Great vid. A lot of great tips. I will be putting in some Weber 34 ICT in my 1970 bus (CB Performance Linkage). This was super helpful. One question...that rubber seal on the bottom pan, I see yours is on top. I have one that is split and has two flaps. Do they split the pan with one underneath and one on top or do you have both flaps on the top?
Yea sir, that style is meant to split one on top and one below. Not an easy chore! I learned to to proactively manipulate/tend to the places of the seal AS IM PUTTING THE ENGINE IN. It can be a doozie to try and situate it afterwards.
@@bomberobus I put in a new exhaust and pulled that pan....that is when I noticed the split seal and both "halves" were under the pan. I will get back in there and see if I can put it in properly. BTW - How do you like your Dual Weber 34 ICT? There are some people very against these carbs. Can I ask what jets you are using? Mine came with F78 emulsion tubes and from what I can gather the F6 is the preferred for a VW 1600 motor. What are you using for all your jets?
I live in Corpus Christi Texas , and I would have to go to San Antonio or Houston to get to a machine shop ? I have a 71 bus named Rambus it has a dp1600 with d-port heads a W100 cam and a 32-36 progressive.and quiete pack.Here if you need your case rebuilt you mise well buy a new one . This week it had a knock noise every time I hit a bump or hit the brakes.-maybe the ball joints no it was a can of Raid I had in the back that would roll up and hit the pass.seat wall . Thanks for Video B.B.
Rambus….I love it! Yeah seems like the machine shop days are close to over, but man the cases are so expensive. At least you found your knock…rolling raid can?😂 Sounds like a nice torquey engine for Rambus. Happy V-dubbin in Texas.
@@bomberobus all kinds of problems today just changing my alternator, fans rubbing on the doghouse, ran out of daylight battle tomorrow 🤣 it's just lucky it's 🥰
@@campervanbug7658 LOL that sounds the “rabbit hole” I always think about whenever I touch anything on a VW. You start one thing and just don’t know where else it’ll end up. You’re right, gotta love it or it’ll make ya mad 😂
5 yrs with this kit ran perfectly . Now Miss fire under load . Change out plugs wires also switch over to electronic ignition. Still have the miss . Thinking one carbs needs rebuild What u think
I think if you got 5 trouble free years from them then you’ve already won! But a lot of the electronic ignition require a compatible low resistance coil (I think .6 ohm). I had a pertronix that wouldn’t run right due to that because I didn’t know at the time. So I wonder if you have the right coil for your dizzy. Either way, I’d for sure rebuild the carbs anyway. If not completely then I’d at least change needle/seat/washer and check float heights.
hello Mike....made my day finding this video...super big help...I just installed weber 34 ict's....I followed your suggested screw settings...idle 1 1/2 turns out....mixture 2 turns out ...I can not get the carbs to idle..crazy..there is not reason why they shouldn't. fuel pressure is 1.5. any suggestions would help. Thank you.
Hmmmm. Seems best IMO to think outside-in. I know that they don’t idle easily because of the single throat trying to feed two cylinders. Usually cylinders #1 and #3 like to rob a wee bit more fuel from #2 and #4 during idle, but that usually just makes a rough-ish idle that smooths out under acceleration. You might already know that, but I’m just starting methodically. Do you have an electronic ignition?
@@bomberobus hello mike..thank you for getting back to me...yes i have electronic ignition installed in a German Bosch 009. i was able to start the bug and keep things running..timing is at 30* btdc at 3000 rpms...i have to tell you in order to get the motor to start..i had to turn out the idle screws at least 4 turns...seems excessive..not sure why?? so i gave things a rest...fuel mixture is about 21/2 turns out....will go out it again tomorrow....thank you in advance for your guidance..
@@matthewdazzo6395 4 turns? Do you know what size the idle jets are? Anything over 2 turns out usually means you need bigger idle jet. Mine seems to like between 50 and 55 idle jets depending on weather and season etc. Also the worst time I had idle problems, it was my electronic ignition going bad.
