transaxle.
Your upper design looks week on the open unsupported end. The Amount of flex durring operation doesn't seem to be adequate for the amount of material used. It looks good and yea the bug is light. But the bashing and extreme use with design makes me scratch my head.
Pretty sure the upper arm is just there to keep alignment. The most pressure it'll face is a transverse force hitting the wheels/tires.
The lower arm is the one that needs to be hella beefy. It'll be facing the wheel, suspension, and bumpstop.
That's some great work . I stumbled on your Chanel about a year or so ago when I started looking into fabrication for my own car , it's not even a Baja bug , but the theory and your fabrication method are just as applicable. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Thanks buddy!
And yes, most of what I do hear can be carried over to really any kind of chassis or vehicle.
@@DougBugBuilder You got me at the spindle prototype. 😏
Its great to see that really worth spend so much time in project and design, to get it done in one shot. I'm working in my own Trophy truck in CAD, and i hope all that come together like yours. Greetings from Brazil
It's great to see things come together. Hope the trophy truck comes out well. Greetings from America!
Great content! Your presentation of the details along with your fab skills are spot on!
Thanks buddy!
An LS on that thing would be absolutely amazing. I’d love to see that! Great videos man.
You could drive out to glamis and meet up with Wilkey and the other bug builders 😂
It won't have an LS on the first go, but I'd imagine eventually I'll have one in there. That would be fuuuuun!
I have a trike that I was building for my dad. Unfortunately he passed and now I’m wanting to go another direction or sell it and start fresh. Can’t wait for the rear suspension videos. 😉😉
Sorry about your dad, sounded like a cool project. The rear suspension should be starting in the next couple weeks. Sorry about the late reply, this apparently slipped through the cracks. 👍
It has been a while since I watched any of your vids. Now I have to play catch-up because it seems that both your fab skills and presentation ability are a notch above. Really generous of you to share your Bend Tech files. I don't have it yet, but guys like you are motivating me!
Thanks buddy, welcome back!
You have literally inspired my to start my build. I always knew it was going to be a lot of work and seemed kinda impossible but man your work is amazing!! just the depth of detail you not only put in your work but also take us followers with you and explain everything you do. I just wanna say thank you from a guy thats starting his build from the ground up
Awesome comment! These are what I love hearing. Take you time and don't get overwhelmed. And keep watching my videos. 😉
Good luck.
G'day Kevin here from Australia.
Another great installment. Every video I'm still amazed at what your doing. Looking forward to seeing your next video.
✌ Peace man.
Hello Kevin! Always good to hear from you mate.😊
Great video!! Plasma table is cutting awesome! Good job!
Thanks guys, still dialing it in. But it's already saving me some time.
Saludos desde Colombia muy buen trabajo gracias por tus vídeos
¡Gracias amigo! Agradezco las amables palabras. ¡Saludos desde América!
great video! thanks for sharing your tips and experience on your projects.
Well designed and executed. I like how you keep the geometry on point. Making the wooden jig is so important. Time well spent to get good results.
Totally agree with you on the Jig. Really hard to do it without one. Thanks for the comment.
Great update on this huge engineering project Baja. I really like how you get this accomplished. Thanks for sharing all the details. BigW:-)
Thanks Big W!
Amazing project!!! is there any technical reason why you arent fabricating the control arms bending strong thick tubes??
It's much easier to be accurate using metal plate. You can draw them up in 2D CAD, then have them laser cut, and weld them up. I don't know which is stronger, but I've hit some good jumps with these and they are doing just fine. So that's why I didn't make them out of tube steel.
Great video and information. Really giving me the itch to dig out my old full suspension mower build and get back at it. Would really like to know how you keep your shop that clean.
Lots of workbenches and shelves so I can hide things away and keep the work area clear......Now go work on that mower! ;-)
Excelente trabajo!! Me gustaría aprender hacer todo eso, saludos!! Sin llorar..
Sigue leyendo y viendo videos y llegarás allí. Gracias por el comentario y por ver los videos.
Looking good Mike.
Thanks!
Looks rock solid mate 👍
Thanks Buddy!
upper control arm has way lower loads than lower
Great project so far !
Thanks!
Do you run Fox shocks? Have you ever noticed a rattle or strange noise on small sharp bumps at low speed? My son has Fox 2.5 with DSC on a Chevy Silverado and he’s had them apart 3x ...
This chassis will run Locked shocks. But the other Baja has Fox shocks and they rattle a lot. It used to bother me a lot, but apparently it's common. They rattle less when they are valved pretty tight.
Will the steering rack not foul the upper arm at full droop and turning right in the situation you were showing?
