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JPMachine
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 12 ธ.ค. 2013
Jpmachine607.com
FFL07
FFL07
วีดีโอ
Cetme L Build: Setting Bolt Gap
มุมมอง 1.3K10 หลายเดือนก่อน
Watch the chat in the beginning on what I've learned setting bolt gap on the Cetme L, then watch me do it wrong, or different, or something... All I know is the rifle works great!
Cetme L Build - Serial Electro Etching
มุมมอง 1.3K11 หลายเดือนก่อน
Etching my serial number on the receiver
Cetme L Build: Demil and Flat Bending
มุมมอง 2.5K11 หลายเดือนก่อน
Demiling the receiver chunks and bending the Marcolmar flat with their rental jig.
Cetme L Build Introduction
มุมมอง 3.1K11 หลายเดือนก่อน
Introduction to the Cetme L Build. "Good Condition" kit from APEX and a Marcolmar build kit and bending jig.
Cetme C Marking Etching and Parkerizing
มุมมอง 8K11 หลายเดือนก่อน
Finishing the Cetme C build with sight adjustments, receiver etching, and parkerizing.
Cetme C Build - Finishing Up
มุมมอง 12Kปีที่แล้ว
Watch along as I finish up my Cetme C build -Trunnion Mounting -Setting Cocking Handle Gap and welding the cocking tube -Setting and welding the sights
CETME C Build - Bending Jig Build and Receiver Bending
มุมมอง 11Kปีที่แล้ว
Showing how I built my bending jig, and putting it to the test!
CETME C Build Intro and the new Precision Matthews 1130V
มุมมอง 6Kปีที่แล้ว
Introduction to the next build series, the CETME C rifle. Also a brief overview of my new Precision Matthews 1130V Lathe. I dont know much yet on the CETME build but follow along as i discover how to build this rifle. As always, if you are in need of a semi conversion for the PPs43, KP-44, PPSh41, or M49/57 email me at JPMachine607@gmail.com for more information!
PPSh41 Semi Auto Reweld Build - Barrel and Stampings
มุมมอง 6Kปีที่แล้ว
Join me on Rumble! I will be moving all of my content over there. Www.rumble.com/user/JPMachine This video documents how I decided to make my barrel and redoing the stampings with a reproduction Arsenal stamp!
PPSh41 Semi Auto Reweld Build - Bolt and FCG Progress
มุมมอง 6Kปีที่แล้ว
Check out additional videos on my rumble account here: rumble.com/user/JPMachine Did some work on the bolt and FCG. Pardon the mess, it’s how I work, I’ll clean it up later. 😉 Spoiler alert, my shroud extension idea didn’t work. I’ll make a form jig to press some flat stock around the mandrel I made. Next up is the barrel I think. Turning the barrel with the extended shoulder now!
PPSh41 Semi Auto Reweld Build - Project Introduction
มุมมอง 13Kปีที่แล้ว
This is the start of a new build series on the PPSh41. Follow along to see how it goes!
M49/57 and PPs43 Test Fire / Range Day
มุมมอง 12Kปีที่แล้ว
Shooting the m49/57 build and PPs43 for (almost) the first time! Still some bugs with the m49/57 but the bolt works great! Need a Semi auto PPs43 bolt or complete m49/57 semi auto conversion? Email me at jpmachine607@gmail.com
M49/57 Semi Auto Build - Barrel fitting and bluing
มุมมอง 3.4Kปีที่แล้ว
M49/57 Semi Auto Build - Barrel fitting and bluing
M49/57 Semi Auto Build - Welding and Build Overview
มุมมอง 6K2 ปีที่แล้ว
M49/57 Semi Auto Build - Welding and Build Overview
Where did you find the correct spacing between the parts from?
Like how much to wield my kit?
Excellent video. I am building a SA cetme C in .45 ACP using the Rhineland arms conversion kit. Quick question, you touched on it around the 19 min mark. Do you have to drill the front of the barrel for the pin that secures the front sigh tower? Is the silver solder necessary or were you just being extra diligent? Where did you place the solder? The barrel or the cocking tube? Thanks
Yes it needs to be pinned, the silver solder isn’t necessary but should keep it in place better than a semi loose pin. The solder is on the joint between triple tree and barrel.
@@JPMachine So drill the barrel to fit the pin, correct?
