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Thank you! I'm glad you are enjoying videos.

Thank you!

Thanks! I'm happy with the result!

Hi! The core I built is based on models by another artist, so I won't sell them. But, it looks like the original artist does offer printed parts for sale, including all the parts you need to light it! I didn't realize this when I recorded the video, otherwise I would have mentioned it. Here is a link to the artist's store page: www.etsy.com/shop/warpspeed3dprinting/?etsrc=sdt I case the link doesn't work, you should be able to find it by searching for WarpSpeed3DPrinting, and the shop owner's name is Jason Anderson.

Yes, that's a good point. I like my finished result, even if it's a bit jiggly.

Thanks!

I seriously considered designing replacement nacelles, but I talked myself out of it.

@@mistakeman 🙂

I love the work you’re doing on this! Top notch. I’m guessing you didn’t think about lightly dry brushing the copper onto the raised edges of the nacelle chillers?

​@@davidf9257 :facepalm: I don't know why I didn't think of that! That would definitely be the way to go with the grills I printed.

Thank you very much!

@@brianburgess7733 Thanks! An arduino or similar would be a great way to go, and was suggested by the original designer. For this project, I wanted to try building the circuit myself with counter chips and such. It was educational and enjoyable for me. Smoothing out the pulse would look great, but I wanted to mimic the on-screen effect, and I think I got really close.

Thank you! It was a fun challenge and I am pleased with the result.

The model could definitely be converted into a diorama of the engineering set. It's not really what I wanted here, but that would be cool. Especially with some figures of Geordi and Data.

That's a cool idea. You should go for it!

@@Iskelderon Thank you! The swirling effect would be very tricky. LED fireplaces use an analog effect to mimic fire, and something similar could work for warp plasma. Big Clive on TH-cam has some teardown videos of LED fireplaces that show how they work.

Thank you!

It's a great model. Have fun!

That could help if you want to use the original artist's lighting design.

EL wire is really cool. I considered using it here, but what I saw was probably too dim for what I wanted.

Thank you!

I had a similar thought. The lights jump at that point.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you! The El wire I've seen is probably too dim for what I wanted here. I also looked at some flexible LED filaments when I was brainstorming. The main challenges were finding the right color (ice blue or at least cool white that I could tint blue) and finding a length that would work. You can't cut the filament to the desired size, so you have to use what you're given. The filament diameter is also a bit large for this scale. If you scaled up the model, you might find a sweet spot where the filament length and diameter both work. Thanks for watching!

@@mistakeman aaah, yes, I should have known you already investigated those options. Looking forward to your next project.

*WARNING BEEP* Computer voice: "Warp core ejection system is offline."

Thank you!

Thank you! You can scale down the STL files before you print them, but you can't really scale down the LED strips. So you would need to figure out another way to light it.

Thank you! If anyone else wants to build one of these, what you've described is definitely the easier way to go. For me, I really enjoyed designing and building the board. Not everyone is into that, so I appreciate the comment.

Wow, sounds awesome!

Thank you!

Where this design is based on another artist's work, I don't feel comfortable publicly distributing the files. But if you're interested in the resin-printable versions, send me an email and we can figure something out. (You can find my email in the About info on my channel.)

Thank you!

Thank you, and welcome!

I seriously considered adding the sound effect, but I wouldn't be satisfied with the sound quality from a speaker small enough to fit inside the model. The sound is a bass-heavy thrum that really needs a subwoofer to do it justice.

The top manifold is already speaker shaped. Perfect for a sub. Even without any speakers, I can still hear it when I look at it. Very cool either way!

@@PugFury Haha, true!

Thank you! It's not bright enough to light a room for normal use, but it could provide some cool ambience to a dark room.

Thank you! Yeah, the skip over the black ring bothers me, too. I considered adding in the skipped 6th segment, but the decade counter chip has 10 outputs, just enough to drive the 10 pairs of lighted coil segments. Adding in the skip would have complicated the circuitry more than I was willing to do, so I accepted this compromise. No worries about the nitpick, I appreciate the comment.

​@@mistakeman the limit of outputs makes sense :) you could in theory add a second astable 555 that is triggered by the 4017 to pause the first 555 for half a second, but that would, as you said complicate the circuit further :) again... Great work on this project, the quality you get with resin printing really benefits the overal quality of the model. Maybe I should try this on my FDM

Thank you! I've updated the video description to add links for most of the components I used. Others I didn't provide links for because I had them on hand already, but they are not hard to find. If you want to find them, you can search for "cool white 5V COB LED strip", "NE555 timer chip", "ULN2003 or ULN2803" for the darlington transistor array chips (7- or 8-channel, respectively, either will do).

Thank you! I've heard others recommend the Dymo tape. I'll have to try it out.

Unfortunately, this model requires zero g to float.

Thank you!

Thank you, I appreciate it!

I will watch out for that, thank you. The photoetch set I have includes a replacement for the hanger door and surrounding bulkhead, so we will see if it fits any better.

Thank you!

Thank you, Steve. Ian's work is incredibly inspiring.

@@mistakeman not just Ian’s but yours as well with the love and effort you’re putting into your build, truly inspirational.

Can't wait for that coat of primer, showing that you indeed did an excellent job with your work. Very much looking forward to your next video.

The coat of primer would have been the perfect ending for this video. Unfortunately, I just wasn't quite ready for it. It will be in the next video for sure. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thank you. That's quite funny that you mention the debonder. I actually bought some recently to try it out, but it completely slipped my mind! I've never used it either, but this would have been the perfect opportunity to try. Oh well, I'll try to remember it next time.

@@mistakeman Looking at your result, I'd say it worked like a charm. I figure part of modeling is knowing what you're doing. And a big part of my progress always is doing it, sort of like not knowing that I don't know how to, figuring it out on the way and thus getting it done, surprising myself.

Acetone can be used for superglue...but it will also melt plastic so extreme care needed!

It was about 25 years ago that I bought this kit. It's wild how much these old kits can go for, now that they are hard to find.

Every time I visit his Voyager build log, it saddens me to know we will never get to see his final vision for this kit. Anyway, thanks for the feedback and the encouragement!