Finally! A tech putting in some actual info and opinions. I just bought one of these, and it seems like every video is just Dave from accounting explaining how "throaty" their new muffler delete is, and 3M taping some thin aluminum foglight brackets to their roof rack.
I have this exact car. Same color too but I deleted the exterior brass highlights with matte black film (kept the badge). I HAVE 245/65/17's on it, and Motegi MR139 7.5X17's with a 40 MM offset. Falken Trail AT's (the non LT version for this size range. They offer both) I did a lot of research and math before I bought this combination, and it worked well on paper, so I rolled the dice and came out a winner. But let me share some details on what to look for, and why I did certain things. I learned a LOT about tires and wheels and offsets and a dozen other things when I started down the path to answer this same question. Why a different offset for instance. Well, you want to stay centered in the wheel well. I was running on the assumption that the stock tire was more or less centered, and used this for a baseline. Then I factored in the offset of the stock wheel. I then added the larger width of the new tire I knew I wanted to this equation, and then found a range of offsets that would be optimal to keep ballparked in the center of the wheelwell space. I say a range, because when you go to shop wheels, you will find limited options, usually dependant on sizes of the wheel, intended purposes, etc. My MR139 was in my optimal range at 40 (and I am going on memory here for both the offset and the model number so hopefully I remembered correctly), and was also a lightweight wheel. Why did I go with 7.5X17 instead of the stock 7X17? Well, again I am putting a wider tire on it, and I also plan to air down, so I did not want my sidewalls bubbling out so much when aired down, or even when aired up for that matter. It is better support, and less exposure for sharp rocks, while still remaining within the width that works well geometrically in that wheelwell space.. Just because a tire will fit onto a wheel, does not mean it is a good choice, especially when going oversized with a specific purposed tire, like an AT in a relatively small well. I wanted to avoid the downfalls of a super heavy wheel tire combo as I did this upgrade, and I was willing to spend a bit more, to get a lighter wheel that was still built with Rally DNA and strength. So I got a lighter than stock wheel to offset the weight of a larger tire. And then, when shopping tires, I found the Falken Trail AT tires, which have a Crossover Hybrid option specifically designed for cars like the Subaru's, and Rav4's and the like. Most of the time in this size range (245's) you are limited to truck tire spec'd tires. But we don't have trucks, we have crossover SUV's and Cars. So what Falken did was offer a P version, a non LT version, that is not 15 lbs heavier per tire. It's more like 7 lbs. But it still has superior load rating (Just not the cargo rating of a Truck) over stock, and so even a fully trek modded Subaru is going to benefit from the load rating, but not pay for the extra weight of load rating you don't need. The construction is still AT DNA, and that means stiffer sidewalls for airing down, and aggressive treads that are the same as the LT version. So I saved about 4 lbs on each wheel, and about 7 lbs. on each tire. My wilderness already has a lower final gear, and I didn't add that much weight to my corners, so in some situations (HWY) my MPG is actually better than it was before, or at least the same because my effective final gear with larger circumference tires, has been raised more towards the economy end from the torquey end. But this car has still got plenty of torque with the larger tires. Now for conflicts. I have a finger width (I have slim fingers) clearance even at my narrowest clearance angle on turning, which ironically is NOT full crank, but a bit less, where the corner edge of the wheel is aimed at a part of the wheelwell front area that is starting to curve inwards towards the center. Now I measured this on the ground, but with the Wilderness you only get MORE clearance going into the round wheelwell with your round tire, assuming correct offsets, so if anything I would have MORE clearance being on top of a boulder on that front wheel and more compression. And downwards is not a problem either, at least that I have ever experienced. I have had ZERO rubbing. Im not constantly traversing rock gardens, but I have been on a few very rutted trails, over rocks and curbs while turning etc, and there is no rubbing with this combination on my 22 Wildebeast. Now lets discuss the spare tire compartment. NO it will not fit fully aired up with the foam tool caddy. But I DO carry my full sized spare in my spare tire compartment. How? I removed the foam tool caddy number one (and there is still TONS of room for tools and bottle jacks and tow ropes etc, just not in THAT shaped carrier. Number 2, you DO need to air down a