@ yeah, just like the barrel pin basically. Then tack the pin / sling ring in place on the other side of the triple tree
@@JPMachine excellent thanks
You ruined the gun
I live in Belgium and own a semi converted PPSH41, the proofing house just flipped the selector to semi, spot welded it in place and called it a day! It will occasionally let off a two round burst when i slowly squeeze the trigger. Awesome little range toy! Loves throwing hot brass down my neck tho...
How did you end up pining the barrel and trunnion I bought a 5mm hk barrel pin off of hk and I seen people on Reddit talking about you have to be careful
I used some drill rod that was nice and tight. That part might be in a video YT pulled, I have them all on rumble still though!
@ thank you I bought a 5mm hk pin off of hk will it work?
@ it’ll probably be loose. If it doesn’t need a press to install it’s too loose
@ I put it in a little in the trunnion it goes in a little bit but after that it don’t go anymore so I’m assuming it will be good
When I pull back my cocking tub it is so hard to pull back when everything is together I have a little dent in the back of my cocking tube towards the area you have to weld do you think that is the problem?? Any help would be greatly appreciated 😊
Straighten it out before you weld! You want the cocking handle to not bind at all over its full travel. Shove an expander mandrel down into the tube to push out any dents.
@ thanks a lot I got it working and it’s going great so far I just need to buy a barrel and weld when your welding the cocking tube do you do it very carefully because I notice that it’s paper thin
@ yes very careful. Use a backer in the tube. I have an aluminum rod turned down to a tight fit, it will help you not burn through. Aluminum or copper work great for heat sinking
You got lucky with your kit some don't have most of the piece's.
The kits from bowman are always cut like this! When they don’t have everything it makes a reweld impossible unfortunately
My 1945 ppsh41 kit has the marking ground off....
Yep most of them do. I got a hand stamp to remark mine from an online store in Poland. (waffenamt-shop.com/gb/stamps-for-soviet-weapons/1560-stamp-star-in-the-coat-of-arms.html) Now I just use my fiber laser to redo markings!
Dude you do amazing work! Really impressive
i'm interested in some details about the welding aspect of this. the consumables in particular. and your welder settings. i'm building some of these and i'm learning tig welding as i go. what size and color of tungsten? details on the filler rod used. argon gas flow meter settings? any details you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
I use 3/32 tartan G tig rod, welder just set to max current of like 150a and I just pedal it to feel. I use 3/32 blue tungsten for most everything. Argon flow is related solely to your cup size. 2-2.5x (min-max) your cup size. I use a #8 gas lens for most work. Cup size dictates how far you can stick tungsten out too. The bigger the cup the more gas flow required though!
@@JPMachine thanks so much for the info brother!
As other viewers have already said - very useful documentary. Thank you.
Has machine in channel title proceeds to use a claw hammer when doing mechanical/metal fabrication work. Good video though.
Is there another place I can find the videos on bolt gap and welding? Did TH-cam delete them?
Yep they did. Look for my name on rumble!
@ found you ty, you do great work btw
Did you mill the lower for clearance or part of the semi conversion?
The lower needs to be gutted for the semi FCG!
@JPMachine thank you that includes the side of the lower as well?
It partially needs to be milled to install the semi fcg yes
hello, i know this is a old video but i was just wondering that is the purpose of the denial bar you welded in. it seems like its only there to guide the bolt, and prevent it from rotating. does it serve any other function ?
Prevents you from putting a new full auto bolt in A necessary feature when building old kits like this . There has to be measures put in them so they cannot be readily converted to full auto.
I’m going enroll in community 😂for welding to build these as a hobby
I’m having trouble with the rattle paddle and the semi auto bushing and we’re to drill below the mag catch for the semi auto bushing help please 😊
Where did the trigger group come from
The best one you can get is from freedom machine. freedommachineworks.com/product/semi-auto-pps-43-fire-control-group/
The best one you can get is from freedom machine. freedommachineworks.com/product/semi-auto-pps-43-fire-control-group/
I remember you having a video on the install of the auto shelf and modification to the trigger group. Is there another platform where those videos are still available?
Yeah, check on rumble!
@JPMachine thank you so much
this is great, but did you ever document pressing the barrel into the trunnion and setting the roller gap? that's the only thing i've really been having a little trouble with - being a perfectionist i've been trying to get that gap on the low end of the tolerance and i keep blowing by it with my press
Yeah that video got pulled I believe. It is over on rumble though. Google “JP machine rumble” and it should find my channel. Sometimes you just gotta push it through and start over, otherwise you can try whacking it with a mallet to set back a few thou.
