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@@jasensanders I have thought about manifolds. The heat isn't much of an issue with modern materials. One of the big problems with center mount manifolds is the sharp turns the air fuel mixture has to make. Part of that is the intake port is angled away from the center of the engine making it much worse. I'm not sure how much can really be done and still fit things under the deck lid, as well as not having the runner length be extreme. It would be a tough nut to crack so-to-speak.

@@berhanandizzy Cool. What size IDA and Dellorto's do you have? I know the common IDA is 48 mm, but I see the EMPI EPC clone has a 51.5 if memory serves me correctly. I also see modified Webers that are either 51.5 or 52 mm.

I have a theory, but it's difficult to prove. I do have a possible solution for those that have the kit. I have a shim piece that I can print, with instructions on where to put in the installation, if you want to try it out.

@@andrigsaircooledtechnology You and I might be on the same page. If the fans are failing at the screws then a shim that adds uniform support around the hub under the collar insuring that the screws are only there to keep the fan from spinning on the hub and the shim is used for the clamping force. If that's the idea then you could also reduce the number of screws to probably 3 which would allow more material between the screws increasing the strength in that area. In fact a shim printed from a softer material such as TPU could be used instead of the shim and when the nut is tightened the TPU will conform to the area around the screws and also provide a buffer for harmonics which could also contribute to failure.

@@andrigsaircooledtechnology After looking closer the nut is applying force to the screws and not providing any clamping force to the fan it's self. The adapter holes wouldn't have to change. Simply print the fan with 3 holes instead of 6 include a TPU shim about 1 to 1.5mm thick.

Now I need to order the velocity ring as well.

Yeah, these have been bulletproof. While I don't really understand the failures of the 3D printed dual inlet fans, since these have been so reliable, I have designed a dual inlet version of the straight radial blade style. That should allow me to create a dual inlet version that is injection molded. The only problem with that is the cost of the mold. The molds are expensive, but I believe I have a way of funding the mold. I have a 3D printed version in my shop now, setup on my test rig for airflow testing. Should get airflow numbers this next week. I had to spend this entire week, cleaning and organizing my shop. Something that was well overdue, and freed up a lot of space to work. When I moved I threw a lot of stuff in there with no rhyme or reason. Now, it's all cleaned up, all the stuff that should have been in the trash thrown away, and everything organized and put in a proper place where I know where it is. I finally feel like I can be productive in there now. Hopefully, by mid-2025 I'll have a dual sided fan for sale again, that will be as reliable as the original lightweight cooling fan.

Gracias.

Awesome. Thanks for the support, and the combination of the fan and the velocity ring will be great for your son's daily-driver.

@@alfredovargas905 Gracias.

Thanks for the support. I think you'll be really happy with it, and I think they kind of look cool too, even though no one will really see it ;-)

@@andrigsaircooledtechnology haha agree.. like they said in germany sometimes; function over form 😁🤙🏼

Yes, it definitely has a high pitched sound. It's one thing that some people didn't like, but I also have had people tell me that really liked the sound. Going to the squirrel cage design eliminated that, expect at very high RPM. Glad to hear yours has been good for the last couple of years. It's what I keep hearing. Thanks.

My online store is here: andrigs.com/

I hope so too. Hopefully, these will sell well.

I appreciate the feedback. Your comment is interesting as I think the thickness of the center where it bolts to the mount using the six socket head screws is the issue that is causing the failures. I have changed that, and done some testing, and I have been providing a shim for some customers. When I get more data, then I may bring them back.

I have not had the time and money to finish this. I really want to get back to it though, as I only have a couple of real design issues to work out, and I have some additional 3D printed pieces to mock up on it to get the shock mounts correct. Hopefully, I'll get back to this in the next few months.

