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@@samgreen3983 I have a related video showing the various winding options for QS273 motors which shows how many strands of wire are used in each winding for winds from 2T to 5T, and for various magnet height and stator widths. While the chart in the video only shows the rated rpm of each combination, it’s easy to understand that the more strands that phase current is distributed over, the less heat it will make. th-cam.com/video/DpUedomBx8A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=n3Hx1OzHMs3nOdtr

@@danirinaldi1044 i haven’t gotten very deep into the settings yet to know what all the pros and cons are. But some things that are apparent so far: Fardriver 72v allows voltage from 48v-72v in settings while a flipsky 75100 can work with 4s-20s, 14v - 84v. Fardriver motor temperature sensor must be in the firmware, while vesc lets you program for any temperature sensor. Fardriver has ratios on speed, vesc doesn’t. So tuning field weakening might be harder on VESC Fardriver has limited throttle curves (sport/linear/eco) and limited ramp rate (224 max). VESC has several ways to skew throttle curve and ramp rates are adjusted in milliseconds. Fardriver has limited access to some settings while VESC you can change just about anything, even if you shouldn’t, In this case my controller replacement needed to fit inside a 60mm diameter frame tube so VESC was the only high power option.

You need to wire connect B- to the battery negative collector, and all the balance leads should be connected to your battery in the correct order according to the wiring diagram. This is a 7s16s which varies a lot in the order of wires for any less than 16s. The main wires that power the ant is the tiny red wire and the tiny black wire of the balance leads. Make sure to use the at least the minimum amount for your battery and bms, and LiFePO4 need more cells than Li-ion to meet the minimum voltage required to power the ANT. For example, this one I can use 7s li-ion but need minimum of 10s LiFePO4. Make sure you didn’t connect C- to the battery, that goes to the controller. If you tell me which ANT model you have and what your battery is (13s LION or 16s LiFePO4 for example), i can see if that BMS should work.

@imho7250 7-16s 16zNao-16s-40A

@@cjdelossantos5832 did you get your scooter running correctly?

Yes, it's well running now and it just won gold on the recent Ecooter cup😁 Thanks for all the tips👍

@ Gold? That sounds great. Glad you got it all working good. My new Jimmy C4 is slow and lethargic but the Flipsky will let my make it accelerate acceptable because I can increase DC amps from 16a stock to 25a safely without tripping the bms. The battery is still too weak for field weakening.

@@imho7250 yeah but I'm not the rider. That's a cool bike!

@@yengkunwatseyhak3572 I made this battery specifically for my hobby charger. I installed (+) and (-) leads to an XT-60 connector and added a balance harness. So to charge it up i just connect my hobby charger input to a 20w power supply then connect the battery the hobby charger, and charge it. th-cam.com/video/m9ETr_XEdME/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EjvSW_-vqtaIZ48k

@@MrCrofty1993 the app is called Uni Scooter, default password 888888 (six 8s)

@@MrCrofty1993 , some manufacturers have made a custom version of this app specifically for their scooter. I found several that work with mine, some have more features than others

@@MrDeceptacon88 does statoraide fertilize the phase wires so they can grow thicker? Lol

@@jerrysy9322 the original battery was 5x 12v23ah SLA batteries in a battery box that can be lifted out of the bike. After buying 2 sets of batteries I decided to build a LiFePO4 battery for it. The battery I made uses 120x 32700 threaded cells, in 20s6p configuration. You can get 6500 mah cells which would make a 39ah battery. You could also use prismatic cells but when I looked I couldn’t find the right dimensions to get 20s in the box.

@@jerrysy9322 i have several videos about making that battery but here is a 30 second highlight video: th-cam.com/video/Jn1VsP58Adw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zl4kcEG-HbtOP3ka

@@imho7250 39ah is the max you could fit, what volt was it, 48v or 60v?

@@jerrysy9322its 20s6p 32700 LiFePO4. The nominal voltage is about 3.3v/cell, so 20*3.3v=66v. It’s about the same voltage at a 60v SLA battery. The voltage stays very flat between 64v and 68v from 20%-90% state of charge.