LOT. Probably to about 5 pounds or less. Just enough to keep a bead. And your car WILL be supported on a few pounds and you SHOULD carry a pump if you are doing this, to top it off. Number 3, you cannot place the tire FLAT, and you cannot screw it down. But you don't need to. It's hard enough to get it in. It sure as hell isn't going to fall out or wiggle. Mine is at an angle with plenty of room around it, under it, and over it inside the wheel. I carry a lot of stuff in there and purposely put some ropes and towels over it to help support the bottom of the hatch door, which is the bottom of your cargo compartment. The tool caddy served this purpose of additional support before. Not that the hatch is flimsy or anything but I wouldnt want to be stacking anvils or batteries on it, and it's peace of mind to have some support under it so it won't have room to flex downwards. The hatch fully and easily shuts, and it is a very clean solution that keeps crap off of your back hatch, roof rack, or stowed in the car or trailer. I don't know if ALL 245/65's fit in the Wilderness, and I can't speak to other outbacks either, but I assume they have similar wheel wells even tho they don't have our strut based lift. I do not know if other tires from other brands will work here, like the popular KO2 which I nixed for weight. But I DO know that most of the people who post about rubbing and conflicts, and try to solve this with lifts, have other issues, like the wrong wheel width that bubbles out the sidewall, or the wrong offset, that takes the wheel from being lined up in the very center of the wheel well. I also know that the Falken Trail AT non LT version was specifically engineered for crossovers that generally have smaller wheel wells, and this was engineered into the geometry of the tire. You still get the size and agressive tread, but the parts that would normally be rubbing on fenders are tucked in just a wee bit better on the tire edge. If you want to go largest, you don't want to do it on stock wheels, although I have seen SOME specific tire combinations be bragged about with stock wheels in this size range.. All tires have slightly different geometries so it will vary. If you are going to use aftermarket wheels and go to this size, I don't know why you wouldn't maximize your clearance potential and go with the right offset, and even fine tune the wheel width. Yes, you can fit this size on the stock wheels, and you might have rubbing. You might even be able to have the right offset for your particular model and year setup, but if you are putting a wider tire on, you should consider a slightly wider wheel. The area the wheel is in is NOT where rubbing will occur, so you are not risking much by going wider to match your tire, and You can still put the stock tires back onto a slightly wider tire as well.. But by more closely matching tire width to wheel width, you will reduce sidewall bulge, which Can be an issue, especially when aired down, and especially offroading in areas where there are lots of sharp obstacles. Minimize it, and give your tire better support. It will run cooler with less stress, and more clearance. This was a very nice choice by this customer, and I like the way their rig looks. The wheel design is very close to mine, as is the added height, which on paper is only an additional 1/2" clearance (inch taller tire), but it reality it is closer to 3/4" taller, at least on my rig, because my sidewalls sag less than the stock Geolanders are designed to under load. I actually notice getting in, and driving, that I am taller than stock. The only difference I would have made, is that if I had gone with Method wheels I would have gone with the 17X8 with a 38MM offset. You have room to move closer into the center of that well, and more in line with the side of your car. But we are only talking about a ten millimeter difference. It might have reduced rubbing (or not) but it was more likely tire geometry. But it defintely would have given you a slimmer footprint on the trail. I appreciate the detail on how to mod the fenders if I ever needed to. I may go up a hair more in size when these wear out, although, honestly, they are doing the job just fine and I probably won't. I was shootin for 30's and I was just a half inch shy. I like how you can get that extra half an inch here and there without doing major mods. Good tuff! I Hope this helps. No I am NOT a professional. I just do a lot of research on my own stuff, and I'm good at reading specs and doing the math. 🙂 Databyter
Hey bud a read through your post, and have a 2023 Subaru Outback Wilderness that I am looking to do something similar to you. I don't mind the stock wheels as far as look as concerned..do you think I could throw the 245 Falken Trail ATs on my stock wheels without problems with rubbing? I like your ideas, and while I could replace the wheels as well, the tire is what I am most interested in....I just really, really, don't want any rubbing problems like I had on my previous Audi.