It might if I didn't limit it. But I'll have limit straps keeping it from dropping that far down. 👍
Amazing work Bro!!!!
Thanks 🔥
Hi, man.
I was waiting your clips, it's nice to see you again.
You have the plasma cutter and you make pieces like you want it, it's wonderfull.
Can i ask you something?
To me it seems as i see on video, that the upper arm it's much stronger that the lower arm,
But the connection to the chasssis and to the spindle are weeker than the arm.
Maybe you see it different.
As i understand the forces are bigger on the lower arm, that meens you can do the upper arm lite.
You gain less weight.
Don't be upset at me, i just asking.
You are the boss.
😂
You're correct, I think I did make the upper arm stronger than it needs to be. I might change it at some point. But for now it will just be a little overbuilt. 👌
@@DougBugBuilder thanks man, you are a good guy.
Did you check full droop and full compression with rack turned each direction
No, as I'm showing it here they will bind a little. But when I set up the straps and bump stops I'll be limiting travel. And I'll make sure it doesn't bind from lock to lock.
Thanks for asking, you're paying close attention to details. ;-)
I am a year too late :D but yes, You are right - the arm is overbuilt. it could loose 5lbs and still would be as strong as is now. made a model of Your design and did a quick sim :)
That's interesting, Once this thing is up and running I plan to come back around and make some of this a little lighter/better. If you have any cool images of the sim can you send them to me at dougbugbuilder@gmail.com.
Thanks.
Could you not make the top arm more like the bottom. And have the shock coil overs tru the middle.
I'd like to do that but the steering shaft is in the way. That's the only reason I have the upper arm so far forward.
@@DougBugBuilder if you set up a three-piece steering shaft with a couple of swivel joints you can pretty much run it wherever you need to clear the alarm I would think
@@lindaharding1548 I could do that, but another swivel in the steering shaft would be another point of failure. I'm always trying to keep the steering as simple as possible because it's so vital that it doesn't fail.
@@DougBugBuilder Bingeing/catch-up on these and had the same question. As the steering shaft at that point is inboard (range of travel needed for the arm effectively less) what would have happened turning the flat of the arm 90 degrees and making a vertical "slot" so the top arm could move full range ? Might be all sorts of reasons that would not work weight and strength among them.
Are you building these to a class or free styling it. Like if you entered it in to any S.C.O.R.E race what class would it be
This is a Freestyle build. No intention to race in any endurance event. But I'd love to maybe do something like Jump Champs.
@@DougBugBuilder Heck yeah buddy we'll be at jump champs this year among many other fun events that'd be awesome to see you out there
Doug Bug i was going to say this thing is probably pretty much a class 1 style build man whens it getting 37” tires are 800 horsey
@@carbonshocks Looks like we got ourselves a convoy!
@@Moneygrip It might not get that big. ;-)
doing a great job
Thanks!
What about camber gain? Did you consider it?
Yes, I figured how much camber change I wanted when I laid out the upper control arm pivot point. I lowered the upper pivot a little at the chassis so I get a little gain at compression, but not much. To much gain and it binds the steering arm pretty quick. Sorry about the late reply, just had a bunch of old comments come through.
First off, I am a big fan of what you got going on, this is my dream, I am in the beginning stages of development and design, could you tell me how you decided what cv axles and hubs to use, and why, thanks
On this build I'll be using U Joints. I like those because they will go to a higher angle than CV do. But keep in mind you can't use U Joints with trailing arms. It needs to be A Arms, because of plunge. This build all around will be using Toyota 4Runner hubs. Mainly because they are cheap, strong, and readily available. Also for some reason I like my builds to be a little different than what you typically see. 👍
Hope that helps you some. Good Luck.
@@DougBugBuilder was there a specific vehicle you used the u joints from, or are they custom using u joint shafts from a 4x4? Thanks
@@DougBugBuilder I'm just trying to get an understanding of what hubs and shafts can or should be used.
@@yamakawg9739 On the first chassis I made I got most of the driveshaft parts from the junkyard from late 90's Jeep Grand Cherokees. But once I got hem home I cut them up and welded them up to what I needed. So weather you get them from a junk yard or new doesn't really matter. You'll assemble them as you need.
The U Joints on the first chassis were 1310's.
How far do you plan on jumping the old girl
I'd be happy if I could jump it over my Wrangler.... 😊
Looking amazing been wanting to do a build like this ! 😍 would it be difficult to make this 4x4? Also interested on how you get the bug shell on
Not to difficult, but the center section would need to be redesigned to allow for a differential. I think that would be the most challenging part.