@@fl8361 I added R003 shunt resistors on top of the original R001 shunt resistors but I didn’t have the right equipment so I ended up shorting something out and broke the controller. This should bring peak amps from 16a to 20a, the max rated for the 9044. The big problem with these is that HobbyWing has made them difficult to program, so you can’t change its settings to 48v or increase the amps to 20a, or use the Uni Scooter app to its full capabilities. Im planning on replacing my controller with a VESC controller, which would allow me to go a bit faster than the original 18-20mph using field weakening. I can use the original battery and motor for a while by setting amps low, and then later upgrade the battery and motor to something more powerful. The other big problem is all the electronics are integrated so the button, throttle and brake send signals to the display, then the display sends that information to the 9044, which has deducted connectors for headlight and taillight/brake light. My 9044 also has PAS input. When you change the controller nothing else is plug and play. The Bluetooth, display, lights, PAS all need some effort to get working again. I have no idea what happens is you use 48v with the controller programmed for 36v, other than the battery meter will always be wrong. I don’t know if it will damage anything.

About 2mm, enough for the 1mm thick copper plus 1mm for the raised portion of the cell holder.

Can you make a screenrecording of your ANT app, starting with a slow scroll top tp bottom of the main page, then Vparams, then CurParams, and then go back to main page demonstrate and scroll until boxes 3,4,5,6 are in view, then ride the bike to make it trip. Then upload the video to your channel, not a short, not for kids, and let me know so I can come watch it and give my assessment.

@ i changed the short protect amps from 210 to 220 and it seemed to fix the issue. Am i good?

@@Viralclips22833 i wont know if its good without the video I requested. There are many interrelated settings. It’s strange the protection was set so low unless you are the one who did that. If that was in fact the default setting it means the ANT model was way too small for your controller. But I can see everything needed from the video, so if you want my assessment , make the video.

@@dcktater7847 yes, but if its can be arranged better, thinner copper will give better results and easier to work with. Imagine a 10p pack, snake bus, thats 20 cells in a row connected by a snake <20mm wide, but needing to carry 450a across between the two parallel groups. Then consider those same 20cells arranged in a 4x5 square, covered with a 80mmx100mm piece of copper, such that the series bus is 80mm wide to carry the same 450a. The snake bus needs to be 4x thicker to be the same mm^2 at the point where current is highest. This is why no real battery makers will use a snake bus except when there is absolutely no choice.

@@madmax3288 for Android it’s probably best to uninstall the old app then install the new app.

@@Daniel-zy8ur connect your phone to the ANT bms and start screen recording. Slowly Scroll each page, top to bottom, starting with the main page then go to parameters tab and open each page, scroll top bottom. Starting from FastSetting and each one down until PackParameters. Take your time scrolling so I can see the setting and so its more than 1 minute long so its not a short (so i can use timestamps). Upload “not for kids”. Because I don’t have the kids app and can’t comment if its for kids. Then come back and let me know its uploaded and PUBLIC and i will come check it out and tell you what is wrong with it.

@ hi sir. I have uploaded the video please have a read to the description as well. Thank you so much 🙏

@ , I commented on your video.

I am curious about the current my motor will support. My motor image is attached. resimlink.com/vLPa2AOQ r.resimlink.com/95D3mRPZb.jpg r.resimlink.com/QgEReA.jpg

I can measure winding resistances and thickness if necessary

@@ADDTR1 how many amps if your BMS rated at? What size are your motor phase wires. The cable will say 3x (some size) and 5x (some smaller size). 500w should have 3x 1.0mm^2. Look at the traces on the controller and the DC and Phase wires of the controller. Make sure they are big enough for more amps. If your controller is rated at 15a peak, you can try modding it to 20a peak. This is a 33% increase in acceleration, but should not increase top speed. The speed limit is what allows the motor time to cool down after each acceleration. 20a to accelerate, 10a for cruise.

@@imho7250 3 pieces of 2.0mm width with protective case

If you are using Instagram, I would like to post pictures from there.

@@Jon-b8y9h i don’t understand the question. Can you be more specific?

You can also verify pole pairs are correct by using a GPS app to get the actual speed on the road and look at the reported RPM from your controller, then using any online calculator to see if your tire diameter @ that RPM matches the speed given by the GPS. Simple with hub motor. For middrive you would need to factor in the reduction ratio of the chain/belt.

