Holy crap I'm looking around at videos as some pre - research and holy Hannah I'm glad you told us about that bolt lock up on the crank counterweight. Frig Had I gone at this I would have definitely free wheeled myself into some trouble 😓
Might be easier if you have the space and hoist to do it. In these little Vegas garages I had neither. Motor ran fine after this job though, so it was worth the hassle.
Head was warped something awful. Had a machine shop in Vegas take.care of that part. Got about 35 or 40,000 more miles out of this little engine before the rest of the car fell apart
Hi, thank you so much for the info, I am replacing a head gasket too, the only thing I don’t get ( I am not a professional) is if before I start removing the timing chain and then the cams, do I need to do anything timing related? Do I have to get it to TDC or use the timing tool? Or is that after I have changed the head gasket? I guess what I am trying to ask is if there is something I need to to do before removing the cams to ensure good timing or is all of that after? Thank you so much for your help!
@@mikeup91 You're welcome, my video isn't a complete walk through on the process, but more of a 'tips' video. There is a series of videos out there that walk you through the entire timing process and they're really good. Just search for mazda 2.3L timing and you'll find them. GOod luck!
@@jcx2bby thank you! One more thing, did you have any problem while removing the engine mount? Did you use an pneumatic wrench ? Mines seem to be really hard to get loose!
Very informative! Do you mind sharing the video on how to remove the camshaft pulley? I can’t get pass that process and as you said it is really a beast. I tried to “bump start” the engine while having a wrench/cheater bar but I must be doing something wrong. Engine just stops and it is not continuing with the crank.
The only thing that worried me was when you explained loosening the crankshaft pulley bolt. You said you had the socket on a long bar, then jamming it against the ground bumped it loose using the starter- As the crank pulley has no key and as soon as the pulley nut becomes loose the valves will stay in one place ( as the timing chain sprocket isn't being clamped anymore) while the crank is going round- There's a big risk of the pistons hitting the valves if you crank it too much - Obviously you got away with it but it's a bit risky.
Thanks, but I should have taken more video as I got it back together, the timing process, sealing the timing cover etc. I really was busy though and just needed to get it done. The procedure i'd give a solid 5 out of 10. Buy a Chilton's manual before you do this, takes a lot of guesswork out. Most of the job is done with ordinary hand tools except for the timing tools, a tool to hold the crank in position when reassembling, and you need an impact wrench (a good one) to remove the crank pulley bolt. I did it without an impact, but it was sketchy.
Awesome video! About to tackle my Mazdaspeed this weekend. Only difference is I have a high pressure fuel pump and a turbo to worry about :/. Do you have a part 2 by chance?
No part 2, sorry. I don't have experience with the turbo version, but I imagine once you get that out of the way, the rest is the same/similar. Good luck, if you get stuck, I might be able to help out. I have some other little videos on my channel about removing the crank bolt and reinstalling it....it was a beast.
I bought all the parts from RockAuto, even with shipping it is cheaper than the box stores and simpler than Amazon. I do trust AZ and O'R, but Rockauto saved me like 200 bucks over what they wanted. The box stores have their place, and I like to support them because of things like the used oil dropoff, but I'm not giving my money away either, lol.
Basic hand tools will get the job done. And by basic I mean a good set of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive sockets and ratchets. Screwdrivers and pliers and such.
Do you happen to know if this is the same engine in the 2008 mazda tribute , my problem is a nasty leak coming from the engine and I was going to replace all the oil seals including the rear and front main oil seals , oil pan , oil pump , but if I have to go thru all this to get to the front main seal , im just gonna junkyard the vehicle. it looks like in this video that maybe the front main seal is already behind an enclosed oil area and maybe I dont have to pull the crank gear ? hard to find info on these possible oil leaks , plus our mazda is just an A To B vehicle for a college student and I would be doing this in my garage , thanks for reading any help would be great brother
First, I am not sure if it is the same motor or not. But if it is, I can tell you this much. You won't be able to replace the rear seal without pulling the motor. I didn't replace the oil pan gasket on this car so not sure about that process. Timing cover seal isn't a seal, it is rtv and it's that way from the factory. For the front seal, you'll have to pull the crank pulley off to replace it, and that means making sure you can retime the cams to the crank. Anytime you pull that pulley, you separate the timing and it needs to be rechecked.
