I've seen the extra E in serene be used for efficient. Meaning no unnecessary gear or extra equipment when building the anchor. Adding more points means more places for things to fail.
excellent videos. With regards to anchors, I was reading the book from John Long where lots of focus in on mutlidirectional anchors. He often refers to placing oppsitional gears to prevent the anchor to fail when a belayer belays a leader on multipitch. Would be great a video on this topic especially on how to link the oppositional gear to the upper gears/masterpoint. thanks!
Here is Roddy's reply: Great question! A cordelette is a convenience, not a necessity. On long routes in the mountains when I am swapping leads with my partner and carrying as little weight as possible, I do not bring a cordelette. In that case, I build my anchors with a double-length sling, and use the climbing rope as needed. When I’m guiding, I don’t want to incorporate the climbing rope since I’m leading consecutive pitches. And generally, when weight is not a concern, a cordelette has several advantages over a sling: I carry a 22-foot cord, so it’s longer than a double- or even a triple-length sling making it easier to build a three-piece anchor without any additional material. Cord is generally more abrasion-resistant. It also works better for friction hitches, which can help with rope ascension or haul systems. You can untie the knots that make your cordelette into a loop, and use the full length of the cord for anchor-building or rescue applications (haul systems, load transfers, etc)-not an option with a sewn sling.
I've seen the extra E in serene be used for efficient. Meaning no unnecessary gear or extra equipment when building the anchor. Adding more points means more places for things to fail.
excellent videos. With regards to anchors, I was reading the book from John Long where lots of focus in on mutlidirectional anchors. He often refers to placing oppsitional gears to prevent the anchor to fail when a belayer belays a leader on multipitch. Would be great a video on this topic especially on how to link the oppositional gear to the upper gears/masterpoint. thanks!
another high quality vid thanks! Can you go more into why you prefer cordelete over slings?
Here is Roddy's reply:
Great question! A cordelette is a convenience, not a necessity. On long routes in the mountains when I am swapping leads with my partner and carrying as little weight as possible, I do not bring a cordelette. In that case, I build my anchors with a double-length sling, and use the climbing rope as needed. When I’m guiding, I don’t want to incorporate the climbing rope since I’m leading consecutive pitches. And generally, when weight is not a concern, a cordelette has several advantages over a sling: I carry a 22-foot cord, so it’s longer than a double- or even a triple-length sling making it easier to build a three-piece anchor without any additional material. Cord is generally more abrasion-resistant. It also works better for friction hitches, which can help with rope ascension or haul systems. You can untie the knots that make your cordelette into a loop, and use the full length of the cord for anchor-building or rescue applications (haul systems, load transfers, etc)-not an option with a sewn sling.