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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- Can the 135i keep up with its sweetly ///M-tailored counterpart, the 1M, at a track like Laguna Seca? With some upgrades, it can...while remaining a comfortable daily commuter.
Our benchmark for comparison is the BMW 1M lap time of 1:43.31 at Laguna Seca established by MotorTrend's Pro Driver Randy Pobst. That's pretty quick - not much slower than the E92 M3 with the V8 engine (414hp), in which Randy managed only 0.35 seconds faster. You can watch the hot lap of the 1M here: • 2011 BMW 1 Series M Co...
Compared to the 135i, the 1M is tuned with more power/torque, has wider track grip on wider wheels (9" front & 10" rear), and employs larger brakes, to name a few significant improvements over the 135i.
The 135i just needs a new suspension, camber plates, LSD, wheels/tires, and better brake pads+pistons. Adding power or installing wider fenders are not necessary to match the 1M!
Properly sized brakes are preferable however… Currently, the car needs to be braked earlier than necessary due to lots of brake fade and pedal softness/dropping - at least quarter of a second in T2, T5, T6, T8, and T11. The brake pedal dropped below the gas pedal and made for a challenging heel-toe rev-match. A bigger brake kit is the next upgrade this car really needs!
Future plans are to run wider wheels and tires (9.5" square setup with 265 tires) which will become possible by adding the 1M front body kit with its wider fenders. But for now, brake issues must be solved...and of course, I need more seat time :)
There is another 2 good seconds to squeeze out in this current setup especially once the brakes are sorted.
My list of upgrades to match the 1M:
-Ohlins R&T with Swift springs
-Quaife ATB Limited Slip Differential
-All E92 M3 arms, bushings, front sway bar
-Vorshlag camber plates @ -2.4
-Apex EC-7 18" wheels, 8.5" front / 9.5" rear
-Hankook R-S4, 235 front / 255 rear
-PFC-08 brake pads
-Racing Brake stainless steel pistons
-Castrol SRF brake fluid
Other notable setup info:
-Stock power (Dyno @ 270whp/272wtq)
-Weight @ 3520lbs with driver
-Top moonroof intact (can't live without it on the street :p)
Cameras:
-GoPro HERO 4 Black for main view
-GoPro HERO 3+ Black for pedals
Other notes:
My external GPS device (Dual Electronics XGPS160) stopped working so Harry's Laptimer was unfortunately not active during this lap. (It no longer obtains a GPS signal even with a full charge. Time to look for a another device that is reliable.) The next best thing was to simply overlay the timing animation from the Laptimer app. For best accuracy, the timing overlay starts and stops at the precise frame where the hood visually "touches" the last line before the "Mazda Raceway Cooper Tires" overhead sign.
Credits:
The image of the BMW 1M in this video's thumbnail is a snapshot from MotorTrend's video of the hot lap. Link above.
The short clip of the BMW 1M shown at the beginning of this video is captured from MotorTrend's video of the hot lap. Same link above.
The right image in this video's thumbnail is a captured photo courtesy of Bill Wang Photography.
Many thanks to MT and Randy - learned a lot from your videos!
Song is Foundation by Vibe Tracks.
#lagunaseca #hotlap
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There is another 2 good seconds to squeeze out here, especially once the brakes are sorted. But as fast as the 135i can be, it will likely never be as fun to toss around like the 1M!
Oh, I believe it will be as fun! You're not far away!
I'll dream for now! lol
1M is a 1 series with e92 M3 bits on it . You can build a better car for your requirements than 1M is , which is a collectors car nowadays . Perfomance wise it's restricted , but for the obvious reason . Can i ask what brakes do you have on it , i assume 135i M ones have 6 pot BMW perfomance calipers? Here in UK they do at least.
+mantazini Yes with a few more upgrades, it will surely surpass the 1M. Add a BBK, a tune, wider fenders from the 1M for more wheel/tire, and better engine cooling - I expect it to be faster than the M4, which did 1:39.69.
The brake calipers are the stock ones (6 pot, gray color).
