You could next time perhaps, talk us through the Primer for example, what product your using and why your using it. Same with the Caulk, while we know your Prepping your Breakfast...and about your airline issues, but nothing about the Caulk? So tell us about the Caulk nd which product your using any Why. Showing us using a caulk gun....kinda useless. Good Part...the tool u used to spread the caulk - that was nice work!
@@midwestbrickdoctor But many people never heard of a primer to use before caulking, so why is it even needed? And what about the caulking itself, does it get hard or is it like regular silicone and and stays rubbery?
I do these all the time where the expansion rots out in between the slab and the house. I have use a multitude of different things to fill the gap. what kind of call was that and what color does it dry
Out of all the vids I’ve seen know one has used a spatula or primed it after cleaning the area. This does look like a good video I wish the guy was more open to what he was using and why.
Find yourself the right SEO guy which I have found and am willing to share his info. I get most of my leads from my google business page. These days people look online for stuff they need.
I don't recommend caulking for interior. Water pressure will blow out the caulk. It's always best to fix it from the outside, if you can't; then look at epoxy injection from the inside.
7:42 “ i Dont Tah Care” 😭😂😂 Keep Being You! In Your Content. You Are Funny. A lot Of People Are Not. & Your Work, It Satisfies My Eyes. Brings My heart to Calm.
Thanks for posting this, you make it look so easy. I got a quote for caulking that was thousands of dollars. Now that I know how to do it I am going to try this myself. 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
I loved this, made me laugh😂 I grew up in Edison park/Park ridge but now live in Elmwood Park in an OLD bungalow that needs a ton of work! What type of sealant/caulk do i use for historic brick? The previous owners pointed with the wrong stuff so the old brick is starting to crack. Good to know you're local in case i need someone!
I usually use my utility blade but Iam frequently changing the blade as I go to make it easier on me. If you have foam try to cut it down a little below the concrete then caulk over it as that will be your foam backer so you’re not using a crazy amount of caulking. Make sure you use Np1 as other caulking won’t be as easy to tool
Buddy, this is a excellent video. What type of caulking is that? Is that a grout caulk ? Also what and where did you get that tool? What is that called?
I use np one silkaflex ns sl two part and 3 part as well as polyurea two with the pump you could use mason trowels the same width just round them off to tool with no to see vids like this
To be honest to too familiar with them. When u go to Home Depot you’ll see the price different I think the crappy one is “Alex”. Better ones are going to be 7$+a tube
I like to shove the used tube nose down back in the box. Doesn't roll around, keeps the new tubes standing up and you can see how many are left. One less thing to clean up. Takes up Less space in the truck and the you can still stack stuff on top of the box on the way back to the shop!!
You should be using backer rod because now you have a 3 sided bond with improper sealant profile. Not because you are wasting sealant. Every professional caulker knows you don’t prime the bottom of the joint because you don’t want it to bond. But it does look decent. Considering you are a brick mason and not a caulker nice job. Because you didn’t use backer rod , or bond breaker tape, it will fail prematurely though. It’s kind of the basics of caulking. Absolutely no 3 sided bond in these types of joints.Not saying it is terrible but has some major flaws n the very basics of caulking. Your actual knowledge of sealant is lacking but you shooting an tooling skills are pretty good. Just for context I have installed conservatively over 100 miles of sealant n my life. And many times we have to manufactures reps inspecting our work. Including removing random samples. Checking for proper joint profiles and proper adhesion and 2 sided bond. This would fail all,of the tests. We routinely use $10000 of sealant n one project. Not meant to slam you. Quite the opposite I see some talent and hope you research proper joint design and function so you become a top rate caulker.
I'm a DIY'er and appreciate the comment. I don't understand the 3 sided bond. Vertical Brick, Horizonal Concrete = 2 sides, 2 materials. I also don't understand not bonding the bottom. Is that to let it weep ? Won't water backflow into the crack if the existing concrete isn't slopped correctly (which most old ones are not). At this point, I'm not even sure why you would caulk it besides to keep debris out and/or aesthetics.
