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Hello and congratulations for the tests with the fuse I would like to ask you something I have a large LFP battery pack (EVE 280K) in 9S 4P or 28 volts 1120AH and my voltage converter is 4000 watts to 28 volts which fuse do you recommend between the + of the converter? 150A? fuse like yours or a fixed fuse like VICTRON? THANKS laurent

Andy is stingy he wont help subscribers

Perfect review/TUTORIAL. Thank you very much. I'm buying one of these tomorrow, but one thing wasn't clear for a layman like me: how to power it? I have 2 celular phone battery chargers: one Samsung 5V 1A, and one Miei 5V 2A. Could I power this unit with both of them despite the ampere difference? Thanks again.

Is there a way to boost its voltage to atleast 120v?

review is including circuit diagram not components only

Is there any way to change the current at which this charges batteries or it always tries 1A? Asking because I was wondering if this could be safely used to charge smaller capacity batteries.

Good review. I have subscribed.

I can't find it on AliExpress I will prefer AliExpress link

Can this be used for button-top batteries or just for flat top batteries? I mean in terms of length, have you tried to see if a button top 18650 better fits in those cell holders?

I have the same model but have two issues 1. The power resistor 5k, 1 W, which came with my power supply (65 v, 13 A), gets pretty hot. Is this normal?for 65v it should draw less than 1 W, right? 2. Is the option to remove i-set? Instead of setting constant current, just let the circuit draw current it needs? Thanks for the review. Great presentation 👏

Do this have reverse polarity protection in input?

I intend to use the one I just ordered on my e-bike which usually pulls 3kw @ 52v(58.8v). I’m limiting the controller amps to 22A to give around 1,500w so I’m hoping I will get a higher RPM for the hub motor at the cost of torque and acceleration. I ordered two fans to replace the nasty cheap one that’s on it, hopefully will hold the temperature down lower.

Excellent video. Very clear explanation. Really helpful! Thank you

Exactly the video I was looking for for a while now. Can you fix the link to the resources you used here, link is broken. Thank You..

спасибо за такой обширный тест

Good 👍

Hi, if you want to make a setup with more batteries doesn't need the first chip (next to the usb) isnt't it? It can be one for all or/and a microcontroller

This module has a problem. The voltage goes very high while switching it on. Be careful if you have a sensitive device to power up

I just got a tester like yours, but when I put charge a baterry, it just charge to 3.5v max You thing the pruduct is detective ?

What's the use of negative voltage watt can that power.

Can I the 4s balancer on my 3s battery pack?

looks like a mistake with current calculation. if you need 4V 2A on each cell you do not need 12V and 6A from PS. you need only 12V 2A

can i use this modules without a bms ?

Thanks for testing it. It's really bad and unsafe!

Can I add two cells in parallel in this bms to make a 3s2p pack, to increase capacity?

The video is very good. I would like to know how to control the output voltage, with an external source of 0 to 10V (dc), instead of the voltage control potentiometer. I would like to use an Arduino to do this voltage control, using a PWM to dc converter (0 to 10V). Thanks Francisco

Hi, Why for charging mode I reach 4.16 v (and 4.13 v for another cell) for one cell? Whereas with a classic charger I reach 4.20 volts. THANKS

yet another good detailed explanation, well done and keep them coming.

30v太陽板1200w的

fantastic detail i have subscribed.

So this isnt a 2 channel! You cant measure both channels at once.

Great testing methods, many thanks

Hello, thank you for the video. I am using such 40A bms but with 10mosfets version (REV2.3 was printed on the back side). Suddenly I noticed that battery voltage is 0.4-0.6V higher than output voltage. The voltage difference is noticed between B- and P-. I tried to short B- and P- as some people suggest but no reaction, problem still exist. This was not always like that, at the begging of use it was fine. Have you ever experienced such problem? Any ideas how to solve it?

good job, what you used as power supply to test the boost board?

How does it handle 0.001A of current in CC mode? It is possible to set such limit but does it work on practice?

You say it's max 20A input and you regularly put it at 30A Can't really blame the product then. But it obviously prefer over 30v input and better over 48v

I think the enhanced cooling advice/specification does not mean additional or bigger heat sink. Simply they mean you would need to add a FAN…

$5 on Alie*press

I really liked the review, I just bought this pwr supply for charging li-ion batteries

i did not like the surface of the contact and i think i m going to make it a bit more flat for better contactivity want it for permenant on use and no much swhtching..... still for 60 amps is quiet good .. thanks for tutorial. btw i might add a copper thin washer behind the spring to adapt the loosen gap after grind and polish the contactiv surfaces of the moving part

Thansk for great video. Is it possible to use one 4amp power supply to supply both USB-C inputs?

Thank you for this video, I had been looking for this information since I have a broken one and the output MOSFET had been changed to a lower specification one.

Thanks for the testing. I've blown up a couple of these, their "1200 watt" rating is super inflated. I was trying to use them to power a 36v ebike with 12v battery, and it just didn't work..the ebike was like 500watt, it just blew up the input fuse like you showed until it just died. I was wondering how to fix them. If you buy from amazon you can return them, but I'd rather just fix them or even improve them as there was not another option that I could see.

2550 Mah per cell?? Is that correct?

If the trip lever does not flip open when 100A trips then as an indicator it does not work for me.

Bought one, hoped it has CAPACITY MEASUREMENT CAPACITY RECOVERY RESIDUAL CAPACITY CHECK Seems like it doesn't So which of those could have some???

Congratulations for the review: well done and detailed. For this reason I add this clarification which I hope will be very useful. The manufacturer has made an important change; my release, which you see when you turn it on, is 4.4. In my case if you power with a single power supply the following happens: It is possible to discharge all four batteries but it is only possible to charge the two batteries that are on the same side of the power supply. I would like to point out that the "Charge" command is also accepted on the non-powered side but the current remains at "0" and for me this is a real defect of the software as it confuses the user's ideas. As soon as a second power supply is placed on the The other side also starts charging the other two batteries. However, if you leave it with just one power supply, the charging, I repeat, does not start, the current remains at zero and after a short time the charging cycle ends with the word end. It seems useful to me to include this new operating feature in one of the most complete descriptions available given that this object has no operating instructions

I had replaced pw4056 by tp4046 but pin 5 alway hight voltage (not connect battery cell) ? It’s 4.12v

The reset button is for correction voltage and amps that what they said on manual

All of these knock-offs from China are junk. As are many of the fuses, large and small. The off-brand Mega fuses being some of the worst and most dangerous. Test a 100 AMP off-brand mega fuse rated for 100 AMPs, it did not break until 250 AMPs!! There goes your entire RV, Boat, Truck or whatever it was supposed to protect. Stick with name brands. Bussmann being one of the best.