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Thanks!

Hey thanks for making this. Actually super helpful.

Nope steel was used on the snake head, then brass, smooth steel saddles started up again in 1954, 1958 the steel threaded saddles replace the smooth ones. This is the actual truth, son you need to research first, then make videos. The steel saddles were used far more in both the 50s and 60s than brass. The early tele sound is the ash tray. Not the saddles. I know all this because I build very high end pre cbs clones and they are accurate. The bridge you use matters. You may like a modern bridge, and that fine, it is not however vintage correct, nor does it sound that way.

Chime factor like new strings, but better. You did a nice job. Looking forward to doing more of this work myself. Have a larger Epiphone like that one that I'm always working on and I didn't even need see the guitar to know that it was an Epiphone from first strum. Thank you!!

Don’t shim a nut up. Just buy a new knut and size it correctly Nothing worse than a nut shimmed up.

why i ear this guy and i want to kill myself??? lol

so usefull thank you so much for sharing this 🤗

Did you lose the truss rod cover, from having to adjust the neck so many times ? Just wondering

Why is it that almost every video dealing with Taylor setups is just unbearable to watch? Can people just get to the points and leave out all the nonsense chit chat.

Thanks for this complete and useful info!! Could you tell me the name of the song of min 24:05 ??

Here again in 2024 ❤

I don't get what you felt uneasy about.

Plastic is the only no option. I cant decide between tusq and bones. It just different. Bone with warm and body. Tusq with clarity. I'm using tusq in my martin dc16gte. Maybe I'll try bone. But i think i'll miss some clarity

too much talk

I'm an experienced player that's done a ton of guitar work, but I worked with one of these for over a year and could not get it to stay in tune. The nut is good, lubed, etc but the trem would not come back to the same resting spot - you could clearly see the arm visually that it wasn't returning to the same spot. Finally had to remove it to save my sanity.

That’s why I put roller bridges on my guitars theGE and the a would never stay tuned

I put roller bridge on my Gibson type guitar or nylon ,stays in tune better

You should never pry straight up on tail post collar's unless your intent is to swop them out. These fittings are held in place with pressure and a spot of glue. Maybe less on a hollow body! If there is a more destructive aftermarket "Upgrade" for guitars, I have not seen it yet.

Cums at 10:02

The plastic sounded bad The bone had too much attack when you strummed so the sustain afterwards was not in balance with the attack. The Tusq sounded the best : it had a nice , balanced sound : not too much attack , a nice sustain after hitting the strings .

I get close to the same tone with a Blue Chip pick even with plastic saddle and nut.

I ve heard brass parts are best

In my case, it didn't work for me. Customer service refused to send shims. They provide me with an authorized tech location

Thank you so much you cleared up alot for me and made me feel more confident about moving forward with upgrades

Bone. Nice sounding guitar and playing!

Guys this guitar fucking sucks. He plays incredibly well. I’ve had this guitar for like 15 years I think. I hate it so much. I’ve tried to break it…. It won’t break. It’s like a curse. I won’t see it for years then bam! There it is. Ugly fat guitar. Pros? Built like a tank. Always there to haunt you. Makes you kinda jacked cause it’s so hard to play.

its really the saddle that counts not the Nut, the sound difference is from the saddle not the nut 100% sure

Bone and tusq sounder much fuller than the plastic

Lots of great information, very nice!

I honestly like how charismatic you are brotha. You hit that into like a documentary segment history channel and it really kept me from switching ! I hope you make it to the top Kidd we need more passionate entertainers and teachers like yourself

Awful.

Folks, the customary factory shims should be a 2 on top (rectangle) and an 8 on heel (triangle, sort of). The difference is 6. If you need 12 up top then add 6 more to your heel. 12 top and 18 on heel.