@@mondavou9408 vertical brick and actually vertical wall of the horizontal concrete is 2 sided. Bonding to the bottom is 3 sided. There is always a joint between the structure and a slab ( or at least there should be) to allow for expansion and contraction. The sealant should be bonded to the brick and the edge of the concrete and free to stretch between the 2. Both surfaces will move due to thermal cycling. The purpose of using sealant( caulk) is to allow for this movement. If it is bonded to the bottom it can’t stretch and will pull free from either the brick, the concrete or both. The reason for caulking this joint is water runs off of the edge of the slab into the joint. And water runs down the wall into the joint. Thats a lot of water concentrated in one spot that you don’t want against your foundation walls. Not to mention the real possibility of leaks if you have a basement. Then there is the chance of all that water running into the joint causing erosion and settling/cracking of the slab over time. It is always a good idea to keep as much water as possible away from your house. Ground water can get into the joint from under the slab but it will be very minimal compared to rainwater running into the joint.The correct profile for sealant is “) (“. Where the top and bottom of the illustration are the 2 sides of the joint. ( picture it sideways) The 2 sides are thicker for more bonding surface and it’s thinner in the middle so it can stretch more easily. That is the reason you must use backer rod it gives the proper rounded profile and prevents a 3 sided bond.
@@genecarden780 Thank you for the explanation. I get the two sides now. It makes sense. With the two vertical surfaces bonded, there is no place for the water to go and there is no need to have the horizonal surface involved. The third surface, it just interferes with the flex and stretch. Three IS a crowd. Cheers.
@@genecarden780 Somehow, I understand what you're saying! I don't know anything about caulking but need this done on our back of our brick house where it meets the patio. Thanks!
I worked for a few different “ top gun “ level caulking companies back in the 90s and up until about 2015 . Caulking is actually part of the bricklayers union here in Woke broken NY but it really shouldn’t be ( completely different skill trade) This May not be what Anyone selling caulking materials or jobs wants to hear But Many times Caulking is Just Wrong. Sidewalks are Much better off with the proper expansion materials wherever it’s needed and NOT CAULKED!! Many times I’ve seen sidewalks get caulked every 4 feet before the concrete is even cured ( still almost green) and it’s just wrong and unnecessary and a waste of time and money No matter How pretty anyone can knife! I see Completely Failed Caulking All over the place here Mostly Sidewalks and Joints in between concrete and the building like this kid is caulking Caulking between Sidewalks and the front of concrete block buildings That Should be Just Expansion Material and the caulking usually just fails and literally blows out of the joints. I’ve seen Entire buildings here in Woke Broken NY that should be mortar or grout joints but the arrogant incompetent No Standards liberals who run NY Think that it’s OK to just say Fuck it and Caulk everything Entire 40 stories buildings that should be grout joints but have been cut out and caulked over and over again For DECADES!!America is a No Standards No Merit Absolute Shit Show when it comes to the masonry trade compared to So many other countries A little caulk and paint will make it what it Aint is all USA all day. Anyway, this kid seemed like he was actually Chest thumping and Sorta bragging about that little job . When I worked every day with the Real Caulkers Any one of Us Would have had that caulked and knifed to perfection ( or really close) in a fraction of the time that this kid took ( No offense) That’s also weird thing to be caulking and it’s Wrong to Seal it all up just to make it look a little better It looks like it’s been sealed before with some kind of mastic or whatever and The top guns I knew would rarely ever use Primer before caulking even though they Sell that shit by the truckload Real caulkers know better than to waste time Priming.Like the Caulking isn’t sticky enough? Just get the joints clean and maybe hit them lightly with a little clean solvent ( toulene) I’ve seen entire cases of expensive unnecessary primer wind up in the dumpster many times. We used to mix our own caulking Bulk Compound Activator Coloring etc That little tube one part caulking is really expensive and not anywhere near as good as the NP2 or Pecora 1 1/2 gallon cans Id Draw up a gun load in my big old bulk gun and Run that unnecessary caulking and knife it way prettier than that mess in less time than that kid was brushing on unnecessary primer with that Way too big Dumb brush
You make it looks so easy, I will try to do it myself. Thanks for sharing.
its not beautiful he is just a kid dont know whats he doing this is awful job u can just toe like that
You could next time perhaps, talk us through the Primer for example, what product your using and why your using it. Same with the Caulk, while we know your Prepping your Breakfast...and about your airline issues, but nothing about the Caulk? So tell us about the Caulk nd which product your using any Why. Showing us using a caulk gun....kinda useless. Good Part...the tool u used to spread the caulk - that was nice work!
