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🤔 I’d check your car forum or local Indy shop with experience in motorsports. I’d probably go clutch lsd for a lower powered car. The torsen naturally adds some understeer (stability) and can make it hard to maintain an oversteer condition or a drift. The open diff has to go if you like to drift or do any performance driving

@@Milkywave thx for the answer. but im afraid there no clutch type differentials for my car (E60). Only found torsen diffs :/

Ah bummer. The torsen will still give you a lot more control (and fun) than the stock open diff. Fortunately, you can compensate with modifications in suspension, chassis geometry, reverse staggered tires (smaller rear), getting good at clutch kicking, etc, to get your car more drift capable. After writing all that, I checked diffsonline.com - I think they make great diffs for BMWs (used by a lot of top club racers) they make clutch diffs for the E60! diffsonline.com/collections/5-series

@@Milkywave thanks for your help and time buddy, appreciate it !

Nice!! It’s been holding up great, built like a tank!

@@Milkywave how about the engine? N55 have the oil starvation issue? You using a baffled pan? Blocking up the oil piston squirters? How are you getting away with it lol?

The N54 has been rock solid! The baffled pan is only needed on the N55

It behaves well but a proper clutch plate lsd should provide better performance. I didn’t run the car at the track before the Quaife. Personally, the additional 1-2 seconds off lap times isn’t enough for me to upgrade. Unless it’s a dedicated track car, I’d stick with a Torsen diff. If I could go back, I’d choose Wavetrac over Quaife

@@Milkywave Interesting. That's precisely what I'm thinking. My F30's more of a street car and sees the track once or twice a year. Not enough to warrant the need for a true LSD. Why Wavetrac over Quaife? I've seen a lot more Wavetrac failures online and testing that shows their wave shims not working as claimed. Could just be a few bad instances though.

@Marq_Zz for the zero load / wheel lift feature. It happens infrequently but when it does, it can be unsettling with the Quaife. The shop that installed my diff recommended the Quaife over the Wavetrac, but now that it’s been several years and they’ve installed countless Wavetracs, they now recommend the Wavetrac over the Quaife

Old school Quaife helical

Yeahhh I love this car! I’ll keep driving her for as long as possible! I can’t really ask for a better car - rides well on the street, comfortable and practical, has hydraulic steering, gobs of tunable power if needed, under 3300lb, playfully short wheelbase, minimal electronics but still feels refined with a little bit of luxury. This chassis allows me to have plenty of fun for both drifting and track! This car does it all for me in motorsports 🤠

@@Milkywave how did you account for the overheating issues people have talked about when tracking the car? I've also loved your approach to keeping upgrades to only what you think is necessary

CSF radiator and the 1M auxiliary radiator. That’s been enough for me. I’m still only running stock tune so that helps too. I’ll upgrade the oil cooler when I finally up the boost

Yo!! 🙏

Ohhh thx bro!!!

Game changer right there! Yea man car is so fun and good to finally upload another vid

Aren’t they??? 🙌🤘

Zero maintenance, silent operation, and silky smooth engagement. Installed when it was mostly a street car. If I were to do it again, I’d go clutch.

No, tire wear seems even. I do make sure the car is always good with a balanced wheel alignment and even tire pressures. I sometimes use a pyrometer to ensure temperatures are even across the tread and tire set. When doing drift events that is more clockwise or counterclockwise, more tire wear on one side is within expectations.

Thanks so much dude! 👊👊

Wonderful machine 👍

☺️ For cooling, CSF radiator and 1M auxiliary water cooler

Thanks Ron!

Hey! Thanks for the comment bro, it’s good to know there’s a desire for more content on my channel! I haven’t had the opportunity to hit the track this year, but that should change. I do have some sweet footage for a new video - just need to find the time to edit!

@@Milkywave you are one of the reasons I’m looking to get a 135i. Just debating on n54 vs n55 lol

🤘🤘 Go N54 if you plan to push it hard around the track. I’ve come across several who tracked with the N55 and had motor failure. N55’s are good if you plan to keep it on the street tho!

