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Yes, or whatever color clear film you can find. There's an old forum post somewhere where someone used pink film on a pink TI84 SE. They used a different LED lighting method, but the effect was still the same.

Yes, I think so.

I have had one TI83+SE where I needed to reflow the solder on the main chips to get them working again. It didn't have any display so I figured it wouldn't hurt to try. I did need to use a computer to recover a TI84 after it was in a boot loop and putting it in recovery mode.

@@PixelMaker04 damn. i wonder if reflowing the solder will actually do the trick. Boot loop meaning it would just reset none stop? and recovery mode as in the calculator would request to send OS?

I looked for a little while before I uploaded this vid, but I couldn't find any. There might be some available for order in a Chinese warehouse somewhere.

Good luck. Hopefully you can get it working again. It might be one of the metal contacts that needs to be bent back in to place. It sounds like it should be an easy fix anyway.

thanks. let us know how it goes.

you are correct. this was my first attempt and a general overview of how I went about it.

Sorry to hear that. I'm sure you're using this as some learning experience for what not to do one the replacement board. That's one thing I don't like about some of the small ribbon tabs ~ they might be in different latching orientations.

The main ones that felt the most different were the L and R buttons. Start and Select were a bit different as well and the face buttons seemed to have had the least difference. I had to trim some plastic on a couple of the face buttons, though. And yes, the plastic for the 3rd party shells that I used are of a cheaper plastic and an ok mold. It's just not the same if you're not using the OEM parts.

I used the older backlight kit for the original Gameboy and modified it to fit. You can still find them on console5. You can get diffusion paper on Amazon if that's all you're looking for. You might be able to find similar films at a craft store.

Thanks. I still have the calc sitting in a box somewhere, so I could revisit it at a later date. Might also be the polarizing filter like some gameboys. I've got a few of those from other projects I can try. I've replaced a couple on my TI calcs before, so it should be a similar process. Also did a backlight mod to a TI83+, so I've got a general idea of what should be done. One of those things you learn as you go with other "let's see how to fix this" kind of repairs that come across the desk.

What material do you use to replace the reflective layer with?

@Peddersoldchap

@@Aaron-ro2yz If you can't get hold of the proper reflective layer, try self-adhesive aluminium tape.

I've updated the description to include the songs used from the YT library "Earth Bound" by Slynk "Staycation" by Corbyn Kytes

@@PixelMaker04 appreciate you 🙏

not as simple as one might think. getting a small electric screwdriver that feels comfortable to hold and has enough torque to take out the screws as well as a long run-time from one from one charge with thin yet strong/long bits for those deep recessed screws can be a decent time spent doing research. I had to get a separate bit set for this one.

@@PixelMaker04 to disassemble the calculator, I used a generic craftsman screwdriver with a set of t8 screwbits. Now while it isn’t fancy, it got the job done.

@@ukrainiansturgeon8561 I have a manual driver I used starting out before I thought about recording. I still use it, but I did get a small electric driver to go through my repairs quicker.

yeah. just slightly broken. similar to this being "slightly not tedious"

If you're planning on replacing all the edge pieces from the top, bottom, and sides be prepared to take it all the apart just in case. You shouldn't have to remove the UMD though, just the the main PCBs. I haven't taken apart a 2000 yet, so that could be a different story. Check out the vid to get an idea of what will need to be done for the edge.

@@PixelMaker04 thank you for your input :) yeah it honestly looks like from your corona that i might just have to take off the front shell, it seems like you took off all the silver accents right around there, and the top part near the umd, you did a bit later but you could probably do it with just the front off right?

From what I remember, you should be able to get to most trim pieces just from taking the front off.

I've had to use donor calcs with dead boards for these kind of repairs. Unfortunately TI has the parts on lockdown and I have not been able to find any replacement LCDs to drop in for these unless you have contacts with the manufacturing warehouse where these are assembled in and can get them from the OEM. The part number on the screens that I've swapped out lead nowhere as well.

I wonder if it is possible to find a manufacturer that can create a almost replica screen on Ali baba or some other big company.

@@dominickjuarez5461 I hope so, because I have a few with defective screens that still needs replacements.

I will look into it

@@dominickjuarez5461 Any luck in finding a replacement screen?

A couple of things I can think of. Either a broken cold solder joint that just needs to be reflowed on one of the chips, or a loose LCD connection. Wouldn't hurt to try reflowing the solder on all the through-hole pins. As for the no function on any of the keys that was the original issue with this calculator which is why I took the keypad apart and cleaned both contact sides with IPA. There could be other reasons that may cause EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE on the display like faulty hardware, but let's hope it's just general preventative maintenance.

For one of my first videos, it seems to be doing well for itself. Never was intended to be a tutorial, but I'm glad it's help some people out.

Thanks. Always nice to see these kind of comments. Hopefully I'll have a quieter work area to be able to do proper voice recording or dubs in the coming months with a better NAS to be able to edit from it without any issue.

Yeah. I didn't want to open it up for the umpteenth I had already done to get rid of the dust.

@@PixelMaker04 understandable. It gets tiresome. Eventually one gets use to screen dots.

I haven't done a time study with it, but like most other devices that have a backlight it will increase the battery usage. Possibly only allowing around 75-80% of total work time. Again, I haven't done any comparison so this is just my guess.

@@PixelMaker04 Could you do a video measuring the current of that calculator and comparing it to a same model calculator without the backlight mod?

It's still quite a fiddley repair, though.

@@PixelMaker04 For sure, this is my first time ever repairing something at this big of a repair. Seemed like a fun useful hobby to pickup. I normally prefer to do the modding side of things soo all this is new to me! So far having fun, not sure if I should've chosen a PSP to start off with. It's going to come out looking great though I have this really cool white and blue Japanese art theme I'm doing. I'll upload it somewhere on Reddit and send you a link! ☻ Thanks! I'm still working on this soo I'll use you as a lifeline if things go south hahahaha cheers mate

@@didikong10 Same here, thought it would be a easy clean and shell replacement -_- i revive all kind of gameboys as a hobby, but a psp is next level haha, i like it though

The shell I got was aftermarket. The link is in the description from where I bought mine from. Best of luck and have fun.

Yep. I had to save it.

Glad you were able to get it replaced even if this vid wasn’t all that needed. The 1000 was easier than the 3000 from my experience as well if you ever come across one that needs a new shell.

@@PixelMaker04 actually i already reshelled the 3000 and yes it is easier, i just wanted a guide with the 1000 because it looks more intimidating with all the layers

Thanks for reaching out, but unfortunately I'm not taking any requests for repairs or shell swaps at this time. Besides, the shells I used didn't seem to be the highest quality. They worked, but they could have been made with more sturdy plastics.

Nope. Just like with the DS shells, they're MEH or worse. The do the job.

@@PixelMaker04 Thanks for the heads up :)