Great video and it gave me an idea. I have a synthetic All Weather 10/22 that I’ve had for years. I just sent the bolt, barrel and receiver to Connecticut Precision Chambering for some work, Randy can do the bolt, the barrel setback, replace the sport chamber to a match and I also had him thread the barrel. While it’s been gone I ran across your video and I looked at my bare stock realizing it will be much easier to bed than the wood stock. I know I could buy a cheap stock but I really like the balance and feel of the All Weather. It has some parts you wouldn’t recognize like a Volquartsen drop in trigger and now the accuracy will be much better after Randy finishes his part so it’ll be a sleeper for sure. Thanks for a great video
When bedding the action, it is a good idea to also bed the rear end of the actiion since there is often space in that spot. Wrap tap around the barrel to keep it centered in the stock when bedding the action. Once the action is bedded, no need to worry about exact torque for the action screw. The only time the action screw tightness will change accuracy is when the barreled action contacts the stock under the barrel and to the rear of the action screw. Tightening the action screw then creates pressure between the two points that will flex the barrel. Once the barrel is free floating and the action is tight, the screw just needs to be snug. On a side note, there is possibly insufficient stability with the way the 10 22 barrel attaches to the action to be stable enough to free float. A good insurance is to continue the bedding under the first few inches of the barrel. And then there is "barrel harmonics" and the controversy goes on and on.....
I saw a few people use Hornady's "One Shot" spray in leu of the shoe polish as a bedding release. It seems to be possibly a much quicker, easier, and possibly more complete method of prepping your action before bedding.
The first step I did when I got all the parts to build my 10/22 is,,,,,,,,,,REPLACE THOSE TWO FRIGGING PINS IN THE TRIGGER ASSEMBLY THAT KEPT FALLING OUT MAKING ME CRAWL AROUND ON THE FLOOR TO FIND THEM! They are .123" and probably should have been .125". I took an extra long drill bit I had that was .127" and cut a couple replacement pins off the shank that were snug enough in the trigger housing so as to not move unless pushed with a little force. For the upper one that had the spring against it, I could have just cut a groove for the spring end to keep it from moving just in case, but went with a snug fit instead.
archangel20031 Yeah, it’s annoying how easily they fall out. Good solution. I imagine the oversized pins may improve the trigger feel slightly as well.
@@jcnikoley I don't think they'll affect the trigger in anyway because the lower one held the magazine lever and was it's pivot pin, and the other held that floppy flat secondary ejector mounted on the trigger housing that likes to fold back next to the hammer and hide itself.
Good going man keep the videos coming. There's not enough 10/22 stuff out there that's current. Also come see me on Michigan's Ruger 10/22 enthusiast and Friends on Facebook groups.
It shouldn't matter, because you shouldn't be removing any material in the area that will get epoxy. You will only be bedding just forward of the V block extending rearward to the opening for the trigger housing. You may want to drill some small dimple holes in a pattern to give the epoxy something to grab onto, though I did not.
Do your trigger drop it to 2 to 3 lbs free float the barrel.I have a 920. bull.barrel on my 10/22 and i did the trigger job and with 3 different 22lr it shoots 1/2 in groups all day at 50 yrds.
JC, There are so many ways to skin that cat and I won't say your way is better or worse for it. I just do not necessarily fall into the way of thinking that a free floating barrel is the way to go. It has its advocates more today then it did back in the hay days of .22 LR rifle competition. Check out Al Freeland and his championship rifles: www.rockislandauction.com/riac-blog/tack-driving-target-rifles-of-uncle-al-freeland What you will notice is that Al believed in pressure bedding the barrel up at the fore stock with an elaborate barrel ring system. I own a Win 52 circa 1950 barreled action sold by Al Freeland; who actually did the gunsmithing on the rifle has been lost to time, but it does have the elaborate barrel ring system in the bottom of the stock. It happens to be a prone rifle. Just food for thought, as some today have had great success from bedding the barrel all the way up the the barrel channel in the stock on CZ 455's. Go figure. You really want to have some fun? Get a bore scope and run down so you can see the chamber area - stick an unfired round in the chamber and wiggle it around. It will make you wonder how it shoots straight at all. I would like here your thoughts and comments on how well this has worked for you, and on the information I have shared with you. CH
Chuck Howard I’ve heard of pressure bedding, and I think I grasp how it works to improve accuracy. It’s another method, although I think free-floating is much simpler to do. The problem with pressure bedding is that the stock becomes a part of the barrel, which means anything touching the stock will also be affecting the harmonics. Not a problem with a light recoiling .22, but more powerful calibers you’ll be better off free-floating which is why I think every top competitor that shoots centerfire PRS is shooting rifles with free-floated barrels.That said, pressure bedding is still done, it just usually is limited to the first couple inches of the barrel, or the action only. In a nutshell, full length pressure bedding works by dampening vibrations, free-floating works by allowing the barrels natural vibrations to be unaffected. Larger caliber’s, it’s harder to dampen those vibrations.
