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Glad to hear it helped. Nicely done!

Nicely done on the LED replacements. I'm happy with the LED bulbs for the brightness and lack of heat the old bulbs would put off. If they are to ever fail, I'll update in the comments.

Good idea to keep fingerprints off of the bulb. Can wipe it down afterwards as well.

Appreciated. Technically it's 4.9 quarts, including the oil filter. Always check your oil and top off to what your dipstick is saying, assuming it's the factory dipstick. If you only drained 4.5 quarts, only replace 4.5 quarts.

Thank you for the kind words.

don't get it

Appreciate your attempt at paying attention and catching me out. Brake fluid has been changed a year ago or so.

In the video, you can't see the depth between the wing and the brake light cover. You could try with a thin screwdriver at an angle, but I went with the easiest route that would yield the least potential for stripping the screw heads: it was only 4 Phillips screws to take off the wing so that's the way I'd suggest taking off the brake light cover.

Yeah, I bought the oil splash pad I'm going to use shortly to do my annual oil change. The lack of care by a random is why I do my own oil change, and I see why you would get frustrated with that. I agree on the oil life meter.

Nicely done, and I'm glad the video helped. The hot water made it easy.

You can fill the filter if you prefer.

I've not worked on a Chevy Spark. I'm sure if you search in TH-cam you'll find someone who has and that video will help.

Bummer. Hope you get it sorted soon.

Nicely done. I'm sure your Spyder will love you for many years for doing this for her!

Good riddance!

@@Steven-zj2yw 🤭 just kidding

It's a pain when you had some background music you try and cover up with TH-cam's tools, but at least it allowed me to keep the video up. Thanks for watching.

Appreciate the comment. Hope it helps some folks.

Good tip, thank you

@@wellingtonviking Thank you! I've been enjoying having the rear wiper working thanks to your video. I've had my MK4 golf for about two years now and it has not worked the whole time I had it!

@@murderWhornets Amazing how much we never knew we would love the rear wiper until we don't have it.

I haven't had a reason to check as yet. Next time I change the oil in March I'll give it a knock with my knuckle and try and stick a magnet on it. Have you reached out to the dealer to see what they say it is?

@@wellingtonviking It's made of steel

Thank you for following up with that info.

Learning experience for all.

It just came with everything that shows in the video. Sorry, it's been a couple of years so I can't remember the specific washer that was included.

Hey there, yes, as I mentioned in the video, I have a dicky drain plug, and didn't want to take it out, which is why I opted for the top end drain option.

@@wellingtonviking I appreciate your video. Just did this with my 1994 LS 400. Cheers!

​@@andrearatkovic4048 nicely done. Great job keeping the LS 400 going. Well-built vehicles.

Just have a look at it, and when it's dirty, change it. The time factor is really just in conjunction with the mileage, and how dirty the air has been around you while driving. If you don't drive much, and you're in a clean air area, it'll last longer than if you live on a dirt road or there have been wild fires around you, etc. Thanks for the comment.

The housing wasn't completely destroyed on mine. The metal female fuse holder that holds the male fuse legs was intact and in good condition. It looked worse than it was due to the fried plastic. If the metal is completely melted on yours, the light tester wouldn't work. If the metal pieces are damaged, it would be worth replacing.

@@wellingtonviking I think the metal female pieces are a bit skewed but a test light works on them.

@@vampir335 I'd look at it this way: if they are weakened and brittle, the whole part should be changed. If they still are strong, and just have some sort of superficial discoloration, I'd try a new fuse.

You have some wrong information there boss, at least in the United States. You can use a quality oil filter, even if not Honda branded, due to the Magnuson-Moss Act, from my understanding.

The crush washer being slightly larger than the head of the bolt is ok. If it's the wrong size (too large) washer, it might not sit flat if it hits the part of the oil pan where it curves up, which would be bad.

Yes, the Redline MT-90 is GL4 75W90

Appreciate the comment. The messiest part is when you wrap the oil filter in the plastic bag, and, of course, if you don't have a no spatter pad for your oil drip pan. Outside of the mess, which, when you've learned from your mistakes, is less the next oil change, it's an easy oil change. Sticking your head under the hood a minimum of once or twice a year is never a bad thing, even on a newer vehicle. Changing your oil gives you a good reason to give your truck a closer look.

Appreciate the feedback. Hope you're out road testing now.

Let us know when you're tracked down the issue. Best of luck.

Sounds like you're thinking Celsius and I was talking about Fahrenheit.

Good tip. A Harbor Freight special could just do the trick.

@@wellingtonviking I've had mine for over 10 years now, and I have no regrets buying it full price. But I did splurge on the socket wrenches when it went 40 percent off. LOL.

@@ex8280 Sounds like a great splurge, especially when you find another use for them in the future.

Great outcome.

I have a separate video for that: th-cam.com/video/s0-Fut0PB18/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared

I hope the recommendations of others keep coming without sponsorship: maybe that means the product will work. As I just used the product, I’ll check in in 6 months to a year from now to see if there is any noticeable difference. Initial indications are that the engine is purring along, and though subjective, feels like she’s a bit happier after using The 505 CRO.

Would have been nice for the designers to think of the workers aye?

I haven't tackled that job as yet. Did you end up finding what you were looking for, and can you share?

I'm going to get a splatter pad for the next time to avoid the mess, and the physiological distress! Thanks for watching.

Best of luck. It's a tight space. When the hatch closes the bare wires are likely shorting out against either other wires, or the metal of the hatch. Good bonding experience with the Golf! Let us know how it goes.

So frustrating I know.

glad it worked for you

yes - thanks for posting! @@wellingtonviking

I know some folks like to reuse the washers. If it works for you, great. The way I look at it is for a few pennies, not having to deal with a potential future drip is worth it for me every 12 months.

thanks for the tip

Glad it helped.

Nope. Added to my personal vehicle. No promos here.

Clean California unsalted roads and a skid plate keep things pretty tidy in this area. Spoiled I know.

Excellent outcome. Appreciate the comment, and glad it helped.

Same here. I replaced my whole fuse box to be on the safe side. Mine was very melted

You definitely have to get under there a bit. I'm using the Daytona DJ3000. Here's the link to the Harbor Freight site with specifications: www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-low-profile-super-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-yellow-63183.html

I have the same 3-ton Daytona low profile jack you have and I had to sell it on FB because it was not long enough to jack from the jacking points. I tried to jack it from the pinch welds, but there are plastic trim pieces covering up the length of the pinch weld that wouldn’t allow me to have the jack in place and place a jack stand on the pinch weld. Gonna go buy the long reach 3-ton low profile jack tomorrow.

@@FamousSASkater how did the long reach work for you? The full barnwood 2x4 (actual 2x4, rough cut, not nominal) got the car up enough for me (stock suspension) to slide the jack under, though it was still tight under there and the first pumps of the jack were small ones.

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Glad it helped!