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Thanks man I appreciate it!

Yes, it started around 80-90k ish. Unfortunately blue smoke (oil burning) on cold start has absolutely nothing to do with external leaks or PCV issues. Being a spicy economy car, VW used inferior valve guide seals. The oil leaks past them on higher mileage MQB and burns off on cold start. Luckily, it’s such a small amount of oil even at 140k+ it doesn’t add up to a significant amount over my 7k oil change interval, but it is annoying & can only really be fixed with new bronze valve guides/seals (upgraded from OEM)

If it happened with the parts change it’s the parts you installed. Double check the ground straps, but it’s most likely incorrect or poor quality components

Thanks!

I crank the flow up to 55cfh on the torch & 20 on the back purge. 88amps on 0.65 & as high as 105-125 depending on what thickness flange or hanger is going on. The trick is to move quickly and cool the puddle with filler

@@BaunPerformance good to know! Really appreciate the response. I'll give it a go and see what happens

He’s driving it from SC to OK now, still no issues

Correct, I’d recommend OEM GM as it’s far better quality than aftermarket

Glad I could help!

I’d recommend a OEM is38 from FCP (lifetime warranty FTW) if you’re happy with the power it makes now, although with any upgraded turbo should be paired with a upgraded intercooler (if you don’t have one already). 2015 cars had early revision turbo and other engine parts, so a fresh current revision is38 should last 100,000+ miles worry free with proper maintenance.

My wife’s been begging me to tint the shop truck, but on a classic I kinda like the clear glass. I agree on a blacked out R tint is a must, but being from the northeast it can be a issue (local laws, tickets, ect)

Water pump isn’t run off the timing set like older VW, so it can be done whenever. You can check timing chain stretch via VCDS or through a inspection cover, but the Gen3 TSI tend to last a long time

Gives jussssstttt enough room to squeeze it out

I was just doing my HVAC guy a solid, I don’t sell any parts for Veloster normally

Thanks! Development of the tooling is just as fun as the parts themselves

You make one cut to the OEM catback, which is one piece from the factory. Exactly the same method as a resonator delete, & fully reversible with the supplied clamp if you ever return to stock.

$1,300

Spools a little quicker

No problem!

I’ve never used it, but will when it’s time to replace my big ticket items; is38, B16, DS2500, ect

I sell & ship the Downpipe & Midpipe, which is $3,250. There’re videos specifically on that. The full Valved TBE in this video ($6,000) was too expensive to justify offering as a production part. 42 hours of fabrication to complete, which is way beyond what most Golf R owners are willing to spend. $6,000 was cost,

Big relief if it is vs a RMS!

Thanks for watching!

Hopefully this will help resolve it! Definitely a poor design

I don’t think there is a dedicated drain.

I didn’t save anything unfortunately, and I ordered from whoever had them in stock so it’s not in one nice neat place to try to track them down

I’m originally from Poland, OH

Vortex std is a league above the DTR, which is comparable to the is38. Is38 spools a little quicker & the DTR pulls a little harder to redline. All three have their place in the market for sure, it just depends on if you want it to feel quick, be quick, or actually put down impressive numbers. DTR will feel quick, is38 is quick, and Vortex is the way to go if you wanna run impressive 1/4 mile times & making 400+ on the dyno. For a daily driver that sees the mountains & track days I love my is38 as a good all around’er. Not saying the other two don’t fit that bill, you’d be basically splitting hairs on daily use, but the is38 is the OEM+ champ for obvious reasons & FCP Euro selling them with a lifetime warranty is just icing on the cake. The best value if you’re starting from scratch is the DTR, since tuning is included.

@@BaunPerformance thanks for your answer jake! so if you had to build your GTI again from scratch, would you choose the DTR over the IS38?

It’s kind of a wiggle and shake to get it aligned with all of the shift forks. Double check they’re all lined up in pairs

BRAPPP

Neutral with the AC on at idle is the loudest, because what you’re hearing is gear chatter. The mounts themselves don’t cause any NVH, they simply reduce/hide it less than the squishy OEM mounts

I’ve used the same CK torch on my 210EXT and the Typhoon, it’s not specific to either. I called Salem Welding Supply in Salem, OH and told them what I wanted & they placed the order and shipped it to me, so unfortunately I don’t have specs on it…although it’s one phone call away if that’s what you wanted to do. I’ve maxed out the 210 on AC issue free without a water cooler. It would be nice to have, but definitely not a necessity.

Appreciate the reply. I’ve been happy with my little 161STH but it’s just that, little and only does DC. I just see a few issues pop up with the coolers and I’m a hobbyist so someone in your position not having a cooler and pumping out work is very helpful. I was concerned that AC would heat up the torch too much. Great content and thanks

99.99% of people aren’t looking for a full send knock sensors turned off tune

Thanks!

Yes! It was a good fix, no further seepage after it was cleaned up and swapped

Kno it’s knot

These should last a good 100k or so. I sold the Suburban recently, but the 6112 were awesome

@@BaunPerformance I sure hope so. Next I have to figure out where the oil leak is coming from. Hopefully it’s just the oil cooler lines and not the rear main.

@@BaunPerformancegot them installed. Huge upgrade in ride quality

I’m sure they’d be willing to work with you, if nothing else maybe a few bucks extra for the torch you want vs the ones you don’t

Thank you!

It’s a OEM pan I bought from RockAuto and modified in a previous video

My friend brought his wife’s Atlas over & we filmed what time allowed of the service. The main focus was pointing out what people (VW techs included) mess up the differential & Haldex service. This is a light hearted, one take, couple guys in the shop after work, but before plans our wives made afterwards time limited video. If you want a step by step with graphics and manual references, part numbers, torque specs, ECT this particular video isn’t it

@@BaunPerformance The video is great overall, what I meant is you already spent so much time creating it, so including final step of releasing the drain plug would make it whole, but regardless I did mine and had funny result. After replacing the filter in the transmission, filled back with 3L, heated to 36'C, released the plug and nothing came out for 3 sec, then barely anything, but I wanted to do the flush anyway, so removed the internal pipe, and let the mixture of old fluid from tq conv with that 3L of fresh fluid out, and re-filled again with 3L. Heated again to 36'C and now after removing drain plug, the fluid was coming out long due to 0.5in pan, and 0.5 in filter, so 2nd time without removing pan 3L is way too much.

I’ve got them brand new from VW bad from stock, sometimes they’ve got manufacturing defects

Thanks, but old video! Check out the rest of the channel, it’s come a long way trying to get as much out there for the MQB community as possible

Thanks for watching!

Little projects like this are a great way to get started if you buy a welder, when I first started it was borrowing tools from a neighbor and learning as I went!

@@BaunPerformance all I have is a drill press, hacksaw and a dream🤩