I Built a Miniature Warp Core
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2024
- I'm building a model of the warp core from the engineering set of Star Trek: The Next Generation, with animated lighting effects.
The model is 3D printed in resin by me, and based on a design by an artist named CrazyJ. The model by CrazyJ was freely available on Thingiverse, under the name "Warp Core v2".
I did my own custom lighting scheme different from the artist's original design. The model also has a custom paint job and custom decals.
Here are some links to some of the supplies I used:
Push button switch:
www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWRGWSZ?...
Female USB-A plug:
www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRQ2F12V?...
Red COB LED strip, 5V:
www.amazon.com/dp/B0CMCN9Z2K?...
Ice blue COB LED strip, 5V:
www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXWRTNBL?...
CD4017 decade counter chip:
www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAGD10Y?...
Decal paper:
www.amazon.com/dp/B077TMFVL9?...
The other electronic components I had on hand from past projects. - บันเทิง
Really really cool! I have only one small comment about the blue bands, the transition from the first stack to the second is a little to abrupt. When the "pulse" goes through the dividing black ring, there should be a slight pause, or a dummy 6th LED to bridge that gap. I'm well aware I'm nitpicking here... Again it's a phenomenal build, the aluminium tape was a smart solution for getting those two bands per ring in there!
Thank you! Yeah, the skip over the black ring bothers me, too. I considered adding in the skipped 6th segment, but the decade counter chip has 10 outputs, just enough to drive the 10 pairs of lighted coil segments. Adding in the skip would have complicated the circuitry more than I was willing to do, so I accepted this compromise.
No worries about the nitpick, I appreciate the comment.
@@mistakeman the limit of outputs makes sense :) you could in theory add a second astable 555 that is triggered by the 4017 to pause the first 555 for half a second, but that would, as you said complicate the circuit further :) again... Great work on this project, the quality you get with resin printing really benefits the overal quality of the model. Maybe I should try this on my FDM
Now you just need a little speaker that has the low heartbeat sound of the core. The perfect nightlight/white-noise machine.
I seriously considered adding the sound effect, but I wouldn't be satisfied with the sound quality from a speaker small enough to fit inside the model. The sound is a bass-heavy thrum that really needs a subwoofer to do it justice.
The top manifold is already speaker shaped. Perfect for a sub. Even without any speakers, I can still hear it when I look at it. Very cool either way!
@@PugFury Haha, true!
Really cool, nice work!
Thank you!
That's really cool
Thank you!
that is a really beautiful build! If it could be scaled down a little bit, it would make a cool centerpiece for a book nook
Thank you! You can scale down the STL files before you print them, but you can't really scale down the LED strips. So you would need to figure out another way to light it.
Very nice
Thank you!
Nice work, it’s looking great 👍 the lighting effect looks really nice.
Thank you!
You've done an excellent job on this build and the changes you've added to the design really does make it look like the onscreen version. I look forward to seeing what you will build next.
Thank you!
pack the voids around the LED's with cotton wool it helps difuse the light
That could help if you want to use the original artist's lighting design.
Well done!!! Do you have links of where you got all your lighting?
Thank you! I've updated the video description to add links for most of the components I used. Others I didn't provide links for because I had them on hand already, but they are not hard to find. If you want to find them, you can search for "cool white 5V COB LED strip", "NE555 timer chip", "ULN2003 or ULN2803" for the darlington transistor array chips (7- or 8-channel, respectively, either will do).
That looks incredible! I don't know how bright it is, but I could see using it as an actual lamp, not jist a display piece.
Thank you! It's not bright enough to light a room for normal use, but it could provide some cool ambience to a dark room.
A $5 Seeeduino Xia SAMD21 would run your LEDs and is the size of a postage stamp. Waaaay easier to program with the FastLED library than your DIY circuitboard.
Of course if that DIY board was fun for you then more power to ya.
Instead of masking off the rings, why not mask off the LED strip itself? A black sharpie and your straight edge oughta do it.
The final result does look good, though. So how you did it probably doesn't matter too much :) Other than perhaps offering alternative ideas to other people who wanna try the same project.
Thank you! If anyone else wants to build one of these, what you've described is definitely the easier way to go. For me, I really enjoyed designing and building the board. Not everyone is into that, so I appreciate the comment.
You should try and insert a 'pause' at the point where the separation of the two clear parts is. As the timing is a bit odd at that point.
I had a similar thought. The lights jump at that point.
That is really awesome... but.. you should have a blank spot in the timer. Where a light would be visible but is behind the top and bottom sections mid ring. The skip across is jarring.
It really needs an optional sound effect (zwoop-zwoop) and a way to speed up the warp chamber at random intervals because you don't know what those crazy people on the bridge are going to do..
Beautify,
Thank you!
Nice work! Subbed.
Thank you, and welcome!
Excellent work, my compliments. Perhaps EL-wire or LED filaments would come closer to replicate the lighting, in case you want to try more iterations.
Thank you! The El wire I've seen is probably too dim for what I wanted here. I also looked at some flexible LED filaments when I was brainstorming. The main challenges were finding the right color (ice blue or at least cool white that I could tint blue) and finding a length that would work. You can't cut the filament to the desired size, so you have to use what you're given. The filament diameter is also a bit large for this scale.
If you scaled up the model, you might find a sweet spot where the filament length and diameter both work.
Thanks for watching!
@@mistakeman aaah, yes, I should have known you already investigated those options. Looking forward to your next project.
You should check out EL wires for your lights, would be smoother and you don't have individual LEDs so no not spots.
EL wire is really cool. I considered using it here, but what I saw was probably too dim for what I wanted.
Now that you built this. Can we eject it before warp core overloads?
*WARNING BEEP*
Computer voice: "Warp core ejection system is offline."
I made one that is about 4 feet tall. and right now its red white and blue.
Wow, sounds awesome!
Are you planning to upload your remixed files?
Where this design is based on another artist's work, I don't feel comfortable publicly distributing the files. But if you're interested in the resin-printable versions, send me an email and we can figure something out. (You can find my email in the About info on my channel.)
does it float? xD
Unfortunately, this model requires zero g to float.