to be honest I was afraid to do it myself & I watched a video & believe me it was so simple & easy & I don't have good pulse it came out very nice before you drill the hole put a piece of tape wer ever u want it mark it with a pen mark the drill bit the same depth as the screw on the rear one you can put it at 2 "1/2 inches or 2" 1/4 trust me if did it anyone can do it is that simple
I just went with the BR trigger, I haven’t tried anything else, but almost anything would be an upgrade to the factory stock trigger. I did some additional gunsmithing to mine though. It’s not something I can show on TH-cam anymore, but there’s older videos that go over what surfaces need to be polished etc. I would say not to attempt that if you’re not 100% confident, as some of the parts are only surface hardened.
Yeah, covid lockdown boredom. I have a shooting range in my backyard that allows me to do testing. Because it is a lightweight barrel and a heavy steel brake, the additional mass affected the barrel harmonics improving accuracy. Not that it’s needed for recoil mitigation, but at 18 power through a scope, the crosshairs do not move off point of aim like it did before, so it actually did have an effect in that regard as well. Below a certain weight, even a .22 can benefit from a muzzle break which is why you see them being used in steel challenge rimfire open division. Most .22s built for bench rest accuracy are much heavier so a break would serve no purpose.
Great video and it gave me an idea. I have a synthetic All Weather 10/22 that I’ve had for years. I just sent the bolt, barrel and receiver to Connecticut Precision Chambering for some work, Randy can do the bolt, the barrel setback, replace the sport chamber to a match and I also had him thread the barrel. While it’s been gone I ran across your video and I looked at my bare stock realizing it will be much easier to bed than the wood stock. I know I could buy a cheap stock but I really like the balance and feel of the All Weather. It has some parts you wouldn’t recognize like a Volquartsen drop in trigger and now the accuracy will be much better after Randy finishes his part so it’ll be a sleeper for sure. Thanks for a great video
Thanks. Good luck with your project.
as soon as I noticed the socks and flipflops, it became more than I could bare.
That just looks flat-out uncomfortable! Lol It's all I could look at!
When bedding the action, it is a good idea to also bed the rear end of the actiion since there is often space in that spot. Wrap tap around the barrel to keep it centered in the stock when bedding the action. Once the action is bedded, no need to worry about exact torque for the action screw. The only time the action screw tightness will change accuracy is when the barreled action contacts the stock under the barrel and to the rear of the action screw. Tightening the action screw then creates pressure between the two points that will flex the barrel. Once the barrel is free floating and the action is tight, the screw just needs to be snug. On a side note, there is possibly insufficient stability with the way the 10 22 barrel attaches to the action to be stable enough to free float. A good insurance is to continue the bedding under the first few inches of the barrel. And then there is "barrel harmonics" and the controversy goes on and on.....
I saw a few people use Hornady's "One Shot" spray in leu of the shoe polish as a bedding release. It seems to be possibly a much quicker, easier, and possibly more complete method of prepping your action before bedding.
Either thing should work just fine.
+10 accuracy with socks and sandals.
Those aren’t socks… They’re sweat compensators.
@@jcnikoley trade you some 9mm for them.
@@jcnikoley ATF has joined the chat
The first step I did when I got all the parts to build my 10/22 is,,,,,,,,,,REPLACE THOSE TWO FRIGGING PINS IN THE TRIGGER ASSEMBLY THAT KEPT FALLING OUT MAKING ME CRAWL AROUND ON THE FLOOR TO FIND THEM!
They are .123" and probably should have been .125".
I took an extra long drill bit I had that was .127" and cut a couple replacement pins off the shank that were snug enough in the trigger housing so as to not move unless pushed with a little force. For the upper one that had the spring against it, I could have just cut a groove for the spring end to keep it from moving just in case, but went with a snug fit instead.
archangel20031 Yeah, it’s annoying how easily they fall out. Good solution. I imagine the oversized pins may improve the trigger feel slightly as well.
@@jcnikoley I don't think they'll affect the trigger in anyway because the lower one held the magazine lever and was it's pivot pin, and the other held that floppy flat secondary ejector mounted on the trigger housing that likes to fold back next to the hammer and hide itself.