Ikr. Would have been nice to know
I guess he’s using the master seal P 173 primer first
@kode784productions9 yes
@@midwestbrickdoctor But many people never heard of a primer to use before caulking, so why is it even needed? And what about the caulking itself, does it get hard or is it like regular silicone and and stays rubbery?
@@midwestbrickdoctor
I been caulking for ,30 yrs,that looks pretty good
Nice job! Caulking looks really nice.
what up Matt, did u change yur profile pic?
Thanks!
I do these all the time where the expansion rots out in between the slab and the house. I have use a multitude of different things to fill the gap. what kind of call was that and what color does it dry
I used master seal NP1 and it dries "Medium Bronze"
is it necesay to caulk between the edge of the house? wouldnt water drain away from the house regardless?
You always try to tool your best like it was a pressed in gasket but sometimes it better sealed then being pretty great vid bro
Out of all the vids I’ve seen know one has used a spatula or primed it after cleaning the area. This does look like a good video I wish the guy was more open to what he was using and why.
Good job! What do you recommend on how to to get repair work? Other than business cards and signs
Find yourself the right SEO guy which I have found and am willing to share his info. I get most of my leads from my google business page. These days people look online for stuff they need.
Will this work for the interior side of the basement footings for small areas to keep water out. What products did you use
I don't recommend caulking for interior. Water pressure will blow out the caulk. It's always best to fix it from the outside, if you can't; then look at epoxy injection from the inside.
@@Highdensity89and water can sit there for a while 2 which can give more problems.. It's best to do from outside yes
This was more to keep roadents out
Thanks for the video. If I have a previous caulking I need to remove, how do I do that?
I personally do it with a nice utility nice. You’ll have to replace the blade frequently in order to do it easily otherwise you’ll be fighting it
7:42 “ i Dont Tah Care” 😭😂😂 Keep Being You! In Your Content. You Are Funny. A lot Of People Are Not. & Your Work, It Satisfies My Eyes. Brings My heart to Calm.
Thanks for posting this, you make it look so easy. I got a quote for caulking that was thousands of dollars. Now that I know how to do it I am going to try this myself. 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Where did you find that caulk spreading tool and what kind of primer is that?
It looks like a regular cake frosting spatula to me 😂
How much do you charge for a job like that?
is that thermoplastic caulking?
Dude very nice work that is super clean job and very fast 🤘😎🤘
Great work. Is it self leveling clauk?
@@kashifrana6798 no it’s NP1 masterseal
I loved this, made me laugh😂
I grew up in Edison park/Park ridge but now live in Elmwood Park in an OLD bungalow that needs a ton of work! What type of sealant/caulk do i use for historic brick?
The previous owners pointed with the wrong stuff so the old brick is starting to crack.
Good to know you're local in case i need someone!
Use NP1 sealant and primer from brickworx supply in des plaines
Thanks for the video! This is basically ASMR lol
Glad you enjoyed it!
Can you use that primer with fire caulk so it can bond with the cmu wall?
@@JoseMartinez-ss1pm yes
@midwestbrickdoctor6670 can you tell me the name and brand of primer that you used
@@JoseMartinez-ss1pm masterseal p176
@@midwestbrickdoctor thank you very much sir
Thank you for a great video!
Beautiful Work!!!! Where are the empty tubes going????
Thanks. Empty ones are garbage!
Do your thing. You showed him. 🎉
jerry is always in the corner playing with his caulk probably
😭😭😭
Great video! How did you remove the existing caulking? We have that awful yellow spray foam where our red brick meets the concrete. :( Thanks!
I usually use my utility blade but Iam frequently changing the blade as I go to make it easier on me. If you have foam try to cut it down a little below the concrete then caulk over it as that will be your foam backer so you’re not using a crazy amount of caulking. Make sure you use Np1 as other caulking won’t be as easy to tool
9:55 Like Lil Hershey Kisses 😂😂😂😭
That is nice and you do got to use the tip.
What was the primer you used?
nice video! what size Caulk Spatula did you use or recommend?
2 inch spatula I believe. They have caulking tools on Amazon I’m sure they come in all different sizes depending on what you need
@@midwestbrickdoctor thanks i purchased the 1-1/4' tool so hopefully that will do
Can you tell us what kind of primer & what kind of caulk you use here?
NP1 master seal caulk
NP1 primer
Can we use master seal NP1 repair a 1/2" concrete siding crack?
