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Sorry, I don't use Spektrum. My go to shop when I'm buying receiver for my Futaba and Noble is: www.minircplanet.com/receivers?page=2 You can also send them an email. Just provide the model of your radio and they can help look up the compatible RX for your TX.

Thanks! Sure thing, maybe this weekend.

@@Indoboy269 Oh yeah, that’s fine for sure! 👍

Marka 15 Radials - Rear | Wheels - 20x11mm PN KS1038 - Front | Wheels - 19x8.5mm

@tjaymacRC ok the go 2 setup

@@jamesturner9858 I lost the chatter from the front wheels whenever I would enter and exit the corners with the hard arms.

What do you mean tag you? Yes, you can watch it here: th-cam.com/video/RQ31vUxeOQY/w-d-xo.html

@ TY so much !!

@ haha 😆 sorry ur the best I watched your video and was able to pull it off

@@loopie007 Thanks man!

@@Johnbscv Rocket MINI 1410 2500KV

By the way, I really appreciate the meticulous testing and sharing of your findings. I always look forward to these new uploads.

@@Johnbscv Glad to hear, appreciate it! Thanks for letting me know.

@@tjaymacRCThanks! I figured it might’ve been, wasn’t sure since there’s was a mention of 5600kv

Always love how detailed you are with setup. What you change and why you change it.

Hi, Not atm but I'll try it eventually. Thanks! Appreciate your feedback and glad you're enjoying the videos!

@@EMDRONES Hey, Happy New Year! No worries. This is what I’m running in my MRX and all of my Lipo cars. Use coupon code: TJMAC7 to get discount: www.hobby-addicts.com/products/gnb-350mah-lihv-2s-70c-lipo-battery As for the Reflex Racing batteries. Here are their dimensions: 340mah 44.5x19.7x13mm 400mah 44.5x24x12.5mm

@ sick!! I just ordered now Thank you waiting for RX and lipos and should be ready

All depends on the drivers preference. They don't drive the same but both are good cars.

@@EMDRONES Happy New Year! I’m running the PN Racing body posts. The bumper is Reflex Racing.

Thank you 👍

Thanks. Tjay and Julien has helped me get back up to speed after a 7 month layoff from racing. It's good to be back again.

@@rogerserafin For sure Rog!! 🤙

For me, yes.

@@tjaymacRC I appreciate it! I have been working my way up to 2500 Lipo from box stock and am looking to pick up a kit here in the next couple of months. Your videos have been very helpful to me. I ran 10th scale for a long time and it's been a big change. Thanks!

@@rogerserafin Watch the 2500 & 3500 A3 from recent race Rog. My R1’s were on rails! 👌 You’re going to love it!

@@rogerserafin I remember that Roger! Seems like yesterday. That was already a year ago, wow! See you soon!

@@johnsorensen5758 kyoshoamerica.com/media/wysiwyg/kyosho/Kyosho-8500KV-Recall-5-8-24.pdf

Thank you. I plan to add a some MR04 content for 2025. I did have the steering lock up experience but once I replaced the #4 servo to brass and replaced whatever else looks worn, which were: #1, #2 and broken tooth #4 gears. I haven't had that lock up issue. Remember to tuck the front wheels under the body. If you turn the wheels and the front of the wheel is still sticking out of the body, go lower offset. I use 1.5mm offset in the front and I use the R8 body. Its been good.

I never really had the chance to try that front damper for the MR03 but that would be something I'd like to try in the MR04 whenever they release that.

I can't say. I didn't run the R.1 in Mod yet but both of these cars are better than most cars in the market. It all depends on what the driver would prefer.

@@jaimechon1 Sold it a while back.

I'm actually using this adaptor as well: www.minircplanet.com/product-page/front-bumber-mount-base-for-mr03-glr-gla-rt075 Here's the PN but this is the V2. Mine is the V1. supergdrift.com/products/mini-z-v2-alum-interchangeable-front-body-mount-base-pn-racing-bm001a-bm001b-bm001k?variant=44452325097711 You will need to modify the side body clips on any body for the R1.

@@tjaymacRC Thanks TJ, I just realized that I could also just use the provided whilte plastic front insert instead of the bumper for the time being....

​@@michaelhavlena923 Oh yes, that's right. You can run that for now.

@@1dirtovalracer Been a while since I did this comparison but I don’t remember saying about the tension of the wheel spring. I actually like the spring tension in the Futaba which is why I am also running Futaba spring in my NB4. Thanks though.

Appreciate that Danny, thank you!

@@denrracing Appreciate that, thank you!

Yes. I'm running the GL-SD-ESC-010T. Some ESC cogs without the sensor wire installed, not the one I have.

Good to know! Thank you

@@robertcrow1550 It’s a SBRC JX body. I mentioned it in this video: th-cam.com/video/izH6pCH83E0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3gIv16_QbASNsW_D

I use GL-SD-ESC-101T. Unfortunately, GL Racing doesn't make this ESC anymore. Most, if not everyone locally runs Hobby Wing Mini28. You can set that up for Blinky mode as well. If the next question is what's best. Both I think are the same in terms of performance. I personally have never had any issue on my GL ESC and this is why I only run this ESC. It has been bulletproof and I also get to run motors with or without sensor wires like the motor I have in the car now (video). I'm not running the sensor wire but no cogging. You can't do that with the Hobby Wing.

