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Stevan Tontich Photography Video Channel
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2015
Contax 167MT & Carl Zeiss T* 28mm f/2.8 lens Review
My impressions of this 35mm film camera and excellent Contax C/Y Mount Carl Zeiss 28mm f/2.8 lens
มุมมอง: 4 081
วีดีโอ
PETRI Color 35 Film Camera Review
มุมมอง 4.4K3 ปีที่แล้ว
A video review of PETRI Color 35 film camera - a competitor to Rollei 35. With samples.
Nikon N80 / F80 Review
มุมมอง 8K5 ปีที่แล้ว
short review of Nikon N80 (F80) camera, feature set and why I like it.
Olympus 35 RD Camera Review
มุมมอง 3.1K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Great rangefinder from the 1970s, cult Olympus 35 RD is an excellent choice for 35mm rangefinder photography. It has an excellent Zuiko lens, good feature set, and shutter priority auto mode when installed with batteries. Small and fun to use.Enjoy!
35mm Film Developing Tank System by LPL
มุมมอง 1.9K5 ปีที่แล้ว
This video shows a type of a stainless steel 35mm tank system made by a company LPL from Japan. It features LPL reel and handy loader and shows how to load film on a stainless steel reel using this method.
Graflex Speed Graphic Large Format Camera Review
มุมมอง 5K5 ปีที่แล้ว
A review of Graflex Speed Graphic large format camera with sample images ...please comment and join in the fun!
Handheld Large Format 4x5 with Graflex Speed Graphic
มุมมอง 2.4K5 ปีที่แล้ว
A quick lunch break adventure with my speed graphic ...and shooting hand held for the first time. I was alone, so I could not video myself while taking the photographs....bummer!
Yosemite with 4x5 Large Format Camera
มุมมอง 2.5K5 ปีที่แล้ว
A video depicting some of the my adventures in the Yosemite Valley, and some clips of setting up and using a 4x5" Large Format Film camera. Hope you enjoy!
Contax iia Review
มุมมอง 17K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Review of Contax iia rangefinder film camera, Zeiss Opton T 50mm f/1.5 and Zeiss-Opton Biogon 35mm f/2.8 lenses with sample images.
Some of My Favorite Cams
มุมมอง 6285 ปีที่แล้ว
Three of my favorite 35mm film cameras. Includes short overview of Olympus XA, Contax 167MT with Carl Zeiss Planar 50mm f/1.7 and Nikon F3 with Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 lens. Sample photos.
Hasselblad 500c, Zeiss Planar 2.8/80 T* and A12 back Review
มุมมอง 19K7 ปีที่แล้ว
Hasselblad 500c, Zeiss Planar 2.8/80 T* and A12 back Review
I just found one of these at a yard sale it seems to work well. just need to have it Cleaned and lubed this video was very helpful. Thank you.
Informative 👍
Thank you Stevan - great video! Any tip on how to get the camera to shoot in auto mode? I have the battery and ISO selected but it won't shoot. Works in manual only. Thank you!
Does the meter needle respond to light or move at all? The mechanical aspects of the camera (shutter and f stop manual settings) will work even if the light meter / battery circuit are not functional, so that makes sense. If, however, it does not do anything when exposed to plenty of light on the A mode, then it is likely something in the meter / battery circuit is not working correctly. Anything from corrosion on the terminals, to unsoldered wiring, to a dead metering cell.
Upgraded from a Fujica AX-5 to this Contax and im loving how well built and solid it feels,mine has the databack too
i stoped using my digital cameras becouse of this camera...
Thanks for demonstrating the loader. Well done. Now about the Patterson reel system, it works quite well with narrow 35mm film. It doesn't work well with 127 and 120 film due to the natural process of memory curl. I've literally spent 6 hours trying to load a roll of 127 onto a Patterson reel! It was an old exposed roll ca. 1960's with extreme memory curl. The steel reels were originally engineered to cope with memory curl. Just like the plastic reels, the steel wheels require some practice. But this loader you demonstrated about blew me away! It doesn't damage the emulsion? If not, this is a 120 film shooters dream come true.
Nowdays, I use Patterson the most. I have one small trick for 120 that works like a charm for me. I always take the film off the spool first and throw away the paper liner, but then I roll it back in my hands to the original starting position - because - that end of the film has less memory in it / less curvature. Then, I fold 1/4" of the leading edge over all the way, and then back off a little. That fold creates a "straight edge" if you will - which then feeds through the Patterson reel much easier. Using this method, it usually takes me 30 seconds or less to load 120. Maybe I should do a quick video on that one way. As far as this handy loader goes, it is only for 35mm / 135 film.
