Awesome videos Roddy! Can you do videos of self rescue or situations where people might get stuck on a pitch or multipitch? I'd love to see what you have to talk about for those.
Thank you! We made a few self-rescue videos already, and more are planned! Lowering with a Direct Belay: th-cam.com/video/V12J07TZZ2w/w-d-xo.html Escaping a Direct Belay: rockclimb.videoracles.com/videos/rescue/escaping-a-direct-belay/ 3 to 1 and 6 to 1 Haul: rockclimb.videoracles.com/videos/rescue/3-to-1-and-6-to-1-haul/ Belaying with a Munter Hitch: rockclimb.videoracles.com/videos/lead-follow/belaying-with-a-munter-hitch/
Thank you! As we say in the description of the videos, we believe that in-person learning should be the primary way of learning rock climbing as it is the safest. But we hope our videos are helpful!
Hi, I've been taking a lot of first timers out and doing a lot of top roping, you mentioned that you use those three steel oval carabiners to reduce wear on your aluminum climbing biners. I'm in Japan and pretty much the only thing that lasts out here is stainless, are they stainless and where did you get them? I love your videos. Great work and keep it up!
Thank you! Those are Climb Tech Steel Oval Non-Locking Carabiner and according to the website they are clear zinc-plated steel with steel gate. climbtech.com/products/steel-oval-non-locking-carabiner/ You can find more options here: weighmyrack.com/carabiner?f[]=field_weight:%5B115%20TO%20250%5D Anything above 115g is usually steel.
Is it necessary or ideal to add a tarp or some kind of shield to prevent the cordelette from rubbing and being damaged by the edge of the cliff? If so is a tarp a good choice, or something else recommended? Thanks.
Why bother twisting the cordelette into a magic X when you make a quad? It doesn’t seem to matter. Never mind, you’re using it as an alternative to clipping 3 of the strands.
Nice video, I always use to make one knot 🪢 in the middle and grab the two external loop and equalize, I found out less stressing point if one point fail
Could you also do a standard masterpoint. I'm new so bear w/ me. ut cant you just do a masterpoint where there is only one overhand or fig 8 and the biner is clipped in under it.
Awesome videos Roddy! Can you do videos of self rescue or situations where people might get stuck on a pitch or multipitch? I'd love to see what you have to talk about for those.
Thank you! We made a few self-rescue videos already, and more are planned!
Lowering with a Direct Belay: th-cam.com/video/V12J07TZZ2w/w-d-xo.html
Escaping a Direct Belay: rockclimb.videoracles.com/videos/rescue/escaping-a-direct-belay/
3 to 1 and 6 to 1 Haul: rockclimb.videoracles.com/videos/rescue/3-to-1-and-6-to-1-haul/
Belaying with a Munter Hitch: rockclimb.videoracles.com/videos/lead-follow/belaying-with-a-munter-hitch/
I use this one. Quick and easy in the right circumstances. Kind of like a baby Quad.
These videos are the best. Thank you for the knowledge.
Wow, such great quality videos! The audio is awesome and everything is to the point. Thanks so much!
You're very welcome!
Thank you for saving lives
Thank you! As we say in the description of the videos, we believe that in-person learning should be the primary way of learning rock climbing as it is the safest. But we hope our videos are helpful!
Love how you just made a quad out of the cordelette, but you call it a sliding x with limiting knots.
Hi, I've been taking a lot of first timers out and doing a lot of top roping, you mentioned that you use those three steel oval carabiners to reduce wear on your aluminum climbing biners. I'm in Japan and pretty much the only thing that lasts out here is stainless, are they stainless and where did you get them? I love your videos. Great work and keep it up!
Thank you! Those are Climb Tech Steel Oval Non-Locking Carabiner and according to the website they are clear zinc-plated steel with steel gate.
climbtech.com/products/steel-oval-non-locking-carabiner/
You can find more options here: weighmyrack.com/carabiner?f[]=field_weight:%5B115%20TO%20250%5D
Anything above 115g is usually steel.
Is it necessary or ideal to add a tarp or some kind of shield to prevent the cordelette from rubbing and being damaged by the edge of the cliff? If so is a tarp a good choice, or something else recommended? Thanks.
Great video!
Why bother twisting the cordelette into a magic X when you make a quad? It doesn’t seem to matter.
Never mind, you’re using it as an alternative to clipping 3 of the strands.
don't forget the magic X at 1:44 or that anchor loses redundancy? it's shown but not mentioned if someone is to miss that step..
Whether you have limiting knots or not, if you don't do the "Magic X" you have a "Death V" which is not safe as explained at 0:13!
Can I ask why you'd use 3 snap gates? I've never seen that before, sure 2 opposing snap gates i know is the text book but why 3?
Here is why: th-cam.com/video/-GB8P_Ria2c/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Q-Rv2iR9e_84KgCt&t=66
Nice video, I always use to make one knot 🪢 in the middle and grab the two external loop and equalize, I found out less stressing point if one point fail
Could you also do a standard masterpoint. I'm new so bear w/ me. ut cant you just do a masterpoint where there is only one overhand or fig 8 and the biner is clipped in under it.
You could, but this video is specifically “self-equalizing anchor”. If you have long enough material, self-equalizing is usually the better choice.