@@jcx2bby Thanks bud , Im overseas working and trying to armchair quarterback the parts im going to need , according to the VIN its the 2.3l but it is in a mazda tribute which is actually a ford , so I am hoping it is the oil cooler which is a known flaw , so I ordered an entire seal kit off ebay and am hoping I just get lucky and thats all it is , I am an aircraft mechanic by trade and working on it is not a problem , the vehicle started having just a few drops every now and then and then almost overnight started really leaking bad which usually would not be signs of a main seal , fingers crossed , thanks for your help
@@markod442 oh right on, my first 4 years in the AF was hydro for C17s, don't miss it though haha. I agree, seals don't usually give out overnight so you may have a bad line or cooler. From what I remember reading on this motor when I was working on it, Ford and mazda used the same 2.3 so your car should be similar to identical
@@jcx2bby I have my fingers crossed, there's lot to this story and why I have to get it running asap as in the day I get home , Im willing though to pull the motor apart if I have to , I mean I have to pull the motor out anyway if its nothing apparent, so stupid of the engineers not putting a pilot shaft or even an arrow on the cam gears and crank gear , I know there is a tool to lock out the cams and a tool to lock the crank but I would rather not have to buy those tools , its not even my vehicle , but thanks for the chat bro
Can you remove the timing cover without removing the top camshaft cover? I am assuming you have to because of the timing set up of the camshafts and crankshaft but don't know for sure. I just need to reseal the timing cover.
I am not 100 pct certain on this, but I am thinking it's possible. Youd have to still loosen the valve cover bolts at least to release tension. And I do believe you would have to fully remove 3 or 4 bolts that go thru the valve cover down into the timing cover. As far as the timing goes, if you put that locking bolt through the crankcase to block piston #1 from turning, you should, in theory, not have to worry about retiming anything. Cams aren't going to move so as long as block that crank from turning while removing & installing that crank pulley you "should" be ok. Judgement call. There is no gasket for the timing cover btw. Just gray RTV. It's like that from the factory
@@jcx2bby, thank you so much. I need to do re do the rtv for the timing cover. My timing cover is leaking. I would like to just remove the timing cover, clean old rtv and place back. My concern is the timing, I think I can lock the crankbolt, but I would like to avoid removing the valve cover and locking the camshafts... do you think is possible?
@@Keepin-it-wheel101 I think so. Like I said the cams won't move just because you take the crank pulley off, so long as you block that crank from moving.
What off when the engine is speed and the pulling bolt got lose. So the timing have done wrong and I have reset it many times but when I want to start it the car will be shutting. What is the problem for it not to start.
We'll honestly it's still not back together yet, waiting on the machine shop to finish the head. Took about 2 days to tear down, but I work slow and have a toddler under my feet constantly. I anticipate 2 days to get it going again barring any problems. A good experienced mechanic could do it in a day if they had a new head on hand
Hey man is the chain on that engine timed. I know engine is but i see marks on timing chain and on oil pump chain but nothing to line up to? Thanks a lot if u can help
No timing on the chain as connected to the gears that I'm aware of. Just slide it on. I just drove this Mazda 1400 miles so it seems like I got it together good enough!
@@jcx2bby thanks man. I just didn't know what the black marks were for. And vids i watch and research it never says that it is oriented a certain way. Thank you I will roll with it
I unbolted the exhaust manifold because we were taking the head off the next day. I had time to do it before I made the video so that's why it's loose here. I didn't do anything to the subframe.
For overhead cam engines, yes. For old school pushrod overhead valve engines, no. They are a different animal and don't require retiming the cams to the crank. But there are a few other things that must be done on OHV engines that don't have to be done on OHC engines.