@@Milkywave yeah I was kinda like you just wanting to get to 1m power levels … I would have bet you would have said n55 …. Thanks brother

Thanks! Pilot over machine 👊

Plated diff engages more quickly for easier oversteer and feels better overall for drifting. The torsen diff feels smoother but due to the nature of how it instantly biases torque to the wheel that has less traction, the rear wants to regain grip very quickly - therefore more corrective steering and/or throttle input is necessary to maintain the drift IMO. If this wasn’t a dual duty street car, I’d go to a locking / plated diff !

✌️thx brudda!

@@Milkywave n54 or n55 what is the way to go?

⁠@@fueltexgarage2768n54! I know a handful of drivers who had a n55 which broke down on the track. It’s zero for the n54 as far as I know, and that includes my mechanic who knows a lot of customers tracking the n55 & n54. He agrees. The n55 doesn’t do well with heavy cornering G’s. N54 is rock solid in my book

3.08

How come u didnt choose the 3.46?

The 3.08 already struggles with traction on stock power and a track focused setup (stiffer suspension, bushings, etc). Especially when increasing power and/or upgrading turbos plus lighter flywheel, the 3.08 gearing becomes even more favorable and the much better choice for exiting corners IMHO.

How about the bushing for the diff did u change it or u kept the stock one?and the subframe bushing what do u think about the solid bushing because right now im debating getting the m3 or go with the solid one for the sub frame?

It was the stock one. For the subframe, I’d go solid now if I were to do it again.

Hey, that must be another channel. All I did was use the inlets on the bumper and connected 2.5” hoses with some simple hardware purchased on aircraftspruce (and some cutting using a Dremel) and routed it to the rotor.

+Dawg Thanks brotha!

Nope, not at all

Thanks!!! I hear Toronto is a great place to be, arguably one of the best cities on earth to live - lucky you are 🤙 The Ohlins R&T is on another level of performance compared to the factory suspension while retaining good comfort and street manners. It is a great choice for your needs. Pair it with Dinan camber plates instead of adjustable camber plates like mine as the latter can introduce some NVH. Combined with the 1M bushings and arms, the kit will transform your car!

@@Milkywave Np brother….yes Toronto is a grrreat place to live!!! It would be darn near perfect if the winters were not as long And if we had white sand beaches downtown T.O…… if you like In metropolitan city with a multicultural vibe where you can partake/Experience in many different cultures,,,then the TDot(Toronto) is your place to go!!! Thanks for all the pro tips….Model of Dinan Plates do you recommend(amount of Negative camber wise)?🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾

Toronto is definitely a place I’d like to live. Fortunately, San Francisco is nearby and it’s hard to give up the moderate warm climate here with all the great racetracks around! It’s good to know what you natives call your own city, I didn’t know that 👊 There’s only one choice for camber plates from Dinan - www.dinancars.com/products/suspension-hardware/camber-plates-front-control-arms/camber-plate-kits/parts/D160-0004 It sets your camber optimally (around 2.1°) for the street IMO and the occasional track day.

@@Milkywave hey sorry about the no response but in the last year, my 135 I was written off in a car accident but I recently did a cross country trip to pick one up in Vancouver Canada and drove it back across America with my daughter, so I’m back on the scene, crispy and clean🎉😂. I will take all of your recommendations and see how everything plays out.! What would be a recommendation regarding an LSD? Or would you ever consider a 1M widebody conversion?… and I’m not sure if I already asked this, but did you have trouble fitting 245s upfront? Bless

No worries man, cheers on getting a new 1er! That is what I love about this car, it is such a fun fast car that is comfortable enough for a long road trips🤘 I’d recommend the Wavetrac over my Quaife now but mine has been rock solid through track abuse and drift events with minimal maintenance so it’s hard to knock it. Wavetrac is like the Quaife but has that zero load feature. I think the M-factory has a similar one too but I don’t know much about their reliability so can’t comment on theirs. I do plan on doing the 1M widebody but I’d likely only do the front because this chassis still has quite a bit of understeer. Yes 245 is a no go unless it’s a 245/35. 235/40 has a lot of rub on the top liner of the wheel well. This happens only on the track though

Thanks!! ✌️

Awesome! 👊👊

Thanks bro, yeah you need M3 rear shocks, but worth it IMO - I also shed almost 6lbs of unsprung weight per side with the arm conversion. For the front, you can use a 135i coilover, but some M3 systems (like these) have an adapter for front 135i compatibility.

