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In mold or post finish application? I have never tried fast acrylic thinner in gelcoat. My understanding is that Duratec is not a gelcoat. It is an addittive. Some type of acrylic enamel blend that is activated with MEKP. I would start with styrene, upto 4-5% and increase the size of the nozzle orifice for in mold application. Use a dump gun or something similar like a spray bed liner gun.

I must admit, we scrapped a few ideas and features as it began to take shape!

Thanks Sid! I genuinely appreciate the feedback!! I think my newest videos are more refined! 🤣 You can turn the Volume down and CC on, just a suggestion!

I work with Vinylester and on rare occasions epoxy. I recommend you work with what you have available and fits your budget.

Ok sir tnx

Thank you Jim!! This has been quite a journey! We're are redesigning the Bridge now. More videos when time allows!!! 👍

Yes, these Riseers make certain! Water will not back up into the engines. Along with Surge Tubes, baffled Mufflers and Exhaust Flaps. 👍

Thank you Drew!! I plan to make more when the Bertram Project wraps up!! Keep checking in!!

Definitely a piece of art! And comfortable!

Sherwin Williams TileClad

Sometimes, I use the same technique. I have developed better techniques that don't require "stabbing the fiberglass". I will explain where that comes from and show more techniques when I have time. Watch the Bertram build on my channel. When I finish the Bertram, I plan to crank out a bunch of videos!!

Thank you @berntout3697 ! This was one of my first videos.. didn't think anyone would watch them.. HOWEVER, plan to remake them with greater detail and less noise! Thanks for the FEEDBACK!

I need to crank one out for y'all!! Haven't seen my desk in about a month!! 😂

Yes Sir!! Bright White! 👍

The Styrene evaporates as the material ages even if the pail is still sealed. It permeates the plastic bucket. The splash of styrene thins the gelcoat a fair amount and sprays much better. Thanks for asking!!

@@vernesecustoms Thank you so much for your quick response. Is it necessary to add styrene for casting f.g molds or just for boats finishing?

@alialhirsh7551 not necessary.

We expect very high propeller efficiency. The Strut base is 1/2" Stainless Steel plate in a 5/8" deep recess. We gave ourselves an 1/8" should we need to float the strut for alignment. We did not have to. We planned on fairing the Struts in ahead of time because we are running about 5% tip clearance on the props and hope to minimize any disturbance ahead of propellers. We don't plan to remove the strut bolts anytime soon. Should we have to, it would not be too much trouble. Thanks for watching! Check out some of the older videos for more details!

@@vernesecustoms Okay, good luck with your work :D

Pretty close to 18 layers of 1808!! Certainly has some bullet-proof properties. Not sure about caliber and range. Untested.

We use "powder bound" Chopped Strand Mat, so any resin will work. The selection of resin is more dependent on what you are doing with it. What do you plan to do?

@@vernesecustoms Thanks

Hahahaaa!! 😂 Thanks Tim!! I suppose I could have squished 1 or 2 more in there!! 🧈

THANK YOU! I assume you are wondering how I cut the bulkheads. The Coosa panels we glassed on both sides in 4x8 sheets on the floor. Then, I cut the bulkheads using a jigsaw and Diablo bi-metal blades after using the templates to transfer my marks. There wasn't any overhang to trim, really. Except for the cutoff pieces, which I do trim up using a diamond blade on a 4.5" angle grinder. Like this👇 th-cam.com/users/shorts0qoLHsY2b3M?feature=share

Thanks for watching! Duratec has a place. It certainly dilutes gelcoat, and I typically use it as a final coat only on large parts. Most people undercatylize gelcoat and especially with Duratec addittive. 2% Folks!! All gelcoat and resin loose styrene as they age. The splash of styrene is mostly to replace what has evaporated. I have several Binks guns and pressure pots. Not my go to. Thanks for the input. Someone may get value from it!! More detailed videos later this year!!

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Wow.. detailed question.. I will get back to you with an answer when I can review your numbers. In the meantime, I suggest mixing a small batch with an exact ratio that you can scale up and tweak until you get 35- 40 minute gel-time.

Another Tip: KEEP YOUR GELCOAT IN THE CUP! A lot of people say to spread it out to give yourself more time. That is true with Epoxy. Polyester and Vinylester contain STYRENE. Styrene evaporates like a reducer and allows the materials to cure. Often gelcoat will cure MUCH slower if there is no wind evaporate the STYRENE. I will do a video showing how this works. It does the same in a cup.