Should’ve changed the timing chain since you were in there anyway. These motors love to jump time on the intake side and you’ll be doing a valve job then. I’m about to do this job on my mother in laws escape.
I agree with you, however, it wasn't my car and it was pulling teeth to get the parts I absolutely had to have, let alone parts that weren't 'broken'. Car is still running as of today, a good 15K miles later so I guess he gambled good on this.
Yeah, we went back with the original timing set in the end. It was ok on this engine. The head gasket was the main issue here. That, and the fact my buddy kept running it after it blew.
Number 55 hex head...And use a 1/2" extension. As I had several snap off my 3/8" they are that tight. Also toque to yield bolts. Use them only once. Same for the Crank bolt and friction washers behind the gears for the timing chain. And torque that new Crank bolt 75lbs then 90 degrees. While that Crank lock down bolt is still in there. Because if that balancer spins just 5 degrees. It shoves the valves right through the piston. I use locktite blue just too make damn sure that balancer is not budging. As everything spins off that bolt staying tight..
![“อาร์ต พศุตม์” เกือบเอี่ยวทุกคดีดัง เอ๊ะไว้ก่อน ไม่มีอะไรได้มาง่ายๆ | แฉ 16 ต.ค. 67 [2/3] | GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0Gx-0-kUBv8/mqdefault.jpg)
![[DRIP] ‘BILLIONAIRE’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m0eXQD0gIeE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks Man! I learned more in your 8 min video than in the 26 min. vid I watched earlier from someone else. You explained it very well.
I appreciate that feedback very much. Glad to have helped, good luck with your repair.
instablaster
Holy crap I'm looking around at videos as some pre - research and holy Hannah I'm glad you told us about that bolt lock up on the crank counterweight. Frig Had I gone at this I would have definitely free wheeled myself into some trouble 😓
Haha, yeah she's tricky! Good luck with your repairs
Seems like itll be easier to pull the motor to work on, and if motor is stuffed I'm halfway to putting in a new 1, thanks for the vid!
Might be easier if you have the space and hoist to do it. In these little Vegas garages I had neither. Motor ran fine after this job though, so it was worth the hassle.
Just did the same job. I used a 1500 lb 3/4 drive impact gun took that bolt off easy on medium setting.
@@darthwelder652 I did this job back when I had almost no good tools, I have probably 7 impacts now, including a 3/4 lol.
Thanks. I have a 08 Mazda 6, same 2.3l. Very enlightening video, a lot of finer points you don't normally see.
Thank you kind friend....so many negative folks out there, makes me feel good to hear that you found it useful
so did the gasket fix it or was the block or head warped? Got a line on a $650 '99 626 with a "blown head gasket" and wondering if its worth it.
Head was warped something awful. Had a machine shop in Vegas take.care of that part. Got about 35 or 40,000 more miles out of this little engine before the rest of the car fell apart
Just curious if u had a video that shows more of the head removal.
Did you find more complète ? I am looking too
Good Video! Just changed a headgasket in a Nissan.
thank you very moch
Thank you sir
Hi, thank you so much for the info, I am replacing a head gasket too, the only thing I don’t get ( I am not a professional) is if before I start removing the timing chain and then the cams, do I need to do anything timing related? Do I have to get it to TDC or use the timing tool? Or is that after I have changed the head gasket? I guess what I am trying to ask is if there is something I need to to do before removing the cams to ensure good timing or is all of that after? Thank you so much for your help!
No, you can just start unbolting everything. No special precautions necessary. You'll get it all back in time when you put it back together.
@@jcx2bby thank you so much man! I really appreciate your time to answer and all of your help through the videos! Thanks a lot.
@@mikeup91 You're welcome, my video isn't a complete walk through on the process, but more of a 'tips' video. There is a series of videos out there that walk you through the entire timing process and they're really good. Just search for mazda 2.3L timing and you'll find them. GOod luck!
@@jcx2bby thank you! One more thing, did you have any problem while removing the engine mount? Did you use an pneumatic wrench ? Mines seem to be really hard to get loose!