Also for the treble booster setup, you kinda want to have your amp already breaking up, I've been using a blues JR and i set the gain to 9 and quite good amout of volume, this is that when i kick the treble booster on i can get the most drive posible

I did this to a yamaha pacifica with the stock pickups, and i did got some similar sound but the problem was that even using the bridge and middle pickups it would still sound very twangy, thats why tri sonics are desired when making these, since they have a higher output and inductance than normal single coils but, if you get single coils with similar characteristics as the Tri Sonics, you can get very similar sounds, for example rory Gallagher had a similar sound (probably because he was using a vox AC30)

I would have used a 3x3 PRS style headstock for this build, im trying tp build something similar to a red special but kind of my own

aweful!!!

Clapping only uses the middle pickuo apparently

I find listening to these samples that bone either brings more high freq in front or loses some lows and tusq keeps the freqs better overall. I have bone nut and saddles in a Yahama FG and almost no lows at all.. I will try tusq next

nut and saddle choice of material and shaping either one is NOT for an amateur... it does take some skill and manual dexterity and basic tools. Plastic is cheapest and you may not care about the better sound of TUSQ or real bone and select plastic instead. Some people do not care about the difference. A re-sold guitar with a better saddle/nut commands a higher price or even a sale versus 'no sale'... YOU make the choice.

A String Wrap behind the Nut will Help Eliminate the Ringing and Overtones that are too Harsh!!!! Other than that: Bone Sounded Best!!!! 🎵🎶👍🎶🎵🙏😎

Like, why isn't this the default already? Or even make it turn on all the pickups. They're not wired to be additives anyway.

Try Steel Fretts Loud Bright

Great video! Thanks for the information. Do the older, pre-NT necks, use shims, as well and are they any different from today's shims?

what tusq saddle did you get for your epiphone i would to try it on my epi

You're too soft

you mounted your bridge a fraction of a mm too far from the 12th fret. NEVER hand make your neck or drill body holes for the bridge. A 1/4 of a mm in either direction will require you to re-tune your ax every time you change keys. (it will NEVER intonate correctly). It's not an easy fix because no wood filler is as strong and resonate as wood. Use a standard 2 part apoxy with sawdust (in a hurry) to fill the old holes. Wait a week and re-drill. OR, just buy a NEW light body that is already drilled. Stew mac has fair stuff, -nothing lightweight, however. Parts made by reputable companies (e.g. Schecter) will be made using CNN manufacturing. This is GOOD. This is why MOST new guitars tune well, out of the box. As a kid, I remember the days before CNN (long before) when your first consideration for buying ANY guitar was it's ability to tune! To find a well tuning box that also sounded like a cathedral would cost significant bucks (for the day). I have no idea how Leo did it, but most NEW pre-Colombian Fenders played in tune -even Teles with but three adjusters. The NEW repro threaded steel saddles are not good. The original threaded steel saddles were made from over-head cam engine bolts (valve cover bolts cut into pieces). These bolts were made from the finest hardened (dense) steel. Today, however, the repro threaded saddles are CAST from MOLDS and less dense steel ( made with zinc! How cheap can you get?). Hence, the modern threaded saddles don't sound good. I have a '65 Esquire. When I tried to replace my original threaded saddles with the standard, modern Fender 6 adjuster, barrel saddles, the sound reduction was obvious and severe. I played one chord and 4 or 5 notes. I then put the original saddle back onto the guitar -FAST. It was frightening. BTW, this guitars weighs just an ounce over 5 bs and has more sustain than any electric guitar I have played in over 50 years. Nope, it's made from ordinary Alder. However, the pieces were but from the outside of the tree. Outside wood is lighter. With Ash, the wood MUST be taken from below the water line to yield a guitar under 8 or 9 lbs. Modern Fender is making fine guitars, but you have to lift weights to play them. I have regularly seen Les Paul's that are lighter than Teles. A heavy body may sound OK and clean, but only a LIGHT electric guitar body can offer enough resonation and sustain to make the guitar sound so good that your will sell your wife to the the Arabs before you sell your guitar.

Hope u doin well and keep doing reviews....☯️

I do not see any comments at all about cost and how to do the work ... go look and find out if you want to spend the money needed and the skill level needed....

Skip all the emotional inflections and just deliver a message...

I dont have a Taylor, but it seems like an expensive guitar that should be playable from the factory.