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It's amazing how when you watch hundreds of instructional and *advice* videos from people in 'the trade' how much variation there is in work. In the UK there are a lot of differences compared to this guy, and 99% of our houses are brick construction and have to face up to some pretty harsh and seasonal weather. PPE - a blue face mask? Really? Those things can't stop a fart let alone carcinogenic dust like this. FP3, filters or full air-driven mask. Ear defenders? He'll be suffering the effects of this before he's 40 without them. No guard on the grinder? I trust he actually tightened the blade up with the tool off-camera and not just by hand. Accident waiting to happen there. Didn't explain proper technique or the why's and how's for grinding. Get that wrong and you risk cutting into your brick. Not wetting the bricks after grinding? - It helps the mortar stick and stops the mortar drying out too quick and eliminating cracking. Can't comment on the ratio for over in the U.S. but 2:1 seems off. I'd use a 5:1:1 - 5 sand, 1, cement and 1 hydrated lime. The lime will help your mortar stick to the old stuff better and you won't need the activator. I wouldn't be impressed with a tradesman using my driveway or outside my house as a mixing deck. Just throw a piece of scrap wood or something. Scruffy! I personally hate mixing small batches in a wheelbarrow. You can see how some of the dry stuff is still hanging around on the sides of it. It'll weaken your mixture. Dressing off your pointing whilst it's still dry will always smear your brick. Slap your mortar in the joint (carefully), leave it to go off then use that brush to tap the mortar. It'll help pack it in and bed better into the joint. Once it's dry to touch, THEN you can start cleaning up the joint. Use something like the edge of a piece of wood or a finger jointer to smooth off the pointing. The concave shape will help direct water away from the joint. You don't want that sitting in there. If you do this there's no need to use acid as you won't have mortar all over your brick.

No lime added?

Hey brother, love your videos and your work. How can we reach you to get a quote?

Aren't you supposed to saturate the bricks with water before tuck pointing?

You said it was caused possibly by not using wall ties on that verticle crack. Is tuck pointing alone gonna solve the issue or putting in a wall tie like it's need a better fix? Honest question.

Hope your not tooling like that anymore 😂

Looks good brother. Nice work

I have an old brick house that is almost 200 years old, so the bricks are more of the soft clay variety. Is it ok to use newer mortar on these types of old bricks? It won't crack them or anything? Another concern I have is since the building is so old, there are many areas where you can tell there is massive amounts of mortar missing, gapping holes that appear to go behind the brick, so it appears that there is most likely mortar missing behind the wall. Should I just get a pipping bag and squeeze and squeeze mortar back behind the bricks until I can't anymore? Seems to be a nightmare project. Ha Ha

Can we use master seal NP1 repair a 1/2" concrete siding crack?

Very nice. Pretty! Thank you

What was the primer you used?

Use a sandwich blade..so much easier

That's the way she goes boys

good tips you should try wetting the joints a little bit bricks soaks up the water and helps the bond

That’s not tuckpointing

3:07 why make more work for yourself making a mess. Honest question ❤

Great video! How did you remove the existing caulking? We have that awful yellow spray foam where our red brick meets the concrete. :( Thanks!

What kind of acid do you recommend to clean off the outside of a chimney before spraying it with water repellant?

Won't this shrink and be a mess in a few years?

Good job

Common, any real mason would never use brick that didnt match to the point of this repair. You shoulda laid them all backwards they would match better not to mention they are an inch smaller. Your perps are huge.. and seriously what mason uses acid to clean the brick work

what's an appropriate price- rate for a mason to perform such a task?

is there lime in the masanry cement? or was it just portland cement

Clean out the joint first.

really does and the guy with the hat very funny and real laid back kool good friend to have on the team

Question: Why didn't you or someone fix that flu while the chimney was partly open?

shouldnt you wet the bricks slightly first?

What’s your business name? Might need some work

You the you the best.

Do your thing. You showed him. 🎉

You are so articulate and a great teacher! I love how you emphasized to go slow.

Great video... very informative...

Fake and staged

Where did you find that caulk spreading tool and what kind of primer is that?

Knee pads bro 😂

The puns we are all thinking

Sloppy job ridges everywhere big ass mommy knife

Can you tell us what kind of primer & what kind of caulk you use here?

nice video! what size Caulk Spatula did you use or recommend?

You always try to tool your best like it was a pressed in gasket but sometimes it better sealed then being pretty great vid bro

Next time use bulk can and 31 ounce Albion chinking sealant gun unless this was the only material available master seal good stuff

I use np one silkaflex ns sl two part and 3 part as well as polyurea two with the pump you could use mason trowels the same width just round them off to tool with no to see vids like this

Tool is a bakery spatula

Egg🥚cellent!

I need to do some tuck point on my chimney. What I'm concerned about is my brown metal roof when I go to do the Acid Wash and it gets on the metal roof. thoughts?

Get em OSHA where's the guard on the grinder?!?!?

What is the name of the primer and the caulks?

Dirty tools means rough Tradesman

No way this is tuck pointing ya cowboy , absolute rubbish

Unless that house is all faced with engineering bricks the mix is completely wrong, 2:1 or 3:1 for solid engineering bricks in manholes etc , facing bricks on a house 4:1 or 5:1