@@bomberobus hello mike..I purchased the carbs from my engine builder..when I first installed them the bug was running rough..but was running better than before I tried to adjust things..I should have left it alone..I do not know what size jets are installed.what I did this morning is texted the engine builder..and asked him if I can send them back for a saving readjustment.waiting to see what he says..if this plan does not work. than I will pull the carbs and review all the jets and get back to you..as far as the electronic ignition..I have never had an issue..always reliable...
I have those carbs on my beetle, and am having the problem you mentioned about the springs on the carbs not being strong enough to pull the lever against the stop on the carb... Where would I get those springs, also the compression spring on the center lever ?
Hey Michael, I found some standard run of the mill springs at autozone that happened to work out. They also have them at JBUGS. As for the compression spring in the middle, it was in that engine when I bought the Bus, and I have not been able to locate a source for it. Anyway I don’t use that center one anymore because the springs from autozone worked so well.
Sure, my brother runs one and it works great. In my opinion, they’re great for smaller 1600 and less engines that need the extra advance on take off. Once you go bigger than 1600 and do things like stroker and bigger valves etc, you’re revving past the 009 flat spot pretty quickly. Proper jet combo and it’s unnoticeable.
Too much to explain but my vid “6 reasons your carbs are flooding” explains it all. For me, the washer/spacer under the needle seat was smashed, so I replaced it, and that cured the Bus, but I also bought a nice Carter electric pump for it. Now in the bug, it was too much pressure (6 psi!!!) from a cheaper electronic pump. So I put a regulator in line and that fixed it. Those EPC 34’s from Empi need 3-3.5 psi I’ve found.
I guess you could, it’d be interesting because it could tell you exactly how out of whack that style of linkage and/or your throttle control lever is. I’ve been using a push-pull linkage since that vid and live it so far.
I’ve had, and continue to have, great success with dual Empi 34’s AFTER putting Redline Weber hardware in them. Good power and mileage on 1800cc. Your 40idf probably doesn’t leak from the galley plugs because it’s a Weber. The last 3 Empi 40’s I’ve seen all leaked. So far (bang for the buck) dual epc 34’s with Weber hardware, and the CSP BELLCRANK linkage has been the best set up. That linkage makes a crisp throttle response and stays tuned. The hex bar linkage had too many angle changes and little pieces that wore out, causing tuning changes. It’s like I was always re-tuning to the linkage changes. But I do drive it ALOT
I think you’re referring to the brackets. Those brackets hold a crossbar that connects the two carburetors to each other. I remove the crossbar, tune each carb individually, then reconnect the the crossbar so the carbs become a team. Good eye, they do look funny😂. They’re so huge that they take away from the good looks of the carbs. That’s one reason I’ve switched to a CSP bellcrank linkage since that vid and I love it! Made a vid on that too! 😎 KEEP ON CAMPIN AND CRUZIN.
When you synced the carbs and dialed in the mixtures did you crimp the balance tube? I can’t see in you video if there’s one installed. In my carbs I crimp the balance tube to get it adjusted
Hey Craig. No balance tubes. They seem to go well without it, but I still think about trying one. But yes I would block off the tube port (or crimp) if I had one. Thanks for checkin!
Thanks Bombero for the info, I run a balance tube on mine and clamp it off when I make the adjustments. Those little Weber ICT or EMPI ECT run very well on any 1600-1776cc when you get the timing and jetting set right. I also found that if you buy the Solex air filters through CB Performance and slap them on it helps with the breathing also since they are a bigger air filter, helps with keeping the intakes cooler. I also run taller manifolds and it helps give an extra boost of power
@@Cpostel77 Wow I am definitely going to try the air filters when I replace them. Where you find the taller manifolds? I want those so the heat creeping up to the carbs (after shut down) has farther to go as well as the little power boost. Good stuff man…appreciated
Scat makes them but I’m running the Empi tall manifolds, I believe Appletree VW parts Carries them. Or any EMPI dealer should be able to get them for you. EMPI 34 EPC are the same as Weber ICT so all parts match up, I did have to run my main jet alittle fatter since the gas has to flow more my it sure makes more power.