@@Milkywave Ah I see good to know. Thanks!

@@in54ne82 👌 Note that if you go M3 rear shocks you'll need to change your rear upper shock mount to the 13mm aftermarket ones by Powerflex or Dinan. They're better than the flimsy stock mounts anyway.

@@Milkywave Everytime we change one thing there's always something additional to change on these cars lol. Good to know thanks!

Haha yeah…

👊👊🙏

Cheers! You must find a safe place to test your new setup 👊

Hahaha! Butt clenching = mission accomplished I guess! Glad to hear mate 👊 Thanks for the feedback.

should put underdrive powersteering pulley on, power steering really just allows you to do thing the car doesnt want to do, like that chattering when you understeer it hard asf for no reason, will help you feel what the front tires are doing and what they can do

With the current setup, there’s no chattering and the steering is really smooth. The MCS dampers combined with the M3 bits + camber plates take the car to another level. The factory power steering parts are fine and I can feel exactly what the front tires are doing :) I’ll still curious about this underdrive pulley and will look into it nonetheless!

Thanks bro!

@@Milkywave By any chance when you installed your stoptech big brake kit did you have to do any coding for the bigger brakes at all? Thanks in advance for any information. Just installed f80 m3 380mm brakes on my 135i, rbf 600 fluid, ss lines, ferodo 2500 pads. Brakes stop fine but I feel like they don't have initial bite at all compared to my 335i where I barely tap the brakes and it stops really easy.

Hey, no coding at all. The bite of the BBK is actually similar to stock. The most notable improvement is pedal feel - very firm and much less travel. Brake pad compound could account for some of the difference in bite though.

@@Milkywave That's exactly what they feel like now. Good to know you had the same experience. Possible brake pad compound too.

🤙 Did you have to install the F80 spindles for that?

I think so. That day, the car was on a very staggered setup (235/265) with not enough front camber, so the front was pushing a lot and constantly losing grip mid-drift, often wanting to go into a 4 tire slide lol. I plan to post a few new drifting videos this month, with a less staggered setup that helps quite a bit. More front camber now (-3.1) and also new suspension setup which has made drifting easier and much more fun. The Quaife works even better now :)

@@Milkywave what shocks and springs are you running now? I just put Bilstein B8s and Intrax springs on my car, corners much flatter now, although before the lean flagged when the car would loose traction, now it is a bit more of a surprise! ;-) So do you have multiple sets of wheels then and did you adjust the camber yourself or did you get a wheel alignment done at a garage for that?

@@fabiandee8178 MCS singles with 60mm Swift springs 8kg/14kg. There was occasional coil bind with the previous Ohlins setup (in the front), but that's a thing of the past now. Spring rates are a little stiffer than before, but ride quality has somehow improved. Body control and handling performance is on another level. I do have multiple sets of wheels, and I do alignments myself now.

Without question it's good to have what you mentioned for track purposes. The intent of this video was to show how little you actually need to match the stock 1M. It's much less than many tend to think :] Added power and wider wheels/tires with 1M fenders along with improved heat management would easily get the car in the 1:30's at Laguna.

@@Milkywave Certainly very capable from the factory as most M cars are. Even the heavy M5 has always been a unit on the track. lol Great video I might add

​@@famousmidnight I think the 1M might be my favorite M car, even though it's not the fastest around the track. I love its playful nature, makes you want to go sideways all the time haha. Thanks

No I am not concerned with the N54. I know a few who have raced the N54 hard without a baffle in countless events, and there were no starvation issues even on Hoosiers. The N55 is a different story. A friend actually installed an upgraded oil pan with baffles on his N55, and the engine still experienced starvation on the track and broke down. I’ve also personally met several people on the track who blew their N55 due to oil starvation.

