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@@MrGsxr10001 I have it tuned in to pop and bang a good bit

@@user-oc8xc1eo4i not necessarily for daily driver I would notch the front crossmember for installation ease and oil pan clearance but you don’t need to box the from rail I just did that for support and try and stiffen it up some

@@Ls_swap211 how much room is there when using the holley (white box oil pan). I don't have a welder handy. I am poor

@@user-oc8xc1eo4i it can be done I use the knock off amazon pan that’s the same as Holley and with the notch I got about 2” of room but with out the notch I think you got maybe 1/8” if that All depends on the mounts you use too

@@Ls_swap211 I was going to use holley at least try too. Only cause they make everything for the swap

@@user-oc8xc1eo4ican’t go wrong with the hole kit

@@walterloyd3593 the numbers come back to 98-99 f body

@@walterloyd3593 it was internal from a 06 Silverado

@@YoungerPrice yes n/a with cam and ported stock heads longtubes 28 was max around 7000rpm but from my logs it kinda stays around 26-27 for most of the pull 5000-6900 on 93 octane

I have another video of the day before this pass and I put a clip of my hptuners logging at the end of

​@@Ls_swap211could probably run a little more depending on plugs 28-30

@@YoungerPrice I don’t run any knock sensors so I try stay safe lol

@@Ls_swap211 👍

@@SWR-Motorsports mufflers are welded to the X pipe right at the back of the cab pretty much

@Ls_swap211 that's how I'm doing mine. I mocked them up with and without pipe after the muffler and the more pipe there is after the muffler, the more it sounds like a z71.

@@SWR-Motorsports yep I did same at first and just dumped them out the muffler ends then then the following weekend I finished the rear section I lost some of my tone when I switched from shorty to longtube headers but if I could try anything it would be maybe putting the mufflers at the end of the exhaust from what I seen it makes things more raspy

Where there’s a camera there’s gonna be a burn out lol

Good ol Wv lol

@@Ls_swap211 w.v,,so that's what wrong with the pic lol.

@@ShaneDay365 absolutely lol

@@Blessed_be_Israel thank you It’s a work in progress but I’ve done best I can for what it is lol

@@Ls_swap211 it's a great truck it's coming along nicely I have myself a 1998 s10 I want to do this swap but just want a good strong v8 was thinking a Sbc because I like it more the look old school style

@@Blessed_be_Israel nothing wrong with a old school setup Me and my best bud are both building trucks and I went ls and he went 383 sbc and I’m learning more myself about the non ls stuff lol

@@gojudude under the trans on the crossmember rubber mount Engine and trans sets at 5-6° downwards angle and it makes life rough for the front u joint so I put 1/4” spacer under the trans to get it to a 3.5° angle and it fixed my driveshaft vibration but put the trans in a bind apparently so I pulled the spacer out and I’ll figure out a better way to get lower u joint angles lol

Faulty throw out bearing possibly or quick connect not fully connected ? Are you getting fluid when bleed ? I too am running a stock s10 master with the stock hard line to a quick connect

@@Ls_swap211 new throwout bearing and yea getting fluid out the bleeder hole. Just wondering if you had any problems or I have something going on

@@gojudude I fixed the noises by removing a 1/4” spacer I had put under the trans mount to get it up toward the floor to help pinion angle Removed it and everything went back together It does still make a very slight whine in 5-6th but you gotta roll windows up and listen hard for it It had .100” of play and I read .080” was max spec so I shimmed it down to .018ish

@@marcosmelendez7169 thanks I’m real pleased on how it turned out

Nice build man keep it up!!!

Should of flagged me down lol This thing has been giving me fits lately Bout to pull my hair out 😆

@@Ls_swap211 I will next time I see u out

Did you index your bell-housing? I’m installing a brand new T-56 Magnum from American Powertrain on my 98 S10, and they require indexing the bell for warranty of the T-56. It’s a .005” tolerance. Most folks are out of tolerance with a normal dowel pins. I had to use a .007” offset set of dowel pins to get mine lined up. If you haven’t done this, I would start there. You’ll need an indexing plate. $100. And a dial indicator.

@@joelwhitmore8929 I did not I asked a few buddies that have ran fbody t56 for years and they said they never do it becuase they all come from factory with standard dowels un alingned so I skipped that step lol Looking back now I wish I had and I’m gonna probably pull it soon and align it

Get the harness if you use the 4l60 trans with it I got a wiring schematic for 96 s10 and I’m sure it’s close enough that I can tell you what wires go to what gauges On mine I had to run 2 separate cooling temp sensors because the ls ecu needs 1 and the other goes to the s10 dash but oil psi goes to dash wire and volts gauge reads from the stock s10 positive power bank on driver side fender , fuel gage is left alone if you run stock tank

🙏🏻 thanks I put a lot of work into the sound part lol

My same ones that I ran on stock rear end They was unilug 18x9 but idk the backspace

I thought it was worth it for the sound deadness and keeping heat out some It’s a little work but not very expensive

Thanks

Thanks I can’t talk too much bad about the nv3500 It done me right for 2yrs untill I could afford a t56 and I’ll be honest if it would have made the 2-3 shift @ 6500 I would have prolly kept it longer but all my buddies are out racing and having fun on the streets and it got to me some lol I’m still fighting some major problems though with driveline angle because the t56 was longer and made my front u joint even further off so I got to either come up with a fix or raise the truck back up some and I really like my current stance a lot 😂

I give it some credit though For the price it does awesome but it’s definitely not a performer lol

It is a blast It just keeps getting better with every new part addition lol

Still alive Just happen to come up on a deal locally I couldn’t pass up lol

Thanks It’s not as bad as it seems Depending on the model The 98-up s10 are plug and play if you find a donor 98-up Silverado The older s10s just take a little time but it’s simple stuff once you know what colors goes to what

Thanks It’s a little bit of a learning curve but it’s not that difficult when comparing to rebuilding a 2.2 or 4.3 setup Ever need any help I’m here for questions

Thanks

Thank you 🙏🏻

I made most of it 2” drop spindle with 3” cut coils front 3” block 2” leafs with helper leaf removed

My 4.3 had 260k and had set for 15yrs almost The spider injection was bad when I finally started trying to fire it up

Thanks

I haven’t been real hard on it because it won’t shift above 6000rpm hardly so I don’t bother trying to race much I’m currently putting a t56 and 8.8 as we speak

Hi what's a nv35000?

@@Blessed_be_Israel 5 speed manual transmission

@@Blessed_be_Israel nv3500 is a 5spd transmission from the company new venture It came in a lot of trucks from s10,Silverado,dodge ram,dodge Dakota ,jeep It’s only rated for 300ftlbs of torque and has some odd low gear ratios for pulling with trucks

@@Ls_swap211 Shalom thanks now I know I was wondering but if it's rated only at 300ft of torque it's not meant for racing just normal use then

Trucks a 96 and engine is 99 5.3 Ecu and harness is from a 2000 z28 Yea I got everything working on the dash Speedometer wires into the vss sensor Water temp has to use a sensor from a lt1 Oil pressure sensor from 99 Silverado but isn’t accurate but it works if I every loose preasure I’ll know it Volts works off the s10 body Fuel wires matched up with the sensor in my aftermarket fuel cell It’s all pretty much plug and play with some minor tweaking to it

@@Ls_swap211 Awesome! Thanks!

Thanks !!

Thanks