@@stevantontichphotographyvi9358 I just today used your method to load 120 and it worked great. Thanks
That was very enjoyable. Brief but concise. Your photos at the end demonstrate how well the cameras meter works. Very well exposed and bitingly sharp too. Thanks
Glad you had Mark Hansen work on it. A great resource. The only way to wind it. It's the best for the camera. Enjoy!
If you want to release a lens from the camera body you don't need to press the two buttons of the lens, just the located in the upper part with shallow lines (known as lens release button). The lower button with no lines is the button used to check the depth of field in the picture.
Late OM-4s and all OM-4Ts lacked the battery drain horror.
Thank you for nice review. One simple question: can you take a picture with Nikon F80 if the camera is not focused on the object? Thanks in advance.
Set the focus on M then you can do it
This camera is a jewel and as the original owner of my model, I can't give it up.
To each his own, but IMO sort of ugly. Body by Samsung. Lens by ???, maybe by Rollei., but more likely by Schneider. Bucking the probabilities, it came together as a very workable, high quality 35mm automatic camera, offering full automation of everything, or allowing any part of the process to be manual. Pretty sure the same two models were rebranded and sold identically by someone else at the same time. Who??? Biggest problem for sales? The price. It was very expensive. Rollei's contribution to this group-think project seems to have been its brand name and enforcement of quality control over those who actually made the camera. Current value? So few sold on ebay that there is no good sales reference. New in box ones offered around $1,200 - $1,300. Seems silly, but it still beats the crap out of Contax T2 or T3.
Thanks for sharing. This was one of my first 35mm cameras when I went back to film, several years ago. Looking back on it now, I do think it is a little clunky, heavy, and over-priced. The lens was good - who ever made it - I have taken some really nice shots with it. I applaud the exploration of new ideas in design - they went where others did not go - and the esthetics? - they were definitely from that period. I leave my videos up for people who are still interested in reviewing / looking at one, or may have one - it helps, especially with a camera like this one - which has little on it elsewhere on the internet.
@@stevantontichphotographyvi9358 Varigon is made by Schneider optics.
Even Contax cameras were reasonable price too until people saw celebrities using it. I use to own Leica CM and price range is around Contax T3. I did pay premium price for it but I did sell it same price I purchased for. People don't understand when it fails they have 2k plus brick just laying around.
Zeiss Never made a 50mm 1:1.8 they made a 1:1.5 lens.... Very Expensive lens in today's market especially in Japan..
Thx! I totally agree with your opinions on this camera. I own a CONTAX II produced in Stuttgart and in addition two Kiev cameras. Unfortunately, a second CONTAX II has a broken shutter curtain. Overall these cameras feel great and very valuable.
Hello, how do you frame shots if there are no frame lines in the viewfinder?
Hello, great review! I have found a QZ35T and it is fantastic! Just the lens cap/remote control is missing. Is there any possibility to use another aftermarket Ir-remote control?
i am still thinking between this or the canon a-1 pls help
Hard choice. Om1 is smaller and mechanical. A classic. I had A1 and loved it. It was a technical marvel back in the day. I really like the red led display of the shutter and aperture in the viewfinder. I did not like the shooting mode selector as well. A1 is a much more modern camera. So if you want a classic mechanical with manual everything, om1. If you want one with more automation then A1. :-)
@@stevantontichphotographyvi9358 cuz i saw that Canon A-1 has the viewfinder displaying information which seems to be better? Compared to the needle meter so I'm stuck between the 2 How about lens options though? I hear zuiko lenses are sharper than FD but they are more ex cuz they ain't as widespread compared to FD
@@qibcentricsplayground2043 I find both lenses to be excellent. I actually think Canon ones I tried had a good deal of character I liked also. And, to be honest, I actually prefer the A-1 display in the viewfinder...for shooting at night, at least - you cannot see the needle OM-1 well or at all.
@@stevantontichphotographyvi9358 indeed. that was what i was afraid of. i think imma snag a A-1. Thank you so much for your help!
Hey nice review… does it have parallax correction?
No It does not, you must use External finders with Parallax Frame Marks. I have the 50mm, 35mm, and the 85mm finders for my Contax, and for the record Zeiss Never Made a 50mm 1.1.8 lens they made 1:1.5 lens....
Just for the record. The right hand side tab on the lens is a depth of field pre view mechanism that operates the aperture blades
Neat video! I won't rest until I am able to handhold an 8x10 lol
The diopter adjustment for the viewfinder is also a nice feature for us folks with less than perfect eyesight. I also like the option of turning on the gridlines in the viewfinder.