@@Milkywave hey, mad respect for your videos man, they are very awesome and show nice skill, i wanted to ask how capable is the 135i on track? Ive read so many mixed opinions on the forums and some claiming that they are not good track cars, while other have nice results, some even saying some civic si could beat them...I want to buy one for daily and then convert it to a very capable track car in the future (5-6 years), how capable can it be on the track? or should I look for something else?

@@leoteruel2756 thanks bro! I think it is very capable with upgrades to cooling, suspension, and differential. It's not the best track car by any means - there are better, faster options that are more reliable and also cheaper to maintain. I've come across some really fast Miata's and S2000's, some are the quickest around the track. It all comes down to the driver and not the car. Work on your capability as a driver and you'll unlock the potential of any car - which most actually don't do. There's a guy who brings his SUV to the track, and he was passing some track-prepped cars! Personally, I love the car, the way it drives on the street and track. It's also good for drifting. I can fit a lot of things such as 4 wheels and tires. It's a practical car for groceries and road trips :) If you get one for track use, make sure it has the N54 engine.

@@Milkywave I see, yeah the e82 is practical I also love the looks of the car, it just looks amazing for me, I might pull the trigger on an n54 6speed. Keep the good videos, it's nice to see some nice track videos.

@@leoteruel2756 The car looks amazing for me too 🤙 Add the 1M front bumper and fenders, and you'll have one of the best looking cars IMHO and a very capable track car, even on the stock 300hp tune. Thanks, I hope to get back on the track soon and put out some new videos.

As reliable as can be! Probably can’t ask for more reliability out of diff that’s driven hard on the track and at drift events :)

Thanks J!

It’s very good for drifting. I love how it is so smooth and silent which makes it great for the street. I strongly considered upgrading to the OSG, but learned this diff is more than sufficient unless you want maximum control over your drifts (and hold extreme angles) and/or are building a dedicated drift car. Check out my bro doing some serious drifts here: th-cam.com/video/GX9L5C3Ry3U/w-d-xo.html He’s using the same diff :)

@@Milkywave how long have you had it? Has it caused you any problems?

Since 2015. No issues. It starting weeping oil from one of the axle seals after a few years of drifting and numerous racetrack events. It still ran fine though. The leak was so minor I was able to postpone replacing the seal for a couple more years.

@@Milkywave I don’t drift that much but I probably would want to after this diff haha. Do you remember what bushings and seals you purchased along with it? It shouldn’t have leaked

The seals were factory BMW originals that came with the diff pumpkin housing, which was from a junkyard. If you replace with new OE seals at install, you should be fine. The bushings were originals from my car and reused.

😁

I avoid the track on hot days but it should be fine without intercooler or upgraded oil cooler on the stock tune. The stock intercooler sheds heat fairly quickly on the track so it’s okay until you add power. I do run the 335is/1M auxiliary water cooler and use 100% distilled water with 2 bottles of Red Line Water Wetter - but these are more for engine reliability and longevity. I love this car and want to keep her in top health :) Try running a quality motor oil like Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 with distilled water for coolant and see how the car runs on a hot track day. It might be all you need.

I went with 3.08. Yes, the entire pumpkin must be replaced. My shop found a low mileage bolted one from a junkyard so my cost was around $3k fully installed with core swap.

th-cam.com/video/XhoEHnSYFPs/w-d-xo.html cheaper solution for that

Yes the electronic differential is still active with the LSD, but it's pretty infrequent for the most part and seems to work harmoniously together on the track. It seems to only pulse the brakes when you really need it, such as when the rear end gets really loose in the rain at high speeds. The only time I find it intrusive is when you are intentionally trying to drift the car abruptly with power oversteer. Good luck with build, cheers!

Thx! None at all - power is distributed to the wheel that needs it seamlessly.

Super smooth, hard to tell when it engages, almost too smooth. It works in the background and does so very well. It’s an ATB.