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sorry, my error- I see it now; it is the following item: Metabones Canon EF Lens to Micro Four Thirds T Speed Booster XL 0.64x MB_SPEF-m43-BT3; is that correct? Thanking you in advance.

@jainpaigemilan4215 thank you! The item you mention is Not a C-Mount to MFT adapter, but a focal reducer, which shrinks down the image circle of an EF lens to make it brighter and fit better on smaller sensors like the MFT sensor of the GH5. If you want to adapt Super8 C-Mount lenses to MFT, just search for "C-Mount to MFT adapter" on Amazon or Ebay and you will find plenty. I also just bought a cheap generic one which works for my combination. The Metabones Speebooster will not work!

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker thank you so very much for your reply; my word! thank you for the clarification; but, I want to get the same quality image you have, so do not need to focal reducer? and, if so, then, what is this? and, then, is there no need for the Metabones Adapter- and if not, what was its purpose? my apologies on this, I have got lost a little. May I, please, i) confirm by exploring with you the following components which ought to comprise towards the complete kit for producing the type of output which you have shown, which is immense; and, ii) the s/w required on the camera itself, does it come with all the necessary s/w? and iii) the editing s/w in order to ensure the sound is placed; thereby, ensuring the film is complete and to be released; i do know about the SD Card and such card, so that is alright. So, for example, I may quite possibly have the lens: Schneider Optivaron 6-70 mm f/1.4; thus, would I not need to have a adapter which is to magnify the by lets say x2, x3, or the like because you have have close ups of shrubs and leaves and the like; how do I ensure of this possibility and functionality? Thanking you in advance, Regards,

@@jainpaigemilan4215 This is a very in-depth topic, but I will try to explain it in a matter of a comment: The camera is using an MFT (Micro four thirds) sensor and mount. If you have lenses with an EF Mount, which are made for bigger sensors like Fullframe and APS-C, a focal reducer like the Metabones Speedbooster are helpful. Those adapters have a lens element in them which compress the larger image circle of these EF lenses to better fit on the smaller sensor, thus giving me a brighter and wider image. It's like the opposite of a tele converter. Otherwise, these lenses would not work as well on smaller sensors. I use this combination for the talking head part of the video. It's just my main setup for these kinds of shots. On the other hand we have the video which I shot with the said Optivaron lens, which this video is about. Here we have to go the opposite direction. The sensor is too big to cover the smaller Super8 image circle. The Optivaron lens also uses a C-Mount, so we need a simple C-Mount to MFT-Mount adapter, so we can mount the lens on the camera. Next, just as I show in the video, we engage the Tele Converter function and digitally crop in on the sensor, so the tiny image circle of the Optivaron fills the image. You need to do the zoom-in, because otherwise you only get a tiny circle in the center of the image. By digitally cropping in, we fill the image. The macro shots you see in the video are made with the macro-function of the lens. I also added some grain in post-production via the Filmconvert plugin in Premiere Pro to give it a more filmic feeling. I hope this clears everything up. I don't know what you mean by "s/w", but I hope you know what i meant. For this output you need: 1. the camera (GH5 or even better GH6/G9II) 2. C-Mount to MFT adapter 3. lens 4. fast SD card 5. tripod (stabilization does not work very well) 6. Editing software like Premiere Pro and Film emulation plugin like Filmconvert or Dehancer cheers

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker Thank you so very much for this information. Apologies re: 's/w' - software; which, you have just mentioned in your reply; which, is useful; and, for which, I am grateful. Hence, herein onwards, commences my journey on seeking out the best priced products; thus, exploring the possible options, therein; or, otherwise via other possible routes; but, with a view to ascertaining this range of products; my goodness. Incidentally, would you ever go back to using the Beaulieu 6008S Digital Professional Super 8? as a format? and its general feel?

There are plenty of ultrawides for MFT, such as the lovely Samyang 7.5mm fisheye, which I use from time to time, but also lenses from Laowa and other manufacturers.

As far as I remember it is technically possible to switch to NTSC via a hack, but you loose all the PAL framerates, which is a bummer for anyone outside the US and Japan. But if the only concern is 24p, then this could be a viable option

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker I have the America release or North America NTSC release. When you switch to PAL you have to hold two buttons and if you want to switch back turn the camera off and hold those two buttons. The Panasonic G7 can do this but without the firmware hack.

If you want the best quality, this combo is in a totally different league than the 200d, which is a lowend consumer camera. No comparison really.

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker thank you so much then I will go for it I never heard of this brand that's why I was hesitating a little bit

Yeah, Panasonic didn't really make any new consumer cameras and are more focused on the mid to higher end market.

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker so as long as it's a good brand then why not

I shoot MF only on the GX80. The olympus has one of the best MF clutches for shooting manual.

It's a dummy battery to usb adapter. Just type "GX80 dummy usb" on Amazon and you get a ton of results. I just bought one of these generic ones that adapt that tiny dc connector to usb and it works fine.

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker just got one and it's working, perfect ! have a good day!

Great to hear!

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker also which setting you are using in video ? autofocus and 50 fps ?

Haha, no the opposite. Manual focus (since I am not really changing my position and the AF on the GX80 is really not that good) and 25p for a more cinematic framerate.

Depends on your budget and needs. You can get the GH5 with V-Log activated for a steal if you are lucky and the IBIS and 10Bit Codecs are a big plus. Also the possibilty to easily upgrade with the XLR module which you can use with the higher end models later on is also something I appreciated on the GH5. But the GH4 goes for around 300-400€ nowadays, which is quite cheap. And if you don't need 10Bit internally and IBIS, it's still a very good camera.