Hi, should the SQ-A still turn on if it has no film roll in it? I want to sell mine but it doesn't switch on. It has a working 6v battery but no luck. I'm wondering if it could be because there's no film roll. I'd appreciate any help, thank you
Sorry, I did not see this before. I am not 100% certain what you mean by "turning on". The battery is there only to "fire" the shutter, and for the correct amount of time. When this is happening, a little red LED light in the view finder lights up. Otherwise, there is no other immediate sign that the camera is on. Film would not make any difference though. If all other things are set correctly, you should get the camera to fire and you should be able to see the shutter stay open and close for a given period of time by looking through the lens.
@@stevantontichphotographyvi9358 Thank you so much for replying, I haven't looked at the camera for a couple of weeks but I will have another look tomorrow, following your guidance. By turning on, I literally mean any sign of life, a light or a noise! Just to clarify, I would still be able to get the camera to fire if there is no film? Just to test it is functioning? I will try tomorrow. Really appreciate the reply, hopefully I will be able to finally make sense of it :)
Great review and excellent photo examples. Professional quality from a coat pocket camera. Well done!
How costs a used at good condition?
OM1n body runs around a $100 on eBay in good condition - lenses go for $30 onward.
wait!!, before you extend the front standard, you must retract the focus bed/ track all the way, otherwise the standard "car" will fall off the track- there is a gap in the hinge area!!, at least in most of this style of camera, like Linhof Technika.Some of these have a "focus stage" in the body area, to store the standard, but in those which have another knob on the left side, this is used to focus the <90mm, wide angle lenses, with the bed down, as you show here. ALSO you need to add the cam for the range-finder coupling before the standard goes out ( this puts the follower roller in the track forward far enough to allow cam insertion into a fitting on the hinge side of the bed.).
Thanks for the comments and the additionally good information.
This is the first camera I've seen with the FOCUSPOT in a long time...I had one on mine, but I was curious about how the camera worked, and I took it apart, and was not able to put it back together again...Humpty Dumpty, etc.
Hello, I am looking for new optics for my Contax 167MT. I am interested in Zeiss optics. Can I mount Zeiss optics which doesnt have a t* on them? Thank you
It has to be so called c/y lens mount lens, which stands for Contax/Yashica mount. I do think all of the ones made with that mount have the newer T* coating. T* is only a type of coating on the lenses. Hope that helps.
You can just take your index finger and zip it along the knurled knob to advance. No turning/twisting at all necessary.
Hello there, i have just aquired a speed graphic this week and have been experimenting with al the movements. However, i can't get the camera body back into the case as the rails inside the camera are not aligned. Have i done something wrong here? There is a lever inside the left side of the camera that is not connected to anything apart from the rangefinder. Can you help us please?
Hi. Front lens standard lives on two little metal rails mounted on the bottom of the camera casing. The lever mounted on the standard itself keeps it in place. When lever is pressed, it allows the front standard to slide freely on the rails. If, however, you go too far, it will derail and sort of dangle because it is not on the little rails. I think that is your issue. To fix, press the little lever on the standard, and while holding it pressed, align the standard with the rails, mount on the rails and push in. Release the lever to lock. Hard to explain, easier to do. :-)
@@stevantontichphotographyvi9358 Hi and thanks for your speedy reply. The front standard slides quite freely along the rails and locks into place as it should. However, the problem is putting the front standard BACK into the camera body. The rails inside the camera body are not aligned on the right habd side as you look at the front of the camera. Should the lever connected to the rangefinder be connect to the front standard for focusing Please?
@@pixsellpix so, the front standard can be on the rails which are part of the lid, or on the rails in the camera. To put it back, it has to go from the rails on the lid to the ones in the camera. These have to be aligned for it to work. It sounds like they are not? If they are not, maybe some adjustment is needed (not sure if there are screws or similar to do that). they have to align - the big idea is that one should be able to slide the standard "seamlessly" from inside rails to ones on the lid. If that is not possible because rails are not aligned then ...maybe an issue.
@@stevantontichphotographyvi9358 Yeah the rails inside the body of the camera appear to "likt" up on the right side so they do not align. Do you think it will be o.k. to take the front standard off the rails to get inside the camera to work out what is happening?
@@pixsellpix Yeah, sounds like some work is needed. I work on cameras some, and I would be ok with doing it on mine - but I cannot say for you - it depends on your skill level and tools used. For most part, these are pretty simple, mechanically speaking.
I just stumbled upon this camera a Goodwill . Doing all my research on it now pretty excited to get it going
Sweet! Let me know if you need some help
@@stevantontichphotographyvi9358 thanks, quick question have you used it with the battery or without? Is it better to have the battery
@@iamshikirah i would suggest getting a battery. You can find them on ebay. A company called Weinncell MRB 625
I used to use Nikor tanks, i am returning to developing film again. I got a JOBO tank and I am returning it. I found new old stock Nikor tanks for 120 and 35 mm. snapped them up. Nothing beats stainless steel!
