Ive got my 1969 type 1 , which will be a 1700 (1680 thick top ,single 2bbl.) that will be ready next year. So Im looking forward to using your new set up on my engine. Cheers An, from B.C. Canada.
@@natiemuller7235 andrigs.com/ Having said that I'm out of stock on the fans and fixed cooling flaps, but will have the fan out in the next day or so, and will have the fixed cooling flaps in about three weeks.
Wow back in the 70's I was building big horsepower vw's...Lots of fun back then..Parts were crazy cheap and everywhere. I would use a subaru engine if I had a vw now . I had a 1986 vanagon I drove for 22 years...Good job on what you are doing..
I am working on the manufacturing of the various components. It will take awhile, but in a couple of days I'll have samples of the silicone parts that seal up the throttle cable guide tube. In the next couple of weeks, I'll be test fitting on my test engine, with the aluminum bubble top case, but it should clear those without modification. I have a new prototype test fan as well, that is made from a material that should withstand testing on the test engine, although I have a even tougher material for production, but I'm using all of that for production of the next generation lightweight cooling fan. It's slowly coming together, and it will cool high horsepower high compression ratio engines very nicely.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology Yes, I am wanting to use this on a "high compression" large engine. I try to go through all of the factory sheetmetal fit and clear out the Fins on the cylinders and heads to try to get the cooling air through. Lots of work but I knew the system could be better. I was not really convinced that the 911 style shroud was the answer. Anyway, What got me interested, was you said that the "factory fan" can only push so much air. That is an obvious fact, But very true. Anyway I like the direction your are going.
@@rlprgp62 Yep, your build is what I'm targeting. The air flow improvement over the OEM shroud is 66.43% so far. That is with an older prototype of the fan. I have a newer prototype that should bump those numbers up a little, and will probably be the final. My goal is to enable people to drive their high compression high horsepower engines with reliability, and not have to worry about them overheating. I hate driving my car and worrying about whether I'm pushing it too hard, and watching those temps climb. I haven't tested the Porsche 911 Style fan shrouds, but I know very well the engineering behind them isn't that great. The ring behind the fan that the alternator sits in doesn't actually do what the person thinks it does. So much of the air ends up in the wrong place. There is nothing to keep the air from going along the top of the crankcase, and nothing to make sure that the air doesn't mostly escape out between the cylinders close to the crankcase. That's by far the largest opening, and air loves to take the path of least resistance. At some point, I think I purchase one and test it to get real data on it, but just looking at it, I know there are a lot of flaws, and while some people have good success with them, there are many that suffer with very high head temps, and get better head temps with just a Doghouse shroud and OEM fan. From what I can gather, the people that tend to have success with them, keep their compression ratio in the low range. You shouldn't have to do that when you have that large of a fan on your engine.
Cool I would love a kit to fit on my dream 2387cc type 1 which I will also fit nickeles clyinder bralles and JPM MS230 cylinder heads both of which have additional cooling fins, EFI and electrictronic ignition, which lightweight flywheel equalizer crank pulley for best possible reliability and longevity for a big high performance aircooled Volkswagen engine which I want to bolt noto a rancho pro drag transmission fitted with a berg 5 speed kit for my dream 1303 rally beetle/herbie replica because I would love to actually take part in historic rallies.
Your dream engine is almost identical to my test engine. I built a 2324 cc engine with 95 Nickies, and the JPM MS230 cylinder heads. I have their raptor cam and 1.6 ratio rocker arms too. I highly recommend using JPM's rocker arms with the 5 studs. You'll also have less problems with the rocker arm geometry using theirs with their heads. I also used their aluminum pushrods. They were concerned about using the 1.6 ratio rockers on the MS230 heads if I exceeded 6,500 RPM, but I have rev'd it to 8,000 many times without issue. It's a great combination. I also run EFI and my own heavy poly v-belt pulley system (weights in a 4.5 lbs.), and I have the Berg 5 conversion done for me by Rancho as well. A lot of commonality. Engines like these is why I have been designing these cooling systems. The Evolution Two will most likely cool an engine very well up to 400 to 450 hp, but I'm not positive yet. I have to do some calculations to get a better estimate.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology I will use their Tapered aluminium push rods,push rod tubes, a raptor a cam, CSP fined rocker covers, a scat billet crankshaft with type 4 mains for added longevity like with a equalizer pulley, add a CSP wasp stage 3 exhaust system. So excluding the HP gains for the increase efficiency from better cooling and the efi and EI the engine should make over 233 hp based on the HP figure of the CB performance big power engine and the HP gains with the was exhust system so I probably fit a a RLR street 6 clutch kit.
