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I’ve always preferred the 14” depth and you’ve surely proved it here. 👍

Convinced !!!! Nice !!!!!

No. What does matter is practice.

Xin chào , tôi rất mê , có thể cho tôi biét giá bao nhiêu và mua ở đâu ko

Well duh, the bigger drums are louder. 😂

My 1989 USA Custom square Badge Gretsch kit has tons of sustain. 6 ply maple gum shells. Sometimes it is hard to tame them even with gels, etc. I love them and they still sound amazing. Great video!

Glock, paper, scissors. Now, thats funny

My first kit has a 16x22 then I got a 18x22 and now I play a 16x24 which I love, but I just got a live kit to gig with and it has a 14x24. I have never had a 14 depth so I'm curious as to how I'm going to like. I don't remember being inspired by the 18 or 16 by 22 at all, but this 16x24 definitely inspires me. I hope the 14x24 will also.

BOTTOMLINE IS.. NOONE TALKS ABOUT IS.. YOUR SNARE WILL SOUND COMPLETLY DIFFERENT IN EVERY PLACE YOU GOTO PLAY

I learned this through Cardinal Percussion who acquired Wuhan Cymbals and Gongs... Very interesting 🤔

Steel is elastic that's why they use steel inside foundations and pillars and beams. it must have some property of elasticity, otherwise it would break.

Joel, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us!!

I'm digging Attack Thinskin 2 Coated Heads, Proflex 1 Clears for Toms, Attack Baron Snare Red Dot Snare Head with Attack Medium Snareside Head and Pure Sound Wires... Attack 22" Orbit 2 Bass Batter Head... ✝️👍🤙✌️

Took your advice on tuning my Bass Drum... Very informative video

The surprise is how the bigger one makes the snare sound boxy. I was already a fan of 14" kick depth, in fact I use a 26, but I never expected the snare to sound so different.

Sincerely, Joel I love the fact you have dialed into the 12 strand snare wires due to the low mass and your style. I aspire to have that depth of self knowledge. Love the channel and analysis. Enjoyed the physics lesson w/Sonor docs as well.

Ultimately if you're taking it out on a gig, the shallower depth is going to work better on a tight stage. If you only own one kit, 14 or even 12 might be the right call. For recording or backline stuff, the world is your oyster!

That is one badass T-shirt!

Build quality makes a huge difference. Super-flexy lugs and tom mounts, chintzy snare strainers, cheap heads, unlubricated tension rods, unlubricated lug screws, sharp metal edges, metal burrs, rough bearing edges.... I'm totally okay with less expensive woods or slightly fewer lugs, but I sure don't want to have to swap out lugs or hoops. Even name brand entry-level kits do this sometimes. Cheap Ludwig lugs are still just cheap lugs. Older entry-level gear is generally better than newer entry-level gear; top-of-the-line stuff today is usually higher quality than older flagship gear.

Here's the thing: these things can be measured. Debating or arguing about them should be replaced by measurement. Mic different areas around a drum and measure signal levels. The slower the decay, the less energy loss. Ultimately this is what distinguishes science from rumor and hearsay. Another way to do the measurement is with a laser microphone: these are somewhat inexpensive. Shine the laser on various parts of the drum and measure the amplitude of the vibration. Probably a little more accurate than an SM57. You might even be able to use a high-speed camera to capture video.

Wall thickness affects the rigidity of a shell: you can have a very lightweight and rigid shell made of thick, less dense material. You see this principle a lot with metal tubing: thin walls+large diameter is often lighter and more rigid than thick walls+small diameter. Materials also do not flex equally in all directions. Ultimately, if you're trying to transfer sound energy from your stick to the drumheads, you want as little shell flex as possible. How you achieve that is up to the designer. It is _way_ easier to achieve low flex with denser materials, though. There are some exceptions to this: if you can match the vibrational modes of the drumhead to the shell, then the entire _system_ resonates. But this is more frequency-dependent than stiffer shells, where energy transfer is only between the two heads. Another example of a lightweight, yet stiff material is carbon fiber. It's essentially a space-age plywood: you can orient fibers in any direction you want to get the desired rigidity characteristics. So... carbon fiber drums could in theory give you the same energy loss as thick, dense wood, but with significantly lower mass. But all of that design work is expensive and repairability and availability are concerns.

Something interesting to try would be adding a bit of pressure-sensitive resistor material under hoops so you can measure the pressure differences of the hoops.

As the price on these creeps up, I wonder if you could get an INDe used for a similar price. They're fantastic-sounding, and a muffler would be easy to retrofit. Pearl makes a dial-style external muffler that doesn't require drilling.

I really liked the 60s Acro. Lots of ring, which you could muffle out if need. Can't unmuffle ring that isn't there to begin with.

As Acrolite prices start to creep up ($200 seems to be the going rate now), are there some alternative aluminum drums that might be better budget options?