Another rumbling off the cuff talk. No plan, no concept, just waste of time. I guess that is the purpose.
Olympus Om1 vs Ollympus Om1 n.
Portrait / Vertical; what is the "problem" ? Do you know the cameras with 120 spool and neg size 4,5 x 6 cm ? Nobody is "complaining" about Vertical /Portrait !
I just got one but the film advance is stuck? The lens diaphragm wont open either...? Any tips? Thank you!
You have to rotate the focus wheel on the back, next to the view finder ,to extend the lens all the way out. Then, everything will start to work. If that is stuck - it may be an issue (meaning, if the wheel will not turn). Let me know how it goes.
@@stevantontichphotographyvi9358 ah I think there is something wrong then. I extended the lens all the way out and the lever still can’t advance 😔
@@Katiedoan88 sorry to hear. It's a great little camera, but only when it works. Maybe try another one.
@@stevantontichphotographyvi9358 thanks for your help though, I appreciate it! I’ll have to head to a local Film store and maybe they will know how to solve this problem! 👍
I’ve just got one of these. I love it! A small camera with all the manual control you could want. I wish it was a rangefinder as welll, but hey.
How do you set iso/asa setting on this camera?
You cannot. It has no built in meter.
Thanks this was interesting
Love these little cameras. Sam Abell used them
Very good tutorial!
The OM4Ti is the best SLR for 35 mm Film Cameras, among all Japanese made Cameras, including Canon, Pentax & Nikon. Using the Flash F280 TTL System you can shoot at shutter speeds up to 1/2000 Second. It also has automatic exposure with aperture priority up to complete 120 Seconds, which is great for Night Photography but you need a professional Tripod. The Spot Metering system and average metering system are second to none and are really top professional, reading the light exposure off the film plane. Many Thanks for the nice review and assessment of this legendary camera from Olympus.
Maybe the best non Autofocus camera but not even close to the best SLR overall. This crown definitely goes to the Minolta Dynax 9 which has beside other insane features a 1/12000 of a shutter speed and the most advanced metering system for film cameras.
@@edding6210 How often do you need 1/12000th of a second 😆
Fantastic post and beautiful images! Iceland is on my bucket-list. What a great opportunity you had to film and photograph its beautiful landscape. I love the horse image at 6:50 as well as the image at 9:00.
Which 85mm lens is it? Is it the D or G ?
That's the D version.
Stunning photos! Thanks for this video been on the fence of getting this camera or the Rollei 35S. where can we get a copy of your cheat sheet !!!??
Hi. I think if you find one of these in good condition, it's a great place to start! Less expensive than Rollei for sure. I only have my cheat sheet, sorry. If you look up the camera manual online, you can find something similar inside. Thanks!
@@stevantontichphotographyvi9358 yea the only one i found was on ebay for 250 euros plus 50$ shipping so i will wait til i find a better deal but thanks for sharing your experience. not many videos out there reviewing this camera. happy holidays :)
I've been into Contax/Yashica since 1980. I used the predecessor to the 167MT, the 159MM, bought it new in 1985 and recently just retired it. Replaced the 159MM with the Aria last week, great camera and a joy to use. I also love that Zeiss 28mm F 2.8, it's been my most used Carl Zeiss lens over the years. My Zeiss 85mm F1.4 has on it "Made in West Germany." I guess I'm a life long Contax and Zeiss fan. Cheers!
Two additional notes: The little black button on the right side of the lens mount (seen from behind) illuminates the indicator in the viewfinder for 10 seconds which is really needed in low light situations. Also, the self timer switch silences the beep sounds when pushed inwards. The beeps can be quite disturbing when the camera warns for overexposure (one still has this blinking "OVER" warning in the viewfinder). I'm sure you know this -- just thought these two features needed an explanation. And I fully agree with you regarding the amazing eight point spot metering! It's a truly unique feature not even found in the OM-D series, or in any other modern digital camera as far as I know. Oddly enough, one might add.
To my eye, Contax IIa is the most beautiful camera ever. And with the ridiculously low price these days, it's a great bargain, too! FWIW, although Zeiss Ikon and Carl Zeiss were related, they were different companies. ZI was a camera-only company and CZ was/is an optics company (among others).
I have one of these- it was my mothers, who passed several years ago. It has the Sonnar 1:1.5 50 mm lens. If anyone is interested in purchasing it from me, please pm me. I'll give you a good deal. Thanks!
Jeff i can not figure out how to send you a PM about your camera. Can you send me one?
It seems absolutely amazing to me that something as simple as loading a roll of film into the camera needs such exacting explanation! I'm nearly 70, and I started loading cameras before I was 9 ! YES! It's so easy, even a child can do it!
LR44 battery