0:00 motor teardown 0:05 40 magnets so 20 pole pairs 0.18 the tire is 14” x 2.125”, so its called a 14” motor. But the rim is 10” and the motor itself is only 6” in diameter. 0:25 these are 23H magnets which means 23mm HEIGHT. The magnet height is a major factor in the motor performance. 0:37 the iron portion of the stator is also 23mm, matching the magnets. 0:46 these KV is about 14, which lets it go about 20 mph (32 kph) on 36v without field weakening. 0:57 The winding bundles looks beefier than the phase wires so they should of if the phase wires aren’t overheating. 1:33 inverting type hall sensor board (changed 60 degrees to 120 degrees commutation) center hall sensor upside down. 2:20 you can see the center hall sensor upsidedown, and most likely bipolar. So if you replace hall sensors get the right ones. 2:28 9-pin motor connector. Low max current but makes tire change/repair easier. 2:40 MR-30 phase wires connector. Tiny but good for 30a. We shall see. Lol 2:46 the white wire which disappears somewhere along the way. This size motor is 150mm (about 6”) in diameter, so the torque arm is only 3” long. Also the ring of magnets is about 18” long. A QS205 is 205 mm (about 8”) in diameter, so the torque arm is 4”, and the ring of magnets is about 24” long A QS273 is 273mm (almost 11”) in diameter so the torque arm is 5.5” and rhe ring of magnets is about 33” long. So even if all three of the above motors had magnets only 23mm tall, you can see the total size of the magnets grows with each size, so the magnetic push and pull of all the magnets combined is greater, and also that net force is acting on a longer torque arm. So if all three motors have the same number of turns, and allowed the same phase amps from the controller, the torque grows as the motor grows. There is another very important variable called magnet height. 23H is only 23mm tall, 25H is 25mm tall, etc. common magnets sizes are 23H, 25H, 27H, 30H, 35H, 40H, 50H, 60H, 70H. As taller magnets are used, the stator WIDTH will also be the same, which means the potential coil strength is growing with the magnet strength. The bigger the motor diameter and taller the magnets, the more torque it can make for each number of turns, but it also makes more back emf for any given RPM, and eddy current losses are greater. This means pedaling with a gearless hub, when the motor is not helping, you will feel the extra drag of the eddy current. On my 6” diameter 23H motor, its not so bad with a 14” diameter tire. But if I used a 205 50H with a 14” tire, the added drag would be very tiring to pedal when the motor isn’t helping.
@1:34 This motor uses a hall sensor board, which has NO ELECTRONICS on the board, but merely uses the traces to connect the hall sensor wires to the 3 hall sensors. It allows 5 hall wires from the controller (5v, GND, H1, H2, H3) to be neatly connected to the 9 legs of the 3 hall sensors. Pros are its neat, clean less wires, very stable base for the hall sensors, and simple wiring for the 5 wires to the controller. The board is normally glued to the stator with high temp silicone so it doesn’t move and the legs of the hall sensors don’t flex. Its very fast and easy to replace all three sensors when they are on a board. The cons are they typically stick out further from the stator and requires a deeper dish side cover, which pushes everything out wider and requires a longer axle and wider dropout. If you wire the hall sensors directly using high temp silicone jacketed wire, the wires can be glue to the to the windings without as much protrusion, allowing a slightly more shallow side cover dish. You can see in this motor the hall board stick out quite a bit but it’s because the wheel width where the magnets are glued is 33mm wide, same as the motor which uses 30H magnets. And has 30mm wide stator. In this motor it’s only 23H magnets with 23mm stator, so plenty of room to let the hall board protrude. I would say it’s normally best to stick with what is there, if it has a hall board, use a new hall board, unless you want to save a few bucks. Then you can replace the one bad hall sensor on that board.
0:00 motor teardown
0:05 40 magnets so 20 pole pairs
0.18 the tire is 14” x 2.125”, so its called a 14” motor. But the rim is 10” and the motor itself is only 6” in diameter.
0:25 these are 23H magnets which means 23mm HEIGHT. The magnet height is a major factor in the motor performance.
0:37 the iron portion of the stator is also 23mm, matching the magnets.
0:46 these KV is about 14, which lets it go about 20 mph (32 kph) on 36v without field weakening.
0:57 The winding bundles looks beefier than the phase wires so they should of if the phase wires aren’t overheating.
1:33 inverting type hall sensor board (changed 60 degrees to 120 degrees commutation) center hall sensor upside down.
2:20 you can see the center hall sensor upsidedown, and most likely bipolar. So if you replace hall sensors get the right ones.
2:28 9-pin motor connector. Low max current but makes tire change/repair easier.
2:40 MR-30 phase wires connector. Tiny but good for 30a. We shall see. Lol
2:46 the white wire which disappears somewhere along the way.
This size motor is 150mm (about 6”) in diameter, so the torque arm is only 3” long. Also the ring of magnets is about 18” long.
A QS205 is 205 mm (about 8”) in diameter, so the torque arm is 4”, and the ring of magnets is about 24” long
A QS273 is 273mm (almost 11”) in diameter so the torque arm is 5.5” and rhe ring of magnets is about 33” long.
So even if all three of the above motors had magnets only 23mm tall, you can see the total size of the magnets grows with each size, so the magnetic push and pull of all the magnets combined is greater, and also that net force is acting on a longer torque arm. So if all three motors have the same number of turns, and allowed the same phase amps from the controller, the torque grows as the motor grows.
There is another very important variable called magnet height. 23H is only 23mm tall, 25H is 25mm tall, etc. common magnets sizes are 23H, 25H, 27H, 30H, 35H, 40H, 50H, 60H, 70H. As taller magnets are used, the stator WIDTH will also be the same, which means the potential coil strength is growing with the magnet strength.
The bigger the motor diameter and taller the magnets, the more torque it can make for each number of turns, but it also makes more back emf for any given RPM, and eddy current losses are greater. This means pedaling with a gearless hub, when the motor is not helping, you will feel the extra drag of the eddy current. On my 6” diameter 23H motor, its not so bad with a 14” diameter tire. But if I used a 205 50H with a 14” tire, the added drag would be very tiring to pedal when the motor isn’t helping.
@1:34 This motor uses a hall sensor board, which has NO ELECTRONICS on the board, but merely uses the traces to connect the hall sensor wires to the 3 hall sensors. It allows 5 hall wires from the controller (5v, GND, H1, H2, H3) to be neatly connected to the 9 legs of the 3 hall sensors.
Pros are its neat, clean less wires, very stable base for the hall sensors, and simple wiring for the 5 wires to the controller. The board is normally glued to the stator with high temp silicone so it doesn’t move and the legs of the hall sensors don’t flex. Its very fast and easy to replace all three sensors when they are on a board.
The cons are they typically stick out further from the stator and requires a deeper dish side cover, which pushes everything out wider and requires a longer axle and wider dropout. If you wire the hall sensors directly using high temp silicone jacketed wire, the wires can be glue to the to the windings without as much protrusion, allowing a slightly more shallow side cover dish.
You can see in this motor the hall board stick out quite a bit but it’s because the wheel width where the magnets are glued is 33mm wide, same as the motor which uses 30H magnets. And has 30mm wide stator. In this motor it’s only 23H magnets with 23mm stator, so plenty of room to let the hall board protrude.
I would say it’s normally best to stick with what is there, if it has a hall board, use a new hall board, unless you want to save a few bucks. Then you can replace the one bad hall sensor on that board.
Time for some statorade😂😂
@@MrDeceptacon88 does statoraide fertilize the phase wires so they can grow thicker? Lol