If I have get started on this I'll have to ask some advice if that's cool ? I deal more with wood so this would all be new to me but does seem like a fun project. I got some1 I would cut all the parts. Trying to find an older bug to use for this. Then next stage is buying all the pipe. Do it in sections. To keep the coast dw as in little hear little there not all at once.
awesome!!!!!!!!
EZGZ, good to hear from you buddy!
Hi, could you tell me your opinion, pros and cons about CV axles with double-cardan joint to the diff and U-joint to the hub? I want to make these type of connections to replace stock 8.25" diff on my 1500 ram with 9.25" diff from ram 2500
Personally for a setup like that I would go with the Double Cardan and U Joint setup. Ditch the CV. You'll get more angle with the U Joints, and in my opinion easier to maintain. I'm not a big fan of CV's.
Congratulations, excelente, thanks.
Many thanks!
Very impressive. I am starting a Baja two wheel drive Ramcharger and these videos are exactly what I need.
Is there some reason you didn’t run the shock inside a void in the upper control arm?
Yes, good question. I needed to push the upper control arm forward some to clear the steering shaft going up to the column. So for that reason the upper control arm has both connection points in front of the shock absorber. It would be stronger to go around it, but I didn't have the clearance.
That makes sense. I am starting with a 2wd 84 ramcharger and I am going for the Ramstien look. I have the fiberglass fenders; hood and read bed fenders coming soon. I figure that will set my overall wheelbase up front and rear.
That makes sense. I am starting with a 2wd 84 ramcharger and I am going for the Ramstien look. I have the fiberglass fenders; hood and read bed fenders coming soon. I figure that will set my overall wheelbase up front and rear.
That makes sense. I am starting with a 2wd 84 ramcharger and I am going for the Ramstien look. I have the fiberglass fenders; hood and read bed fenders coming soon. I figure that will set my overall wheelbase up front and rear.
That makes sense. I am starting with a 2wd 84 ramcharger and I am going for the Ramstien look. I have the fiberglass fenders; hood and read bed fenders coming soon. I figure that will set my overall wheelbase up front and rear.
Good job. Looks way over built but I think the heims are the week point if there is one. Subarugears make an LS adapter to run a subaru trans that would handle the 300hp 5.3 fine.
I'm sure at some point I'll make another pair of arms. But I'll wait until she's up and running. I agree with you on the heims.
I've looked at what Subaru gears has before, not sure what way I'm going to go yet on the transaxle. But thanks for the tip. 👍
If you would have made the upper rear mount farther back, you could have run the shock thru the hole in the upper.
For the least amount of stress on the components I wanted to keep the shock mounting locations at 90 degrees from the pivots of the control arms.
But you're right, that would allow me a little more flexibility.
Where do you get your rod ends and bungs from?
I get all my bits like that from KarTek Offroad.
www.kartek.com/
Nothing wrong with overbuilt.
Am I missing something, how does that spindle pivot?
I think I see it. You mentioned a way to download its construction. Is that listed somewhere in this playlist?
Those are heims not bushings. So it can pivot on those for steering.
Here is a link to the files, it's under front suspension.
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JwoGlqkAq18eCFAUdGsxt_qeq6SsublL
@ That’s great, thank you. I just needed to watch a couple more videos. This is exactly the information I was looking for. I’m gearing up to convert my sand rail from VW to all Toyota. I’ll keep watching. Thanks again for the great content.
What bender do you use for the flat bar
That's this guy right here. Although mine is blue.
amzn.to/3odD9QF
Kinda a cheap little thing. But actually works really well and can do a lot of things.
You are not thinking about a Tesla rear driveunit? The ”trans” and electric motor will be a realy cool way to go.
No.... But I wish. If I could get my hands on a Tesly motor, drive, and battery I would definitely do that. 👍
I'm looking at the Weddle HV25 transaxle.
Doug Bug you know that a Weddle trans cost is a lot. Here in Scandinavia a Model S,P driveunit is about 3000$.
@@maxprea5331 Yes I do, here in the states it will cost about $10,000usd. That's why I've been planning about a year to get it.
How mush caster are you running
8 degrees, it's works pretty good. It pulls back to center pretty good, but steering isn't to difficult either.
Wow🔥
How much turning radius do you got
30 degrees each way, so 60 degrees total steering.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Your upper design looks week on the open unsupported end. The Amount of flex durring operation doesn't seem to be adequate for the amount of material used. It looks good and yea the bug is light. But the bashing and extreme use with design makes me scratch my head.
I think it's strong enough, but I won't know for sure until I get it in the dirt.
bend tech...x 1000
What the he'll do you do for a living lmao
I started out as a welder for a HVAC company. Now I'm an Infrastructure Engineer. Basically a HVAC tech. Everything I do in these videos is hobby.