@@vernesecustoms I just did two small gelcoats. I measured the drops of MEKP. 17 drops weighed 0.37 grams. then 27 drops weighed 0.82 grams. Using density = 1.17 gm/cc. 17 drops = .32 CC and27 drops = 0.7 CC. But there is a wide variation of gms per drop. Weighing is by far more accurate than counting drops.

@@ralphparker I agree!! I very rarely work on parts when guessing or "that ought to work" is acceptable!!

That must be a trick question on the test to get your 6-pack license!

Agreed!! I built a boat for a Captain in my early days who said, "If I put her on the rocks, I want to be able to grind my way off and get home!" This boat would certainly exceed his expectations!

Hey @Valk69 !! Yes, all thru-hulls are bonded to a transom zinc (anode). Absolutely necessary. I will tour all the systems before the deck goes back in thanks for watching Man!! 👍👍

Hahahaa!! Glad you love it!! Only about 8 of us!! 😂

Don't think those could fit any better!! 👍👍 "Tight is RIGHT!!"

Thanks Tim! Must have been the lucky penny I found this morning!

Hey Shannon! Thanks for weighing in!! The grey rudders were upgraded and oversized from the "Original Bertram Rudders". The Captain said these rudders performed perfectly and was hesitant to make any changes because they did so well. We also explored shortening the shafts but cannot be done because we have tapered couplers and not split couplers. We would have only gained a fraction of an inch and reduced our prop tip clearance. The wooden Mock-Up Rudder has more surface area than the grey rudders. And in the right places as far as I am concerned!! I will ask what type of prop puller we end up using when we get to that point! Thanks again for watching and commenting! 👍

@@vernesecustoms What diameter are your prop shafts?

@shannonr8685 1.5" AquaMet 22, what are you thinkin'?

@@vernesecustoms I was wondering if ACME puller would work for you, but I think the largest puller they offer is for 1.25 shafts. The only options I can think of at the moment require quite a bit of effort. I think the least effort is rudder re-design. If you have the capabilities, machine the hub down on the wheels, but that makes them one off's. Machine the non threaded part of the shaft tip off. Maybe a shorter shaft coupler. You seem extremely capable, and probably thought of anything I can possibly think of. You could pull the struts, machine the trailing end of the strut back, a machine shop could re-taper, and re-key the shaft. The bottom line is, rudder re-design is the best, and easiest for long term serviceability, and it doesn't hurt to have a little more rudder than you need. If I think of something magical, I will chime in. I am curious to see if someone else comes up with something. I always tend to over think, and take the hard route.

th-cam.com/users/shortsJBhytZwchOQ?feature=share

You Betcha!! Thanks for sharing your thoughts!! 👍

We have a saying. "Tight is right!" We are certainly squeezing our tolerances to gain propeller efficiency. 🤞We will find out soon enough if our efforts will pay off in performance gains!

We discussed the option of dropping a rudder and quickly decided that if we ever need to change a prop in the water, we should make it as simple as possible. The new rudders should outperform the 2nd gen oversized rudders. Thanks for contributing!

Great suggestion! I just started working a solution for measuring in "drops". Testing it soon. I use the MEKP calculator religiously. I love the consistent result! Glad you are enjoying it too!! www.vernese.com/mek

A few questions: What browser do you use? Do you weigh or measure the gelcoat going into the PreVal? Do you reduce your gelcoat? If Yes, with what?

Tip: some browsers allow the "install app" feature. This puts a shortcut on your homepage. Very handy! 👍

Nice to have a few different sizes! 👍

Thank YOU, Tim!! I am based in Fort Pierce, Florida.

Thanks! I appreciate you!!

Thank you!! I appreciate you watching!! I believe this was a 3 days packed into 60 seconds!! I enjoy the editing on this one!!

Thanks, Martin!! The Ol'Etended-Pilot-Bit Trick! 👍 Yessir! Used that going thru the Coosa Stringer! Like a charm!

Thank you, Tim!!! If you know anyone like yourself, please share the channel with them! I hope to produce even better videos!!

Thank you for watching! And commenting!! Plenty more to publish!

Thank you @nmartin5551 !! I don't work with Plywood much. In your situation, the fiberglass is mostly a waterproof barrier that adds strength to the Plywood. If there are stress points, add more fiberglass. I also work mostly with Vinylester Resin, which is much stronger than Polyester. It is a balancing act for sure!!