@ actually Tjay I have been running my 1 hw mini 28 for a while now on a Houston rc 2500kv motor without the sensor wire and have not had any cogging issues. My main reason for asking is I would like to test another one against the HW mini 28 to see how they compare. I ran the gl 1.2 esc till 28 SRA outlawed it and loved that esc it was as you said bulletproof

@ That’s good to know about the Houston RC 2500KV because the Rocket 2500KV (no sensor), cogs with the HW. Yeah, those 1.2 ESC’s are really good too and that you can still buy that. Idk why complicate these classes. They’re going to push the drivers away. Just have any ESC, open it with any motors at certain KV (for example 2500KV max at 2850KV). Mini-Z is not that big at any local shops. You’re lucky to get 25 drivers (not entry) on a club race. This shouldn’t be that technical, it’ll push drivers away.

@ I absolutely agree Tjay, our club race last month we had 22 drivers and there were only about 5 or 6 of us running the lipo classes and AAA 3500kv, everyone else was running RM spec cars and Box stocks

@ Now the LiPo drivers are forced to buy specific ESC (which is not cheap) just so they can enter “legally” in a club race. 🤦‍♂️ GL has new ESC without the built-in BT. I think the part number ends in …060. Don’t buy the GL that ends in …030. That has built in Bluetooth and it has throttle delay. You can find that video in my channel. Don’t get that. Anyway, that’s $90 + tax and shipping. $100 for something you didn’t need to buy. 😬

I've only tried Sanwa M17 (and other Sanwa models) and had Futaba 10PX. The low latency on those for me is a bit much for the kit cars. I like the low latency in the MR04EVO2 but not in the kit chassis. I'm currently using NB4 although I also have NB4+ but that one is not being used. Just a back up radio.

@@tjaymacRC TY

Hi, Sorry not going to answer that first question because my driving level is advance vs most. I may recommend a chassis when the driver should really be driving a Kyosho box stock. I only have 98mm experience.

@ I have a kyosho just asking a Pro since you have experience with all frames

@@EMDRONES Assuming you’re still new in this scale but Expert in big sclae RC, my honest opinion would be the Atomic MRX but you have to keep it box stock because its cheap at around $290 and it will be ready to race and easy to drive in 2500KV class. Now assuming you are new to RC world and you have few months on Mini-Z. I would suggest to get the MR04EVO2 and race that in the EVO class. That is probably the most fun you’ll have if you keep it on a budget. You don’t even need motor pod or aluminum frontend, keep it plastic. When you enter the kit chassis, the driving and tuning is different and will require more time tuning vs driving. Anyway, just fyi.

@@tjaymacRC Thank you so much Happy holidays this was the info i needed ! your the best Thanks again im here watching your vids for the Knowledge and seeing what a Pro looks for in his Gear. setup and tune

@@EMDRONES Happy Holidays to you too and Thanks watching! 🤙

@@MiniZTom I’m running the steel chassis.

@@takarukai 😁

Hi, That would be 6x4x0.25 inch.

@@MiniZTom Thanks. PN 3500KV V3.

@ going pretty smooth!

In my Noble NB4, the ST Dual Rate is exactly at 74%. I started at 70% then settled in at 74%. If too much, use front tires that has lesser traction. I have KS1038 and if I'm having the same problem, I would try 20mm with KS1142 if I really want to tone down the steering.

Yes, that's the reason for the battery. I will eventually try it but not right now, I'm not ready to change in bulk. I have the white knuckles. I just prefer the black for my driving. I'll have to try that next time but honestly, I don't think I'll be able to tell that difference on the track. The ball stud in my servo horn has a bit of flex but I don't notice it on the track. But I'll try it one of these days.

I believe it! But the motors that we're running are spec in our class between the local Expert drivers which is the 2 years old PN 3500KV V3.

www.kenonhobby.com/REFLEX-RACING-LMP3-TYPE-FRONT-BUMPER_p_50167.html www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-Lexan-Body-Post-35mm-4-pcs_p_46099.html

@@michaelhavlena923 Its best to bring it to your local track and ask the locals. Mini-Z community are helpful, the local drivers can help tighten/loosen your diff and then you can get the feel for it.

Thanks TJ, what do you recommend as best diff to use with the MWX R1 in mod? The PN one seems way too finicky…

@ I personally use Kyosho Ball Diff on all my cars. The diff in the video is a PN Gear Diff. MWX Performance has a new diff called “Slipper Diff”. I haven’t tried it but its something to check out and try.

Cool, had no clue that the Kyosho ball diff would fit the R1. I’ll be sure to bring it to the track next time. Also, I just ordered for the slipper diff. Can’t wait yo try it out. Can’t remember, but does the Kyosho ball diff need lots of maintenance? It must have been properly greased from factory?

@ Unfortunately you need to modify the Kyosho diff to fit the 64 pitch spur gears we use. I don’t have a video of that but I’m sure you can Google.

Thanks! I did touch on it a bit at 1:52 mark. You will have to tune it on the track. Its just like the pinion and spur. You’ll have to go by sound and feel on the track. Follow what I did in 1:52 and adjust from the adjuster nut once you have the wheel hub covering the right side bearing. Tighten/Loosen adjuster nut and go around the track. Turn adjuster nut little at a time, maybe 1/4 turn at a time.

@@stevebeckers Hi, thank you! I’m glad you like the videos. I do have how-to videos. You can search in my channel or go to my playlist here: youtube.com/@tjaymacrc?si=pUJFUwCXiuC-cGZp