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Yeah, prices have come down, at the time the video was posted the price paid was the lowest anywhere in the US.

It shouldn't matter, because you shouldn't be removing any material in the area that will get epoxy. You will only be bedding just forward of the V block extending rearward to the opening for the trigger housing. You may want to drill some small dimple holes in a pattern to give the epoxy something to grab onto, though I did not.

I would install the original parts, you don't want it going bang when you don't want it to.

Suppressors will require a booster on anything with a tilting barrel, like a 1911 or a Glock. You don't want a booster for a blowback or gas operated fixed barrel. Look at what silencers are commercially available for your set up from somewhere like SilencerShop.

The age is not an issue. ATF might ask for a picture of what you have that you intend to make into a silencer. If it remotely looks anything like a silencer, e.g. a tube, ATF may consider that to already be a silencer even if it doesn't function or can not be attached. It depends if they believe it can be "readily converted" or not.

@@jcnikoley can I tell them I’m going to make it a suppressor and have it registered Once I drill it out ?

@@kombatboiiii5747 I'd recommend against that. If all you need to do is drill it out, the ATF considered a suppressor already.

Probably shouldn't disable the other safety features either. Timney trigger deletes 2 of 4 of them.

@@jcnikoley After extensive drop and other safety tests with the Timney, zero occurrence of failure. I'm good with that however I personally carry with stock Glock trigger for the same reason plus its more reliable.

@@3nealweber3 I agree.

Either thing should work just fine.

Cars have more than one safety feature. Glocks have four. The timney eliminates two saftey features.

A couple things could cause that, a worn striker being one. Others include anything that affects striker/sear engagement. It happened to me with an aftermarket connector.

@@jcnikoley stock connector Il take her a part when I get home. Thank you just shocked it surpassed the trigger safety

@@clayramsey019 The trigger safety alone cannot prevent that. If the trigger is forward, the striker block should block the striker. If an original (not timney or glock competition) trigger, the striker should not be sprung with enough force to fire a round if the safeties or sear fail.

@@jcnikoley I hear you. Ditch the Timney?

@@clayramsey019 If it's for carry, yes. That's what I did.

There are no websites that sell “kits” that I’m aware of.

@@jcnikoley Where did you buy yours?

@@rickgreer4263 The company that I purchased the materials I used to manufacture my silencers were ordered after I had approved form ones. They are not around anymore. Anywhere you can purchase raw materials would be a good place to start after you have an approved form one. The ATF considers any parts in your possession that you intend to manufacture into a silencer a completed silencer. 🤷‍♂️ That could be a pillow, or a 2 liter bottle. Basically, it’s extremely rare now for the ATF to approve any form ones as there’s no way you can not intend to make one if you’re applying for a form one. I’d now recommend purchasing one from a licensed dealer through the form four process. Consider any thing that you see for sale that you believe could easily be made into a silencer as a trap.

I’m using a BOG death grip at the moment because I only have one rifle with an arca-swiss rail. I don’t think this tripod would hold up to heavy recoil, it’s pretty light and not as strong as heavier tripods. It can handle 20 pounds of weight, and can pack up small so is a good option to carry with you if you’re on foot. For a dedicated shooting tripod, I find it hard to swallow over $1000. I think this would be a good option for hunting, but not for competition.

@jcnikoley I went with a Suiri Tripod. I'll see how it goes in a couple weeks.

Thanks. Good luck with your project.

Thanks. They say beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I find the beauty of the Glock design is it’s simplicity. I wouldn’t worry about having a competent Gunsmith go through and improve the trigger. It’s just polishing and maybe replacing the disconnector with the lighter Glock disconnector. I wouldn’t go any further than that for a carry gun. I have a competition Glock with a 2 1/2 pound trigger and a much shortened take up. I wouldn’t carry that, but I have every confidence in it as a comp gun.

Quite a few others use a similar design, Sig and Walther, etc. A “better” trigger pull sells more guns.

Do you know that Glock’s “drop safety” has nothing to do with dropping of a firearm, but it’s a physical block to prevent the sear from disengaging, until the trigger is pulled to the rear? Timney bypasses that feature.

@@jcnikoley oh, I am well aware of how it works. I have three Timney triggers and I own six or seven Glocks and I can drop each one of them from the ceiling to the floor without the striker releasing. There is also a set screw/C clamp on the base of the seer block mechanism which can be adjusted so if you are having issues with drop safety, it can be fixed.

@@jcnikoley and I have purchased many a drop in trigger kits that even with a solid cruciform still, we’re not drop safe because of glocks tolerances I needed to be adjusted tweaked or made so to function properly Timney triggers are no different

@@jcnikoley the video is all hypothesis. I suggest you make another one primed, casing, safety plunger, installed and drop the shit out of that gun and prove me wrong and then send it to my house. If it does go bang and I will fix it for you.