Good going man keep the videos coming. There's not enough 10/22 stuff out there that's current. Also come see me on Michigan's Ruger 10/22 enthusiast and Friends on Facebook groups.
Hi there, working on my own thanks for the vid. Should I bed before resealing the wood, or should i reseal the wood first, and then bed with epoxy?
It shouldn't matter, because you shouldn't be removing any material in the area that will get epoxy. You will only be bedding just forward of the V block extending rearward to the opening for the trigger housing. You may want to drill some small dimple holes in a pattern to give the epoxy something to grab onto, though I did not.
how did this work out? to me, seems like 22 should be bedded, full length, so you get a structured barrel for almost no money....given the caliber....
What a sexy rifle
Do your trigger drop it to 2 to 3 lbs free float the barrel.I have a 920. bull.barrel on my 10/22 and i did the trigger job and with 3 different 22lr it shoots 1/2 in groups all day at 50 yrds.
There needs to be more better quality videos on doing a trigger job.
JC,
There are so many ways to skin that cat and I won't say your way is better or worse for it. I just do not necessarily fall into the way of thinking that a free floating barrel is the way to go. It has its advocates more today then it did back in the hay days of .22 LR rifle competition. Check out Al Freeland and his championship rifles: www.rockislandauction.com/riac-blog/tack-driving-target-rifles-of-uncle-al-freeland What you will notice is that Al believed in pressure bedding the barrel up at the fore stock with an elaborate barrel ring system. I own a Win 52 circa 1950 barreled action sold by Al Freeland; who actually did the gunsmithing on the rifle has been lost to time, but it does have the elaborate barrel ring system in the bottom of the stock. It happens to be a prone rifle. Just food for thought, as some today have had great success from bedding the barrel all the way up the the barrel channel in the stock on CZ 455's. Go figure. You really want to have some fun? Get a bore scope and run down so you can see the chamber area - stick an unfired round in the chamber and wiggle it around. It will make you wonder how it shoots straight at all.
I would like here your thoughts and comments on how well this has worked for you, and on the information I have shared with you.
CH
Chuck Howard I’ve heard of pressure bedding, and I think I grasp how it works to improve accuracy. It’s another method, although I think free-floating is much simpler to do. The problem with pressure bedding is that the stock becomes a part of the barrel, which means anything touching the stock will also be affecting the harmonics. Not a problem with a light recoiling .22, but more powerful calibers you’ll be better off free-floating which is why I think every top competitor that shoots centerfire PRS is shooting rifles with free-floated barrels.That said, pressure bedding is still done, it just usually is limited to the first couple inches of the barrel, or the action only.
In a nutshell, full length pressure bedding works by dampening vibrations, free-floating works by allowing the barrels natural vibrations to be unaffected. Larger caliber’s, it’s harder to dampen those vibrations.
Mine doesn't have swivels, but don't want to drill and install myself. Should I send it to Ruger Co. & have them do it?
to be honest I was afraid to do it myself & I watched a video & believe me it was so simple & easy & I don't have good pulse it came out very nice before you drill the hole put a piece of tape wer ever u want it mark it with a pen mark the drill bit the same depth as the screw on the rear one you can put it at 2 "1/2 inches or 2" 1/4 trust me if did it anyone can do it is that simple
I've watched a few stock in ebay I said to myself if I mess it up you can always buy a new stock they're not expensive
What about the receiver & lower trigger group? What are your thoughts?
I just went with the BR trigger, I haven’t tried anything else, but almost anything would be an upgrade to the factory stock trigger. I did some additional gunsmithing to mine though. It’s not something I can show on TH-cam anymore, but there’s older videos that go over what surfaces need to be polished etc. I would say not to attempt that if you’re not 100% confident, as some of the parts are only surface hardened.
Did you put a brake on a 10/22?!
Yeah, covid lockdown boredom. I have a shooting range in my backyard that allows me to do testing. Because it is a lightweight barrel and a heavy steel brake, the additional mass affected the barrel harmonics improving accuracy. Not that it’s needed for recoil mitigation, but at 18 power through a scope, the crosshairs do not move off point of aim like it did before, so it actually did have an effect in that regard as well. Below a certain weight, even a .22 can benefit from a muzzle break which is why you see them being used in steel challenge rimfire open division. Most .22s built for bench rest accuracy are much heavier so a break would serve no purpose.
What did you use for cheek riser
This www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/stock-parts/stock-hardware/cheek-pieces/10-22-universal-titan-cheek-rest-prod117749.aspx
@@jcnikoley thanks dude. Great video