Reasonably priced, and I'm still talking 10's of thousands of dollars, 3D metal printers don't have the build volume for parts like this. They also suffer from issues with dimensional accuracy for a geometry like this. It would be nice to do it like that, but the upfront cost of a printer, sintering solution, and the prototyping necessary to potentially get a part that would be dimensionally accurate enough puts it out of reach for me, and really for most manufacturers today. It's getting better and better, but it's mostly limited to fields like Aerospace these days, where the cost is actually cheaper, or the per cost of the part isn't as important as being able to create a geometry that is impossible with traditional methods.

I could also back it with a copper sheet, which I have laying around my shop right now. The problem is the to get good weld penetration, there is just too much localized heat. If I find the right structural adhesive then I'll be able to just assembly the parts and let the cure, which is a lot less work then welding.

I have been thinking about these kinds of redundant approaches. Once I do some testing of these structural adhesives we will know more about what I may have to do in this regard. Thanks.

Thanks for the information. I'll check them out.

I have seen the metal spinning, and it definitely looks like a good option, but I believe it will still be much cheaper to 3D print those parts. We will see though, as someone else suggested a particular vendor so I'll be checking it out.

Yes, I have seen those and I have two products that I will be testing. One is a German product, and the other is a 3M product. I believe they will both probably work, but I also want to test these structural adhesives for my velocity rings that I'm bring out.

you and me both man

Made you click tho! 😂

Sorry about that. I didn't notice that it was blurry when I posted this.

I have paused sales of the fan kits for right now. I'll be posting a video later today with the details of what I'm doing. The weight difference is 81% lighter than stock. Watch for my post later today.

Thank you Andrig’s I will keep an eye for sure.

@@bigdaddymex2003 No, I don't make them anymore. I have the new Evolution Two fans in it's place. The new fans are a big improvement. Instead of a 7% increase in airflow, you get 21+%. I also have the Evolution fan shrouds (both no fresh air and fresh air heat), which will increase airflow with the OEM fan to 40+%, and finally the full Evolution Two cooling system, which combines the Evolution fan shroud with the Evolution Two fan and provides 64% more airflow. So, a number of different levels of cooling improvements.

If you look closely at the entire cooling system, you will find that the air is directed around the cylinders and underneath the cylinders, and around the cylinder heads and underneath too. There is an air vane in the cylinder head (most aftermarket cylinder tin don't have it, but OEM does) that directs the air on the top of the cylinder heads to the exhaust ports. On the underneath, there is a deflector that sits at the exit of the passage between the cylinders on the cylinder head (again aftermarket heads don't include this) that deflects the air going through the passage in the cylinder head to the exhaust ports. With the cylinders, the round cylinders naturally get air going around the tops, and there is a deflector you install underneath that directs the air through the fins on the underside of the cylinders. Those are critical parts of the cooling system, and unfortunately most aftermarket cylinder tin and cylinder heads don't include these critical parts. You can buy them separately from at least one vendor, and you can also get one set of aftermarket cylinder tin that include the air vane from the get go. The sleds and the skirts that are screwed to the underside of the cylinder tin also play a role in how the air moves over the heads and cylinders, so nothing should be left off. So, as long as you have those parts that are often missing from the aftermarket parts, you'll get good even cooling of the cylinders and cylinder heads. Since the missing pieces are available, I have not chosen to reproduce those, but just provide the new cooling system. Customers have reported really great results with this system, in terms of reduction of oil and head temps. Like anything, the results will vary depending you your specific engine combination.

Actually, the sound is basically the same at lower RPM. At high RPM, the airflow is so high, that it does create a high pitched sound that is very noticeable. When I tested the Evolution Two fan on my test engine, I actually had a couple of guys run over because they thought I was running a blown engine, and they wanted to see it, but it was just the sound of the fan. This was when I was doing 8,000 RPM tests. Generally, for just normal driving, even at higher RPM levels (like 5,000 to 6,000 RPM), the sound is not very noticeable.

@@scottstrand7865 The way the air vanes are designed eliminates the need for flaps. Since it also requires an external oil cooler, I recommend using an oil thermostat in the full flow setup.

