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Brilliant video

The placement at 3.50 is awesome if you have another piece in opposition to it. I will generally put two nuts in opposition in a horizontal crack if I can.

Great observations and advice. Cracks and slabs are common in trad climbing. We must practise on those features outside. Best wishes!

Okay so the rope has to be longer than the climb and the anchor otherwise you crash?

Awesome video. Wondering if this is ok to do off a 3 piece gear anchor?

hiw do you clean if it’s on something overhung and you can’t reach the quickdraws?

Me watching rock climbing outdoors: Nah, I think I'll pass 😅 Me being asked out for caving (speleology, spelunking, potholing, etc): Hell yeah 🤩💪

The Edd Sorenson of rock climbing!

This is great! I have been climbing trad with instructors only for the last year and am finally getting to a point where I can go out on my own with my partner, but I am watching instructional videos to make sure I remember everything. This has been the best video I've found for this topic; simple to understand, great live demo, and I appreciate you showing the systems up close.

Nice Video! My friend was trying it explain it, but it didn't make sense. Maybe it was because most of our routes are relatively vertical. It was hard to understand; when on a vertical wall you might not know where your direction is going to be going after the bolt. Is there a general rule to how vertical a route should be where direction of gates doesn't matter(Angle from the quickdraw)?

This is not a self rescue video, this is self rescue ART. Amazing!

Thank you. Very nice video. Is that Joshua Tree Nation Park?

these videos are fantastic

Thanks a ton....very very useful

I'm always seeing these Joshua Tree posts and thinking how stiff the routes look.

I got a nut stuck really bad once didnt have a nut tool but a screwdriver took 20 mins never again 😭

Ah yes. Every limestone climbers wet dream. An honest to god real life parallel crack. 🤣

Rather than adjusting your anchor for more material to make the instructor tether, it is suggested in SPI training to utilize a kliemheist on the legs of your V to protect while setting up the master point over the edge. Whatcha think, more efficient, more risk???

I love J -Tree

Thanks for the video, very useful

Oh god. It's all crimpy fingertip holds. My hands and feet were sweaty the whole video haha

thank you very much. Awesome video!

One of the best gear placement videos I've seen. I really like how you explain the thinking on each gear placement!

Free gear! th-cam.com/video/SvVPfiUM4DA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oD8NP7MyG2b-Irxw&t=250

Thank you again for the video, these are very helpful tips. I have been occasionally climbing for last two years, and since then my progress was not that much significant. I was climbing mostly in a gym in a slightly overhang terrain. I did not fully realize how much I can trust a smear, and also did not realize how much I should try to push with my feets. I knew it, but never really did that. This year I have been climbing with friends on some sandstone slabs and I really like it. There I realized that you really have to learn to trust your feet. So a reminder for me and for beginners like me, because there is never enough of this: really focus on efficiently using your feet, learn how to put most of your weight on them, play with your balance, try to shift your center of gravity above your feet you stand on. Learn with a experience that you can trust your feet even on a small sloopy holds or slabs. Try to focus on pushing with your feets, try to use the smallest amount of hand pull as possible. I think that slabs are great for this - just because there are only small or no good handholds. I found that easier routes, slabs and traverses comfortably enough bellow your limit are fine to train efficient footwork and balance. Let the feet to do the job of pushing and ascending! ;-)

Thank you, I just have to say again that your videos are best!

Excellent video - basically a masterclass but on rock inside of in a classroom. Your videos and teaching are great! Climbing and teaching at the same time 👍 👍

I don't get the helmet at Josh. Bur the headlamp is just kooky .

Why do you gym guys wear helmets face climb no falling rocks at Josh. On El Cap I wear one still hate it.

Clearly explained and demonstrated. 👍

Very nice video, tutorial. Thank you !

Hexes and tricams ARE nuts. The original "nuts " were hexagonal machine nuts with a rope sling through the hole.

This guy was born to teach - excellent videos

Really well done!

Many thanks, this has been tremendously insightful :))))

I don't think I've ever heard somebody recommend stomping on your rope before can't say I agree

Very clear explanation. Thanks!

whats the diameter of your cordellette?

6mm x 9kN edelrid PES cord should be enough?

My buddy and I tried Generator Crack here in Yosemite last night... we needed you 😂

What chimney is that?

Did this one with Kelly Vought (The Troll) way back in 78/79. Somebody had left some of their rack at the base ledge - 4 of the then just out Wild Country Friends (!!!!). We divided the find, doubly the number of the precious Friends on our racks. We hung out there for a bit, but nobody came looking, probably didn't know until the next climbing trip. I remember the climb being pretty good but not as hair raising as I expected.

Great stuff, thanks for the calm explanation. I'm from the Netherlands, and if I go outdoorclimbing is almost always in the Ardennes (Belgium). There's little to no trad (which I know of), most of the sportroutes are well bolted. Sometimes we practice gear placement on a bolted route, but it'll never be the same I guess. We're planning to go tradclimbing in Scotland later this year, so I'll check more of your vids. Thanks again

Triact lock biners should also be checked for if it is locked. Springs can get worn out or dirt can get caught up in it, not making it fully close. Triact locks should not be used as a way of that you don't have to think about it locking in comparison to the twist lock.

What if the anchor rope gets to moving and the edge of the cliff saws it

This is such great prep for my multipitch course. My instructors don't necessarily agree with everything, but it's a nice starting point at least

Very helpful video, thank you!

Wish I found this channel when I was learning. Still great for instructing

Is it necessary or ideal to add a tarp or some kind of shield to prevent the cordelette from rubbing and being damaged by the edge of the cliff? If so is a tarp a good choice, or something else recommended? Thanks.

SIMPLE and USEFUL ! superb ! 🤗