Your brakes are fine , 1M discs are just bigger (floating discs ) but crap caliper like the rest of M division , unless new'ish cars. Some cooling , fluid , pads will do the job . Loads of E46 M3's use same caliper as an upgrade over here . We have few 1M spec 135's here , basically swapped e92 M3 suspension arms , rear end , diff to match , with Light tune they're magnificent. I'm looking forward to see your progress , I have E46 M3 but looking into options for next summer . N54's are very attractive and great units with a bit of tune.
This is the greatest video to explain the difference between 1M and 135i. Amazing lap as well.
Thanks!! ✌️
Super cool showing the footwork whilst being transparent . Good job
Thanks J!
I love ur video set up, the camera placement and the pedal footage too
+Swaggy P Glad to hear, thanks!
Ooooo! Laguna Seca!! Nice!!
Hey there Potato Jet! Happy to see you're still watching my videos! You're becoming famous haha
Milkywave lol. I only have notifications turned on for 3 channels including urs so it's exciting whenever u post something!
Wow...that means a lot. Great to know, thanks bro!
Milkywave- how do you like the Ohlins with the swift springs? Who’d you get them through? Have you considered a 17x9 Square set-up? I’m building a 135i this winter and appreciate this video!!
I love them :D I've considered it, but I'd rather go 18x9.5 square which offers more tire options. Awesome, good luck with the build. Happy to hear, thanks!
These Defintely need a little more power for track use. especially a bigger intercooler for heat management. Will bring those Inlet temps way down. Just a tune, FMIC and downpipes help the turbos spool much quicker
Without question it's good to have what you mentioned for track purposes. The intent of this video was to show how little you actually need to match the stock 1M. It's much less than many tend to think :]
Added power and wider wheels/tires with 1M fenders along with improved heat management would easily get the car in the 1:30's at Laguna.
@@Milkywave Certainly very capable from the factory as most M cars are. Even the heavy M5 has always been a unit on the track. lol Great video I might add
@@famousmidnight I think the 1M might be my favorite M car, even though it's not the fastest around the track. I love its playful nature, makes you want to go sideways all the time haha. Thanks
Awesome stuff, I have a similar setup with Fortune Auto suspension, Mfactory LSD but wider front track with a 1M front-end. My PB at Laguna is 1:43.5ish (ioS backup lost all Harrys data... time for a Solo) a year or so back. Tracking has taken a hit with my new job but would love to connect, are you in the NorCal?
Hey Spencer, good time! Since this video I replaced the brakes with a BBK which was instrumental in shaving off more than a second - really loving this upgrade :)
I wanted to stick with Harry’s but it’s become somewhat unreliable. Last time at Laguna, the final straw was when it reported a 1:40 and quite a few laps in the 41-42 range. It was some pretty inaccurate timing.
Yes in NorCal...you can email me it’s posted in my channel page somewhere (TH-cam is not allowing me to post it here)
My suspension is currently stock and I hate it. Looking at your list of upgrades I’m a bit disappointed because a lot of those are out of my price range. This summer I want to get an M Factory LSD, whiteline 2 piece subframe bushings, and either ST coil overs or the bilstein B12 kit. I’m also considering the FSB and 1M front control arms but I’ve heard people say the FSB increases under steer and the 1M control arms didn’t make a big difference. Did you feel the same way? What would be your top 5 must have mods for handling in order?
Normally a FSB does increase understeer and that is the general principle to follow with suspension tuning, but with the 1 series chassis and its front McPherson struts, a stiffer FSB (but not too stiff, such as from the M3/1M) reduces camber loss during cornering. The 1M control arms do help quite a bit when driving at the limit, which is why many may not feel any difference on the street. Besides better tires and wider wheels, the top 5 handling mods IMO for this car are subframe bushings, camber plates, 1M control arms (both front and rear), dampers/springs, and LSD. And if you can’t do all of the 1M arms in the rear, at least do the guide rods. The FSB can be done later in the priority list.