@@RaintapASMR The 245's are not just taller, they are wider. That is what that first number is. You are going from 225, to 245. Which is 20mm, or a hair more than 3/4 of an inch. You are ensuring that your wheel well is 3/4 of an inch less roomy from side to side, and on top of that you are tossing in a tire that is 1 inch taller. It is my unverified opinion, at least on paper, that the reason so many people have rubbing problems with 245's is because they have not used the proper offset to compensate for different wheel widths when they changed from the stock wheel. So this may be one advantage to keeping the stock, we assume it is somewhat centered. (The other reason people may get rubbing is because different brands might have different shapes and tolerances despite the official "size".) I think in this car it is a bit tighter on the outside of the well than the inside, so I would err that direction when wheel shopping (in other words I would go with less offset over more offset). But if you go with stock wheels, all I can say is, the pro's, they look good, they are strong, they are fairly light but probably middle of the field. Con's You could go wider and have better support for wider tires (but this width is supported), you could go with a different wheel that is lighter to compensate for the added weight of new tires for improved MPG (but if you go Falken Trail AT's no LT version you are already saving tons of weight over most 245's). It is probably well centered in the well, but also probably not IDEAL when we are talking millimeter clearances. I rolled the dice on a 40 mm offset and I have no rubbing. Stock is I believe around 48MM. Is this why I don't rub with 245's? I don't know. Probably not. I think it is a combination of the tire brand and construction, and the fact that they are designed for crossovers so they don't have huge sharp corners to eat fenders. They do have very aggressive corner and side tread tho, so no worries on that front. All said and done, I think the stock wheels would work with these tires, and if you do this, I want you to shoot me a message and let me know for my database. Seriously let me know how the Falkens work out for you. I went wider on the wheels because I knew I wanted lighter wheels anyway, so I had to change em anyway, and I figured a half inch wider was a good idea for tires that are 3/4 inch wider. I could have gone a full inch wider, but I wanted a wheel that could work well with stock sized tires in case I decided to revert back to stock size in the future, for like snow tires or something. I realize that I was fighting myself when searching for light wheels, and going bigger at the same time. But I accomplished it. I can't promise you no rubbing with the Falkens and stock wheels, I can only say that I have no rubbing, and the only difference is slightly wider wheels, and a slightly more inboard offset. One of which I don't think makes any difference, and the other which might, but probably doesn't. If I had to guess, I'd say on paper, it should work :) Databyter
Thanks for the response. I think I will give the go on the falkens on the stock wheels, and it doesn't work, then I might just go ahead with your suggested upgrades. I like the idea of the lighter wheels and better mpg, but if that's mainly in the tire itself, i'd be happy enough I think with the stock wheels and make other adjustments down the road. Appreciated@@Databyter
@@RaintapASMR A reminder, at this tire model and size, usually you can only get LT tires, but I recommend the NON LT version that is specifically made by Falken for cars exactly like ours. They are lighter, and still have the aggressive treads, ability to air down, and better than stock load ratings. They just don't have the ridiculously underneeded load ratings required of Light trucks which add a degree of thickness that is overkill for our application. There are two different versions of the 245 Trail AT's. Get the non LT version. It may say P or it may say nothing, but they are designed for crossovers like the Subaru and Rav4.
Thanks for video. That's why I stopped my experiments at 235/65/R17 size on my '21 Forester with Ironman ATS kit. Even this size required changing front mud flaps onto smaller ones.
In the 2025, Subaru needs to make this size tire standard. The stock tires currently look like donuts compared to these. And it wouldn't take much for them to increase the size of the spare well either! Come on Subaru!
The stock tires look like pizza cutters. It’s such a good looking vehicle til you get to the rear and looks like it’s on stilts, it’s a weak, unstable look. The 245’s make it look tough and stable. I like the stock wheels so I’m assuming installing a spacer with these tires would work as long as it doesn’t leave the axles and cv joints weak and vulnerable.
@@tylers.2069, oddly enough, “pizza cutter” tires actually provide superior traction in deep snow & mud because the front surface ares on “pizza cutter” tires are narrow, they cut through better than wider tires. Wider tires with wider front surface ares tend to float more in deep snow & mud since they’re pushing more snow & mud, which creates more “float” than “bite”. That’s why mountain rescue vehicles tend to run factory stock size or narrower tires instead of wider tires. The same is true when driving in the rain. It’s just “pizza cutters” don’t look as cool. Wider tires aired down do however, provide a smoother ride & better traction on dry rocky surfaces. Great for the desert!