@@ANe-ut5rl yes
Buddy, this is a excellent video. What type of caulking is that? Is that a grout caulk ? Also what and where did you get that tool? What is that called?
Np1 masterseal. NP1 always makes the primer also. You should be able to find a “caulking tool on Amazon”
Its a bakery spatula
I use np one silkaflex ns sl two part and 3 part as well as polyurea two with the pump you could use mason trowels the same width just round them off to tool with no to see vids like this
Thx..st Louis Missouri. On my list now .
I used this on my driveway 2 nights ago and it’s so thick I couldn’t tool it. It’s really really thick and sticky.
Would that work in a basement where the wall meets the floor?
Can you tell me what type of primer did you use?
NP1 masterseal primer
You the you the best.
Egg🥚cellent!
What type of caulk is that??
NP1 Masterseal
What finishing tool is that
@@mikegarcia2308 2” spatula I believe
What is the name of the primer and the caulks?
NP1 Primer
NP1 caulk
Which market are you in ? Chicago?
Yes
Good job
How much do you charge for this
950$. Material was about 200$. Job took 1-2 hrs
@@midwestbrickdoctor that’s crazy price dude
Is the primer necessary?
Yes
What was that primer?
NP1 primer
yo! whats that primer you used before laying down the np1?
It’s also a primer by NP1
@@midwestbrickdoctor thanks bro, I appreciate the response im from Chicago, subscribed to your channel to show support 🙌
Will it stop water?
Yes
Won't this shrink and be a mess in a few years?
Can I do this on my window? I seem to be getting water
Yes but I wouldn’t use that caulking. I’d go to Home Depot and find the best window caulking. Don’t get the cheap stuff.
@@midwestbrickdoctor can you recommend one?
To be honest to too familiar with them. When u go to Home Depot you’ll see the price different I think the crappy one is “Alex”. Better ones are going to be 7$+a tube
@@midwestbrickdoctor ok, thanks
I'm having the same problem at my house it's the same way as a video what kind of primer and what kind of cocking is that
Great job !
I like to shove the used tube nose down back in the box. Doesn't roll around, keeps the new tubes standing up and you can see how many are left. One less thing to clean up. Takes up Less space in the truck and the you can still stack stuff on top of the box on the way back to the shop!!
Niiiice
It sounds like Jerry loves the caulk!…. Lol
You should be using backer rod because now you have a 3 sided bond with improper sealant profile. Not because you are wasting sealant. Every professional caulker knows you don’t prime the bottom of the joint because you don’t want it to bond. But it does look decent. Considering you are a brick mason and not a caulker nice job.
Because you didn’t use backer rod , or bond breaker tape, it will fail prematurely though. It’s kind of the basics of caulking. Absolutely no 3 sided bond in these types of joints.Not saying it is terrible but has some major flaws n the very basics of caulking. Your actual knowledge of sealant is lacking but you shooting an tooling skills are pretty good.
Just for context I have installed conservatively over 100 miles of sealant n my life.
And many times we have to manufactures reps inspecting our work. Including removing random samples. Checking for proper joint profiles and proper adhesion and 2 sided bond.
This would fail all,of the tests. We routinely use $10000 of sealant n one project. Not meant to slam you. Quite the opposite I see some talent and hope you research proper joint design and function so you become a top rate caulker.
BOOM! The mic hits the floor in silence.
I'm a DIY'er and appreciate the comment. I don't understand the 3 sided bond. Vertical Brick, Horizonal Concrete = 2 sides, 2 materials. I also don't understand not bonding the bottom. Is that to let it weep ? Won't water backflow into the crack if the existing concrete isn't slopped correctly (which most old ones are not). At this point, I'm not even sure why you would caulk it besides to keep debris out and/or aesthetics.