I have them on my online store here: andrigs.com/

You can purchase from my online store here: andrigs.com/

Yes, I have one for the 6 volt generators in the works, but it had to take a back seat as I had so many orders, the printer that I normally use for prototyping and testing is fully dedicated to production parts right now. I'm very close, and when I get another printer, which should be in about a month and a half, I'll be able to get back to it, and have one. I'll also have Porsche 356/912, because they also use a 90 mm generator.

@andrigsaircooledtechnology ..I'll be hitting you back up in 2 months or so for the 356 version and 40hp 90mm backing plates

@@jerrygomezjr601 Very good. I appreciate that. It turns out that besides the diameter of the generator, the lengths are different, and even a bit different between VW and Porsche, because of the slight differences in backing plates. I discovered that the Porsche and VW backing plates for the early stuff are not exactly the same. They look the same, but there is a subtle difference. I'm really excited to offer these for older models of VW and the Porsche, so hopefully everything goes will for expanding my print capacity.

@andrigsaircooledtechnology .. also the 356 backing plate is also the same as the vw 36hp so even better...

@@jerrygomezjr601 From what I can tell, they are not identical, in that the clocked position of the generator is slightly different. The Porsche one has the generator clocked a little less, like around 3 to 5 degrees less. Other than that, they are the same.

Thanks.

No, it's a carbon fiber reinforced thermoplastic. It's as strong as most cast aluminums though.

Você pode comprar através da minha loja online aqui: andrigs.com/

@@andrigsaircooledtechnology perfeito, faz entrega ao Brasil?

outra pergunta, posso usar com venturi ring ou não precisa?

@@avidamecanica Sim.

@@avidamecanica Você pode usá-lo com um anel Venturi, mas é opcional.

Puedo realizar envíos a países de Sudamérica.

You happen to be right about that! Another customer shared the video he created with me, and it was a nicely done video showing the assembly, and doing a little airflow test with a piece of paper. It illustrated things very well, and I am very appreciative. My advertising only goes so far. When customers spread the word like he did, that makes all the difference in the world. Thanks.

El producto se puede utilizar en motores de cualquier tamaño y puede tener carburador o inyección de combustible. El producto también se puede utilizar con un generador o alternador.

If you can find a Thing shroud, those are good. I haven't seen the AA shrouds so I can't comment on those. The Concept 1 is good.

I would actually recommend the Type 1 deflector for under the cylinders, and the Type 1 cylinder head deflector that sits underneath the head in the center. Those were actually designed for proper direction of the air when it's coming from above. I'm not sure the Type 3 "cool tins" really work properly on a Type 1 engine, because the Type 3 cooling system has the air entering from the side of the engine, and the cylinder heads themselves are slightly different.

@andrigsaircooledtechnology that makes sense, I wasn't thinking about the type 1 deflectors and I do have those in place. Thanks for responding, with all the testing you've done in making this setup I want to get it right when I install it.

@@goldentrunnell7450 Sounds good.

Yes, the OEM fans, even welded and balanced with fly apart at times using a poly v-belt (serpentine) setup, because there is little to no belt slip. I tested the Evolution Two fan at 8,000 RPM on my test engine and it uses a poly v-belt setup, and had no issues at all. I think this is a very good fit for what you are doing, and you'll get better cooling with much better throttle response, since the Evolution Two fans are 81% lighter than an OEM fan. With the smaller pulley you'll still get better cooling because of the RPM your typically turning in this kind of racing, and you will get less horsepower draw. I have shipped quite a few orders to the UK, and I think you would be happy with the setup.

​@@andrigsaircooledtechnology That's great and thankyou for getting back to me! I'll have to crash some numbers to work out how small the bottom pulley needs to be....Very very tempted

@@ianbrown9082 Sounds good. I appreciate the support.

@@andrigsaircooledtechnology Order placed...Keep up the good work

​@@ianbrown9082Thanks so much.