@@donvwarren thanks for watching ! This customer actually uses this one around his farm and off road fishing adventures . He says it has done great with no issues or rub .
To each their own on the end outcome of their build. OEM wheels are a nice setup for sure . This customer wanted the matte black look over the factory gloss black wheels so he went with the methods . Thanks for watching !
Awesome look! I currently bought 18" black rhinos and i want to get a similar tire look on my 2017 Outback. Im currently looking at 235 60 18 AT tires. Yall think it would fit with minor plastic heating of the liners?
Yes as long as you have a high positive offset wheels then the 235/60 should work with the modifications. The 235/60 is slightly shorter and a touch more narrow than the 245/65/17 we installed. Good luck on your ride !
Results vary but 2-3mph off seems to be the case most of the time. We currently have no aftermarket companies that we deal with carrying a recalibration unit for the newer outback .
Not on this one , ride and drive was like factory so did not add them in. Some combinations may warrant them due to wheel and tire balance quality and vehicle reaction. Thanks for watching !
While a 2” lift would certainly help with clearance, the overall appearance and fit on this setup in our opinion is better with the stock height on the wilderness edition outback.
They are considered a “bead grip” wheel. This means that the bead on the wheel where the tire seats has beaded ridges causing it to grip the tire bead firmer. This allows you to air down the PSI further than normal without the worry of the tire de-beading while off-roading.
I think you are missing the point. Customers want to run larger tires without adding lift to these vehicles. This is a “how to” on how to gain the SAME amount of clearance on the new larger tires as the vehicle had from factory on the stock tires. This means you have the same travel, clearance, and room as you did from the dealership. We are 110% capable of lifting these vehicles for this tire combo , but that’s not what was requested. If you don’t like the scenario then don’t do it to yours and you won’t have anything to belly ache about.
I just bought a 23OBW with these same Toyos. All seems to fit without rubbing. My concern is using snow cables just in case on the iciest mornings. I'm also concerned how the tires might rub if I'm bouncing around and articulating on a choppy road. Any advice re this? Besides downsizing tires or lift spacers, what other methods to gain clearance?
@@kohort1 check out the modifications on the plastic inner fender well movement in this video. That will gain you some extra clearance and is a pretty easy and un evasive task with at home tools . Thanks for watching !
Finally! A tech putting in some actual info and opinions. I just bought one of these, and it seems like every video is just Dave from accounting explaining how "throaty" their new muffler delete is, and 3M taping some thin aluminum foglight brackets to their roof rack.
Thanks for the view and the feedback! We appreciate you .
I have this exact car. Same color too but I deleted the exterior brass highlights with matte black film (kept the badge).
I HAVE 245/65/17's on it, and Motegi MR139 7.5X17's with a 40 MM offset. Falken Trail AT's (the non LT version for this size range. They offer both)
I did a lot of research and math before I bought this combination, and it worked well on paper, so I rolled the dice and came out a winner. But let me share some details on what to look for, and why I did certain things. I learned a LOT about tires and wheels and offsets and a dozen other things when I started down the path to answer this same question.
Why a different offset for instance. Well, you want to stay centered in the wheel well. I was running on the assumption that the stock tire was more or less centered, and used this for a baseline. Then I factored in the offset of the stock wheel. I then added the larger width of the new tire I knew I wanted to this equation, and then found a range of offsets that would be optimal to keep ballparked in the center of the wheelwell space. I say a range, because when you go to shop wheels, you will find limited options, usually dependant on sizes of the wheel, intended purposes, etc.
My MR139 was in my optimal range at 40 (and I am going on memory here for both the offset and the model number so hopefully I remembered correctly), and was also a lightweight wheel. Why did I go with 7.5X17 instead of the stock 7X17? Well, again I am putting a wider tire on it, and I also plan to air down, so I did not want my sidewalls bubbling out so much when aired down, or even when aired up for that matter. It is better support, and less exposure for sharp rocks, while still remaining within the width that works well geometrically in that wheelwell space.. Just because a tire will fit onto a wheel, does not mean it is a good choice, especially when going oversized with a specific purposed tire, like an AT in a relatively small well.