@@mikeup91 I used the battery powered impact wrench on most of that kind of stuff. I have a DeWalt one
Love tips like this
Thank you
Very informative! Do you mind sharing the video on how to remove the camshaft pulley? I can’t get pass that process and as you said it is really a beast. I tried to “bump start” the engine while having a wrench/cheater bar but I must be doing something wrong. Engine just stops and it is not continuing with the crank.
Sorry it took so long to reply. Here's how we did it. th-cam.com/video/_HrJS8IXQR4/w-d-xo.html
Don't do that! You can spin the engine out of time and cause more damage. Get a good impact!
"Counter wank....counter weight", lol. Great vid, btw!! Thank you.
Thank you. Glad to have helped
The only thing that worried me was when you explained loosening the crankshaft pulley bolt. You said you had the socket on a long bar, then jamming it against the ground bumped it loose using the starter- As the crank pulley has no key and as soon as the pulley nut becomes loose the valves will stay in one place ( as the timing chain sprocket isn't being clamped anymore) while the crank is going round- There's a big risk of the pistons hitting the valves if you crank it too much - Obviously you got away with it but it's a bit risky.
Risky for sure. But we were careful. Here's the vid if you want to see how we did it. th-cam.com/video/_HrJS8IXQR4/w-d-xo.html
How hard was this prosses for you 1 thru 10 10 being hardest ?
A+ video
Thanks, but I should have taken more video as I got it back together, the timing process, sealing the timing cover etc. I really was busy though and just needed to get it done.
The procedure i'd give a solid 5 out of 10. Buy a Chilton's manual before you do this, takes a lot of guesswork out. Most of the job is done with ordinary hand tools except for the timing tools, a tool to hold the crank in position when reassembling, and you need an impact wrench (a good one) to remove the crank pulley bolt. I did it without an impact, but it was sketchy.
th-cam.com/video/_HrJS8IXQR4/w-d-xo.html
very good video thank you
Thank you for your comment and viewership
Hey man what size e torx is the head bolt
@@takudzwam1670 shucks man it's been too many years ago and I no longer have access to this car. Sorry I can't tell you
Awesome video! About to tackle my Mazdaspeed this weekend. Only difference is I have a high pressure fuel pump and a turbo to worry about :/. Do you have a part 2 by chance?
No part 2, sorry. I don't have experience with the turbo version, but I imagine once you get that out of the way, the rest is the same/similar. Good luck, if you get stuck, I might be able to help out. I have some other little videos on my channel about removing the crank bolt and reinstalling it....it was a beast.
@@jcx2bby I appreciate it! I'll check it out. Where did you buy your head gasket set? Do you trust O'Reilly's and places like that? Or Amazon?
I bought all the parts from RockAuto, even with shipping it is cheaper than the box stores and simpler than Amazon. I do trust AZ and O'R, but Rockauto saved me like 200 bucks over what they wanted. The box stores have their place, and I like to support them because of things like the used oil dropoff, but I'm not giving my money away either, lol.
what tools is necesary for removal cylinder head?
Basic hand tools will get the job done. And by basic I mean a good set of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive sockets and ratchets. Screwdrivers and pliers and such.
Do you happen to know if this is the same engine in the 2008 mazda tribute , my problem is a nasty leak coming from the engine and I was going to replace all the oil seals including the rear and front main oil seals , oil pan , oil pump , but if I have to go thru all this to get to the front main seal , im just gonna junkyard the vehicle. it looks like in this video that maybe the front main seal is already behind an enclosed oil area and maybe I dont have to pull the crank gear ? hard to find info on these possible oil leaks , plus our mazda is just an A To B vehicle for a college student and I would be doing this in my garage , thanks for reading any help would be great brother
First, I am not sure if it is the same motor or not. But if it is, I can tell you this much. You won't be able to replace the rear seal without pulling the motor. I didn't replace the oil pan gasket on this car so not sure about that process. Timing cover seal isn't a seal, it is rtv and it's that way from the factory. For the front seal, you'll have to pull the crank pulley off to replace it, and that means making sure you can retime the cams to the crank. Anytime you pull that pulley, you separate the timing and it needs to be rechecked.
