When ready to torque the 18mm fan nut, if you install 1/2 of the pulley there will be 2 parallel flat surfaces that the 2nd had keys to. Use either and open ended wrench or a vise to hold the pulley and then you can torque the 18mm nut. That's how I torque the 36mm stock nut. BTW... keep up the good work. Guys like you are needed to keep this hobby going.
Yeah, sure. I always just installed everything on the engine, including the belt, and then just used a screw driver in the pulley slot to hold it in place while torquing the nut. In this case, that method is a lot easier since you only need to torque to 25 lb. ft. instead of the 42 of the original massive nut and spring washer. That's the advantage of having so much less rotating mass.
Shipping says mine should be here Monday. I'll be running it on a 2110cc in my Baja. Currently I don't have any other OEM tin material below the tin covering the cylinders and heads. Would you recommend cool tins to wrap around the lower portion of the cylinders? I'm really looking forward to using your system.
I would actually recommend the Type 1 deflector for under the cylinders, and the Type 1 cylinder head deflector that sits underneath the head in the center. Those were actually designed for proper direction of the air when it's coming from above. I'm not sure the Type 3 "cool tins" really work properly on a Type 1 engine, because the Type 3 cooling system has the air entering from the side of the engine, and the cylinder heads themselves are slightly different.
@andrigsaircooledtechnology that makes sense, I wasn't thinking about the type 1 deflectors and I do have those in place. Thanks for responding, with all the testing you've done in making this setup I want to get it right when I install it.
@@scottstrand7865 The way the air vanes are designed eliminates the need for flaps. Since it also requires an external oil cooler, I recommend using an oil thermostat in the full flow setup.
I have a fan that does fit the early fan shrouds, but currently I don't have support for the 6 volt generator. The backing plates are quite different, and the generator is not the same length, which requires some dimensional changes to both the fan and the inlet/backing plate. I have the fan prototype done, and it now fits fine, and I have the inlet/backing plate to print and verify as a prototype. So, if you have a 36 hp engine, but either have converted to a 12 volt generator or an alternator conversion, what I have will work for you already. If you have the pre '67 generators (6 volt), I'm not quite ready with the product, but it will be ready in the next month or so.
Well, I'm sorry you didn't like it. Installing the fan shroud on the engine is probably the part you already know, since you had to take the old off, but I can always add a part for that if people are confused by it not being in the video.
@andrigsaircooledtechnology It is not that I do not know how to install a fan or shroud. But I want to hear the fan system while it is running. I would think many people would want to see and hear it in action before ordering the system. I mainly want to hear iit in action, because I wonder if it sounds different than the stock VW system.
@@jameswright7382 That's fine. I can do another video showing it on my teat engine. I'm really busy, but will get to that eventually. In terms of the sound, it sounds similar to OEM, but as you go up the RPM band it is louder and sounds like a centrifugal supercharger. It just moves so much air that it will absolutely be different.
@andrigsaircooledtechnology I am very intrigued. I totally understand being busy in the shop. I am stoked someone has created a fan like this. Also, I would like to sincerely apologize for coming off like a tool in my first post. It was a bit rude, and uncalled for to include the wtf. 👍💯
@@jameswright7382 Yeah, I've been making quite a few of the fan shrouds for orders. I've also been working on a heater version of the fan shroud as enough people seem interested in that to make it worth the development effort. My laser cut sheet metal parts for the first prototype are on their way to me, and I'll be putting that together in the shop too. I wish I had recorded parts of my testing on my test engine, but when your busy monitoring engine data and RPM levels for testing, it's hard to record too. I also have a bit of a problem with my test engine in that it just has a "bullet" muffler, which isn't much of a muffler at all, so I think I will need to put a real muffler on the engine so that people can actually hear the cooling system ;-) Bye the way, no apology necessary, and no worries. I appreciate the interest. Keep an eye out, because I'll be introducing the same fan design for OEM and aftermarket Doghouse, Early VW and Porsche 356 fan shrouds too. Some people don't need the cooling capacity of the entire cooling system I designed, but would benefit from just the fan and inlet on their existing fan shrouds. They won't perform as well, but they will way outperform the OEM fans, and with being so much lighter (probably around 85 to 87% lighter than an OEM welded fan), that you will get the cooling improvements with the throttle response improvements too. My first lightweight cooling fan was 73% lighter, and my goal was 90%, but couldn't reach it with the original design. I'm getting really close with this design and material, which is exciting, at least for me. Thanks again, and take care.
When ready to torque the 18mm fan nut, if you install 1/2 of the pulley there will be 2 parallel flat surfaces that the 2nd had keys to. Use either and open ended wrench or a vise to hold the pulley and then you can torque the 18mm nut. That's how I torque the 36mm stock nut.