An Acrolite is probably my next snare: still pretty cheap, lightweight, internal muffler, versatile.

Having owned one of the maple INDe snares, it was lightweight and resonant. Super-great drum, so imagine the bronze would be great, too.

I'd love to see a WTS tuning setup on one of the INDe snares. Would let you switch tunings really easily.

I have 10 snares. 60 years of Gigs. My ACRO is always my first choice. Rogers DynaSonic doesn’t have the punch. My Bassplayers love it too.

My favorite was the 1970 model. It just had the best over all sound to me. The 90's one seemed the closest to that one.

Just to add. Speakers share the same concept. Enclosures (shells) should not vibrate when the cone (heads) move. In speakers, you effectively cancel out the vibrations of the cone cause the enclosure will counter (oppose) the direction of the movement of the cone. Specially for sealed enclosures. If the enclosure is weak, as the cone pushes out, the enclosure walls suck in. That's why a subwoofer without a box is like a fish out of water. The push motion that should produce sound is cancelled by the pull motion happening behind the cone. Diminished sound pressure levels.

Aquarian SKII bass+Evan’s for G2 frosted Tom’s+Remo CS snare = 💯 Rock and Roll Perfection

Hey there! Nice videos :-) I definitely 14" kicks. I like to put a structure like the one behind you in my home studio, where I can store all the drums. WHERE CAN I GET ONE? THANKS

It’s almost like it was an excuse to charge you for more drum and really didn’t accomplish anything musical. Another really counterproductive thing I see constantly is drummers getting anal retentive about getting the most intensive resonant mount system that barely touches the shell, just to put pinstripes on em. At that point just drill directly into the shell. If it was good enough for Tony, Elvin, and Bonham, it’s good enough for you.

je déteste les grosses caisses profondes, tant sur le plan esthétique que sonore, c est la tendance , j ai une 22x16 , je préfère mais le jour où j aurai les moyens de changer de kit , je trouve une 24x14

I've got a 5" Limited Edition Acro with brushed lugs and hoops (i.e. not shiny) that I picked up new several years ago. It is one of my favorite snare drums. Nothing else sounds like it.

Medium tuning no muffling sounds like Alex Van Halen 👍

Tantastic, many thanks!

What the hell get that crappy finish, and those stupid Tama lugs off that thing! It’s just a shell just a shell and the throw off. That are Rogers and that ugly finish that ugly finish put on there you should strip that and have it re-chrome bring it back to his original glory just saying.

“A couple inches makes all the difference” amirite? 😂

I'll also say that I made it to the end. A very great experiment. Personally, I think I prefer the 18". To me, it sounds like it has more sustain, which I enjoy. I have a 20x14" Pearl Masters MX 6 ply maple bass drum, which I find works very well for both jazz and rock, depending on how I tune and muffle it. Usually I use no very minimal muffling. I find that it has a nice ring and sustain which I like. I find that a lot of modern bass drum sounds seem to be very dead and short. I prefer a little bit of ring and sustain.

Thanks for the comparison in kick depths, very cool! I guess I am somewhere in between with my 2 Ludwig 16"x24" Power Kicks. And yes, I'll enjoy my extra set of spurs, too!

My guess is that if you increase the circumference they’re a point at which the depth could need to be increased in order to align with the « circumference to depth » ratio. I would hypothesize that different shell composition may effect the « best » ratio. But these subtle differences wouldn’t outweigh the benefit for drummers as a group to align with standard sizes used today. In terms of cost vs benefit. Interesting concept for custom drums though like OP did. Take the largest standard circumference and find the perfect depth for a balanced sound.

You're speaking my language, man! I've been preaching this for years, especially when metal drummers ask me to build 22" kicks that are 20" deep and mount triggers, because I could instead just make them a 24" kick that's 10" deep, and they won't need triggers, because the drum will already sound like they want it to! Anyway, great video, man!

I just went from 22x18 to 22x14 and the low end is a lot more controlled and I get a lot more punch that I felt like I was missing from having a 22x18 kick drum. When I do my own recordings with my band, I would use a kick sample to help reinforce the attack and punch that I was missing. Now I feel like I don't need to heavily use it. I went from using the SJC Navigator kit, which is all maple, to Tama Starclassic Walnut/Birch.

i like the tone of the 18 inch, but the tightness and punch of the 14 inch. Sounds like the 18 inch is a half step lower. I'm always trying to find a way to get low tone but very punchy bass drum.

I own a supraphonic did sound for a worckship band a few months ago dude showed up with an acrolite and it sounded incredible super airy sharp dynamic now i want one hahahah

Do you have a video on applying the Ludwig badges??? Would love to learn.

I would like to add a bass drum Tom mount to my Ludwig classic maple downbeat kit. Should I use a Ludwig mount or is there a better mount? Kinda tired of the snare stand.

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