@@jcx2bby Thanks bud , Im overseas working and trying to armchair quarterback the parts im going to need , according to the VIN its the 2.3l but it is in a mazda tribute which is actually a ford , so I am hoping it is the oil cooler which is a known flaw , so I ordered an entire seal kit off ebay and am hoping I just get lucky and thats all it is , I am an aircraft mechanic by trade and working on it is not a problem , the vehicle started having just a few drops every now and then and then almost overnight started really leaking bad which usually would not be signs of a main seal , fingers crossed , thanks for your help
@@markod442 oh right on, my first 4 years in the AF was hydro for C17s, don't miss it though haha.
I agree, seals don't usually give out overnight so you may have a bad line or cooler. From what I remember reading on this motor when I was working on it, Ford and mazda used the same 2.3 so your car should be similar to identical
@@jcx2bby I have my fingers crossed, there's lot to this story and why I have to get it running asap as in the day I get home , Im willing though to pull the motor apart if I have to , I mean I have to pull the motor out anyway if its nothing apparent, so stupid of the engineers not putting a pilot shaft or even an arrow on the cam gears and crank gear , I know there is a tool to lock out the cams and a tool to lock the crank but I would rather not have to buy those tools , its not even my vehicle , but thanks for the chat bro
Oh I should have mentioned just like you said there are markers at the back of the two cams and one on the harmonic balancer
Awesome vid ! Helped alot! THx for the upload! please keep making more !!!
You're welcome
Can you remove the timing cover without removing the top camshaft cover? I am assuming you have to because of the timing set up of the camshafts and crankshaft but don't know for sure. I just need to reseal the timing cover.
I am not 100 pct certain on this, but I am thinking it's possible. Youd have to still loosen the valve cover bolts at least to release tension. And I do believe you would have to fully remove 3 or 4 bolts that go thru the valve cover down into the timing cover.
As far as the timing goes, if you put that locking bolt through the crankcase to block piston #1 from turning, you should, in theory, not have to worry about retiming anything. Cams aren't going to move so as long as block that crank from turning while removing & installing that crank pulley you "should" be ok. Judgement call.
There is no gasket for the timing cover btw. Just gray RTV. It's like that from the factory
And get a new crankshaft seal for that timing cover too.
@@jcx2bby, thank you so much.
I need to do re do the rtv for the timing cover. My timing cover is leaking.
I would like to just remove the timing cover, clean old rtv and place back. My concern is the timing, I think I can lock the crankbolt, but I would like to avoid removing the valve cover and locking the camshafts... do you think is possible?
@@Keepin-it-wheel101 I think so. Like I said the cams won't move just because you take the crank pulley off, so long as you block that crank from moving.
What off when the engine is speed and the pulling bolt got lose. So the timing have done wrong and I have reset it many times but when I want to start it the car will be shutting. What is the problem for it not to start.
Sorry man, I don't quite understand the issue
How long did it take you to change out the Head gasket?
We'll honestly it's still not back together yet, waiting on the machine shop to finish the head.
Took about 2 days to tear down, but I work slow and have a toddler under my feet constantly. I anticipate 2 days to get it going again barring any problems. A good experienced mechanic could do it in a day if they had a new head on hand
Hey man is the chain on that engine timed. I know engine is but i see marks on timing chain and on oil pump chain but nothing to line up to? Thanks a lot if u can help
No timing on the chain as connected to the gears that I'm aware of. Just slide it on. I just drove this Mazda 1400 miles so it seems like I got it together good enough!
@@jcx2bby thanks man. I just didn't know what the black marks were for. And vids i watch and research it never says that it is oriented a certain way. Thank you I will roll with it
Do i always need a especial tool for the timing?