I wanted to avoid the downfalls of a super heavy wheel tire combo as I did this upgrade, and I was willing to spend a bit more, to get a lighter wheel that was still built with Rally DNA and strength. So I got a lighter than stock wheel to offset the weight of a larger tire.
And then, when shopping tires, I found the Falken Trail AT tires, which have a Crossover Hybrid option specifically designed for cars like the Subaru's, and Rav4's and the like. Most of the time in this size range (245's) you are limited to truck tire spec'd tires. But we don't have trucks, we have crossover SUV's and Cars. So what Falken did was offer a P version, a non LT version, that is not 15 lbs heavier per tire. It's more like 7 lbs. But it still has superior load rating (Just not the cargo rating of a Truck) over stock, and so even a fully trek modded Subaru is going to benefit from the load rating, but not pay for the extra weight of load rating you don't need. The construction is still AT DNA, and that means stiffer sidewalls for airing down, and aggressive treads that are the same as the LT version. So I saved about 4 lbs on each wheel, and about 7 lbs. on each tire.
My wilderness already has a lower final gear, and I didn't add that much weight to my corners, so in some situations (HWY) my MPG is actually better than it was before, or at least the same because my effective final gear with larger circumference tires, has been raised more towards the economy end from the torquey end. But this car has still got plenty of torque with the larger tires.
Now for conflicts. I have a finger width (I have slim fingers) clearance even at my narrowest clearance angle on turning, which ironically is NOT full crank, but a bit less, where the corner edge of the wheel is aimed at a part of the wheelwell front area that is starting to curve inwards towards the center. Now I measured this on the ground, but with the Wilderness you only get MORE clearance going into the round wheelwell with your round tire, assuming correct offsets, so if anything I would have MORE clearance being on top of a boulder on that front wheel and more compression. And downwards is not a problem either, at least that I have ever experienced. I have had ZERO rubbing. Im not constantly traversing rock gardens, but I have been on a few very rutted trails, over rocks and curbs while turning etc, and there is no rubbing with this combination on my 22 Wildebeast.
Now lets discuss the spare tire compartment. NO it will not fit fully aired up with the foam tool caddy. But I DO carry my full sized spare in my spare tire compartment. How?
I removed the foam tool caddy number one (and there is still TONS of room for tools and bottle jacks and tow ropes etc, just not in THAT shaped carrier.
Number 2, you DO need to air down a LOT. Probably to about 5 pounds or less. Just enough to keep a bead. And your car WILL be supported on a few pounds and you SHOULD carry a pump if you are doing this, to top it off.
Number 3, you cannot place the tire FLAT, and you cannot screw it down. But you don't need to. It's hard enough to get it in. It sure as hell isn't going to fall out or wiggle. Mine is at an angle with plenty of room around it, under it, and over it inside the wheel. I carry a lot of stuff in there and purposely put some ropes and towels over it to help support the bottom of the hatch door, which is the bottom of your cargo compartment. The tool caddy served this purpose of additional support before. Not that the hatch is flimsy or anything but I wouldnt want to be stacking anvils or batteries on it, and it's peace of mind to have some support under it so it won't have room to flex downwards. The hatch fully and easily shuts, and it is a very clean solution that keeps crap off of your back hatch, roof rack, or stowed in the car or trailer.
I don't know if ALL 245/65's fit in the Wilderness, and I can't speak to other outbacks either, but I assume they have similar wheel wells even tho they don't have our strut based lift. I do not know if other tires from other brands will work here, like the popular KO2 which I nixed for weight. But I DO know that most of the people who post about rubbing and conflicts, and try to solve this with lifts, have other issues, like the wrong wheel width that bubbles out the sidewall, or the wrong offset, that takes the wheel from being lined up in the very center of the wheel well. I also know that the Falken Trail AT non LT version was specifically engineered for crossovers that generally have smaller wheel wells, and this was engineered into the geometry of the tire. You still get the size and agressive tread, but the parts that would normally be rubbing on fenders are tucked in just a wee bit better on the tire edge.
If you want to go largest, you don't want to do it on stock wheels, although I have seen SOME specific tire combinations be bragged about with stock wheels in this size range.. All tires have slightly different geometries so it will vary.
