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Thanks, I wish I had seen this video before I change out my lights. You always know how to do it right.

This the second time I watch this video. It is great refresh way to learn. Well done

Looks like crap.

Great and safer tip!! Thank you for sharing!! 🙂

I used 2x12s for framing. While I don’t have any use for them. I see the benefit of those that do.

Are these really necessary? Once wire is strung through stud holes, what forces are going to drag the wires back and forth with enough force to shred the Romex cover and subsequently the wire sheathing? Maybe for metal studs, since the metal stud holes might be razor sharp but pine studs? Seems like this product was developed for a nonexistent need.

Plastic will degrade leaving possibly sharp metal edge

So we are back to cap and tube wireing?

I like it 👍

Saw you with them when you did the shower a while back. To expensive for unless a contractor getting a mark up on supplies.

What is the purpose of grounding the electrical box?

What is the Red tool called that you used to sinch down the ring?

I think the grounding screws are 10-32 thread

I thought I came here for a video, not an infomercial. 😂

Have to get a loan from the bank in order to buy all those wagos, so I just joined the wires using wire nuts 😳

WAGO 4 wire connector???? Why not made?

Ow, metal boxes ... never mind

The Sharkbite warranty coverage for property damage caused by a leak requires proof that the fitting was installed by a licensed professional plumber (not a DIYer). The coverage for damage is for only 10 years. Also, to file a warranty claim you must cut off the pipe(s) instead of removing the fitting, and send them the fitting with the section(s) of pipe still inserted so they can check whether the fitting was properly installed. They will of course have an incentive to say you installed it wrong, and then what would you do? DIYers, be aware of these warranty issues.

I had a problem with two GFCI's on a single circuit so I ended up taking apart the metal boxes looking for a short. There were three boxes where the metal clamp had cut into the white wire in the Romex I fixed them. The GFCI still tripped so I disconnected the first one from the load. Those metal clamps should not be over tight.

👍.... but ....what is that "bubbled" corner base, in your box ??....i mean it wasn't a box that i've seen before...

How does this work out flipping up and down repeatedly over the years? My experience has been that the lightweight gutter material quickly fails at the hinge

Very ingenious idea

Trip hazard?

Very clever. Just as long as you don't forget to flip it back down. Last month I temporarily move the AC drain line out of the way So I could change the filter and I forgot to put it back. Oops.

Very important point. Thank you for sharing

wall plate screws....horizontal or vertical ..?? .....standars practice..... HUH...❓❓

Those panels will never rot if they are left on the shelf at the store but if you take them home and put them up on a wall they will soon be rotted. they are temporary siding.

Such a great product for the DIY market 👍🏼🛠️🛠️

I think the connectors sold as AC/MC connectors UPC 031857655013 are mislabeled. They are only for AC Cable. A single screw MC Connector in your video is the best way to go. There is also a two-screw MC connector that looks like an NM connector yet has the additional metal tabs on the inside to keep the conductors safe. (see 1575murray's comment) I do not think MC Cable needs the red bushings if it is installed properly with the proper connectors. Thank you for posting the video.

A careful reading of the Sharkbite 25 year warranty reveals loopholes, since it's only for manufacturing defects. In other words, they have an incentive to blame a leak on improper installation or abuse. How would one prove it was due to a manufacturing defect? It would help to hear from DIYers about their experiences when they filed warranty claims. To file a warranty claim, you must not remove the Sharkbite fitting from the pipe. You instead must cut the pipe so that a section of the pipe is still inserted in the fitting you send to them for evaluation. That means you won't be able to fix a Sharkbite leak by simply replacing the Sharkbite fitting; you'd also need to replace the cut-out section of pipe. (In the case of the pipe-joining Sharkbite shown in the video, you might need to cut BOTH joined pipes to leave sections of both pipes inserted in both ends of the fitting.) The major cost of a leak is often the water damage to property. The coverage on damage caused by a Sharkbite leak is limited to 10 years and requires proof that the installation was performed by a licensed professional plumber. That's bad news for DIYers. It's also a warning for homeowners to be careful when considering hiring a restoration contractor after major damage (fire, flood, etc). It's important to verify the kind of fittings they will install, verify they will hire a licensed professional plumber to install them, and obtain documentation that would prove a licensed professional plumber did the installation. In my limited experience -- a restoration company hired by the condo association property manager after an asbestos abatement company demolished my condo's kitchen -- the restoration company subcontracts to unlicensed handymen for plumbing and electrical work, and due to their limited training they can only do easy solutions (such as Sharkbite), not necessarily the best long term solutions.

Could you donate tutorial on the Home-FLEX CSST gas line?!

I would never use these in a house I sleep in !!!

It was pulled from Amazon, and it is not known if it will be back. That tells it all. The brand is TE.

What could go wrong? Everything.

I'd like to see a version of those Leviton outlets cut open. I'm curious to know how much surface area is contacting the wire and how much resistance there is compared to standard side wiring or the Wago connectors.

Is that a non flammable splice?

The clamp into the box is not even correct

What bull s is this

Haven't you covered this subject numerous times?

I'm pretty saw I viewed this a year or more ago.

Maybe 10 years ago at a continuing education class they talked about these one time only NM cable splice devices. S couple of residential sparkies said they never had any problems with them.

What could go wrong, metal squeezers on cheapy plastic onto not perpendicular wire cutter/grabbers. WOW NOPE

Bare romex behind drywall. I would never do.

Those look like car audio wire taps. That will heat up and anneal under load and cause a loose connection over time.

I would be interested to see if there is a degradation of current flow through these connectors. A test similar to the one you did comparing wire nuts to wago connectors would be good to see. I can't help but feel that the "fork" splice will limit current flow and heat up under a max rated load.

The concept is neat but it looks a bit flimsy. Thank you for sharing

What about just soldering the wires and covering the wire with heat shrink tubing?

Assuming the electrical fire doesn't kill you or your family the insurance company typically will want an investigation done before paying out any money, telling them that you saw a guy on TH-cam do it is probably not going to cut it with the insurance people...IMHO

Does this product have CSA approval. I wouldn't trust this product.

What a horrible, dangerous idea. The area of contact is insufficient for its intended use. Not UL approved and no longer available on Amazon.