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Just curious. What year is your prius and did you have to remove parts of the center console? Split right now b/w a Honda Crv or Prius for my next pov. Neat video

Thank you for posting. There are not enough videos and information on this mod

this looks fuckin insane. wow!

They didnt include it cause they were required to warrenty the battery for 10 years, in order to minimize number of claims they removed the ability for ev mode since that kills the battery faster.

impressive !😵‍💫

Thanks for sharing reddit link, I really appreciate it! I was just about to place an order. I converted my car into a plug-in hybrid with Nissan Leaf batteries... imagine if the whole thing caught fire, oh boy!

Do you know how to disable the EV speed limit on a Prius Gen2 ? I run as a plugin (18 kW)? It’s more efficient than the Gen 5! Speed limit in EV mode is 50km (35 mph)

once you go passenger seat driver you never go back

hopefully as more people lifepo4 mod old priuses this can be figured out. i think it would be cool if everyone converted their old prius' to plug ins. for me i just went with the gen1 chevy volts lol. 50miles range after my solar and lfp mods.

Did you have the (aftermarket) EV mode engaged with the video in the left?

Fascinating video. I will follow your videos man.

Thank you

Dude u deserve way more views and subs

I’m having this problem. 30 mpg. I think I was sold a weak used battery. This is the second used battery, they gave me a replacement warranty battery. Same 30 mpg. Any fix / solution?

I’m having this problem.

what wrong when the lights do not brink

2004 power ✌️😁

Weak Eevee state is also determined by factors such as high voltage battery temperature. If it's too low you will get weak EV state if high voltage battery temperature is too high. You get weak EV state. If gasoline engine is not properly warmed up, you get weak EV State in partial because it would run on the gas engine. But it does not rev to the Moon when giving it throttle unless you give it lots of throttle. The point of this is to let you know that there could be phantom readings or just readings more specifically related to the battery, such as temperature readings that the computer doesn't trust and if it does not think it can trust these readings or there's too much variation of battery temperature between the three temperature sensors on the top of the battery, then it will automatically default to a safety mode which is weak EV state in order to preserve the hybrid battery and keep the car working effectively as a hybrid most likely it is a sensor reading and sometimes these sensors fail or go out. Anyway, that is part of the reason why there is three temperature sensors for the battery temperature after the air has been through the battery and for detecting the actual temperature of the battery unfortunately for us users, even though there is a high battery temperature light on the dash, the car defaults to its weak EV state at such a low temperature that it will never come close to actually causing the high battery temperature light to come on with the exception of the battery cooling fan outright failing because the car is set to automatically revert to weak EV state. If the temperature sensor in the intake air fails for the hybrid battery, then it reverts to the temperature for outside temperature for what the car thinks the outside temperature is and also uses what the climate control temperature is set to to try to determine what it thinks is most likely the best intake air temperature and this can sometimes be hard for the car to determine so it just defaults to its safety which is weak EV state because it knows it can trust the temperature sensors for the engine way more than it can trust the temperature sensors for the battery also sometimes hooking The 12 volt battery up incorrectly or not giving it enough time disconnected can cause these issues. In order to properly change the 12-volt battery, the procedure is to disconnect from the negative of the 12 volt first or the ground strap on a gen. 3 of the 12-volt first then disconnect the positive battery side and then when reinstalling the battery hook The positive battery terminal up first then all of the things that plug into the positive battery terminal and then connect the negative side of the battery up and then go and start your car after that sometimes hooking the battery up in the wrong order does not always cause a check engine light or a fault light to come on. But it is supposed to cause a fault light to come on. So that way you get the car checked out by a mechanic and sometimes it'll even set certain fault-like combinations or specific check engine light codes that the very first procedure is to disconnect the ground or negative of the 12-volt battery for 60 seconds or longer and then reconnect it to the car also disconnecting the 12 volt battery is also the poor man's way of resetting the check engine light without a scan tool sometimes there is faults with one or more of a computers in the car which many are responsible for communicating battery status stuff and when those computers fail but not in a catastrophic way, it does not necessarily set a check engine light and can cause the car to go into its safety mode with the battery which as described earlier in this comment is to put the car into a week EV State affecting your city driving and City fuel economy. I have noticed this many times in my 2012 Prius V package 2 and I notice that it typically occurs when the situation comes down to either. I've just recently started the car and started driving and it's a cold day and I want the heat to be on. It seems to be in a semi week EV state or on really hot summer days. It goes into week EV state as well but it doesn't necessarily give me high RPMs out of the engine. It just seems that generally in normal mode the car is performance is more like eco mode for me but on occasion, I will notice my 2012 Prius V go into a properly weak EV State typically more or less when the scenario seems to be. Most likely that the hybrid battery has gotten very warm. I am a full-time rideshare driver giving passenger rides so Auto lots of non-stop driving that does have a bit of stop and go mixed in but stop and go where I'm not turning off the car and I'm only sitting there for a few minutes at a time Plus the area where I work it is quite common to be able to quickly get out onto a road that has a speed limit of 40 mph or higher where I typically set my cruise control at 43. Mph or even 45 mph with my cruise control I ran my original battery to 400,000 mi and my replacement battery has over 40,000 mi on it itself now and both batteries seem to behave about the same and give me about the same fuel economy in the car. Sometimes I notice that I have a really great really strong EV state and other times I notice that it can be kind of weak, but that is not much of a surprise, especially when you're low enough on state of charge that the car needs to run the gasoline engine specifically to run generator mode to charge up the hybrid battery because it is at a low enough state of charge so if you were skimping out on climate control to try to get better fuel economy, in some cases it could be costing you fuel economy because the battery could be too hot. If you're trying to not run the air conditioner to save the load on the battery, it could cause the car to not cool off the passenger compartment enough, which is where the air for the hybrid cooling system is pulled from or in the winter. It's just things are too cold in general and you will be in a partial week EV state, meaning the car will run the gasoline engine because it needs the gasoline engine to be warm in order to be able to heat the passenger compartment, but especially during the summer if you're noticing weak EV State, even if your battery is at a good state of charge, it is because the battery is most likely a little bit too warm and it would be beneficial to actually turn the air conditioner on and turn it up to cool off the inside of the car.