How has it been holding up? I've been thinking of building one but I heard cases of CETME Ls breaking
It runs great actually. I finished it up a while ago just haven’t had a chance to do any more videos.
GREAT JOB
Nice work
Great set of videos!! Extreme helpful. I push my barrel all the way down to the flange and I gotta use a feeler gauge, but it looks like there was no bolt gap and it was really hard to get the bolt to come out of the Trunon.
You're very talented? What welding machine do you use
just randomly found your channel thru VZ61 and PM63 build videos, must say nice metalworking
Nice.
Refreshing to see a non believer. Most people believe in the shaving cream rule "the more you use , the better it works " instead of the brylcreem rule " a little dab will do ya "
Are you a wizard?
Haha not quite!
Very nice.
Do you know what’s a really good mig welder for a good price and easy to use any recommendations?
There are two areas I think you should address that I can't seem to find too much info on. Firstly there's the weldment insert in the back that sits between the two rear takedown pins. That insert will not allow a cetme c stock to fit. I've found it best to use just the two steel standoff bosses right on the metal receiver with no additional weldment, or trimming the weldment insert almost in half. The other thing that I rarely see documentation of is the use of the paddle release without doing naught stuff. I think some simple measurements for the bushing and pin you used to avoid the dreaded 3rd hole violation along with video of how you did it would be super beneficial. These types of rifles suck pretty bad without a paddle when it comes to reloading. I figured out the paddle for myself, but it seems like most of the cetmes, g3s and ptrs don't have that because of the tightrope that needs to be walked
Thanks! Yes the rear weldment thing is annoying and basically pointless in a semi build. I did have a video on the paddle but YT has been slowly deleting my videos. That video with the paddle is on Rumble, just search for my name.
@@JPMachine Thanks man! I'll check it out!
Hi.why does the push bar have the .75 flats? Other jigs are all round
Saw that dimension online, the other thing to use is a 20mm round bar instead of what I used
@JPMachine 20mm that's smaller than yours, right?
@joeygabriele71 just a touch yep, but that’s the real dimension if I remember correctly
@@JPMachine thank you
Voce tem o plano em tamanho real?
Great video…Question what do you use for your lathe work make & model also what do you use for your welding setup. Thanks KR
Right now I have a precision Matthew’s pm1130v. Great lathe. I used to use Mig for all my stuff but now I am 100% with an alpha tig 203xi and it works great!
Can an hk91 locking piece be used in a cetme c 308? If not, why not?
Not sure honestly!
Do all the parts that it needs come into the kit?
No, you’ll need a semi bolt conversion and a barrel.
@@JPMachine ok thank you just ordered one
@@blascowitz3083 Whered you find it?
@@JPMachine bowman
@@JPMachine the parts kit
So was this demilled, like cut barrel and reciever and you welded them back together?
Yep, it was basically reduced to scrap metal…legally. Then converted to hammer fired closed bolt semi auto instead of open bolt full auto
Do u think using a mild steel flux mig welder would produce decent results ? I have a flux mig welder and lots of experience on sheet metal, etc just wondering if the gas mig is a major difference
Flux will work, but messy. Mig will work too, a bit cleaner but Tig is best. I switched to tig about a year ago and now use it on everything!
Really nice job, great craftsman. Thanks
Thank you very much!
Built a few of these....first thing i did for the bolt was made an aluminum fixture that holds the bolt in position, then that goes in the 4 jaw chuck. A couple aircraft length drills and works perfect and repeats every time. One tip, get the drop in trigger unit if you can because trying to make a Remington 870 trigger group work in one of these is very difficult
Great build!
Wow! Freaking beautiful!!
Great work man! The end of part one was amazing!
How much to do some work on my kit?
I'm sure someone has mentioned this or you already know, but for the electo-etching, you're better off using sodium carbonate (washing soda) for the electrolyte rather than table salt; with table salt it's possible for chlorine gas to be produced which is toxic and can rust anything steel.
Interesting, thanks for the info! I did not know that!
@@JPMachine np, your build look great btw!
Outstanding....
I really wish I had seen this before trying myself. I used an old piece of galvanized pipe, a hammer, hammer and a vise.
Disqualified
Ate you still doing work on pps43, if so how do I contact you
Yep! Email me at jpmachine607@gmail.com