BTW... keep up the good work. Guys like you are needed to keep this hobby going.
Yeah, sure. I always just installed everything on the engine, including the belt, and then just used a screw driver in the pulley slot to hold it in place while torquing the nut. In this case, that method is a lot easier since you only need to torque to 25 lb. ft. instead of the 42 of the original massive nut and spring washer. That's the advantage of having so much less rotating mass.
Shipping says mine should be here Monday.
I'll be running it on a 2110cc in my Baja. Currently I don't have any other OEM tin material below the tin covering the cylinders and heads. Would you recommend cool tins to wrap around the lower portion of the cylinders?
I'm really looking forward to using your system.
I would actually recommend the Type 1 deflector for under the cylinders, and the Type 1 cylinder head deflector that sits underneath the head in the center. Those were actually designed for proper direction of the air when it's coming from above. I'm not sure the Type 3 "cool tins" really work properly on a Type 1 engine, because the Type 3 cooling system has the air entering from the side of the engine, and the cylinder heads themselves are slightly different.
@andrigsaircooledtechnology that makes sense, I wasn't thinking about the type 1 deflectors and I do have those in place.
Thanks for responding, with all the testing you've done in making this setup I want to get it right when I install it.
@@goldentrunnell7450 Sounds good.
Do you recommend the thermostat and flaps with this shroud, or is that not necessary, OR do you recommend your fixed flaps with it? TIA.
@@scottstrand7865 The way the air vanes are designed eliminates the need for flaps. Since it also requires an external oil cooler, I recommend using an oil thermostat in the full flow setup.
Is this fan available for a 36hp motor?
I have a fan that does fit the early fan shrouds, but currently I don't have support for the 6 volt generator. The backing plates are quite different, and the generator is not the same length, which requires some dimensional changes to both the fan and the inlet/backing plate. I have the fan prototype done, and it now fits fine, and I have the inlet/backing plate to print and verify as a prototype. So, if you have a 36 hp engine, but either have converted to a 12 volt generator or an alternator conversion, what I have will work for you already. If you have the pre '67 generators (6 volt), I'm not quite ready with the product, but it will be ready in the next month or so.
Come on buddy. An installation video, that does not show the fan on a complete engine?! Wtf...
Well, I'm sorry you didn't like it. Installing the fan shroud on the engine is probably the part you already know, since you had to take the old off, but I can always add a part for that if people are confused by it not being in the video.
@andrigsaircooledtechnology It is not that I do not know how to install a fan or shroud. But I want to hear the fan system while it is running. I would think many people would want to see and hear it in action before ordering the system. I mainly want to hear iit in action, because I wonder if it sounds different than the stock VW system.
@@jameswright7382 That's fine. I can do another video showing it on my teat engine. I'm really busy, but will get to that eventually. In terms of the sound, it sounds similar to OEM, but as you go up the RPM band it is louder and sounds like a centrifugal supercharger. It just moves so much air that it will absolutely be different.
@andrigsaircooledtechnology I am very intrigued. I totally understand being busy in the shop. I am stoked someone has created a fan like this. Also, I would like to sincerely apologize for coming off like a tool in my first post. It was a bit rude, and uncalled for to include the wtf. 👍💯
@@jameswright7382 Yeah, I've been making quite a few of the fan shrouds for orders. I've also been working on a heater version of the fan shroud as enough people seem interested in that to make it worth the development effort. My laser cut sheet metal parts for the first prototype are on their way to me, and I'll be putting that together in the shop too. I wish I had recorded parts of my testing on my test engine, but when your busy monitoring engine data and RPM levels for testing, it's hard to record too. I also have a bit of a problem with my test engine in that it just has a "bullet" muffler, which isn't much of a muffler at all, so I think I will need to put a real muffler on the engine so that people can actually hear the cooling system ;-) Bye the way, no apology necessary, and no worries. I appreciate the interest. Keep an eye out, because I'll be introducing the same fan design for OEM and aftermarket Doghouse, Early VW and Porsche 356 fan shrouds too. Some people don't need the cooling capacity of the entire cooling system I designed, but would benefit from just the fan and inlet on their existing fan shrouds. They won't perform as well, but they will way outperform the OEM fans, and with being so much lighter (probably around 85 to 87% lighter than an OEM welded fan), that you will get the cooling improvements with the throttle response improvements too. My first lightweight cooling fan was 73% lighter, and my goal was 90%, but couldn't reach it with the original design. I'm getting really close with this design and material, which is exciting, at least for me. Thanks again, and take care.