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@@highcountrystories the 208 is a good case it just has its horsepower limits. Glad the video helped !

@@robertkirkpatrick75 you are correct but we list the 4wd as a k10 from 73-87 in our post as most people know them by that for the most part . When you have a little more knowledge on them knowing in 87 they changed to a “V” series in the 4x4 and a “R” series in the 2wd we know you are in the right place ! thanks for watching!

Thanks for responding. Love the content. I have an 87 v10 I'll be bringing you from east tn for some work in the spring

@@FindingJay awesome colors . Thanks bud

@@ashleyconnelley1856 thank you!

@@tybh thank you!

Thank you and thanks for watching !

@@nickygray4691 yes this truck still has a 2 piece rear shaft. We changed the carrier bearing crossmember to lower it down from its original location. If you are in the range of 4-8” or lift you can get away with cutting the original perch style mount and just lower it down and re weld to keep it on top of the crossmember , but if you go bigger like 10-12” lift you need to get the driveshaft around the center of the crossmember or even below it which will require to cut the whole center out and re make it or completely remove the crossmember and make a new one for the bearing .

@@lad60606 that’s is correct. Snap On air saw

@@notherestillnothing yes that will put you way ahead and really solves the issue for having a full donor vehicle on hand to take the factory crossmembers and mounts out of. Glad the video helped out !

@ Ive been planning on this conversion for a few years and your video has the most info and seems to be the most efficient way of doing it. Thanks

@@jesdowns7085 factory measurement from front spring to upper shackle hanger is right at 47.25” center to center , spring eyes are supposed to be 47” center to center ,It all depends on the spring you plan on running the smaller the spring the less you move the shackle mount forward so if you were running a 4 to 6 inch spring, we would typically move the shackle hanger .25-.50” inch forward because it doesn’t require as much to get the shackle at a good angle. As the spring gets bigger like 8 inch and 12 inch springs we start to move the shackle hanger forward upwards of 1 inch due to the arch in the springs creating a bad angle on the shackle the bigger the spring the worse it gets normally. This also differs by brand of spring as well. keeping the shackle straight up and down or slightly pitched back at the spring end lets the shackle move back at an easier rate and gives a smoother ride and suspension travel. Unfortunatley this is a one shot deal to drill the hole and set the mount unless you slot the frame so I would recommend mounting the front of the springs and the axle to the springs. Lowering the vehicle down and let the shackle end of the spring ride on the frame and see where it ends up resting once the weight is completely on them with motor and drivetrain in the vehicle . This will give a really close idea to where it will end up once the shackle is mounted. The only thing you don’t want to do is mount the shackle upper mount to far forward especially on a c/k30 chassis as the frame swells down right after the shackle and if you have to much lay back on your shackle the spring will end up contacting the frame when the suspension flex’s down on bumps etc. thanks for watching !

@ thanks so much for taking the time to give such a good reply - you guys are rad Builders 🤙🏻🤙🏻

@@jesdowns7085 we appreciate the support!

@@dustyhiebert5748 the Fuel Twitch wheel is built in a 20x10 with a -18 offset.