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker okay, well my budget is around 2000€ maybe a bit more. First I was torn between the Eva 1 and the S1H. I saw a S1H with the Sigma 24-70 l mount for 2400€ the Eva is around 2000€ but without a lens.

Do you just want camera and lens or do you also need lighting and audio. Because if that's the case I would recommend to budget some for that too, because good lighting and sound makes a bigger difference than between a GH5 and a S1H. I can recommend the GH5 with V-Log anytime. If you get is cheap you can get a Viltrox Speedbooster and get some nice EF glass. I have the Metabones one, but I had them for many years now. I still shoot only with EF glass and it's great that I can switch between my S5II, S1 and my GH5 and GH6. Also EF glass is super cheap for it's quality, if you can live without AF. The Sigma 18-35 1.8 is still a gem and under 600€ used. This and the Sigma 24-70 EF Art are my go-to lenses for many years now and I have no reason to switch.

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker ich hab gerade gesehen, dass du aus Österreich kommst, ich könnte auch in deutsch schreiben 😅. Ich bräuchte noch ein paar Lichter. Als Mikrofon hätte ich noch ein unbenutztes Rode Stereo Mic. Da ich mit dem Motorrad fahren aufhöre, verkaufe ich mein Motorrad in diesem Jahr, natürlich kann ich dann nicht des ganze Geld für Kameraequipment ausgeben, da ich nochmal auf die Schule gehe, aber ich könnte zumindest nochmal 1.000-1500€ auf mein Budget darauflegen. Ich weiß halt nicht, ob es sinnvoll ist am Anfang gleich etwas teureres zu kaufen, oder eher nicht? Ich hatte mal die GH4 zum Testen, ich fand die echt super, allerdings war sie mir etwas zu klein, wobei des nicht so ein großes Problem war, ich hab bis jetz nur mit Camcordern gefilmt, da is der Formfaktor ein wenig anders. Hat man mit dem Speedbooster dann noch die Wasser- und Staubdichtigkeit? Des mit der GH5 werde ich mal im Hinterkopf behalten. Autofokus ist immer so ne Sache, bis jetz hab ich nur mit Autofokus gefilmt, wobei ich mittlerweile mitbekommen habe, dass man eig mit Manuellen Fokus filmen sollte😅

Kannst gerne deutsch schreiben mit mir. 😄 Die GH4 ist tatsächlich eher klein, aber das gilt für die meisten modernen Kameras. Eine GH5 oder S1 mit Akkugriff ist da schon deutlich größer und liegt gut in der Hand. Du kannst ja die Kamera mit Cage und Griffen aus ausbauen, damit sie taktiler wird. Mache ich meistens für größere Shoots so. Wenn du nicht so viel Erfahrung mit Systemkameras hast bringts nicht viel gleich viel Geld auszugeben. Eine GH5 macht tolle Bilder, und auch nach 6 Jahren nutze ich sie immer wieder und verdiene mein Geld damit. Solange du nicht im dunkeln filmst und weißt was du tust bist du mit ihr auch die nächsten Jahre gut beraten. Steck das Geld lieber in gute Objektive, Licht, Mikro oder evtl Gimbal oder Slider. Die Kamera dahinter ist austauschbarer als dass, was du vor der Kamera machst.

Not really an option for a professional workflow. You sacrifice a ton of dynamic range in Std mode. Log is the reason why you get more noise. It's the same story with any other camera. It's nothing what good noise reduction can't fix.

Thank you! Yes that's true. Sadly there is still no perfect option for the GH6 in my opinion.

Completely agree. Modern cameras are amazing tools, but with a good eye and craftsmanship you get amazing footage, no matter the gear.

B-Roll footage from the documentary is in V-Log, rest in Like709 for quicker grading.

thank you. I'm considering to get my first zoom lens (as 14-140) for the Gh5, what do you think? I'm shoot documentary film and event video.@@TheBudgetFilmmaker

Depends. If you shoot a lot of low light and don't need a long range, maybe consider the Olympus 12-40 2.8. Constant aperture and very sharp. The 14-140 has an amazing range but is not very good in low light scenarios.

It is possible but only for photos. For video it's too slow and unresponsive to be usable. Manual is the way to go here.

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker Yes, thanks 👍

Never used it but from specs and reviews definitely a great allrounder. Shallow depth of field is harder to get, since the sensor is smaller, but if that's not important then it's a great camera I think.

No filter, just the lens. I don't like to use those UV filters even for protection, since I found that they can mess with the color of the lens.

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker Thank you for your quick response, you're bril! 👍💗

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker It can be fully AF, since it's a M4/3 lens, right?

Thanks! Yes, all manual.

I think I combined a standard 12v cable with a usb dummy-battery, which needed a adapter piece to fit the standard 2,5mm 12v cable. I think those were all no name brands, so I don't think I can find the pieces after such a along time, sorry.

@@TheBudgetFilmmaker Didn't the 12v cable damage your camera? On the internet it says do not use more than 7.2v. Can you please make a video about powering Lumix with NPF battery?

The NP-F adapter plate has a 8.4v output. Sorry I got it wrong, it's a standard dc cable with a 2.5mm tip which I adapted to the narrower input which was 1.8mm if I remember correctly. Good suggestion, I will keep that in mind!