The fake ones were from Shopee Philippines (all on shopee were fake at this time), the real ones i bought through Molicel’s Authorized Asia distributor, Vapecell. I first went to the official Vapecell website, found contacts, and emailed them. Then they gave me a quote and made a specific link for me in their shop on Aliexpress. But the new dog in town is the P45B, since the price has dropped significantly, they are only slightly more expensive than the P42a, so ask them for a quote, If you are not in Asia, find the authorized Molicel distributor in your region and buy from them.

Power central from shopee Philippines also sell molicel cells do think they are legit?

@ , no, those are not legit. I buy most 32700 cells from power central and they seem good now that they test them, but the molicel are not legit. The way to see if you have to look through the reviews for clear pictures. Then check the QR code. If they seem like clones, they are fake. Real Molicel have unique QR code on every single cell. down-ph.img.susercontent.com/file/ph-11134103-7r98w-lntjpmgq6q218e.webp I don’t know if they are part of the scam or just resellers of the scam artist. The fake cells I got were from Power Central. They are still decent cells, but as you see in tests they aren’t P42a. Probably LiShen 2100LA rewrapped as fake P42a. Thats why they deliver the amps but the mah are a bit low. Even the vape shops on shopee are selling these fake P42a and probably the P45b they sell are also fake.

@@jamesdoulton7567 it’s just basic setup but its enough to get the bike running. After this process the Fardriver needs to be tuned to get the max performance without damaging the battery, controller or motor. Basic settings are all the static settings you can do without ever riding the bike. Tuning gets into PID settings and ratios in speeds, regen table, etc. basically anything that requires you test ride the bike while screenrecording the graph page or listen for motor noise or feeling for motor roughness,

@@ethanhunt1828 what motor do you have?

It is QS motor 3KW Mid Drive Modified for resale by indian brand. I dont know what fixed it but must be some optional conflicts between ratios in speed and ratios in Gear i think,Also i watched your video of Regen Kickback where you switched to EABS/Regen when release throttle instead of Eabs when brake valid,I ALSO switched to that option,that might hve fixed it. Also Park when Brake valid option is not working fot me somehow,Low brake wires are properly connected so it must set mode to Neutral/park when i press brakes right?

@@ethanhunt1828 you mean it’s working correctly now?

@@ethanhunt1828 you mean it’s working correctly now?

@@ethanhunt1828 you mean it’s working correctly now?

@@kevind1893 the taper at the end of the charge cycle is progressively into the charger, not the ANT. Some chargers go a. It higher than 4.200v/cell in a perfectly balanced state before throttling back. If you can read the open ended voltage of your charger(s), it should be 84.05v or so, which is enough to push the higher cells into the balance regen of a non-programmable BMS. But it should be already down to 0.1a or so. The ANT default balance limit is 4.200v, but it won’t be able to function with the OVP set default 4.200v also. You can raise unit OVP to 4.250v and leave unit balance at 4.200v and it will bleed every cell as it exceeds 4.200v. The 4.250v ovp gives it room so the charge port doesn’t close. Then it should reach a point where all cells are balance at 4.200v with some at 4.201v and bleeding. But if the charger is set too high it will want to find a higher balance point, so you can gradually increase balance limit to 4.205v, 4.210v until it reaches equilibrium. But if you don’t want any cell to go over 4.200v, set UnitDiffOffV to 0.000v and click “startAutobalance” in the BMS control tab and it will balance until 0.000v difference. Then you can top it off if you want. It’s ok if the ANT ends charge each time.

@@KevinT1 to better understand how much solder to add and where to add it, you need to understand the shunt is designed to create a very small but accurate voltage drop proportional to current flowing through it. That voltage drop is then measured by the processor, which can convert that differential to amps, then it just uses the amp limit set when the manufacturer programmed it. So the more of that shunt resistor you bypass, with solder or anything that has a lower resistance, the lower the voltage drop will be, and then when the controller measures 0.050v drop, the actual current it more than the controller thinks it is. So if you want about a 25% increase in current, you would add solder along 25% of the LENGTH of all shunt wires. If you have 2 or more shunt wires, you can squeeze them together (which has zero effect on resistance), and it will form a trough that can better hold the solder. What I do is measure the amps with a DC clamp meter before the mod, then keep adding or removing solder until I get the increase I want. Even 10-25% increase in current will change the acceleration significantly, and most OEM systems have enough safety margin to accept that. If you do radical 50% to 100% increase, you can exceed the BMS or battery cell max current, exceed the controller mosfet/bus max current and burn it, exceed the phase wire max current, or exceed the windings max continuous current by 4x. If the mod increases top speed significantly, especially going up a hill, changes are it will burn something up. The shunt mod should only give a bit more acceleration, and then offload once at top speed to allow cooldown.