I think, depending on the specifics of the cam, you could make even more than that. You'll like the RLR clutch setup. I have been eyeing that for awhile. I think you'll be really happy with your combination.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology I'll use a raptor cam which is same specs a the cb performance egal cams that come with the cb performance big power engine kits btw the hp figure is purely based power out of that engine plus the hp gains of a csp wasp exhaust system but with a set of csp forged pistons aswell the engine will possibly be the most powerful N A aircooled type 1 of its size.
Something I'm not entirely clear on; the factory cooling system's weak point from my perspective is that it only blows air between the two cylinders, with no provisions to direct air forward/back to evenly cool the cylinder barrels. Does your cooling solution do anything about this, or does it just blow more air?
If you look closely at the entire cooling system, you will find that the air is directed around the cylinders and underneath the cylinders, and around the cylinder heads and underneath too. There is an air vane in the cylinder head (most aftermarket cylinder tin don't have it, but OEM does) that directs the air on the top of the cylinder heads to the exhaust ports. On the underneath, there is a deflector that sits at the exit of the passage between the cylinders on the cylinder head (again aftermarket heads don't include this) that deflects the air going through the passage in the cylinder head to the exhaust ports. With the cylinders, the round cylinders naturally get air going around the tops, and there is a deflector you install underneath that directs the air through the fins on the underside of the cylinders. Those are critical parts of the cooling system, and unfortunately most aftermarket cylinder tin and cylinder heads don't include these critical parts. You can buy them separately from at least one vendor, and you can also get one set of aftermarket cylinder tin that include the air vane from the get go. The sleds and the skirts that are screwed to the underside of the cylinder tin also play a role in how the air moves over the heads and cylinders, so nothing should be left off. So, as long as you have those parts that are often missing from the aftermarket parts, you'll get good even cooling of the cylinders and cylinder heads. Since the missing pieces are available, I have not chosen to reproduce those, but just provide the new cooling system. Customers have reported really great results with this system, in terms of reduction of oil and head temps. Like anything, the results will vary depending you your specific engine combination.
here in brazil . we need to update the cooling system of the vw bus engines. the vw bus use natural gas natural gnv. and the very high temperature damages. the engines mainly the heads
here in brazil we need to update the cooling system of the vw bus engines the vw bus use natural gas natural gas and the very high temperature damages the engines mainly the heads
Ive got my 1969 type 1 , which will be a 1700 (1680 thick top ,single 2bbl.) that will be ready next year. So Im looking forward to using your new set up on my engine. Cheers An, from B.C. Canada.
Sounds good. I appreciate the interest.
I'm waiting in high eagerness to buy one of these.
i want it realy bad
I'll get it out as soon as I can. Thanks for the interest.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology where can i order your products?
@@natiemuller7235 andrigs.com/ Having said that I'm out of stock on the fans and fixed cooling flaps, but will have the fan out in the next day or so, and will have the fixed cooling flaps in about three weeks.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology damn you sellout fast ,I missed it
Wow back in the 70's I was building big horsepower vw's...Lots of fun back then..Parts were crazy cheap and everywhere. I would use a subaru engine if I had a vw now . I had a 1986 vanagon I drove for 22 years...Good job on what you are doing..
Thanks.
Hmmm I would be very interested in using this fan/shroud cooling system.
I am working on the manufacturing of the various components. It will take awhile, but in a couple of days I'll have samples of the silicone parts that seal up the throttle cable guide tube. In the next couple of weeks, I'll be test fitting on my test engine, with the aluminum bubble top case, but it should clear those without modification. I have a new prototype test fan as well, that is made from a material that should withstand testing on the test engine, although I have a even tougher material for production, but I'm using all of that for production of the next generation lightweight cooling fan. It's slowly coming together, and it will cool high horsepower high compression ratio engines very nicely.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology Yes, I am wanting to use this on a "high compression" large engine. I try to go through all of the factory sheetmetal fit and clear out the Fins on the cylinders and heads to try to get the cooling air through. Lots of work but I knew the system could be better. I was not really convinced that the 911 style shroud was the answer. Anyway, What got me interested, was you said that the "factory fan" can only push so much air. That is an obvious fact, But very true. Anyway I like the direction your are going.
@@rlprgp62 Yep, your build is what I'm targeting. The air flow improvement over the OEM shroud is 66.43% so far. That is with an older prototype of the fan. I have a newer prototype that should bump those numbers up a little, and will probably be the final. My goal is to enable people to drive their high compression high horsepower engines with reliability, and not have to worry about them overheating. I hate driving my car and worrying about whether I'm pushing it too hard, and watching those temps climb. I haven't tested the Porsche 911 Style fan shrouds, but I know very well the engineering behind them isn't that great. The ring behind the fan that the alternator sits in doesn't actually do what the person thinks it does. So much of the air ends up in the wrong place. There is nothing to keep the air from going along the top of the crankcase, and nothing to make sure that the air doesn't mostly escape out between the cylinders close to the crankcase. That's by far the largest opening, and air loves to take the path of least resistance. At some point, I think I purchase one and test it to get real data on it, but just looking at it, I know there are a lot of flaws, and while some people have good success with them, there are many that suffer with very high head temps, and get better head temps with just a Doghouse shroud and OEM fan. From what I can gather, the people that tend to have success with them, keep their compression ratio in the low range. You shouldn't have to do that when you have that large of a fan on your engine.