Also for my 1776cc the jetting I use is : 60 idle jets, 165mains, 180 air and F6 emulsion tubes. Timing set at 30*. This is all set at Ohio elevation but boy does that VW Bug fly
Can I use PICT carbs instead of PDSIT with the short dual port manifolds? I guess the question is....do they have the same base flange and bolt centers?
I’ve always loved this subject😎. I mostly subscribe to “if it’s not broken, then don’t fix it” School of thought. On this particular set of carbs, they tuned and idled well, so no balance tube. If I had a problem that I couldn’t tune out, then I’d throw a balance tube at it. So this set of carbs doesn’t “need” the tubes, BUT one day I will add some just to document the effects (good or bad). That’s the only way I’ll ever know for sure. Thanks for checkin it out🤙🏼
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Thank you for posting a very informative video to help anyone who has Weber ICT’s and EMPI EPC carbs.
No problem. Glad to help.
Roxanne sounded happy with that fresh tune and some time out of the barn 🤙
Great vid. A lot of great tips. I will be putting in some Weber 34 ICT in my 1970 bus (CB Performance Linkage). This was super helpful. One question...that rubber seal on the bottom pan, I see yours is on top. I have one that is split and has two flaps. Do they split the pan with one underneath and one on top or do you have both flaps on the top?
Yea sir, that style is meant to split one on top and one below. Not an easy chore! I learned to to proactively manipulate/tend to the places of the seal AS IM PUTTING THE ENGINE IN. It can be a doozie to try and situate it afterwards.
@@bomberobus I put in a new exhaust and pulled that pan....that is when I noticed the split seal and both "halves" were under the pan. I will get back in there and see if I can put it in properly. BTW - How do you like your Dual Weber 34 ICT? There are some people very against these carbs. Can I ask what jets you are using? Mine came with F78 emulsion tubes and from what I can gather the F6 is the preferred for a VW 1600 motor. What are you using for all your jets?
Your guidance worked perfectly for me. Thanks man!
Music to my ears! Happy dubbin🤙🏼
I live in Corpus Christi Texas , and I would have to go to San Antonio or Houston to get to a machine shop ? I have a 71 bus named Rambus it has a dp1600 with d-port heads a W100 cam and a 32-36 progressive.and quiete pack.Here if you need your case rebuilt you mise well buy a new one . This week it had a knock noise every time I hit a bump or hit the brakes.-maybe the ball joints no it was a can of Raid I had in the back that would roll up and hit the pass.seat wall . Thanks for Video B.B.
Rambus….I love it! Yeah seems like the machine shop days are close to over, but man the cases are so expensive. At least you found your knock…rolling raid can?😂
Sounds like a nice torquey engine for Rambus. Happy V-dubbin in Texas.
Thanks for the very helpful video, for the UK, Man 😊
Hello in the UK! Glad it was helpful.
Just picked up my 58 and gotta mess with the carbs, thanks for the video
58? Nice! Good luck with the carbs. It can be challenging but it’s quite a feeling when you got em hitting perfect!
@@bomberobus all kinds of problems today just changing my alternator, fans rubbing on the doghouse, ran out of daylight battle tomorrow 🤣 it's just lucky it's 🥰
@@campervanbug7658 LOL that sounds the “rabbit hole” I always think about whenever I touch anything on a VW. You start one thing and just don’t know where else it’ll end up. You’re right, gotta love it or it’ll make ya mad 😂
@@bomberobus oh I'm digging 🤣🤟
5 yrs with this kit ran perfectly . Now Miss fire under load . Change out plugs wires also switch over to electronic ignition. Still have the miss . Thinking one carbs needs rebuild
What u think
I think if you got 5 trouble free years from them then you’ve already won! But a lot of the electronic ignition require a compatible low resistance coil (I think .6 ohm). I had a pertronix that wouldn’t run right due to that because I didn’t know at the time. So I wonder if you have the right coil for your dizzy. Either way, I’d for sure rebuild the carbs anyway. If not completely then I’d at least change needle/seat/washer and check float heights.