@@markshaw270 , yes, they didn’t work very hard making the wrappers correctly. Lol

@@elias8981 Fardriver controllers typically support phase current that is 2x the DC current, but typically once I’m moving the phase current is limited by DC amps, and hovers around the same amps as my DC amps. Of course the DC amps and the phase amps are not directly locked in sync because the DC amps * volts is power going in filing up the capacitors and then the controller send that out at various voltage using PWM of the mosfets. All we knits for sure is that if 100a @ 72v goes in, 7200 watts will be turned into some heat and divided among the phases. I think some of the ESC and VESC controllers have a 1:1 rated DC to rated phase amps. The controller cant force more amps in a motor than the motor can accept, based on the winding resistance and impedance, and how fast the magnets move to a location that requires that phase current to go to zero or reverse direction. But my 72360 with 190a DC max and 360 Phase amps never reached 360 phase amps long enough for it to show up on the app. You can feel the difference on 0-rpm torque but not see it.

@@imho7250 Thank you for your answer. I have seen the specs of the ND72200 and the rated DC current is 45A and phase current is 200A. Would this mean that most controller could have a phase current multiplier of at least 4.4x ? I am asking about this because peak phase amps defines peak torque which result in an added marketing value and better hill climb capability. I agree that a high multiplier won't last long but still, this could allow to lift the front wheel at a drag race which is very cool on lower power builds

Its mostly English. I don’t know what the Chinese part is saying. Hopefully nothing important. Lol

In this video it was just the app, not connected. I have a video where i did connect to test a battery and the Chinese was in English. th-cam.com/video/Fx6eTLYrhng/w-d-xo.htmlsi=clrJNBXkE6DMAR-F I think working time is the total hours on the controller. But only reads correctly when connected to a controller lol

@@imho7250 know anything about hooking a display to fardriver that isn't 1 line communication?

@@tyronesharp8115 AFAIK, YXT (LIN) protocol is the only way it can send any information other than speed. And since its FOC it won’t work with even a basic phase wire speedometer, and so far I can’t get it to work with my hall sensor speedometer, but that might be not working in the $10 throttle/key/display I bought. I need to try connecting directly to the hall wire and see if it’s my display not reading it or the fardriver can’t send out a basic hall signal emulation.

@@theglitchfactory hopefully this version comes to Android soon so you can use it, lol

So I have a 36v mid drive kunray bldc I overvolted with a 50v battery pushing 100amps. How can I maximize its power by changing its pid settings? Is that's even possible.? I'm looking to get more speed.

@@tidyupauto8326 whixh controller do you have?

Apakah semua motor listrik bisa memakai apk ini

@@krikjangkrik8019, only electric bikes with Fardriver controllers and Bluetooth module can use this app.

@@poutinexl7627 i can try if you tell me the problem. Generally it’s easier if you make a screen recording of the fardriver app, go to pro settings, do a slow scroll from top to bottom, then go to the graph page and demonstrate the problem or try some max acceleration up to top speed and hold top speed for 10 seconds. Normally everything reveals itself with that video. The upload that video to your channel, not for kids, not a short, and let me know.

@@imho7250 ty so much 😁 can I contact you on a better platform than TH-cam’s comment section?

@@poutinexl7627 , i normally don’t use anything other than TH-cam except for someone Ive interacted with many times on TH-cam and we need to send many videos and photos back and forth to get the tune done or trouble the issue. 95% of the people I help is just based on them making a screenrecording of the fardriver of BMS app. Lets try that first and see where it leads.

@@imho7250 so I made a video if you go on my account it should be there, it is called Ebike problem. Ty for your help

@@imho7250 Hi I made the video if you still want to help me 😁

@@jungbae3 can you make a screenrecording of the ANT app and do a slow scroll from top to bottom of the main page, then go to Vparams and do a slow scroll top to bottom, then upload it to your channel and let me know so I can go take a look. Then I can give some recommendations.

@@imho7250hi there same here. Left my battery in garage too long. Would love your help. Where do I send you my video scroll of my specs?