Cool I would love a kit to fit on my dream 2387cc type 1 which I will also fit nickeles clyinder bralles and JPM MS230 cylinder heads both of which have additional cooling fins, EFI and electrictronic ignition, which lightweight flywheel equalizer crank pulley for best possible reliability and longevity for a big high performance aircooled Volkswagen engine which I want to bolt noto a rancho pro drag transmission fitted with a berg 5 speed kit for my dream 1303 rally beetle/herbie replica because I would love to actually take part in historic rallies.
Your dream engine is almost identical to my test engine. I built a 2324 cc engine with 95 Nickies, and the JPM MS230 cylinder heads. I have their raptor cam and 1.6 ratio rocker arms too. I highly recommend using JPM's rocker arms with the 5 studs. You'll also have less problems with the rocker arm geometry using theirs with their heads. I also used their aluminum pushrods. They were concerned about using the 1.6 ratio rockers on the MS230 heads if I exceeded 6,500 RPM, but I have rev'd it to 8,000 many times without issue. It's a great combination. I also run EFI and my own heavy poly v-belt pulley system (weights in a 4.5 lbs.), and I have the Berg 5 conversion done for me by Rancho as well. A lot of commonality. Engines like these is why I have been designing these cooling systems. The Evolution Two will most likely cool an engine very well up to 400 to 450 hp, but I'm not positive yet. I have to do some calculations to get a better estimate.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology I will use their Tapered aluminium push rods,push rod tubes, a raptor a cam, CSP fined rocker covers, a scat billet crankshaft with type 4 mains for added longevity like with a equalizer pulley, add a CSP wasp stage 3 exhaust system. So excluding the HP gains for the increase efficiency from better cooling and the efi and EI the engine should make over 233 hp based on the HP figure of the CB performance big power engine and the HP gains with the was exhust system so I probably fit a a RLR street 6 clutch kit.
I think, depending on the specifics of the cam, you could make even more than that. You'll like the RLR clutch setup. I have been eyeing that for awhile. I think you'll be really happy with your combination.
@@andrigsaircooledtechnology I'll use a raptor cam which is same specs a the cb performance egal cams that come with the cb performance big power engine kits btw the hp figure is purely based power out of that engine plus the hp gains of a csp wasp exhaust system but with a set of csp forged pistons aswell the engine will possibly be the most powerful N A aircooled type 1 of its size.
Keep up with the new idea's on cooling any improvement helps
Thanks, and will do.
Something I'm not entirely clear on; the factory cooling system's weak point from my perspective is that it only blows air between the two cylinders, with no provisions to direct air forward/back to evenly cool the cylinder barrels. Does your cooling solution do anything about this, or does it just blow more air?
If you look closely at the entire cooling system, you will find that the air is directed around the cylinders and underneath the cylinders, and around the cylinder heads and underneath too. There is an air vane in the cylinder head (most aftermarket cylinder tin don't have it, but OEM does) that directs the air on the top of the cylinder heads to the exhaust ports. On the underneath, there is a deflector that sits at the exit of the passage between the cylinders on the cylinder head (again aftermarket heads don't include this) that deflects the air going through the passage in the cylinder head to the exhaust ports. With the cylinders, the round cylinders naturally get air going around the tops, and there is a deflector you install underneath that directs the air through the fins on the underside of the cylinders. Those are critical parts of the cooling system, and unfortunately most aftermarket cylinder tin and cylinder heads don't include these critical parts. You can buy them separately from at least one vendor, and you can also get one set of aftermarket cylinder tin that include the air vane from the get go. The sleds and the skirts that are screwed to the underside of the cylinder tin also play a role in how the air moves over the heads and cylinders, so nothing should be left off. So, as long as you have those parts that are often missing from the aftermarket parts, you'll get good even cooling of the cylinders and cylinder heads. Since the missing pieces are available, I have not chosen to reproduce those, but just provide the new cooling system. Customers have reported really great results with this system, in terms of reduction of oil and head temps. Like anything, the results will vary depending you your specific engine combination.
here in brazil . we need to update the cooling system of the vw bus engines. the vw bus use natural gas natural gnv. and the very high temperature damages. the engines mainly the heads
Yes, this would help that situation a lot.
here in brazil we need to update the cooling system of the vw bus engines the vw bus use natural gas natural gas and the very high temperature damages the engines mainly the heads
I have this Evolution Two cooling system available now. I think it would help you keep those buses cool.