If you are going to use aftermarket wheels and go to this size, I don't know why you wouldn't maximize your clearance potential and go with the right offset, and even fine tune the wheel width. Yes, you can fit this size on the stock wheels, and you might have rubbing. You might even be able to have the right offset for your particular model and year setup, but if you are putting a wider tire on, you should consider a slightly wider wheel. The area the wheel is in is NOT where rubbing will occur, so you are not risking much by going wider to match your tire, and You can still put the stock tires back onto a slightly wider tire as well.. But by more closely matching tire width to wheel width, you will reduce sidewall bulge, which Can be an issue, especially when aired down, and especially offroading in areas where there are lots of sharp obstacles. Minimize it, and give your tire better support. It will run cooler with less stress, and more clearance.
This was a very nice choice by this customer, and I like the way their rig looks. The wheel design is very close to mine, as is the added height, which on paper is only an additional 1/2" clearance (inch taller tire), but it reality it is closer to 3/4" taller, at least on my rig, because my sidewalls sag less than the stock Geolanders are designed to under load. I actually notice getting in, and driving, that I am taller than stock. The only difference I would have made, is that if I had gone with Method wheels I would have gone with the 17X8 with a 38MM offset. You have room to move closer into the center of that well, and more in line with the side of your car. But we are only talking about a ten millimeter difference. It might have reduced rubbing (or not) but it was more likely tire geometry. But it defintely would have given you a slimmer footprint on the trail.
I appreciate the detail on how to mod the fenders if I ever needed to. I may go up a hair more in size when these wear out, although, honestly, they are doing the job just fine and I probably won't. I was shootin for 30's and I was just a half inch shy. I like how you can get that extra half an inch here and there without doing major mods. Good tuff!
I Hope this helps. No I am NOT a professional. I just do a lot of research on my own stuff, and I'm good at reading specs and doing the math. 🙂
Databyter
Hey bud a read through your post, and have a 2023 Subaru Outback Wilderness that I am looking to do something similar to you. I don't mind the stock wheels as far as look as concerned..do you think I could throw the 245 Falken Trail ATs on my stock wheels without problems with rubbing? I like your ideas, and while I could replace the wheels as well, the tire is what I am most interested in....I just really, really, don't want any rubbing problems like I had on my previous Audi.
@@RaintapASMR The 245's are not just taller, they are wider. That is what that first number is. You are going from 225, to 245. Which is 20mm, or a hair more than 3/4 of an inch. You are ensuring that your wheel well is 3/4 of an inch less roomy from side to side, and on top of that you are tossing in a tire that is 1 inch taller.
It is my unverified opinion, at least on paper, that the reason so many people have rubbing problems with 245's is because they have not used the proper offset to compensate for different wheel widths when they changed from the stock wheel. So this may be one advantage to keeping the stock, we assume it is somewhat centered. (The other reason people may get rubbing is because different brands might have different shapes and tolerances despite the official "size".)
I think in this car it is a bit tighter on the outside of the well than the inside, so I would err that direction when wheel shopping (in other words I would go with less offset over more offset).
But if you go with stock wheels, all I can say is, the pro's, they look good, they are strong, they are fairly light but probably middle of the field.
Con's You could go wider and have better support for wider tires (but this width is supported), you could go with a different wheel that is lighter to compensate for the added weight of new tires for improved MPG (but if you go Falken Trail AT's no LT version you are already saving tons of weight over most 245's). It is probably well centered in the well, but also probably not IDEAL when we are talking millimeter clearances.
I rolled the dice on a 40 mm offset and I have no rubbing. Stock is I believe around 48MM. Is this why I don't rub with 245's? I don't know. Probably not. I think it is a combination of the tire brand and construction, and the fact that they are designed for crossovers so they don't have huge sharp corners to eat fenders. They do have very aggressive corner and side tread tho, so no worries on that front.
All said and done, I think the stock wheels would work with these tires, and if you do this, I want you to shoot me a message and let me know for my database. Seriously let me know how the Falkens work out for you. I went wider on the wheels because I knew I wanted lighter wheels anyway, so I had to change em anyway, and I figured a half inch wider was a good idea for tires that are 3/4 inch wider. I could have gone a full inch wider, but I wanted a wheel that could work well with stock sized tires in case I decided to revert back to stock size in the future, for like snow tires or something. I realize that I was fighting myself when searching for light wheels, and going bigger at the same time. But I accomplished it.