How’s the water and oil cooling on the track? I’m taking my 135i(N55+DCT) to Laguna next month and frankly after seeing people run into high water/oil temp on the track It worries me. Have you had any mods done in that regards? My car is mostly stock with MHD stage 1 tune, ETS charge pipe, and Carbotech XP10s+RBF600. I’m also installing Vorshlag camber plates this weekend and I hope they’ll eventually pay off with the tires I would’ve ruined otherwise. From your experience running at Laguna, what’s the best camber/toe setting there for normal street tires like PSS so I don’t toast them? Sry if these are too many questions. I’m just trying to gauge before I go there lol. Thanks in advance!!
I run the engine on the stock tune, but oil temps are high - can reach 285F on the track. Water temps are fine. The DCT does run hotter than the 6MT so it may be best to disable the tune at first and see where the temps go. I recommend running at least 90% distilled water mixed with a couple bottles of Redline Water Wetter as your coolant. If you can, install the CSF radiator at minimum, especially if you run sub 1:50 laps at Laguna.
Great choice on the camber plates. A good dual purpose setting for street and track is front camber at -2.4 with 0.05 toe-in or zero toe. Toe is what wears the tires faster, surprisingly not the camber. Some run closer to -3.0 camber with zero toe and report good wear on the street.
Keep in mind, if you push the car more than 8/10ths, the PSS will not last long on the track, regardless of camber setting, unless it’s a cold or wet day. That Michelin compound breaks down easily after a few hard laps. I toasted a brand new set in one track day with laps under 1:50.
How does the Quaife behave at Laguna? Do you have any experience at the track before and after the Quaife? Debating on this or a clutch plate lsd for my F30. Thanks.
It behaves well but a proper clutch plate lsd should provide better performance. I didn’t run the car at the track before the Quaife. Personally, the additional 1-2 seconds off lap times isn’t enough for me to upgrade. Unless it’s a dedicated track car, I’d stick with a Torsen diff. If I could go back, I’d choose Wavetrac over Quaife
@@Milkywave Interesting. That's precisely what I'm thinking. My F30's more of a street car and sees the track once or twice a year. Not enough to warrant the need for a true LSD. Why Wavetrac over Quaife? I've seen a lot more Wavetrac failures online and testing that shows their wave shims not working as claimed. Could just be a few bad instances though.
@Marq_Zz for the zero load / wheel lift feature. It happens infrequently but when it does, it can be unsettling with the Quaife. The shop that installed my diff recommended the Quaife over the Wavetrac, but now that it’s been several years and they’ve installed countless Wavetracs, they now recommend the Wavetrac over the Quaife
Did you ever use OEM suspension on track? I’m thinking of just getting Vorshlag plates with OEM suspension (-3 camber)
Yes, and the shoulders of my tires would get destroyed by the end of the day with -2 camber. So the plates are a must with max camber along with higher tire pressures.
Which one did u get quaife 3.46 or 3.08?
3.08
How come u didnt choose the 3.46?
The 3.08 already struggles with traction on stock power and a track focused setup (stiffer suspension, bushings, etc). Especially when increasing power and/or upgrading turbos plus lighter flywheel, the 3.08 gearing becomes even more favorable and the much better choice for exiting corners IMHO.
How about the bushing for the diff did u change it or u kept the stock one?and the subframe bushing what do u think about the solid bushing because right now im debating getting the m3 or go with the solid one for the sub frame?
It was the stock one. For the subframe, I’d go solid now if I were to do it again.
Hey is your 135 an N54 or N55?
N54
You need an automatic you shift so bad it s embarassing
Meh, its about the stock car, not about a tuned up 135i.. useless comparsion
What mods, as few as possible, are needed to get 1M performance on the track? I wanted to answer that question. There are already videos that compare the stock 135i to the 1M, and the 1M is sooo much of a better car.
Understandably, many seem to believe that the 135i requires certain upgrades - and MANY of them - especially a widebody kit and tune in order to match the 1M. This video was simply made to help others know that the list of mods is much shorter than one may think! 😊