Trad. Cordelette Anchor with Super 8
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Trad. Cordelette Anchor with Super 8
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Really handy trick, thanks for your videos. In this particular case I would also extend the yellow cam (left piece) because the angle at the masterpoint is way more than 45° maybe 80ish. What do you think?
Thanks! The maximum accepted angle between the two outer legs of an anchor is usually 90°, but minimizing the angle is better. Here is a video on that topic: th-cam.com/video/CJ57PT8-pm0/w-d-xo.html
Gifted teacher - very clear, concise instruction. Thank you for this channel and vids.
You’re welcome!
whats the diameter of your cordellette?
7mm
Nice one! very simple way of explaining bunny ears.
Just a question about the super eight.....is it safe (redundant) to rappel with the bunny ears on a 2anchor system with a single rope (no cordelette or sling)? Thanks
Please see Roddy's reply:
Sure! This is exactly the set-up you normally see when ropes are fixed for rappels, as on the East Ledges Descent from El Cap for example.
@@videoracles ok thanks..... I’ll try it next time....
What size is the cordalette?
The cordelette in this video is 7mm x 20 ft. Here is more info about cordelettes: th-cam.com/video/9MLXY_UbjRQ/w-d-xo.html
It is not called a super 8. It is respectfully called a Double Figure 8
Roddy's reply:
Hi AfghanDan,
LOL I stand corrected!
Best,
Roddy
Very good technique. The bowline on a bight has the extra advantage of independent loops.
Another option is to connect the two pieces on the right with a sling, make a sliding X, attach a carabiner, then clip the cordelette to the carabiner on the sliding X or add two load-limiting knots and making a quad anchor. It requires another carabiner and a sling, but the equalization of those two pieces is better. This would be the most useful if the most bomber pieces are the two on the right. It always takes me a few adjustments to get the bunny ears equalized, and even after all that, I notice that one piece carries more of the load once I belay my partner.
True about the bunny ears not equalizing properly, but a magic X is a big no-no in trad.
Roddy's reply:
Hi Michael,
Yes, this works! Thanks for sharing!
Miguel, I don't agree about the magic X being a 'no-no'. It's a fine way to equalize two of the pieces in a three-piece anchor. It does add some potential extension if one piece fails, but with a 24" runner it wouldn't be very much extension.
Best,
Roddy