I can't promise you no rubbing with the Falkens and stock wheels, I can only say that I have no rubbing, and the only difference is slightly wider wheels, and a slightly more inboard offset. One of which I don't think makes any difference, and the other which might, but probably doesn't. If I had to guess, I'd say on paper, it should work :) Databyter
Thanks for the response. I think I will give the go on the falkens on the stock wheels, and it doesn't work, then I might just go ahead with your suggested upgrades. I like the idea of the lighter wheels and better mpg, but if that's mainly in the tire itself, i'd be happy enough I think with the stock wheels and make other adjustments down the road. Appreciated@@Databyter
@@RaintapASMR A reminder, at this tire model and size, usually you can only get LT tires, but I recommend the NON LT version that is specifically made by Falken for cars exactly like ours. They are lighter, and still have the aggressive treads, ability to air down, and better than stock load ratings. They just don't have the ridiculously underneeded load ratings required of Light trucks which add a degree of thickness that is overkill for our application. There are two different versions of the 245 Trail AT's. Get the non LT version. It may say P or it may say nothing, but they are designed for crossovers like the Subaru and Rav4.
Do you have pictures?
Very practical and easy mods to do this gives me confidence that it's easy to mod those plastic fenders if I need to!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for video. That's why I stopped my experiments at 235/65/R17 size on my '21 Forester with Ironman ATS kit. Even this size required changing front mud flaps onto smaller ones.
Thanks for watching ! @HowardLovekraft
Can I have the old ones for my Outback?
Wow….awesome job. You guys definitely do great work. Very informative video. Thank you for sharing.
In the 2025, Subaru needs to make this size tire standard. The stock tires currently look like donuts compared to these. And it wouldn't take much for them to increase the size of the spare well either! Come on Subaru!
The stock tires look like pizza cutters. It’s such a good looking vehicle til you get to the rear and looks like it’s on stilts, it’s a weak, unstable look. The 245’s make it look tough and stable. I like the stock wheels so I’m assuming installing a spacer with these tires would work as long as it doesn’t leave the axles and cv joints weak and vulnerable.
@@tylers.2069, oddly enough, “pizza cutter” tires actually provide superior traction in deep snow & mud because the front surface ares on “pizza cutter” tires are narrow, they cut through better than wider tires. Wider tires with wider front surface ares tend to float more in deep snow & mud since they’re pushing more snow & mud, which creates more “float” than “bite”. That’s why mountain rescue vehicles tend to run factory stock size or narrower tires instead of wider tires. The same is true when driving in the rain. It’s just “pizza cutters” don’t look as cool.
Wider tires aired down do however, provide a smoother ride & better traction on dry rocky surfaces. Great for the desert!
you'll are very good at what you do. excellent work on the move up to 245's. good details in the vid as well
Thanks for your feedback! We appreciate you watching.
does the 245/65/17 fit on the oem wilderness rims? i kinda like the way it looks and just want a beefier tire
You guys really know your stuff. Very impressed with your problem solving acumen.
We appreciate you! Thanks for watching and commenting on the video .
Thank you so much for making this video! Upgrading the wheels and tires on my ‘24 OBW very soon and this eased my mind!
Thank you for watching ! We are glad this was helpful for you on your build . Share it around so everyone else can benefit as well. Thanks! -DOR
That's well and fine, but what about when the suspension starts compressing. I believe it will probably still rub.
@@donvwarren thanks for watching ! This customer actually uses this one around his farm and off road fishing adventures . He says it has done great with no issues or rub .
If they actually send it offroad, or articulate the suspension they will hit somewhere. For trips to Costco, it's fine.
Lmao. Also it will hydroplane more and less traction on ice and snow.
Interesting. Thank you for confirming fitment in rear for spare. I’m running Wildpeak AT3W’s in same size on stock wheels on ‘19 premium
Glad this was helpful for you. Sounds like a nice ride ! -DOR
I wish I had stayed with the factor wheels.
To each their own on the end outcome of their build. OEM wheels are a nice setup for sure . This customer wanted the matte black look over the factory gloss black wheels so he went with the methods . Thanks for watching !