Hey Bro great video 😊 You helped me get my carburetors ready, I subscribe
Glad it helped! Thanks for the sub 🤙🏼
hello Mike....made my day finding this video...super big help...I just installed weber 34 ict's....I followed your suggested screw settings...idle 1 1/2 turns out....mixture 2 turns out ...I can not get the carbs to idle..crazy..there is not reason why they shouldn't. fuel pressure is 1.5. any suggestions would help. Thank you.
Hmmmm. Seems best IMO to think outside-in. I know that they don’t idle easily because of the single throat trying to feed two cylinders. Usually cylinders #1 and #3 like to rob a wee bit more fuel from #2 and #4 during idle, but that usually just makes a rough-ish idle that smooths out under acceleration. You might already know that, but I’m just starting methodically. Do you have an electronic ignition?
@@bomberobus hello mike..thank you for getting back to me...yes i have electronic ignition installed in a German Bosch 009. i was able to start the bug and keep things running..timing is at 30* btdc at 3000 rpms...i have to tell you in order to get the motor to start..i had to turn out the idle screws at least 4 turns...seems excessive..not sure why?? so i gave things a rest...fuel mixture is about 21/2 turns out....will go out it again tomorrow....thank you in advance for your guidance..
@@matthewdazzo6395 4 turns? Do you know what size the idle jets are? Anything over 2 turns out usually means you need bigger idle jet. Mine seems to like between 50 and 55 idle jets depending on weather and season etc.
Also the worst time I had idle problems, it was my electronic ignition going bad.
@@bomberobus hello mike..I purchased the carbs from my engine builder..when I first installed them the bug was running rough..but was running better than before I tried to adjust things..I should have left it alone..I do not know what size jets are installed.what I did this morning is texted the engine builder..and asked him if I can send them back for a saving readjustment.waiting to see what he says..if this plan does not work. than I will pull the carbs and review all the jets and get back to you..as far as the electronic ignition..I have never had an issue..always reliable...
@@matthewdazzo6395 that’s cool. Sometimes it gets frustrating. Enjoy the adventure and whatever you learn from it. It’s always something LOL…dub daily
I have those carbs on my beetle, and am having the problem you mentioned about the springs on the carbs not being strong enough to pull the lever against the stop on the carb... Where would I get those springs, also the compression spring on the center lever ?
Hey Michael, I found some standard run of the mill springs at autozone that happened to work out. They also have them at JBUGS.
As for the compression spring in the middle, it was in that engine when I bought the Bus, and I have not been able to locate a source for it. Anyway I don’t use that center one anymore because the springs from autozone worked so well.
@@bomberobus , Thank you for that info, and the quick response !
I noticed you didnt have an SVDA distributor. Would you suggest one?
Sure, my brother runs one and it works great. In my opinion, they’re great for smaller 1600 and less engines that need the extra advance on take off. Once you go bigger than 1600 and do things like stroker and bigger valves etc, you’re revving past the 009 flat spot pretty quickly. Proper jet combo and it’s unnoticeable.
Did u buy an electronic pump ? Or how did u solve the issue with the pressure of the gas ?
Too much to explain but my vid “6 reasons your carbs are flooding” explains it all. For me, the washer/spacer under the needle seat was smashed, so I replaced it, and that cured the Bus, but I also bought a nice Carter electric pump for it.
Now in the bug, it was too much pressure
(6 psi!!!) from a cheaper electronic pump. So I put a regulator in line and that fixed it. Those EPC 34’s from Empi need 3-3.5 psi I’ve found.
why not use feeler guages on that initial setup?....much more accurate and easy to use/do rather than looking for movement etc.