I'm curious about the state of your wheel speed sensors. I just replaced one that wasn't throwing a code but causing odd brake behavior when hitting bumps at slow speed for a couple years. After replacing a wheel bearing I had all the abs lights turn on and had no more abs function. After replacing the sensor last night I noticed an IMMEDIATE change in brake behavior, regen and battery soc. Much like you are describing. Now I can find a very precise pedal position allowing the vehicle to coast without regen or engine on. Now I'm thinking about all of the fuel I could have possibly saved... Hope this helps.

Wait.....try this before anything else > .unplug and then plug back in the big orange breaker / interlock on the battery. Or if you can, swap the bad with the 'good' cars and test again.

mine stop half the way, do you think is a problem with the hardware unit or air in the system

You must use Tech scream and rest it all.

What software where are you useing ?

Hello, yesterday I removed the battery of my vehicle, there was a lot of oxidation on the busbars, the battery ecu unit connector was oxidized, I am currently doing the battery maintenance and oxide cleaning, I am wondering if there will be a change, I will let you know the result.

I had an interesting experience. After a night at the bar I came back to my car to find 12v disconnected. I normally keep it hand tight so when the combinator goes out I can quickly fix it. Well in my state I thought "what if all the ECU knows is full EV power" and I know reverse uses exclusively EV power so I reversed out of there pretty quick. I kept it floored way longer than I would have conscious and I think it was a potentially unsafe procedure even fully sober. Anyhow, since that night (2 nights ago) it has behaved substantially uhhh... "Better" the MPG avg on the MFD has just been going up and I'm waiting to the gas ticks to go but they just won't...!

Safety Glasses Dude , please

Oh, yes what a great analysis. Anyway, as I get greater mpg than the thumbnail in my 2010 gen3. I think that I am fine to not bother to over think and probably waste time on chasing gains that I probably already indirectly I am using in practice. 👍

I am enjoying the journey but remain unconvinced. You believe the EV Mode is a software controlled binary value which cannot be reset or read with OBD or Techstream? On which module would this value live?

Cool and detailed graph! May I know if I can get the info for my 2013 Aqua (Prius C)?

How to solve this issue I’ve been stuck in weak ev state since 2013

Your office never has an LLV or Metris for you to use? Last I remember it was $.93/mile they pay you for using your vehicle, so you're doing good even with the worst mpg Prius. During the holidays I was using my 11 mpg Suburban to run Amazon on Sundays sometimes, with the size of the packages 46 stops had it 100% full with 3rd row removed and 2nd row folded down.

my gen 3 starts for no reason at all i got to the point of shutting it off at long lights it has bad software!!!

When you solder with your helping hands the clip acts as a heat sink and the pin isn't as hot, you can crimp first then put your clip on the insulation side when you solder if you don't trust your crimp.

Hello Regarding this problem, during a long work holiday, I will disassemble my battery, clean the busbar, discharge the battery as a block at 4.8V and recharge it 3 times + clean the fan, etc., let's see if it gives results. Currently, according to the Dr Prius application, my battery is 85% healthy, but the person I bought the car from said that it had been 5 or 6 years since the replacement. Do you think it's likely to work? Is it worth trying?

Hello, I follow your videos and the topic you cover closely. I want to ask you a question, to compare with my own vehicle, In my observation in my own vehicle, I did not care about the percentage of the battery. It turned out that when the hv battery reaches the 210-212 v band, the gasoline engine is activated. This can give around 10kW of power depending on the health of my battery. When I start drawing 10kW of power from the battery, the voltage drops to 212 210 and then the gasoline engine starts working. Can you follow up on your situation? I'm waiting for your reply. Thank you.

Looking forward to this developing

lithium ion cells are not safe. you should install lithium iron phosphate battery which is not flammable and is safe.

Thanks for saving my Prius. I was getting all sorts of codes before I calibrated my new skid control unit.

Thanks! This was a life saver, Joe.

10 of my cells are bad

Where can I buy the cells?

Hello Mr.. My gen 2 prius if I force charge it, it never attains more than 60% SOC...once it reaches 60% the engine shuts off..even if i press the gas pedal.... also when when the SOC reaches 55+% the charging output from MG 1 drops significantly up to 2 Amps... But when soc is 42% the mg 1 charges the HV battery at 23-25 Amps.... What can be the reason for this? I have no any fault related to high voltage system..

Any updates on this for triggering Max EV persistently? I thought I was crazy for the last year and a half after I had to reset the computer due to a window glitch(window button stopped working but worked after computer reset). Car has been running the ICE way more since then and my average MPG dropped about 8 overall. Would love to know if you’ve had any breakthroughs. Just a thought, perhaps a hard computer reset when disconnecting the battery could possibly damage something on the circuit board over time that eventually triggers the Weak EV state? Hard to say for sure but I’m definitely leaning towards software. Perhaps a software engineer can look through everything for us haha. In the meantime, I’ll use your tutorial for installing EV Mode switch and do that. :)

i never use the ev mod on my 3rd gen

what song was that at the end? sounds familiar lol

Any more info on the weak EV state? Your engine sound kinda rough

Youre driving a prius, what do you expect?

Another American that doesn't understand what hogging the left lane means.

LOL!!!

Douchebags come in all sizes