@@dustinglover9731 The Timney trigger holds the striker to the rear without the trigger being pulled. That is a change to the Glock original design and not a theory. The seer is not a physical part of the trigger bar which rides along the drop safety until the trigger is to the rear, disabling the drop safety. That is not a theory, that is as it is. I’ve been doing some gunsmithing for a over 30 years, I think I can manage without your assistance.

Carbon can accumulate that can hinders the plunger from returning to the down/block position. It’s also possible for it to hang up due to a failed spring. It is something that people may not check, and instructions to remove it (to properly clean it) are not in the instruction manual. Not be an issue provided all the other safeties were in place as designed.

@@jcnikoley yea but if the plunger safety has failed, a strong enough blow could disconnect the sere sending the firing pin forward. Correct?

@@EvanWilson-d6h Correct.

It’s a TH-cam no no to post a direct link, but you can find it by Google searching “midwest industries suppressor width handguard”. 1st link on top of results.

I just went with the BR trigger, I haven’t tried anything else, but almost anything would be an upgrade to the factory stock trigger. I did some additional gunsmithing to mine though. It’s not something I can show on TH-cam anymore, but there’s older videos that go over what surfaces need to be polished etc. I would say not to attempt that if you’re not 100% confident, as some of the parts are only surface hardened.

Yes. You need the paperwork filed and returned approved before you build anything or acquire any parts.

@@jcnikoley that’s kinda of dumb how they can do that

Prices have come down. Champion is decent ammo. The range pack I reviewed looks very similar, but it is a completely different ammo. $60 is a bit pricey for this ammo today. There are much better choices out there for the same price or less.

Not familiar enough with the Walther to say for sure, but looking at an exploded diagram appears that pulling the trigger does not cock the striker, meaning when it’s pre-loaded, it’s loaded with enough stored energy to fire a round. In any pistol design like this, it would be very important to keep the plunger that blocks the striker clean so that it won’t hang up.

@@jcnikoley ok noted thanks

Keep in mind, any mass you add or take away from the barrel, especially the muzzle changes the harmonics, which can improve or hurt your accuracy. You’ll just have to try it on your own rifle to see the result, but I would be happy with sub MOA and not mess with it.

i’m going to roll the dice… hopfully at the very least it doesn’t hurt accuracy!!!

@@nelsonm5032 You can always change it back if it doesn’t work out. Good luck.

I just ordered a 5.7 PSA rock actually. I've been impressed with my PSA purchases for the price so far.

It was at 30 yards. Ruger 10/22, 22lr. I shot from prone position with a scope. Unsupported would be more difficult, but 10 yards and .45 would help make it easier to do. Keep trying until it happens. I suggest using a Semi Wadcutter type bullet if that’s an option.

@@jcnikoley I do it with my 45 cal or with my 22 target pistol at ten yards , I ‘ve always said my way of spiting cards, at 10yard , first the gun must be very accurate and off course the shooter hand, if the pistol can not group shoot after shoot on a machine rest it will never be able to split the card at all times, a pistol for carry like Glock or any pistol that will accept a group size acceptable 2 to 3 inch will never consistently split a card, the pistol on a machine rest must be one hole in 5 shoots, then that is what I call accurate pistol and with that pistol I can split cards at 10yards consistently . I don’t know how to send you of my picture splitting cards with my 1911 pistol.

Nothing would have happened unless the striker block were stuck as can happen when dirty. The purpose was to show nothing blocks the sear from releasing other than mechanical friction and spring pressure. Standard Glock, the sear surface is physically blocked from releasing until the trigger is to the rear.

Or if the firing pin block sticks because it’s dirty, and /or worn damaged parts.

he did that to prove that the striker willreach past the cruciform unlike what timney said. LISTEN

What’s bullshit exactly? Not that the Timney design keeps the striker fully cocked without any pressure on the trigger. This is easily verifiable as fact. This is the same feature as the Sig 320 has that creates a possibility of a fire event without a trigger pull when another mechanical part fails. That is not possible in the Glock original design because the striker is only cocked fully by pulling the trigger to the rear. The most simple way to describe the difference is a Glock uses double action to cock the striker, the Timney is single action only. Glock refers to the “double action” of the FCG in Glocks as “Safe Action”. The Timney deletes that feature.

The possibility of an accidental discharge is in this video liberately made by forcefully manipulating the internal parts of the trigger mechanism. There is still the firing pin safety plunger preventing the striker from reaching the cartridge primer. So I stand by my meaning "bullshit theory".

@@ronnyrenwall1336 The striker was only able to be “forcefully” released because there’s nothing blocking the sear. It’s only held in place by spring pressure. I acknowledged the striker block. I’m not carrying a Glock with internal safety features deleted.

U MUST HAVE A TIMNEY LOL. Its not drop safe dude. its for competition only

You can try, the problem is the ones I showed pictures of are already completed. You have to have an approved form one before you complete your build not for something that ships completed. Now, the ATF considers any part you intend to modify to become a part of a silencer as a silencer, so you can’t even build one from a parts kit, you now have to start from a billet and machine it out from scratch.

@@jcnikoley thank you for the information!