Well, you need some kind of tools to hold it all in place while you torque everything down. The tools are free to rent if you're in the states
Hey man I seen you un bolted exhaust manifold. Is that cuz you dropped sub frame.
I unbolted the exhaust manifold because we were taking the head off the next day. I had time to do it before I made the video so that's why it's loose here. I didn't do anything to the subframe.
Oh dang sorry just thot it was timing chain job. Okay so the Jack under is just to support engine cuz engine mount is off?
@@jamessoliz8020 haha, no prob brother. Yes, jack under oilpan with a piece of plywood to distribute the weight, while the engine mount was off.
Just pull one of them exhaust studs out. Use it to lock that crank.....Worked for me.
That's pretty dang slick, thank you for sharing that trick!
Looks way easier than in a 05 ranger ask me how I know I can't believe they have no keyway on the crank
Nope no keyway but it works. Car is still running up in Washington state
leave the ecu on the battery box, just disconnect the two connecters
My question is...how do you remain calm
Maybe he isn't calm some of the time? :o
its like a puzzle
Eh. It's just a car
what is the torque spec for the head bolts?
5 step sequence.
97 in lbs
12.5 ft lbs
35 ft lbs
90 degrees
90 degrees
All done in order working your way from the center of the head to the outside
Gotta love Ford ingenuity. Making your life miserable one repair at a time.
Lol. It was a challenge
@@jcx2bby I own a 2005 Mazda 6 w/ the 3.0L...I know your pain first hand.
Would this he the same for a 2009 mazda
Hmm, I can't say for sure. I'm not familiar with all the different years models and engines. Is yours a 2.3L?
I don’t think your suppose to take that bolt out of the crank right? Why did you do it😆?
I took it off because the crank pulley itself was broken. Believe me, I didn't want to.
This is a pretty complicated job!!! Is this how it is when changing Head Gaskets on most cars???
For overhead cam engines, yes. For old school pushrod overhead valve engines, no. They are a different animal and don't require retiming the cams to the crank. But there are a few other things that must be done on OHV engines that don't have to be done on OHC engines.
@@jcx2bby an older sohc car is a bit easier to start on, you still have to remove all the components attached to the head haha
I have a 2008 Mazda 3 same motor as that one it won't start it's a 5 speed and it won't even push start
Have you checked compression? First thing I'd do, other than check for fuel
@@jcx2bby no I have not I haven't been able to work on it yet I have no tools but sometime this week I will have them
@@jcx2bby it don't crank ither
@@jonaldiyofficial8074 ohhh, if it doesn't crank that could be bad, assuming battery and starter are ok
@@jcx2bby yes they are both good
Should’ve changed the timing chain since you were in there anyway. These motors love to jump time on the intake side and you’ll be doing a valve job then. I’m about to do this job on my mother in laws escape.
I agree with you, however, it wasn't my car and it was pulling teeth to get the parts I absolutely had to have, let alone parts that weren't 'broken'. Car is still running as of today, a good 15K miles later so I guess he gambled good on this.
That’s not the head gasket hats the valve gaskets wtf u talking abt
Guess you didn't watch the entire video. It's ok.
natiashka cepei mp3
u talk to much man just do the god damm job
Switch to decaf buddy.
If you maintain proper oil changes, the timing chain along with the gears will last over 200k miles.
Yeah, we went back with the original timing set in the end. It was ok on this engine. The head gasket was the main issue here. That, and the fact my buddy kept running it after it blew.
What is the size of the head bolts
Number 55 hex head...And use a 1/2" extension. As I had several snap off my 3/8" they are that tight. Also toque to yield bolts. Use them only once. Same for the Crank bolt and friction washers behind the gears for the timing chain. And torque that new Crank bolt 75lbs then 90 degrees. While that Crank lock down bolt is still in there. Because if that balancer spins just 5 degrees. It shoves the valves right through the piston. I use locktite blue just too make damn sure that balancer is not budging. As everything spins off that bolt staying tight..
Just curious if u had a video that shows more of the head removal.
Sorry, I don't. It isn't terribly hard. Just go slow and take pics.