@ , does your battery have an ANT bms? what happens when you plug in the charger? Does the battery connector read any voltage with a multimeter? If you can connect your phone to the BMS, you can make a screenrecording of the app and scroll through each page, then upload it to your channel and come back and let me know so I can check it out.

@ hi there. I thought I sent you a video of my ant bms. I took a small video. I will do it again

th-cam.com/users/shortsy_NCm1bMcvA?si=DMqlMpf48WdIX48d

@@wagnerbrochini3892 generally not possible on most controllers because that would require a throttle signal above 0% without turning the throttle, which will trigger the throttle error if you turn on the key. Every OEM controller will not run the motor if the throttle is held open and then the ignition is turned on. I think the only practical reason to have “creep” is for some form of “hill hold” function that keeps you from rolling backwards if you are stopped going uphill and need to release the brakes to get going but don’t want to start rolling backwards. What is the purpose you want to get “creep”? Maybe there is another way to achieve that function without actually having “creep”.

@@imho7250 thanks for the fast response as always! The main idea behind this creep function would be to emulate idling of a combustion engine (for accessory activation, like the air conditioner compressor, oil pump, steering pump and such)

@@wagnerbrochini3892 , in an EV you can’t drive the accessories off the main motor. You need and electric air conditioner compressor, electric power steering booster, and DC/DC converter instead of an alternator. If you are converting an ICE vehicle to electric and wanting all the original engine driven accessories to work, you would need to keep the clutch, either manual or the viscous coupling of the torque converter and and waste lots of power. This means the battery needs to ve bigger for the same range which cost more than just making a proper conversion. I have never heard of any controller designed to let an electric motor emulate an ICE motor, starting and then idling at 1000 rpm or so and then accelerating from there. This could be hacked by placing a switch in the throttle signal line, which you must open before turning in the ignition so the controller will not get an open throttle error, then as soon as the controller is booted up, close the switch and have the throttle setting in the controller set 0.2v-0.6v below the minimum throttle signal (typically 0.8v-0.9v for hall sensor type throttle).

@@imho7250 Yes, when you try to do things as cheap as possible, sometimes having a slightly bigger battery will be less expensive than having proper equipment to run everything, even though wastes are definitely there. Nonetheless, you gave me a great idea, I could very well do that with a relay that only activates the throttle with the actual ignition position of the fob. Can you confirm that, if there's no input on the throttle, the controller will turn on normally and work if that voltage becomes present later on?

Actually the idea is to have some form of hybrid car that can start on the electric motor alone and drive up to a certain speed in the electric mode. At some given rpm the combustion engine will take over and start recharging batteries. Some pretty rudimentary idea that I plan to develop on

@@crispysocksss the battery I was testing was 10s4p, 36v10ah. I set the fardriver voltage to 48v (the lowest setting it will accept), but I set low voltage protection to 30v (3.0v/cell in a balanced 10s pack). The main purpose was to load test this battery and see how it handles current. The controller the battery typically uses is only 16a, but I wanted to see how much of a controller upgrade the battery can support, and my test shows it can support a 25a controller, as long as the speeds are still set such thst it only needs 12a continuous,

@@E-bikeguy mine is iPhone Xs Max. My iPhone 6+ stopped running fardriver app a year ago. Maybe if you have something between those then it wont work. But if you have Android, I don’t think that version is out yet. I think it’s still version 2.5.0 for Android.

@@imho7250 oh ok I see!!! Thank you 👊🏿

Link?

@@sleptonperformance6891 its iOS. apps.apple.com/us/app/%E5%8D%97%E4%BA%AC%E8%BF%9C%E9%A9%B1/id1499769100

I think the new version is available on Android now from Fardriver: www.far-driver.com/the-controller-app-for-android/

@@enricobruzzone2367 so farI can only see it works in landscape mode for settings and display, but the display changes significantly as shown in this. You lose lose phase amps but the rpm gauge is now a speedometer (finally lol), and you can calibrate that in settings,

@@danirinaldi1044 the rpm gauge turns to speedometer (which needs calibration in settings) when in landscape mode. The motor temperature in landscape seems abnormally high but i didn’t try in portrait to see if it was just a coding error for landscape mode. With 25a max my motor should not get to 71c. And even though it’s only Cacu and not a real temperature sensor, the battery that goes in this bike can send much more current. This was my first ride with the new software and mainly to test my other 36v battery