@@mondavou9408 vertical brick and actually vertical wall of the horizontal concrete is 2 sided. Bonding to the bottom is 3 sided. There is always a joint between the structure and a slab ( or at least there should be) to allow for expansion and contraction. The sealant should be bonded to the brick and the edge of the concrete and free to stretch between the 2. Both surfaces will move due to thermal cycling. The purpose of using sealant( caulk) is to allow for this movement. If it is bonded to the bottom it can’t stretch and will pull free from either the brick, the concrete or both. The reason for caulking this joint is water runs off of the edge of the slab into the joint. And water runs down the wall into the joint. Thats a lot of water concentrated in one spot that you don’t want against your foundation walls. Not to mention the real possibility of leaks if you have a basement. Then there is the chance of all that water running into the joint causing erosion and settling/cracking of the slab over time. It is always a good idea to keep as much water as possible away from your house. Ground water can get into the joint from under the slab but it will be very minimal compared to rainwater running into the joint.The correct profile for sealant is “) (“. Where the top and bottom of the illustration are the 2 sides of the joint. ( picture it sideways) The 2 sides are thicker for more bonding surface and it’s thinner in the middle so it can stretch more easily. That is the reason you must use backer rod it gives the proper rounded profile and prevents a 3 sided bond.
@@genecarden780 Thank you for the explanation. I get the two sides now. It makes sense. With the two vertical surfaces bonded, there is no place for the water to go and there is no need to have the horizonal surface involved. The third surface, it just interferes with the flex and stretch. Three IS a crowd. Cheers.
@@genecarden780 Somehow, I understand what you're saying! I don't know anything about caulking but need this done on our back of our brick house where it meets the patio. Thanks!
The puns we are all thinking
Tool is a bakery spatula
$1600?
I see these videos but hardly anyone using a battery operated caulking gun.. We use it and it's that much faster
my caulk isnt that thick , daym boy your caulk is pretty thick
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Knee pads bro 😂
Get yourself a battery powered caulk gun. 😅
@@alexouretski115 you got weak forearms
@@midwestbrickdoctor lol😅
Good job no did respect just get to the point
Hope your not tooling like that anymore 😂
No reason to overapply the caulk like that. Looks sloppy.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@Midwest Brick Doctor . The exact response I was expecting. I'm not kidding, I would be fucking pissed if you did this at my house.
Considering there’s going to be snow and ice sitting in that corner 5 months a year more is better in my book.
I worked for a few different “ top gun “ level caulking companies back in the 90s and up until about 2015 . Caulking is actually part of the bricklayers union here in Woke broken NY but it really shouldn’t be ( completely different skill trade) This May not be what Anyone selling caulking materials or jobs wants to hear But Many times Caulking is Just Wrong. Sidewalks are Much better off with the proper expansion materials wherever it’s needed and NOT CAULKED!! Many times I’ve seen sidewalks get caulked every 4 feet before the concrete is even cured ( still almost green) and it’s just wrong and unnecessary and a waste of time and money No matter How pretty anyone can knife! I see Completely Failed Caulking All over the place here Mostly Sidewalks and Joints in between concrete and the building like this kid is caulking Caulking between Sidewalks and the front of concrete block buildings That Should be Just Expansion Material and the caulking usually just fails and literally blows out of the joints. I’ve seen Entire buildings here in Woke Broken NY that should be mortar or grout joints but the arrogant incompetent No Standards liberals who run NY Think that it’s OK to just say Fuck it and Caulk everything Entire 40 stories buildings that should be grout joints but have been cut out and caulked over and over again For DECADES!!America is a No Standards No Merit Absolute Shit Show when it comes to the masonry trade compared to So many other countries A little caulk and paint will make it what it Aint is all USA all day. Anyway, this kid seemed like he was actually Chest thumping and Sorta bragging about that little job . When I worked every day with the Real Caulkers Any one of Us Would have had that caulked and knifed to perfection ( or really close) in a fraction of the time that this kid took ( No offense) That’s also weird thing to be caulking and it’s Wrong to Seal it all up just to make it look a little better It looks like it’s been sealed before with some kind of mastic or whatever and The top guns I knew would rarely ever use Primer before caulking even though they Sell that shit by the truckload Real caulkers know better than to waste time Priming.Like the Caulking isn’t sticky enough? Just get the joints clean and maybe hit them lightly with a little clean solvent ( toulene) I’ve seen entire cases of expensive unnecessary primer wind up in the dumpster many times. We used to mix our own caulking Bulk Compound Activator Coloring etc That little tube one part caulking is really expensive and not anywhere near as good as the NP2 or Pecora 1 1/2 gallon cans Id Draw up a gun load in my big old bulk gun and Run that unnecessary caulking and knife it way prettier than that mess in less time than that kid was brushing on unnecessary primer with that Way too big Dumb brush
Next time use bulk can and 31 ounce Albion chinking sealant gun unless this was the only material available master seal good stuff