In my opinion, to make this vehicle absolute, offer the manual that’s in the wrx. All wilderness trims need the manual option
Would this size tire fit on a stock suspension Onyx ?
Do you know if you can put that tire on a non wilderness 2018 outback?
Awesome look! I currently bought 18" black rhinos and i want to get a similar tire look on my 2017 Outback. Im currently looking at 235 60 18 AT tires. Yall think it would fit with minor plastic heating of the liners?
Yes as long as you have a high positive offset wheels then the 235/60 should work with the modifications. The 235/60 is slightly shorter and a touch more narrow than the 245/65/17 we installed. Good luck on your ride !
That looks and came out awesome. Nice job.
We appreciate it, Thanks for watching!
Would this work on a 2014 outback as well
Nice. How do the new tire affect the speedo? If so, is there a fix?
Each vehicle is a little different , this one was about 2mph off with this setup so nothing major .
is this 245/65/17 a 30 or 31 inch tire?
@@timflaherty2731 this one measured in right at 30” s
These were smart solutions. I guess not your first rodeo,... I mean Subaru.
How much is that going to mess up the odometer and speedometer? Can you reprogram the vehicle like you can a jeep?
Results vary but 2-3mph off seems to be the case most of the time. We currently have no aftermarket companies that we deal with carrying a recalibration unit for the newer outback .
sick
No hubcentric rings for the 56.1 hub bore?
Not on this one , ride and drive was like factory so did not add them in. Some combinations may warrant them due to wheel and tire balance quality and vehicle reaction. Thanks for watching !
What does that do to the speedometer? Is it off a little?
Small fluctuation thats different vehicle to vehicle, but typically 2-3 mph off from factory.
Next I want to see a video of all the road junk that slings up the doors.
Very minimal the factory mud flap is still further out than the tire so that keeps the spray down .
@davis_off_road6524 Just don't get rolling befor the tire shiny dries ehh.
We simply use our Subie’s to get us to and from our destinations.
Sometimes my destination is at the top of a really fucked up trail.
How fast it goes on the road and do you think an 2nch lift would be great with that set up?
While a 2” lift would certainly help with clearance, the overall appearance and fit on this setup in our opinion is better with the stock height on the wilderness edition outback.
did you say those are beaded?
They are considered a “bead grip” wheel. This means that the bead on the wheel where the tire seats has beaded ridges causing it to grip the tire bead firmer. This allows you to air down the PSI further than normal without the worry of the tire de-beading while off-roading.
Subaru Outback has problem with oil pan leaking
totally not worth it
Thanks for watching
bad idea, clearance is needed - mud, snow, road hazards like debris even rain not to mention wheel travel
This video is for those looking to add tire size to their outback and how to make the clearance you are speaking of .
@@davis_off_road6524 then why the heat? why?
yes it needs a lift for those over sized tires
might show it done right :o
I think you are missing the point. Customers want to run larger tires without adding lift to these vehicles. This is a “how to” on how to gain the SAME amount of clearance on the new larger tires as the vehicle had from factory on the stock tires. This means you have the same travel, clearance, and room as you did from the dealership. We are 110% capable of lifting these vehicles for this tire combo , but that’s not what was requested. If you don’t like the scenario then don’t do it to yours and you won’t have anything to belly ache about.
@@davis_off_road6524 LOL this is correct.
why not just go straight up 6" lift and put some 35's in there, stop foolin around.
You expect that 2.5 hamster to turn 35s?
@@WontSeeReplies the whole thing is just ridiculous. that's my point.
@@WontSeeReplies 2.4 Turbo. 277 ft lbs of tq.
@@thecount1001 adding regular light AT tires isn't ridiculous. Go jerk off on your 4x4 and let people have their fun.
I just bought a 23OBW with these same Toyos. All seems to fit without rubbing. My concern is using snow cables just in case on the iciest mornings. I'm also concerned how the tires might rub if I'm bouncing around and articulating on a choppy road. Any advice re this? Besides downsizing tires or lift spacers, what other methods to gain clearance?
@@kohort1 check out the modifications on the plastic inner fender well movement in this video. That will gain you some extra clearance and is a pretty easy and un evasive task with at home tools . Thanks for watching !