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@@QRS365 she started to feel like nana’s 85 Olds sedan when I’d go around corners. A little too much sway in the sway bar :)

@@colinbyers2659 me? No. But this guy made a GREAT one: th-cam.com/video/MQ8RtPcQhiA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HiQlX_zQaBJqMjSa

@@Peizxcv yeah - we live in the south. I never buy cars from the north due to the rust.

@@DanUren-yu4qv the LE is a much better truck and you’re right about the amp adding to the difficulty.

@@4u2nve hi there - if you read through the evolution of comments, you’ll see where I mention that. It’s a must IMO. Home Depot type is fine

@@TallFamilyFilms I’m not talking about a thin piece of insulation, mine is a narrow thin piece of finish trim that’s plastic. There may have been insulation under that with some kind of two sides tape at some point but there isn’t anymore. But again that’s not my issue, I’m looking for the piece of plastic. Mine sits on top of that cowl and is broken.

@@4u2nve I know the piece you’re talking about. Mine cracked into many pieces. I could never find a part number for it. But its purpose is to not allow tons of water to come down the windshield and overflow the drain. So the one-sided sticky insulation strip from Home Depot did the trick. If you ever find that part number for the other plastic strip, please let me know

@@33braeden I have the same experience. It made me wonder what the purpose of these gears was.

@@dmann1209 such a terrible design

@@tigidou3344 this was a while ago but it was for one of two reasons: 1. I was going to go a different direction with the project and changed my mind. 2. Simply turning the wheel wasn’t enough and I needed more slack. I’m pretty The parts came with a new axle nut which makes this likely. But I’m guessing you don’t need to remove it?

@@scarecrow8408 I don’t know why it’s there but the replacement cost wasn’t worth it in my old truck so I removed them to see if they could be repaired and noticed the heat worked fine without it.

Did you also have a/c

@ absolutely

Yeah but could you switch back and forth between heat and ac and only have one on

@ the ac and heat worked normally in the truck after removing the components inside this box.

@@LichaelMewis look in the engine compartment in that location and let me know if it coming from that black box back there

@@Supermazs bolt stripped and just spun I’m guessing?

@@TallFamilyFilmsspun but I got it haha

@@danchoxrp sorry - I added to the description to leave those alone. You can do it without removing those. I don’t think they come out.

@@TallFamilyFilmsthanks. I got the actuator out. Had to bend a piece of the tin amp bracket to get it out. Fiddled with it for 20 mins cussing every 3 seconds. Lol

@@danchoxrp so sorry man. Hopefully you got it fixed. TH-cam makes is so hard to fix a video so adding text is all that’s possible

@@charlesanderson1220 I’m certain you lose some doing that, but just remember to top off oil (and all fluids)

@@patrickmurray503 no need to drain completely but I’d replace the filter and top it off.

Thanks, @TallFamilyFilms . Subbed!

@@jimmcintosh7450 😳

You sound like a lot of fun to be around 💀

@jimmcintosh7450 - I just re-watched this video and the bolt sizes are indeed mentioned around :40 🫳 🎤

@@dudebud72 try turning the temp all the way one direction and then all the way the other. Maybe twice. Give it a few seconds at the top and bottom and make the change. My 2017 has too much grease in the passenger side actuator (I need to replace it but it’s a PITA). Doing this loosens it up to work properly. Good luck!

@@Dougarony it’s a Honda so I’d assume 10mm for the VTT but you’re going to need a whole socket set to get to it. But this isn’t the VTC actuator (it’s a LOT more complicated). It is “related” to engine oil so it’s conceivable to cause a P1009 build be top of my list. One thing I don’t show in this video is you must support the engine with a jack and a block or wood on top before removing the motor mounts. Those bolts are massive - probably 22mm or larger.

Forgot to mention, you can easily test the VTT with some wires and the car battery. If it clicks, you’re good to go and can put it back in. Clean it up though. Don’t let the wires touch :)

@@TallFamilyFilms Well, I got as far as the 2 bolts off on the front bracket, but the 3rd one started to round off, so I stopped. Seafoam?

@@Dougarony it’s a motor treatment that “liquifies” oil build up (like what you’re trying to get to in that screen. google it - should be at any auto parts store. Read instructions but you basically just pour it into oil reservoir (for an RDX I think it’s like 6oz)

@@TallFamilyFilms yes I have heard of it, thanks

@@Dougarony well, the good news is this likely won’t be expensive, assuming you’re decent around cars. The VTC strainer needs to be checked for debris and clogging. To get to it, you need to remove the belt, tensioner, and PS pump. PITA. It’s a tiny screen held in by a bolt IIRC. Then there’s the VTC actuator itself that would need to be tested. I’m sure TH-cam has videos for both of these. However, before you do any of that, use some seafoam and see if that doesn’t resolve it. I’ve heard of that fixing this code.

@@TallFamilyFilms Yes, I good with cars (usually) this RDX Turbo seems to have alot more stuff in the way vs the Accord. Seafoam? IN the engine oil? How much?

@@TallFamilyFilms Update: about 2 weeks ago, checked my oil, I had used about a 1/2 quart in 3k miles, I had a 5 qt jug of Mobile 1 synthetic oil left that had less than a quart left. I just emptied it, didnt recheck till I read where this code is usually for low oil, but what about too much? I had overfilled it (some) I took out about 12 Onces, no check engine light now! Thanks for all your help! Take care!

@@Dougarony that much over shouldn’t be a problem. You likely are needing a valve cover gasket. I have a video on that. It’s not super fun because of the ignition coil wiring apparatus.

@@TallFamilyFilms How could a gasket leak cause that code? I never saw any leaks before? I cleaned the area, I will see if any leaks continue, but drove around a ton yesterday and the code didn't return. :)

@@yubtypin mine is working perfect so far. I believe it had a 3 year warranty

@@justinramon6619 yes. This had no impact on AC

@@karadnags 2007

Glad I could help

@@TH-cam4MounTain colors and wiring are often times inconsistent. That being said, Black is almost always the wire that would go to the brass screw. And the white wire almost always would go to the nickel or silver plated screw. That third screw is usually not black, it’s green in lamps - usually. And that’s ground. The “3 way” is controlled by the socket itself. But you could solve this really easy with a voltmeter that you could pick up for literally five dollars if there’s a harbor freight near you. You might even be able to borrow one from an auto parts store if you leave a deposit. You would safely separate each of the bare wires and plug the wire into the wall and then begin testing with the voltmeter starting with the black and white wires. The red lead from the voltmeter should go to black and the black lead would go to the white wire. If you get 120 V, you know you’re correct. If you get -120 V then the black and white are reversed.

@@TLEE68 there’s nothing like that feeling when it breaks loose! Way to stick with it - you really put a lot of elbow grease (and brain grease!) into getting that one out.