I guess you could, it’d be interesting because it could tell you exactly how out of whack that style of linkage and/or your throttle control lever is. I’ve been using a push-pull linkage since that vid and live it so far.
How's that 34 working for you.? I was thinking about putting some on my 65 bug.
Have a single 40idf..
I’ve had, and continue to have, great success with dual Empi 34’s AFTER putting Redline Weber hardware in them. Good power and mileage on 1800cc. Your 40idf probably doesn’t leak from the galley plugs because it’s a Weber. The last 3 Empi 40’s I’ve seen all leaked.
So far (bang for the buck) dual epc 34’s with Weber hardware, and the CSP BELLCRANK linkage has been the best set up. That linkage makes a crisp throttle response and stays tuned. The hex bar linkage had too many angle changes and little pieces that wore out, causing tuning changes. It’s like I was always re-tuning to the linkage changes. But I do drive it ALOT
Making hp in that moist air☺️
Heavy and humid for sure!
Is there a reason why you have those tins next to the air cleaners?
I think you’re referring to the brackets. Those brackets hold a crossbar that connects the two carburetors to each other. I remove the crossbar, tune each carb individually, then reconnect the the crossbar so the carbs become a team. Good eye, they do look funny😂. They’re so huge that they take away from the good looks of the carbs. That’s one reason I’ve switched to a CSP bellcrank linkage since that vid and I love it! Made a vid on that too! 😎 KEEP ON CAMPIN AND CRUZIN.
When you synced the carbs and dialed in the mixtures did you crimp the balance tube? I can’t see in you video if there’s one installed. In my carbs I crimp the balance tube to get it adjusted
Hey Craig. No balance tubes. They seem to go well without it, but I still think about trying one. But yes I would block off the tube port (or crimp) if I had one. Thanks for checkin!
Thanks Bombero for the info, I run a balance tube on mine and clamp it off when I make the adjustments. Those little Weber ICT or EMPI ECT run very well on any 1600-1776cc when you get the timing and jetting set right. I also found that if you buy the Solex air filters through CB Performance and slap them on it helps with the breathing also since they are a bigger air filter, helps with keeping the intakes cooler. I also run taller manifolds and it helps give an extra boost of power
@@Cpostel77 Wow I am definitely going to try the air filters when I replace them. Where you find the taller manifolds? I want those so the heat creeping up to the carbs (after shut down) has farther to go as well as the little power boost. Good stuff man…appreciated
Scat makes them but I’m running the Empi tall manifolds, I believe Appletree VW parts Carries them. Or any EMPI dealer should be able to get them for you. EMPI 34 EPC are the same as Weber ICT so all parts match up, I did have to run my main jet alittle fatter since the gas has to flow more my it sure makes more power.
Also for my 1776cc the jetting I use is : 60 idle jets, 165mains, 180 air and F6 emulsion tubes. Timing set at 30*. This is all set at Ohio elevation but boy does that VW Bug fly
Can I use PICT carbs instead of PDSIT with the short dual port manifolds? I guess the question is....do they have the same base flange and bolt centers?
Do you need a balance tube line between the manifolds ??
I’ve always loved this subject😎. I mostly subscribe to “if it’s not broken, then don’t fix it” School of thought. On this particular set of carbs, they tuned and idled well, so no balance tube. If I had a problem that I couldn’t tune out, then I’d throw a balance tube at it. So this set of carbs doesn’t “need” the tubes, BUT one day I will add some just to document the effects (good or bad). That’s the only way I’ll ever know for sure. Thanks for checkin it out🤙🏼
Do you know what size jets did you have to use for your engine?
50 Idle, 150 main, 175 air correction, 40 pump inlet valve. I tried a lot of combos, then read the spark plugs. That’s the combo the Bus liked.
Nice!!!!’
Thanks JR 🤙🏼